I don't have a scope are the amps hard to come by?

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=4&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwjz7Z7Xr6HWAhUF3IMKHXA9AfAQFgg_MAM&url=http%3A%2F%2Fphysics.gac.edu%2F~huber%2Fclasses%2Fphy270%2FSpecSheets%2FLM1458.pdf&usg=AFQjCNGCURMy3eewIG1X9qZWyXCtrrmXGA

Common and cheap.
ebay.com link: 10PCS LM1458 LM1458N IC OP AMP DUAL 8 DIP NEW

I'm not suggesting that you just replace them with out some testing first. The shotgun approach is not recommended.

I understand that. I know shot gunning parts can be costly and lead to other issues. I was just curious if it were a part that would be worth just replacing anyway. I am proficient at board work and they are 10 cents a piece. I need to just buy a scope as many machines as I work on. So do you have a recommendation on an affordable oscilloscope

Here is the red/blue display set. If you order the white, it comes with gels to get any color...
https://xpinpinball.com/product/xp-wms10877/

I have found a lot of great testing equipment second hand from schools selling off there stuff. I bought a second Oscope for 35.00 and a adjustable duel output power supply for 10.00.

I would shotgun the amps. Why not? I shotgun parts all the time and it usually works. I know some are against it, just let them do it their way and you do it yours. Lol. There is not only one way to troubleshoot boards.
That said, here is a good, cheap o-scope:
http://a.co/7rr5w6c

What ROM images are you using? If you have the latest version off the IPDB or just about any site then you will have missing sound or speech since one of the ROM images is corrupt. The separate image to fix that bad chip is on the IPDB site. I have an old thread that talked about the issue.

It is running Prototype 4 ROMS. I ordered a set of sound and speech just in case.

Hey all,

Recently acquired a Pinbot (my first machine ever). Have worked out most of the issues I've had so far (grounding, LEDs, etc). The last thing bothering me before I can play it properly is an issue with the chest panel.

Current behavior is if I press each of the individual 10 switches with my hand, it activates properly and the lights I expect to will light up. During gameplay, if I smash the top 5 switches with the pinball however, multiple columns seem to activate. Am I right in thinking that this indicates that the top switches need adjusting to be wider?

I would have just opened up the switches to test, but they seem very hard to get to. Do I have to remove the entire motor assembly to get to those? Even then, it seems like it'd be tough. Most others I've had to adjust so far I could finagle my adjustment tool in there somehow. What is the easiest way to get to those switches for adjustment?

Thanks for any help

Multiple columns how? Adjacent columns or columns separated by one or more columns? The ball is big enough to hit two columns at a time if the hit is not dead center on a target.

Had a similar issue with my game when I first got it.

The previous owner had replace some of the targets and did a poor job.

The targets are wired in a daisy chain fashion and some wires had broken loose. During gameplay, probably to compensate the non working targets, hitting some targets would light a bunch of other columns, filling the chest grid anyway. Sounds like a failsafe built into the game so it's playable when if a target is not registering.

Take off your target bank assembly off (sorry) and look at the daisy chain. See what you find.

It is a situation where if i slam it into the left two columns, the light on the rightmost one will light up.

Could be the gap on your switch is too tight. I gap all my switch so they are on a hair trigger then play for a few days. Its common to get a sling that auto fires on occasion, I usually will give it a little time to see if it will settle down on its own before I adjust the switch to make it less sensitive. Also I will take the ball out and mash the flippers or hit switches by hand and watch the score. You can usually spot if another switch is firing from the vibration. I'm sure the technical guys know the actual measure you should gap a switch but that's how I do it.

Joined the club today.

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Congrats!

I have always had my PinBot set as 3 ball but recently someone told me that BITD it was always a 5 ball game and I am incorrect to have mine as 3 ball. I have clocked mine at 3 balls with the solar value reset rom installed so there is no way I will be changing to 5 balls, if I did I would sometimes get 3 extra balls making an 8 ball game, way too long for this era IMO.

I said it was whatever balls the operator at the time wanted, but does anyone know what it was set as from the factory?

The instruction cards in the photos in the flyer show it set to 3-ball, not that that makes it official or anything. Pinbot was made in 1986 and 3-ball was pretty standard even around 1980.

I agree with this. Even without extra balls, pinbot can be a long game once you're used to it. I wouldn't want to play that many balls and would rather keep it at a more challenging 3. Would 5 (let alonealso roll over the score board too often?

Factory default is 3 ball, I have mine set to factory default other then free play.

Thanks for the reply (and also to the others) but can you please explain how you know the factory default is 3 ball? I have searched online and can't find any evidence of a default number of balls being mentioned. I don't doubt that you are correct, but it would be nice to have more info to pass on to my friend other than Henry on pinside said it was 3

Isn't there a "restore factory settings" option at the end of the options menu? If not just pull the batteries out and it will reset to factory settings. I don't think I've had a game that was set to 5 ball from the factory.

^^^ exactly^^^ restore to factory settings is the options menu. Number of balls is also in the options menu, number of credits per game, amount of time it takes drop targets to reset, there are a lot of different setting to explore! You can also put a custom message on your displays!

