The photo dump, as promised.

Condition of old MPU after a lot of attempted cleanup, with (original?) ROMs sitting on top:
IMG_20230102_234452342 (resized).jpg

Sound board. The ROM was actually "Music / Spch" which potentially blows my theory that it was that chip, since speech works.
IMG_20230102_233049878 (resized).jpg

Rottendog CPU:
IMG_20230102_233015798 (resized).jpg

Rottendog 11A Audio Module:
IMG_20230102_233026323 (resized).jpg

The area below that in case it's relevant:
IMG_20230102_233040976 (resized).jpg

That is an early version of the Rottendog board. The newer one doesn't have that daughter board and also has a couple different precision multiturn potentiometers to adjust the sound section. I don't believe that one has any of the sound issues you describe.

Interesting information, thank you! If for some reason I can't get my spare MPU running properly, I may end up getting the newer version.

Many years ago I was told by an engineer from Mettler/Toledo that IC legs are flared to make assembly easier as it keeps the chips in the holes when the boards are turned over for soldering. Since the vast majority of DIP ICs end up soldered rather than socketed I have never questioned this information.

However, your suggestion that the leg flare is designed to keep the chips in their sockets sounds reasonable too. Since I am always interested in correcting my misconceptions I did a little bit of research this morning, consulting data sheets from modern and old EPROM chips, DIP sockets, as well as googling random Internet discussions of this topic. The only information I found, however, is some support for the through-hole soldering argument, a suggestion that the flare makes it easier to build stuffing robots, as well as claims that not all IC leads are bent outward and that some high-value chips in particular use vertical legs.

I would appreciate any pointer to better technical information on ICs and sockets.

I just picked up a PinBot and it has a ‘feature’ I hadn’t seen before.
There’s a wire ball guide / habitrail that goes from the bagatelle area to the left inlane.
The inlane plastic looks like it’s been trimmed a little. Pics on IPDB show that plastic cut similar to the right inlane to allow a ball to drop - so maybe it was a planned feature?
Does anybody else have this?

C2F3941C-ABB4-4FD6-B596-A0AFABDCCD29 (resized).jpeg

6EAC6C67-CEED-4953-90DB-9BD0BEE60040 (resized).jpeg

033E9841-E149-469F-B395-A73CF87C10D7 (resized).jpeg

I think I recall seeing a post where someone added that. Nothing factory that I am aware of.

I made one like that for my machine but i used copper romex wire inside a blue nylon housing for the rails.

Wow this is cool! Might have to implement this on mine…

I'm having a heck of a time finding switches for my Pinbot. Specifically SW-1A-164 for the entrance and exit to the ramp. Searched a lot of sites (Marco, Action Pinball etc.) Nobody has them in stock. Can someone direct me to a supply or solution? I thought about trying to just get the reeds and building my own. Any suggestions? Thanks.

I find Pinball Resource has lots of parts not available elsewhere. You should give them a call or send them an email. You cannot search their website or order online. But they have never let me down.

///Rich

The magnet switches by M&M Creations are a much more elegant solution than those factory switch stacks, especially if you use one of Freeplay 40’s translucent ramps.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/mampm-creations-mrs-catalog

I ordered MRS switches as well for my ramp and love them. I do have the old switches if you are interested in them. I will probably never use them again but I do not have the brackets for the switches.

What do you mean?

Hmm seems to me more like a cool way for the ball to return to a different flipper after hitting the ramp.

The design of that crossover ramp looks very flawed to me. First of all, there is nothing to guide it on the wire form. I think most balls would just fall to the playfield instead of riding the wires. The second problem is dropping off to the in-lane. There is nothing there preventing a fast rolling ball from just rolling across the slingshot plastic to the out-lane.

The homebrew one I made years ago has a ball catcher to prevent that.

When I came up with the idea for mine (see photo) it had nothing to do with ball draining. I liked the idea of the upper playfield being able to deliver the ball to either flipper lane and thought a cross-playfield habitrail would look cool. Just personal preference that I'm sure many others will despise.

10211d70a5a87ff6d1b6fa536cdb8cd65bf08e33 (resized).jpg

Just got done playing a few games with my PEMBOT game roms and I really enjoying the gameplay! Brings a new set of rules and stays true to the original! I would highly recommend giving it a try!

Thanks for posting those. I'm tempted to get a set for the ramp simply because adjusting the leaf switches is a pain in the ass since you can't do it with the ramp in place. Real trial-and-error, mostly error, in that process. Seems like the exit switch is very intermittent on mine, which is not cool.

Richard

I bought a new ramp and put the old switches on and I was having issues with the exit ramp going off all the time. The MRS switches fixed that and they work great! Get them you won’t regret it!

C5A01D51-4E08-4E01-9C73-59433F91B054 (resized).jpeg

D4743764-8165-4CD5-8E17-BB69C9AF157D (resized).jpeg

Had a good game today, could have clocked it with another solar but wanted the highest score.

3BAB28E4-80BD-470B-9561-07DD5D681EC7 (resized).jpeg

AB55E84A-F002-48FD-A47C-55962318BEEC (resized).jpeg

Thanks guys, all good info. Now to search for some plastics.

