(Topic ID: 70838)

Pinbot Fans and Owners Club!


By wayout440

5 years ago



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There are 3110 posts in this topic. You are on page 44 of 63.
#2151 11 months ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

Lastly the cabinet on this one has been damaged by someone who thought the legs should be screwed on as tight as possible.

Man, your cabinet is in great shape. Bright colors, nor much scratches. Leg damage is typical and nothing to call home about.

#2152 11 months ago

Would be good to see the chest area.

#2153 11 months ago

PBR doesn't have the drop targets. Any other ideas?

#2154 11 months ago
Quoted from Strummy:

PBR doesn't have the drop targets. Any other ideas?

what game are they for???

#2155 11 months ago
Quoted from Strummy:

PBR doesn't have the drop targets. Any other ideas?

How many do you need?
There is one on eBay.

ebay.com link » Williams Pinball Used Play Field Drop Target Match Your Other Targets

And a used assembly.

ebay.com link » Williams 3 Bank Drop Target Assy Shipping Available

#2156 11 months ago

What size head bolts fit it in the backbox? I had a few wing nut top bolts, but they aren’t long enough. Thanks in advance!

#2157 11 months ago
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:

What size head bolts fit it in the backbox? I had a few wing nut top bolts, but they aren’t long enough. Thanks in advance!

Older system 11 game uses 3\8 x 2 3/4 long NC thread.

#2158 11 months ago
Quoted from wizard_mode:

what game are they for???

Pinbot. #03-7478

Quoted from Impzilla:

How many do you need?
There is one on eBay.
ebay.com link » Williams Pinball Used Play Field Drop Target Match Your Other Targets
And a used assembly.
ebay.com link » Williams 3 Bank Drop Target Assy Shipping Available

Thanks. There are old ones on the game. I was looking to put new ones on if possible

#2159 11 months ago
Quoted from Strummy:

Pinbot. #03-7478

Thanks. There are old ones on the game. I was looking to put new ones on if possible

Yikes, did not realize these are unobtanium!

#2160 11 months ago

So that part number pops up on marco as l shaped bottom. Will those not work in pinbot?

#2161 11 months ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Older system 11 game uses 3\8 x 2 3/4 long NC thread.

Thanks!

#2162 11 months ago
Quoted from wizard_mode:

So that part number pops up on marco as l shaped bottom. Will those not work in pinbot?

Yep. Mine are T shaped. Those won't work . These are them

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-7478

#2163 11 months ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

How hard is it to repaint that chest area? I’ve seen a lot of pictures where people have it masked off, but I really don’t know what else is involved.
I’ll be doing some more research on playfield restoration.

I always encourage people to read the Vid's Guide to Ultimate Playfield Restoration - everything I know I learned from just following his instructions to the letter. Repainting that area would mostly be *tedious*, because there are so many interrupted, small spaces - I will need to repaint some of the dark grey in between the inserts, and it's just gonna involve a ton of careful frisket trimming. Once you've cut out the masking, the airbrushing takes only a minute. (Frisket is a mildly adhesive backed plastic masking film which lays flat and cuts super clean - Vid's guide gets deep into the specifics.)

One thing I found works well and saves time - Molotow brand paint pens (this is in the Vid's guide as well, but contributed from someone else). They're a highly opaque paint base, and they're great for touching up cracking in the keylining around inserts which otherwise haven't moved.

Personally, I had never really sought out restoration, was happy with "player's" condition games, but somebody gave me a project pin last year and I discovered I had the knack for doing that work. I find playfield restoration pretty deeply satisfying; best part is, once you're done, you'll have a game that plays better than new.

#2164 11 months ago

First playfield swap and cabinet restoraration starting one of these days........when I get the balls to do it. Any suggestions on where to begin? Or anything else for that matter

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#2165 11 months ago

3/8" 16 (or course thread) 3.5" hex bolts. 2.5" was not long enough for me.

