Thoughts on mirror blades?

I think about them all the time, and wish I could find the material without having to go to some pinball specific vendor where it is marked up 1000 percent.

There used to be some good options on Amazon, but the long stock they used to carry doesn't seem to be available anymore. I'd love do have another lead on where to get it.

I need some help. I have a pinbot pinball machine and love it. Although, the scoring displays are not working at all. I have checked the connections and all seem to be good. What else can I check to see what the problem is?

Check the fuse on the power supply first. Then with an DMM check for the +100 volts and the -100 volts at the power supply.

I have some concepts for replacement speaker panels. These are mods, made of stainless steel to match the other game trim, to cover the plain black fabric panel of with a higher-end look more akin to the rest of System 11.

Nothing available yet, since I'm seeking opinion on the concepts themselves first. The challenge for PinBot was to integrate it into the art, as opposed to something redundant. Check them out in the thread linked below. Your feedback would be appreciated...

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/pinbot-stainless-steel-speaker-panel-concepts-interest#post-3583022

All very cool dude.. I'd love to dress up my pinbot...

I am in search of a playfield if anyone has a lead on one I would greatly appreciate it
Thanks

#2 is the strongest design IMHO, but the cost is more than I would entertain for a speaker panel cover. Not much to be done about that given material costs though. Nice work.

I like the first and second ones.

I second that opinion.

Yes that price was way higher than I expected last time, then shipping was another ~$25 per (I included shipping in that $140). Back then I used a distant and pricey (didn't realize *that* pricey) but known and trusted shop to do the work. This time I will shop around closer to home... And hopefully get a better quote!

Thanks for the comments.

Based on feedback so far, I revised the leading candidate and then tweaked it with a friggin' light-bulb-duh-brilliant idea... check it out there, I think it actually looks awesome now!

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/pinbot-stainless-steel-speaker-panel-concepts-interest#post-3586401

Thanks for continuing to keep us updated on this thread. Love the most recent one.

My Pinbot was missing the topper.

I'm developing an altogether new one:

Antenna (resized).jpg

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-pinbot-topper-his-helmet-antennae

Tech question on the Pinbot.. On my game when the game is over the flippers still have power. Isn't this strange? Anyone know why this would happen?

The contacts in the relay on the CPU board may have welded together or the transistor that controls the relay may have shorted. Do you have a DMM or a logic probe? This is a easy circuit to test.

Hi fellow Pinbot owners, just a curious question if anyone knows the answer. On my Pinbot play field on the left side out lane there is a number 31-1002-549-SP-AP I also have a spare beat up play field that does not have the SP or AP after the numbers. I have also seen in photos of other play fields that have the SP and not the AP after the numbers. Anyone know what the differences are?

Thanks I'll have to check the transistor. Wouldn't it look fried?

Maybe, maybe not. Use a ohm meter and measure the outside legs of Q-67. Low reading is bad.

Your in luck I have one NIB and I'm in Michigan! Shoot me a PM and I'll get you some photos.

Does anyone have a sticker set I can get measurements from? I have the high quality scan, I just don't have all the measurements for printing. Thanks.

Hey- do you have a scan of the sticker on the plastic above the mask that goes over the blue ramp? Any chance you can share the files with me?

I bet we could all use parts of that scan, any chance of making it available @ Dropbox or somewhere?

I 3rd this. Could use parts of the scan if you threw them on dropbox or somewhere

I'm happy help, but we need some measurements to make these. Can anyone contribute?

Can you be more specific with regards to which measurements you need? If you want to PM me on how to get the scans I can get an idea what you're looking for as well. With regards to my first question- do you the sticker on the plastic above the mask over the blue ramp? I guess its like the visor.

I'm in! I will be restoring this baby at some point but for now it plays good!

FB_IMG_1487510613203 (resized).jpg

My left sling shot isn't working and it looks like Q69 is the problem. What kind of transistor is this?

