In on a roll finishing up my pinbot. going to add the red and blue led flipper buttons. I've put many sets on pins. I've seen a few on this thread. Did you buy a kit or make them yourselves? Thx!
Quoted from dudah:I use a laser cutter at my library's Makerlab for free. Way easier and cleaner.
I'll have to see if I have access to that, sounds great! Thanks for the tip.
Quoted from billsfanmd:Just added x pin Amber display. Looks is awesome. Fast shipping. Great tech support when I had an Intall question. Brett even called to double check it was 100 perfect.
Uhm - be carefull when going to XPin's website...! Their site is www.xpinpinball.com.
Good thing my kid was not around!
Well in case anyone ever replaces their MPU 11A or 11B board with a Rottendog and has the same sound problem as me, here's the fix. Problem was that the digitized voice speech and explosion effects were super duper loud while the music soundtrack was weak. If I turned up the music to normal level, speech was so loud it would almost blow the speakers. Crazy! Rottendog had no advise and I've had other people complain about this. Solution: I turned down the 100k ohm pot on the speech board to the minimum - it only helped a little. I replaced with 100k ohm potentiometer on the speech board with a 250k ohm one. It helped - but not enough. Still too loud. So I had to upgrade to a 500k ohm potentiometer. That did the trick. The speech and explosions are now roughly the same volume as the music. But, I had to turn the pot all the way to maximum resistance (lowest volume) of 500k ohms. So whatever is going wrong with the Rottendog sound, it takes at least 500k ohms to balance it out. I don't know if anybody else has dealt with this but that's my solution. The Pot, form Mouser Electronics, is rather large, but solders in with it's two pins to the board without difficulty. This fix also eliminates most of the background "buzz" sound coming from the Rottendog board. Wish Rottendog would provide a fix for this. I tried this board on Swords of Fury, Sys 11B, and it had the exact same problem.
Quoted from calico1997:Well in case anyone ever replaces their MPU 11A or 11B board with a Rottendog and has the same sound problem as me, here's the fix. Problem was that the digitized voice speech and explosion effects were super duper loud while the music soundtrack was weak. If I turned up the music to normal level, speech was so loud it would almost blow the speakers. Crazy! Rottendog had no advise and I've had other people complain about this. Solution: I turned down the 100k ohm pot on the speech board to the minimum - it only helped a little. I replaced with 100k ohm potentiometer on the speech board with a 250k ohm one. It helped - but not enough. Still too loud. So I had to upgrade to a 500k ohm potentiometer. That did the trick. The speech and explosions are now roughly the same volume as the music. But, I had to turn the pot all the way to maximum resistance (lowest volume) of 500k ohms. So whatever is going wrong with the Rottendog sound, it takes at least 500k ohms to balance it out. I don't know if anybody else has dealt with this but that's my solution. The Pot, form Mouser Electronics, is rather large, but solders in with it's two pins to the board without difficulty. This fix also eliminates most of the background "buzz" sound coming from the Rottendog board. Wish Rottendog would provide a fix for this. I tried this board on Swords of Fury, Sys 11B, and it had the exact same problem.
Good info. Thx!
Hello all. I'm looking for the speaker board mounting brackets and the trim that the translite fits into.
also, if anyone has a functional 549 flipper power supply I would be interested in that. Thanks
Quoted from BeatBachs:I've been looking for a replacement visor plastic for a while now, and about to give up and try and make my own but finding a decent scan of the artwork is proving equally as difficult...anyone have any leads?
I have a new set of plastic waiting for me once I get there in my restoration. I can scan it for you this week. Sounds good?
Quoted from Plumonium:I have a new set of plastic waiting for me once I get there in my restoration. I can scan it for you this week. Sounds good?
I need this and will re-make it. Please send those scans on over!
Quoted from Plumonium:I have a new set of plastic waiting for me once I get there in my restoration. I can scan it for you this week. Sounds good?
That would absolutely rule!!@ I've got another one that's cracked, and I should probably go ahead and make another one of it as well. When you get to scanning please let me know...
Quoted from Plumonium:I might as well scan a few of the most sought after ones for archives.
I think you'd be a thread hero. I feel let I've been waiting for a repro set for ages.
Quoted from Rasavage:I think you'd be a thread hero. I feel let I've been waiting for a repro set for ages.