#2166 11 months ago
Quoted from Strummy:

First playfield swap and cabinet restoraration starting one of these days........when I get the balls to do it. Any suggestions on where to begin? Or anything else for that matter

This guy did a pretty thorough run through about his experience. Some would debate his decision to install Molex connectors on his solenoids, though I think it's probably a real good idea. In any case, lots of smart pointers, and gets into some pretty fine detail, particularly helpful if you're not the sort of person who is used to doing fussy work involving tools. I recommend reading the whole thing before you get started, will save a lot of time and frustration!

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/playfield-swap-guide

#2167 11 months ago

^^^Great. Thank you!

#2168 11 months ago
Quoted from Plumonium:

Man, your cabinet is in great shape. Bright colors, nor much scratches. Leg damage is typical and nothing to call home about.

Yeah, I was impressed. Lots of stuff is nice on it. I paid $2k which I felt was very fair for the condition of most of the things.

Here are some other pictures (sorry they are not great because I had to move quick and snap them through the glass).

I would say the most major issue is the bubbling in the Mylar and the inserts which are lifting up. That stuff will impact the ball pretty good. I’ll come back with close ups.

Thanks everyone for the great info!

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#2169 11 months ago

All displays are blinking rapidly all of the time. Any ideas? I reseated all connectors

#2170 11 months ago

Take a look at this, sounds similar and might help.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/pinbot-display-issue

#2171 11 months ago

All of my displays are blinking rapidly. I did put 3 leds in the bumpers and this is when this began. I have since changed back to incandescent. While putting in the leds i realized that the bumper sockets had bad connections so I pulled rhe bottom part up for a better connection, with the game off of course. I checked and it did appear that no metal was connecting to other areas. I cold be wrong though.

#2172 11 months ago

Sounds identical to my problem. Thanks

#2173 11 months ago

Got you covered. Great Plains sells a kit

https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/products.asp?cat=45

I believe Part Number W711A-PEC-KIT is what you would want. Please correct me if I’m wrong on this.

#2174 11 months ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

I would say the most major issue is the bubbling in the Mylar and the inserts which are lifting up. That stuff will impact the ball pretty good. I’ll come back with close ups.

I'm gonna be interested to see what you do about the mylar bubbling. My playfield is generally good,.. but has some minor bubbling that is actually just annoying to see, but I'd like to sort out. Just spend 40 minutes adjusting the play angle to get things "just" right,.. so those evil SDTM drains without touching the ball don't happen so much.

#2175 11 months ago
Quoted from mrWol64:

I'm gonna be interested to see what you do about the mylar bubbling. My playfield is generally good,.. but has some minor bubbling that is actually just annoying to see, but I'd like to sort out. Just spend 40 minutes adjusting the play angle to get things "just" right,.. so those evil SDTM drains without touching the ball don't happen so much.

I’m scared to do it, but I think I just have to lift that mylar and attempt to clean and restore the playfield. I’ve read vid1900’s guide at least 4 times, but that doesn’t change my fear of the unknown. I know the second I see some paint come off, I’m going to have a mild heart attack.

With the lifted inserts, and bubbles, I think I just need to be brave. Either that, or kidnap vid1900 when he travels across the country again :/.

Here are some pictures of the playfield without the glass. As you can see, I’ve got a broken plastic (which was wonderfully repaired with packing tape). What looks like two layers of mylar near the slingshots, and some missing paint near the robot face. Also there are gouges in the wood near the ball locks.

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#2176 11 months ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

As you can see, I’ve got a broken plastic

Snap,.. this is my 2nd Pinbot(bottom pic).. that plastic takes a hammering as it is main the target area to advance the planets. Bit faint but there is a 2inch crack in the plastic, under the nut.
The other pic is my 1st Pinbot,.. that has a really tired playfield (see yellowed Mylar)... same spot, broken... it is my “training wheels” pin... learnt heaps from it!!