I could even make a ramp for Pinbot without the roll-over switch cutouts if the magnetic switches were going to be used.

You make a red/blue ramp with magnet switches, connector plugin pigtail with all flashers and stickers installed, a true drop in replacement, then put me down for 1. I like the look. But if it ain’t broke… my original is in great shape, so motivation is low, but if it drops in and works, then ok, give me one. But currently not got the time to move hardware from old to new and remanufacture as needed, looking for more turnkey solutions since diagnosed with the big C. Using my time to play pins more than refurb/mod/restore these days.

Turn on unlimited extra balls and play forever… I quit at my fifth rollover.

I finally installed the red/blue ramp I bought from you a while back. Fits and looks great! Just wish I had some clear decals for it.

Wow need to set this up hard then, only had it a few weeks. Maybe get a blindfold lol

Let everything auto percentage and watch your timers fall to nothing… my drop timer was like something stupid low at one point… kind of fun to watch how it flexes to meet percentages. Put it on hard and try to get to the sun… if your a masochist, or tell your friends your turned it on easy if you’re a sadist

I've found over the years that nothing makes me get bored of a game more than if it's way too easy. It's why I used to churn through a game in 2-3 months and swap it for something else. Loose or no tilts, everything set either factory or easier. Boring.

Now I set everything up like it's at a tournament. The casual people who play don't notice (they don't shake) and they don't know the settings. Keeps the ball times really low and the interest/challenge levels high.

All,
My (recently purchased) PIN*BOT's knocker doesnt strike when a match is made, the knocker works (on test etc), is it because its on free play? And the match sequence seems to work etc (topper lights flash etc)
I've looked through the manual, other than turning the match feature on or off (it is ON), doesn't seem to be anywhere where I can manually prevent the knocker from activating on match or not.

Any advice, I would much prefer to hear the sound, whether or free paly or not.

Thanks,

One other question...

My ramp enter switch (switch 40) was not registering, after some trouble shooting seems like it is the resistor between two contacts - Ive bypassed the resistor for now and wanted to know:

-What is the resistor there for anyway? I notice almost all electrical components under the playfield have em.

-What risk is there to run the switch without one?

-Any one know the resistor value to replace it? is it listed in manual?

Thanks

That's not a resistor it's a diode. It's required. It's a 1n4004 diode. All switches in a switch matrix need them although they are left off of coin switches sometimes (which is bad if the switch gets stuck on)

Some switches will have a resistor and capacitor on them, those are the special activation switches on the pops and slings.

Ah ok, I understand now, one way voltage switch. ok
Ill replace this asap...do you happen to know what type of diodes are used on the flippers? I'm getting flickering on some LED flashers, I believe the flipper diode needs to be replaced?

I'll check manual too...

Thanks!

1n4004 also but you can just get 1n4007's they will all work (higher voltage capacity)

Correct, with that being said you need to install them in the correct direction. You need to look at the old diode's silver band and install the new diode band the same way.

Ah yes ok thanks for that.

Hi
Anyone convert to led displays and have 2 working lower numeric displays they would like to sell. Please pm me

So can anyone confirm why my knocker doesn't hit when a match is made? is it cause its in free play? Cause I'm using PEMBOT? the knocker works for all tests etc.

much appreciated,
thanks,

I am running PEMBOT and on free play. I believe mine does the same on matching no knocker but high score and replay it works. I will confirm and get back to you when I match a game again.

I sold mine when I converted to LED. Honestly do the conversion and never have to worry about it again and they look great!

Yes, I noted yesterday that the knocker did in fact work on replay score achieved. I'm still left wondering if the knocker not actuating on a match is a symptom of PEM*BOT or free play setting?

Anyone else can confirm?

That's a PEMBOT bug, unfortunately. It will be fixed in J-3. In the mean time, please PM me your email address so that I can send you an updated version for testing.

Ah ok thanks for confirming and letting us know. There was another issue I experienced with getting a high score, that I ended up having to reset the machine. I thought I read about that on another post or thread, but I recall it was about the music (not playing?) for reaching new high score, whereas the music played for my instance, but some other issues arose. I can PM you with more details.

Regards,

I could use a little help. My Pinbot has been very reliable since I got it about 10 years ago. I had just played it this past weekend and was going to take it to MGC in a couple of months. I turned it on tonight, and in the middle of the game, the flippers died, displays went out, and the music kept playing. Any ideas on where to start troubleshooting? Thanks.

Sounds like you need to rebuild the power supply. If you test the 5 volts at the cpu, what do you get?

About 4.3V. I'm guessing that's not good, ha!

By "rebuild the power supply", that means board work right? Sorry, I can fix most mechanical things but have not had to do much on the electronics side other than replace transistors, a BR, etc. If this is board work, maybe Borygard could give me a hand. He's usually at MGC.

4.3 volts is way low. Problems start happening at 4.86 volts and lower. At a minimum you need to replace the electrolytic caps, maybe the voltage regulator and the bridge rectifier.