I wonder why they are so off on the colors. Is this common with CPR repros?

I'm interested in a backglass myself.

If pinheadpierre or JeffZee want to sell, let me know.

Seems like I saw some comments elsewhere about some of the blue in their repro space shuttle plastics being way too light also. Odd. I have no complaints with the colors on the repro pinbot playfield or plastics. CPR is feeling a bit hit or miss to me at this point though. I will be proceeding with greater caution with them in the future.

I NEED HELP !! I just broke my topper for pinbot! The base is fine but the bubble is in pieces... looking everywhere for one (internet), can anyone help?

As I alluded to in my previous post, I think it's all relative. Some people weren't happy with CPR's Elvira backglass. I was happy since my Elvira translite was poor. In this case the backglass was very much an improvement although not exactly colored like the original translite. Many years ago I bought a Cyclone Backglass (not CPR). I held it up to my translite, couldn't tell the difference and ended up just hanging the glass on the wall. So I guess my advice would be to not just buy a backglass for the sake of buying a backglass. First evaluate what you already have.

Good advice. I just thought from the description that it would look a lot better than it does (to me).

Just finished adding a https://www.playfield-protectors.com/ to my Pinbot. Was easy to do and makes the PF look great. These things are great for older playfields with raised/cupping inserts and wear that affects ball travel.

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I have a flash that could use this... 6 or 7 cupped inserts
. This makes a big difference yes ?

Yes, perfect for cupped inserts.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/lexan-playfield-protector-install-and-review

I have a Pinbot that is now mechanically working well. Only thing left is the lower orange flashers are not firing but I found one of the 330 ohm resistors is registering about 30 ohms in testing while all the others or in the 300+ range. I've ordered a replacement so that should fix that issue. I hope.
Next is on to cosmetic fixes. I have not done any playfield repairs before and the trouble areas I have are the chest grid and the shoot again area in front of the flippers. I have come across the chest grid decals (laminated and non-laminated). I searched and didn't find any pros or cons of using them. Does it cause ball issues? Difference in laminated or not. Is it considered a hack? I'm relatively new to the community and I want to do things the right way. I don't want to try it if it's not an acceptable repair. If it's not then I'll attempt going through Vid's playfield guide and try not to destroy things.
Sidenote: The chest wear was from the inserts being sunken in. I used the hair dryer/nut driver method and was able to bring them to level.
Thanks.

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IMG_0449.JPG

I had some missing cement resistors on my Pinbot, I found that at least one of the flasher boards on Pinbot only uses one half of the resistors so I desoldered the unused resistors and resoldered where some where missing. For me it was a quick fix given I would have to wait at least 2 weeks for a delivery to New Zealand.

I was wondering about that since the boards have two sides to them. Are each set of resistors for a side each? I didn't follow the traces to check. I was already placing an order for some other stuff so added a few resistors since they are pretty cheap just to have. The board I'm looking at for the lower flashers does have the lamps on one side and the other is unused. I'll give it a try. Thanks.

This is the warming resistor and will only make the bulbs last longer. The larger 10 watt 5 ohm resistor is the one that would cause the bulbs to not flash. Unless you have a different issue with this circuit.

Yes they are.

I just replaced the 24V flashers in the visor with these LED Bulbs: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2Pcs-LED-Car-Bulb-1156-S25-Ba15s-P21W-7443-7440-T20-27SMD-27-SMD-5050-Backup/32591289278.html

Nice tall towers that just fit and look quite nice. If anyone is looking, I recommend these. Note: I had to switch the wires on 3 of the 4 sockets to get them to work (orange wire goes to the top tab when look at the back of them.)

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I think its funny in the description that they say if they don't light, spin them 180 degrees to reverse the polarity. You have to switch the wires on this style of bulb....

I'm actually looking for something a little more compact like this:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/High-quality-24V-BA15S-truck-led-1156-24v-led-goods-van-lamp-BAU15S-PY21W-truck-24v/32655409683.html

Ideally you could use the smaller bulb and replace all the 1251s including behind the backglass.

Those would work well in the backglass, but for the playfield, I wanted something with side mounted LEDs for more spread of light. In fact, for the backbox, I used these: ebay.com link: 1156 13 SMD 5050 LED BA15S Car Auto Backup Fog Signal Tail Rear 24V Durable YU

They work very well for lighting up the face.

I have a PinBot with the laminated decal installed. It looks pretty good. I don't think it really affects ball travel, but one corner is slightly lifted and is probably going to stay that way (wax on the adhesive...). Lately I have been considering pulling the decal and switching to the non-laminated one, then getting the playfield cleared. Seems like a good solution to me, until A) PB replacement playfields go back into production, and B) I can afford to buy one.