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#2177 11 months ago

My first Pinbot came with an interesting substitution for the face mask... the original must have been smashed up pretty good.

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#2178 11 months ago
Quoted from mrWol64:

My first Pinbot came with an interesting substitution for the face mask... the original must have been smashed up pretty good.

Woah! At least there is one eye hole! LMAO!!!

#2179 11 months ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

I’m scared to do it, but I think I just have to lift that mylar and attempt to clean and restore the playfield. I’ve read vid1900’s guide at least 4 times, but that doesn’t change my fear of the unknown. I know the second I see some paint come off, I’m going to have a mild heart attack.

I just pulled my mylar recently and the only thing that got damaged was "the sun" graphics.
Found a decal online and installed a playfield protector.

https://www.playfield-protectors.com/22/Playfield-Protectors

My only advice is to use a cold spray not canned air.

amazon.com link »

And be prepared for many, many nights of adhesive removal.

#2180 11 months ago
Quoted from mrWol64:

My first Pinbot came with an interesting substitution for the face mask... the original must have been smashed up pretty good.

Ha! Why not just toss some construction paper on top and make it look awesome .

#2181 11 months ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

I would say the most major issue is the bubbling in the Mylar and the inserts which are lifting up.

Again, your game is in very good shape.

I documented my restoration and talked a bit about mylar removal process. Starting here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/pinbot-restoration-underway/page/2#post-3507038

#2182 11 months ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

I’m scared to do it, but I think I just have to lift that mylar and attempt to clean and restore the playfield. I’ve read vid1900’s guide at least 4 times, but that doesn’t change my fear of the unknown. I know the second I see some paint come off, I’m going to have a mild heart attack.
With the lifted inserts, and bubbles, I think I just need to be brave. Either that, or kidnap vid1900 when he travels across the country again :/.
Here are some pictures of the playfield without the glass. As you can see, I’ve got a broken plastic (which was wonderfully repaired with packing tape). What looks like two layers of mylar near the slingshots, and some missing paint near the robot face. Also there are gouges in the wood near the ball locks.

Freeze spray, and lots of it, will be your best friend. Yes, some paint will lift, so just brace yourself for it. You've got touch-up work to do, anyway.

If you'd ever seen a PinBot that has been routed and did not have mylar, you'd change your mind on the whole subject. I've seen one and it wasn't pretty. You could probably peel all that mylar without the benefit of freeze spray and still have more paint left than a PinBot that was routed with no mylar ever!

On my old playfield the lift on the tips of the bonus inserts was maddening. You could have a ball headed straight for the flippers and the tip of the insert would send it to the drain. That's enough to make anybody attack their playfield for repairs. In my case I lucked out and had an NOS playfield to swap.

Richard

#2183 11 months ago
Quoted from wizard_mode:

Woah! At least there is one eye hole! LMAO!!!

Yarrrr! Pirate Pinbot!

#2184 11 months ago

Anybody have a rubber ring chart playfield diagram?

#2185 11 months ago

Nevermind... found one.

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#2186 11 months ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

I’m scared to do it, but I think I just have to lift that mylar and attempt to clean and restore the playfield.

You can do it. Plenty of freeze, and plastic razor blades. Freeze, wait and work the plastic razor blade underneath the mylar. When you freeze it enough it almost pops off on its own. Be patient and let it work for a bit, and never PULL. Sometimes it's hard to get a piece started but if you just work around until you find the weak edge that helps. I got all the mylar off my Pinbot with no paint loss.

I found a spray called Orange 909 turns the glue into jelly and works great. amazon.com link » Good luck...

#2187 11 months ago
Quoted from Plumonium:

Again, your game is in very good shape.
I documented my restoration and talked a bit about mylar removal process. Starting here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/pinbot-restoration-underway/page/2#post-3507038

I completely agree! I feel lucky to have found it.