Awesome thanks that settles it

Do you guys have this wire connecting both GI strings together?

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Not on mine.

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That might be the source of my GI short.

I swear I did not mess with this wire during my restoration and it was working fine before...

Who else can confirm?

@grumpy. See that post above?

No you did not do this, an operator did this as a hack and it has been done many times before. I'm sure it worked fine before, but you need to have both fuses in at the same time. If one fuse blows they both blow. You may have done something that is causing your problem now like a small nut or washer in a lamp socket and them inserted a bulb on top of it causing a short. For now remove the wire as it doesn't belong and troubleshoot from there.

Did you notice that it isn't zip tied to the harness. The operator was in a hurry to go home.

Removed the wire, found the problem was not on the left side. Un-did all 3 hot wires from right side. Solder them back on one by one and testing amp each time. Found nothing. That wire was the culprit. Go figure... All good we have light.

And Plumonium said "Let there be light!" And there was light!

Hehe. Now, let there be rock!

Can someone confirm the look and wiring on the snubber board at the bottom right of there cabinet. Not the very last (which is GI relay) but the other one on top of it.

Mine look like this. C-11232

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Probably a long shot but can anyone help with a replacement for the big upper left plastic? Mine is busted in about 4 places. Would like a nice used one or a repro. Thanks!

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Ok everyone, I just picked up a pinbot that came with a new playfield in a box so major score there. Also has new reproduction manual.. xpin display and rotten dog board installed, and have the original board. Cabinet is in pretty good shape as well as back glass. I paid $1,500. Fair deal?

Now for the sadly expected.. broken plastics.

I will update with better pics later as I'm on the way home with the game now. I have been searching, emailing, scouring.. and reading here for 2 days. If I missed something please don't hang me for it.. I'm doing my best.

Anyone have a line on a majority of the plastics or a whole set for sale or can source some?

Secondly.. I'm looking for the artwork in vector format.. any help? I'm prepared to take on the reproduction part if I have to, could prove useful with others in the future.

Thanks guys!

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Nice catch. Is this a NOS? Does not look like a CPR.

At 1500$ it's a steal imho. Good luck with your swap.

Thanks! Honestly, I'm trying to identify it myself. He wasn't sure so I think maybe he got it when he bought it. He threw in a plastic protector set and a crap ton of led's and odds and end in plastic cliffy protectors too.

I just heard back from one guy that he might have a plastic set stashed but won't be able to dig for it until next week. Inventory is being shipped for an expo but my name is on it if he finds it. Until then the search continues.

I am thinking of getting a CPR back glass.. $249.. but plastics come first, my glass is in good shape. Here is a pic I just took of the playfield.

Thanks for your input!

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Looks like a CPR bronze. Some of the bronzes were really bad, specifically the sun insert. I bought one (quite inexpensively with a set of plastics) where the sun was actually partially melted. I had to swap the sun insert out of my original playfield, touch up the keyline and clearcoat with 2pac. Note- if this is your situation, the original sun insert is slightly larger than the old one. You will have to either CAREFULLY enlarge the hole in your new playfield or CAREFULLY reduce the circumference of the insert. Still - you got a total deal. Congratulations.

You might want to contact Pinsider Outsidedge for plastics, he's reproducing plastics for Jackbot so doing a set for Pinbot might be on his radar.

Ok, nice to hear I can do something about it. I worked in a body shop for a few years so I should be able to handle the clear coat. The sun does seem to have had some reaction or delaminating. Other than that, i can only find 1 spot with lint. Everything else looks great. Should I wet-sand it and see what happens with the sun? Either way I need to fix it and re-clear yeah?

Here's a few pics.

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Nice! I will look him up.. that is great news. Thank you.

Hell yes! I plain to play it until the paint comes off. Lol.

If you decide to try to fix it be sure to get a good scan of the lettering graphics on the insert as you will need to replace it if you sand into it, which is quite likely. Swapping a pinbot playfield is a lot of work. If I were in your shoes, I would just have fun playing the machine as is for a good long while. If you decide to swap in the new playfield take care of the funky sun before you swap.

Looking more closely at your pictures I would guess that insert is not salvageable. Probably better to swap in your old one if it's in better shape when the time comes.

At $1500 that is a major score. I'm not even going to admit what I paid and my playfield is not good. Where you live is a big factor in price and sadly North American prices seem to go up the further west and north you go.

Yeah - I paid $1k even for mine in similar condition(less wear but a little chest planking; no playfield, xpin, or Rottendog - but original and working with partial LED). I'd love to get the CPR Backglass and new playfield because an original Pinbot was always my dream pin growing up... Baby steps I guess, I have others that need attention first. Pinbot is more than playable.

Personally I think that sun insert looks kinda cool like that. Sunspots!

Me too. Mine was so bad though that it really affected ball travel so it had to go. (The cloudy spots were actually wavy melted plastic in places on mine.)

That plastic came with CPR plastic set. What is it for?

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