CPR did at least one run (maybe two runs?) as recently as a couple of years ago. They seem to work on a threshold of demand. Maybe everyone who wants a full plastic set should email them to encourage another rerun. I bought a set along with a playfield and mini playfield the last time they ran them. CPR can sometimes be a bit hit or miss in terms of color and overall quality but the pinbot plastics were spot on perfect.
Quoted from Rasavage:I think you'd be a thread hero. I feel let I've been waiting for a repro set for ages.
I got mine about a year ago. Drop a line at Kevin@CPR see if he has a few left hidden somewhere. You might get lucky.
In the meatime, for the craftsman out there:
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/zh4ueu40n2qjf7q/AAD5yxWAQEnoFGZMGRyX_BOpa?dl=0
These are OK scans at best but as reference or archive they will probably work.
(sorry I did not remove the protective film on them yet, thus the blurry edges)
Does anyone know who carries the plastic .25 coin mechs and the black plastic bracket used to hold them in place on the Pinbot coin door? It looks like the assembly is made by Wico. I have a couple spare metal coin mechs but I don't know if they will work. If they would then I just need the plastic brackets that hold them on. They have been missing since I got the machine (over 18 years) and I'd really like to complete it.
I have a request, does anyone have a picture they can post of the ball gate at the end of the shooter lane? Mine has never lined up right, and I can't find a clear shot of one on the web. Thanks in advance!
Quoted from TnJHead:I have a request, does anyone have a picture they can post of the ball gate at the end of the shooter lane? Mine has never lined up right, and I can't find a clear shot of one on the web. Thanks in advance!
Quoted from Plumonium:I got mine about a year ago. Drop a line at Kevin@CPR see if he has a few left hidden somewhere. You might get lucky.
I purchased a set from Starship Fantasy back in April, they may still have another.
http://www.starship-fantasy.com/plastics
I'd also be interested in selling pieces if anyone is interested.
Added over 7 years ago: "I'd also be interested in selling pieces" - to clarify - pieces of the original set. I can post pics, let me know.
I bought from here. Even including shipping from Canada it was a better deal than anywhere else because of the exchange rate:
http://www.absolutepinball.com/Products/Product/105/PINBOT__Plastic_Set.html
Feel free to donate to pinside on my behalf for a "finder's fee."
Quoted from Plumonium:I got mine about a year ago. Drop a line at Kevin@CPR see if he has a few left hidden somewhere. You might get lucky.
In the meatime, for the craftsman out there:
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/zh4ueu40n2qjf7q/AAD5yxWAQEnoFGZMGRyX_BOpa?dl=0
These are OK scans at best but as reference or archive they will probably work.
(sorry I did not remove the protective film on them yet, thus the blurry edges)
Oh this will work great! I've already started to do some touchups in photoshop and if I'm feeling extra bored I might even transfer over and do a pass draw with Illustrator...however, I'm thinking that the photoshop job when I'm done will suffice for a pretty solid temporary replacement. Especially since something is better than nothing at all under the visor!
Quoted from BeatBachs:Oh this will work great! I've already started to do some touchups in photoshop and if I'm feeling extra bored I might even transfer over and do a pass draw with Illustrator...however, I'm thinking that the photoshop job when I'm done will suffice for a pretty solid temporary replacement. Especially since something is better than nothing at all under the visor!
Redoing it in illustrator would be a waste of time unless you have some unusual need to scale it up or down. A high res scan 1 of an undamaged plastic like this really only needs color adjustment prior to printing.
Quoted from Plumonium:I'm glad it's turning out ok. Keep us posted, dudah was going to do the same.
Quoted from pinheadpierre:Redoing it in illustrator would be a waste of time unless you have some unusual need to scale it up or down. A high res scan 1 of an undamaged plastic like this really only needs color adjustment prior to printing.
I usually trace them in Illustrator, but Pierre brings up a good point. Certainly will try to just print it out and see how good it looks. From where the plastic sits the difference between an image and a vector one will likely be negligible.
Quoted from dudah:I usually trace them in Illustrator, but Pierre brings up a good point. Certainly will try to just print it out and see how good it looks. From where the plastic sits the difference between an image and a vector one will likely be negligible.
As long as the lines are sharp and color bright
Quoted from Plumonium:As long as the lines are sharp and color bright
Thinking about it more, it's possible that the lines might be blurry and need to be traced since the protective film was still on them when they were scanned. Certainly the colors (including black and white) would be adversely affected by the film. I would wait until Plumonium is ready to install his plastics. Maybe he will rescan them for you without the protective film at that point? Then the job becomes really easy.