#2188 11 months ago
Quoted from Leeb18509:

You can do it. Plenty of freeze, and plastic razor blades. Freeze, wait and work the plastic razor blade underneath the mylar. When you freeze it enough it almost pops off on its own. Be patient and let it work for a bit, and never PULL. Sometimes it's hard to get a piece started but if you just work around until you find the weak edge that helps. I got all the mylar off my Pinbot with no paint loss. I found a spray called Orange 909 turns the glue into jelly and works great. amazon.com link »

Nice! You think this is better than the vid method of flour and alcohol?

#2189 11 months ago

Never tried the flour and alcohol. Sounds like a big doughy mess to me. The spray stays where you spray it, wait a few minutes (not a lot) and scrape it off with a plastic razor blade. Turns the glue into jelly.

#2190 11 months ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

Nice! You think this is better than the vid method of flour and alcohol?

You'll still need to use flour and alcohol to remove the glue after you froze and pulled off the mylar. It's a 2 steps process.

#2191 11 months ago
Quoted from Plumonium:

You'll still need to use flour and alcohol to remove the glue after you froze and pulled off the mylar. It's a 2 steps process.

I believe he was referring to the orange 909 as opposed to the flour and alcohol. I had to read it twice lol

I always use flour and goo gone. Honestly I think every playfield is a little different. My pinbot glue came off in less than an hour. High speed?? Took me three days to get it all off. Same method

#2192 11 months ago

Yes, the 909 will get the glue off after the mylar is gone but works about 10x faster than Goo Gone. There's more than one way to skin a Playfield...errr cat.

#2193 11 months ago

My High Speed was the worst too.
Other system 11 have not been so bad.

#2194 11 months ago

I also did a HS. The mylar came off nicely but yeah, the glue seemed like it was a different formula or something.

#2195 11 months ago

Just pulled mylar off an old PinBot playfield (some minor paint loss, just enough to be a PITA to retouch); the adhesive came up off the *playfield* readily with flour and alcohol, but the inserts...dear god, the inserts...

#2196 11 months ago
Quoted from sethbenjamin:

but the inserts...dear god, the inserts...

The inserts have baked on glue that's hard as a rock right? That and some are all scuffed to shit.

#2197 11 months ago

Seven games in playing 5 ball Pinbot, balls draining faster than a bath, tension and gnashed teeth, can’t crack 700,000,... Pinbot is laughing at me. Game 8 and it all comes together,.. left Ramp over and over, 3 multiballs, and ALL the planets,.. I Rule the Universe,.. several extra balls, and a special,..Final drain at 3.7 million,..without the inflated score by hitting the solar value.

Not my highest score,.. but given how frustrating this game can be for mediocre players like me,... when you do get a good game, Pinbot pays back big time . Pity I forgot to get a picture.

#2198 11 months ago

Go ahead and set it for 3 balls like a typical location game would have been. You'll really have to step up your game.

Richard

#2199 11 months ago

"The inserts have baked on glue that's hard as a rock right? That and some are all scuffed to shit."

Inserts only have glue from underneath, but your comment made me think of something: when playfields are manufactured, the inserts are glued in, then the whole thing is sanded flush in a drum sander, THEN the paint goes screen printed on, then whatever topcoat. That scuffing is normal, as what you're seeing is the sanding marks from before the printing. I'm thinking maybe the adhesive sticks more tenaciously to the inserts because it's hitting that rough surface which has more tooth. It could be that the adhesive just sticks better to plastic, but whatever he case, I found the process of cleaning that crap off the inserts endless, and hard to do without affecting the keylining/surrounding artwork. The rest of the process is a breeze.

#2200 11 months ago
Quoted from sethbenjamin:

"The inserts have baked on glue that's hard as a rock right? That and some are all scuffed to shit."

That was the case with my BOP pf when I pulled the mylar, that and the inserts were clearly scuffed on the tops of the inserts from ball travel.

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