Will this work as a replacement?

tip 102 transistor work..

Q-59 is for the lamp matrix.

Q69 I meant.. And I have a tip 102 transistor for it will that work?

Q-69 is a TIP122 and TIP102 is a good replacement as its 60% stronger.

Is there a good thread or resource on repairing the top of the red spiral ramp?

http://www.stevechannel.com/pinbot.htm

Very nice thank you. Should've known Cliffy!

Yeah, Cliffy! He did a complete restore on a Pin*bot so has first-hand experience of it. Here is the link:

http://passionforpinball.com/pinbot.htm

Can anyone confirm if you are supposed to be able to backhand the ramp from the left flipper?

Before I rebuilt the flippers, I was able to do this easily, but among the issues necessitating a rebuild, they did not look aligned exactly proper. So when I rebuilt the flippers, I aligned them to match the art on the game - which seems to key with using the little holes and a toothpick against the flipper rubber. But that backhand ramp shot is nigh impossible since, and even the shots to the drops from the right were more aggravating.

I rekeyed them back down a tad, using the toothpick against the flipper base and not the rubber, and the drop shots are fun once again. But lowering the left flipper moves the shot path *further* from the ramp, so it's still basically impossible.

So I can't understand how I was able to backhand that shot so consistently before...?

Yes, the ramp shot can definitely be made as a left flipper backhand.

Wow I went through that write up thouroughly and am mesmerized and inspired! the one thing that confuses me is how he clear-coated that playfield without removing things like slingshot kicker arms, lamp sockets, etc, etc. None of the pics of the clearcoating steps showed that he masked off any of that hardware. I am looking forward to tearing my PF down and restoring it. Mine has full mylar so I will get to tackle that challenge. I hope to be able to touch it up and CC it similar to what Cliffy did. His looks absolutely amazing!

I would have said no, but I just went and did it (barely). Seems like a really tight shot though. I don't think I'm good enough to make it with any consistency.

Picked up a brand new repro vortex with un-installed decals and metal flap material to make my own flap. I paid $112 shipped. I think I might've overpaid but it was cheaper than a local guy who had one for sale for $150. Is $112 shipped a decent price for this? Either way, looking forward to putting it on. Now, I just need to find a helmet plastic...

Yeah, I was thinking it might have been "too" easy before, owing to the excess coil stop wear and slop.... but then I didn't think it should be impossible either. The ball has only acquired the proper vector to hit the ramp maybe 5 times, and only once with sufficient power to make it all the way up. Something is off.

But opening up that backhand really transformed the game in terms of strategy, flow, and pace. It was soooo much more fun and playable with that backhand shot to me, anyway.

I had to modify the new flipper coil links (to make them tapered like the original ones, so that they would fit), so maybe that's what's wrong... might just have a little bit of binding at the end of the plunge. That would probably be enough to affect a shot from rest - as in backhanding direct from a cradle in this case - as opposed to any other shot where the ball has momentum.

No way can I backhand the ramp from a dead cradle. From a standstill I would have to bounce the ball off the post, catch it and slap it up the ramp. Not easy for me but it is possible.

No way to backhand on mine either. Post pass is really safe on my machine though.

There is another new repro vortex ramp up on ebay for $112 if anyone is looking for one. Probably one of you selling it...

If it had the flap installed I'd consider it.

you can get the rivets at ACE hardware

I suppose I could try. Do they have the rivet press thing there too? Is the new ramp just going to break that top part off too?

I'm having a problem with a stuck right eye, any tips appreciated!

Here's the post:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/pinbot-right-eye-wont-eject#post-3613172

They are called split rivets. They are clean from the top view they look like rivets but from the back you can bend the longer legs with a screwdriver. The repro vortex has a reinforced upper piece to avoid breakage but the best prevention is to make sure you have the correct shooter spring so it does not shoot the ball too fast.

1487766950974387612289 (resized).jpg