The "Shoot Again" area looks tricky...probably will require a waterslide decal? Post that photo to the Vid's Guide thread!

That area on mine needs help as well and I'm looking forward to a decal being available.

It's not in this set?

http://bayareaamusements.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=GS-PB778NL

Thanks, but no, "Shoot Again" is not in that set.

GS-PB778NLL (resized).jpg

Re:SHOOT AGAIN - somebody on Pinside must have high-res scans (or could made some) of a PinBot playfield - or would be willing to make a hi res scan of that detail for you, from which you could make a waterslide. The art around the insert seems harder to reproduce, but again, Vid's thread might be helpful on that.

About those decals, anyone who bought a set would be willing to spare his "Adv X" decal? That's the only one I need.

Thanks!
-G

Ditto- mines very faded. Replicated one myself but don't have a printer capable of printing white ink at my disposal to print it.

Mine's gone and I might redo the ramp as part of my restoration. So anyone wanting to be part of it will get a big shout out!

Me too. If someone here could scan one, I would like to try cutting a stencil on my cameo silhouette to airbrush it on the underside of the ramp.

That metal piece is correct. It deflects balls from the arm of the lifting ramp. It was originally held down with 2 sided tape. The adhesive is under those 2 tabs on the metal part. Not like in your pin with what looks like hot glue.

I hunted back through this thread and saw that this part is missing on many Pinbots, so lots of photos without the piece. On my game the hot glue came off cleanly and then I used double sided tape to hold the metal onto the plastic. Looking much nicer now.

There is a great photo on this Thread, post #484 by Chipleader. This metal part falls off easily as the adhesive they used originally, dries out and fails. Some Pinsiders have also suggested that the part has a second function of helping to strengthen that blue playfield plastic.

I can remember seeing one in the bottom of my PinBot, but at that time I was not sure what it was for. Hopefully I never tossed it out, and just put it a storage bin.

Very interesting. I did not know that about that piece of metal. It's not factory but rather something they added after, probably sent to the distributors and operators to install at their will as so few games still have this bracket.

The Pinbot flyer images do not have it.

Ok so still bringing back a pinbot from the dead... most everything's working now except a couple flashers.. the damn game smells like something's gonna burn up if you play it for more than a couple games so I'm going over it and looking for ground shorts and I stumbled onto this.... is this somebody's accident or is it supposed to be this way? It looks like the ground is soldered to the 28v power? Can someone confirm this for me please on their game

IMG_3281 (resized).JPG

If I remember it is the way it's suppose to be. I'll check tonight.

This is correct. This is the A/C solenoid relay. I know it looks wrong but there should be a bridge of solder between the connections.

Any chance any of your coils are getting extremely hot when its on? One of my flippers started doing that at one point, and smelled similar to what you mean. All it came down to was some cold solders- I reheated the one's on the flipper coil and on one of the boards that power the flippers. One of the wires had lost connection from a pin that should have completed the circuit in that connector. (Also, I'm not super savvy with electrical so I apologize if any terminology is off, but it was an easy fix). My point being- if any coils are hot and smelling perhaps follow the wires to where they go on the board- the schematics helped wonderfully for that.

It's coming from the backbox mostly... feels like a lot of those cement resistors are getting pretty warm. Thanks for confirming on the board there is indeed a bridge of solder... I just saw it and though ah-ha!

I'll just have to keep hunting I guess. Man pinbots got alotta shit shit going on as far as wiring n such I feel like my wpc games are easier to work on lol

Hey guys, should I add a backbox latch to my under restoration Pinbot or would that be a total crime as it's not factory.

Any of you guys have a latch installed?

I have a latch on mine ans quite sure it was factory....

The one I did had a latch as well. Looked like it as there from the beginning.

Funny, I asked a well known restorer an he said there were none factory and I should not install one.

I ordered and installed the PBR maze decal only to find out it's too small. They claim they've never had this issue before.

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It's probably a "normal size or fit to page" problem while they print it........hope you'll get your money back.

HUO, all-original, and no bracket. As long as you're going to bolt down the head anyway, why add holes to the cabinet?

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Exactly.

Mine came without a bracket but it has holes from a bracket. I plan to add one since the upper cabinet wobbles more than I would like it to.

Owner just never installed it.

Just want to make sure you have bolts in there now. The latch is only supposed to hold the head in place while you are putting the bolts in. It should be pretty solid and not wobbly with the bolts snugged down.

Anyone with a used/some missing insert decal set for Pinbot? Please PM

Thanks!

I'll have a look at my stock tonight.What do you need exactly ?