Quoted from pinheadpierre:Thinking about it more, it's possible that the lines might be blurry and need to be traced since the protective film was still on them when they were scanned. Certainly the colors (including black and white) would be adversely affected by the film. I would wait until Plumonium is ready to install his plastics. Maybe he will rescan them for you without the protective film at that point? Then the job becomes really easy.
I feel the pressure here I'll just go ahead and remove the film and scan it again. I should be able to wrap it back up for protection. Stay tuned...
Quoted from Gogojohnnyquack:I purchased a set from Starship Fantasy back in April, they may still have another.
http://www.starship-fantasy.com/plastics
I'd also be interested in selling pieces if anyone is interested.
Added today: "I'd also be interested in selling pieces" - to clarify - pieces of the original set. I can post pics, let me know.
Thanks, just ordered this as I have a few to replace and have been looking everywhere the last month for any supplier with these still in stock!
Quoted from pinheadpierre:Thinking about it more, it's possible that the lines might be blurry and need to be traced since the protective film was still on them when they were scanned. Certainly the colors (including black and white) would be adversely affected by the film. I would wait until Plumonium is ready to install his plastics. Maybe he will rescan them for you without the protective film at that point? Then the job becomes really easy.
Here, as good as it gets with my 15 years old scanner:
A photoshop savvy should be able to clean it up.
Anybody have any cool instruction cards to share?
I have the factory ones in there to give it that "vintage" feel, but really I'm a sucker for these cool modern ones.
Quoted from dudah:Anybody have any cool instruction cards to share?
I have the factory ones in there to give it that "vintage" feel, but really I'm a sucker for these cool modern ones.
I use these
Quoted from BeatBachs:I've been looking for a replacement visor plastic for a while now, and about to give up and try and make my own but finding a decent scan of the artwork is proving equally as difficult...anyone have any leads?
Currently on Ebay.
Quoted from calico1997:Currently on Ebay.
Buy a set, sell each as a piece, profit...
Buy yourself a set, take what you need and sell the other at $10-15 a piece to fellow Pinsiders would be a better strategy imho. You'll cover your cost, help out others and have a few spare by the end of it.
Quoted from Robotworkshop:Does anyone know who carries the plastic .25 coin mechs and the black plastic bracket used to hold them in place on the Pinbot coin door? It looks like the assembly is made by Wico. I have a couple spare metal coin mechs but I don't know if they will work. If they would then I just need the plastic brackets that hold them on. They have been missing since I got the machine (over 18 years) and I'd really like to complete it.
Here is a picture I found in another thread that shows the brackets and the plastic coin mechs. I'm not sure if you can use the metal mechs instead. Anyone have a part # or source for the brackets?
I looked through the parts at the link but so far I can't seem to find a correct match for the wico brackets on the pinbot door. I'd be fine with good used brackets and coin mechs if someone is parting out a pinbot machine.
Quoted from Kraiklyn:Thanks, just ordered this as I have a few to replace and have been looking everywhere the last month for any supplier with these still in stock!
Damn! Just hasd an email to say they have had 10 orders and only had 8 kits. Does anyone know anywhere else I could try? Thanks, from NZ!
Quoted from Kraiklyn:Thanks, just ordered this as I have a few to replace and have been looking everywhere the last month for any supplier with these still in stock!
You're welcome! Glad you could find a set!
Quoted from Kraiklyn:Damn! Just hasd an email to say they have had 10 orders and only had 8 kits. Does anyone know anywhere else I could try? Thanks, from NZ!
Crappers! I guess instead of "You're welcome!" I should say, "Good luck!". Sorry to hear that you missed out. Keep an eye out, I'm sure they are out there.
Quoted from Gogojohnnyquack:Crappers! I guess instead of "You're welcome!" I should say, "Good luck!". Sorry to hear that you missed out. Keep an eye out, I'm sure they are out there.
No worries, appreciate the lead!
Quoted from Kraiklyn:Damn! Just hasd an email to say they have had 10 orders and only had 8 kits. Does anyone know anywhere else I could try? Thanks, from NZ!
You and I must have been #'s 9 & 10. I got the same message.
Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!
This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/pinbot-fans-and-owners-club/page/33?hl=tnjhead and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.
Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.