In keeping with the red/blue theme, I have a red rubber on the flipper!

///Rich

Trying to adjust the target bank but when the motor is at the bottom the targets are 1/4" below the pf. I can't adjust the screws up or the motor won't turn through the full cycle.

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Can anyone provide me with a good pic of under the playfield right sling area? Im thinking I wired something wrong, as I am getting a reset when the sling hits. I need to see where the wires connect on the switches specifically. Thanks!

Right sling area

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There should be a bottom plate on the visor motor assembly. Looks like you are missing it. You will not be able to adjust anything with out it.

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Thanks for this. Can you clarify where these two white wires with no markings are attached to? This is the one anomaly on my setup.

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I have it off, what I'm trying to say is with that on I can't tighten the screws enough to get it level with the pf without jamming the motor so it won't turn full cycle.

Closeup of white wires.

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Finally figured it out. The screw I used in the right t-nut was too long and wouldn't allow the target bank to sit flush. Phew!

Hey all, I guess I'm a member of the club for 7-8 years now...kinda. I bought mine for $150 from a guy that took it all apart to "restore" it. I got handed a tub of parts and I hope everything is all there. Anyhow since it's stripped I'm going to do some touchups. Can anyone tell me if that wear in the orange is visible? I looked at a bunch of pics and it looks like it may be hidden by the pops and mini PF. Wondering how good my touchup needs to be, sucks I have to do the black line as well. I'm sure I'll be here a lot once I start to reassemble. Thanks

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Previous issue was solved. Q42 was fried and there was a bad diode to boot. Got everything replaced and back in business.

Two days later, the entire column for Q42 is out again. Transistor is reading shorted with 0.0 and OL. I just replaced this two days ago with a brand new one.

Closer inspection shows a red wire unraveling around the drop target coil. (Pic)
Could this have been my issue? What could be frying the transistor?
I just had the board shopped, specifically the power board and MPU.

Thanks for all the help so far!

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Putting back together the vortex area and there is a short ball guide behind the vortex ramp area, it appears its been moved a few times by the screw holes. Question is it supposed to be there? If so trying to figure out if it just sits behind the side flap or somehow slides behind the side flap? Let me know if you have any ideas. Thanks.

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Mine didn't have one, looks like it was put there to support the entrance.

Thanks!

TAVsPlace , it’s not on mine either, but it looks like the guide used is same as the guide at the advance planet (green) target

You won't be able to see it. That's right behind a bank of targets and under the mini-playfield.

Cool, appreciate the feedback.

This may have already been asked but I could not find accurate info on it so I am asking it (possibly) again.

I am replacing my old, crusty speakers in Pinbot. The original, main Backbox speaker is a 4" x 10" 8ohm speaker. I can only find the 4" x 10" in a 4ohm and spoke with numerous re-sellers including Parts Express and a couple of others and they all confirmed that they only sell it in a 4ohm version now days.

So, I am assuming that I would need to add a resistor to the 4ohm speaker to make it 8 ohms. My question is, has anyone done this before on their Pinbot with a modern 4" x 10" speaker and did you add a 4ohm resistor or did you simply drop in the new speaker as is and had no issues?

I installed the BOSS BRS410 4”x10” directly in mine with no modification. It’s 4ohm and it sounds/works good enough for me.

Thanks for your feedback.

Putting a 4ohm in place of an 8ohm speaker would work but I am concerned about it overheating the amp. The amp has to work harder pushing the 4ohm vs the 8ohm speaker. I may just drop the speaker in and see how hot the amp get's without adding a resistor for now and keep a close eye on it but it apparently is working ok for you.

The speaker in the cabinet is 8 ohm too. Both speakers are wired in parallel giving the amp 4 ohm impedance total. You could replace the cabinet speaker too with a 4 ohm speaker. Then rewire the sound board connector to have both speakers in series for a 8 ohm impedance, this will keep the sound level even as it was before. You may need to turn up the volume a bit tho.

I am replacing them both but I ordered the 8ohm for the cabinet speaker so it is correct to the original. I couldnt find the 8ohm for the back box so I ordered the 4ohm which is why I was thinking of going with a single resistor for it.

Use two speakers in the back box. Then wire the back box speakers in series, then parallel the back box speakers with the cabinet speaker. This will keep the impedance the same as the original.

UPDATE - So I simply dropped in the 4" x 10" speaker as "grbgemen" did and the speaker did work ok but I did notice that the sound levels of the speaker and the woofer in the cabinet were not equal. It wasn't a huge difference but because of my OCD I did notice a difference.

I was going to take "Grumpy's" advice next but figured I would try one more thing before I messed with all of that wiring in parallel and series. I installed the 4ohm resistor since it is such a quick and easy install. Fortunately the resistor fixed the sound level issue so everything is good to go and all running at the original 8ohms.

As far as the sound quality, I can tell a difference with the new speakers but it is nothing dramatic which I didn't expect. I replaced the 4" x 10" speaker in the back box and the 6.5" woofer in the cabinet. The only speaker I did not replace was the small 3" one. The technology back in the 80's on these pin's never had anything incredible when it came to the amp's, sound's, hardware and etc. You can spend $200 on new speakers and the quality gain is going to be very minimal in my opinion. It isn't worth spending a lot of $$$ when it comes to the sound in these older pins but I do like replacing the old 35 - 40yr old speakers just because they do deteriorate and the paper breaks down over the years.. I do like the ease of installation with the Pinball Pro and other branded kits but the bang for your buck just isn't there unless you are installing those kit's into later pins that have better soundtracks and better sound hardware to begin with. (Just my opinion)

I was also upgrading the speakers in my Theatre of Magic at the same time as Pinbot and spent a little more $$$ on TOM due to it having DCS, better sound hardware and soundtrack but I still spent less than $160 total for both pins. The installation was easy. The only thing that I spent any significant time on was researching the original specs of both machines.

I do want to thank Grumpy and grbgemen for their advice

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I'm in the middle of a restoration. Anyone have a PDF of all the stickers, preferably on one sheet?

I found this:
http://www.pinballrebel.com/pinball/cards/

but they are all separate, which drives up the cost of printing

thanks

Thanks for the detailed post. Now I want to install a 4ohm resistor on mine and see what it sounds like.

Thanks for the write up and advice. Have you added an external sub? I added one that is shared between my Pinbot and DE Star Wars, and it is a huge difference. The extended bass even with the old factory speakers works surprisingly well on Pinbot. You can adjust the bass just enough to where there is just a little bass in Pinbot’s robot voice and it sounds really cool! And it suits the heavy bass tracks of the music well.

No I didn't opt to go with an external sub. I just wanted to replace the old, original factory speakers with some new, more modern speakers but stay within a budget and keep it mainly stock.

So I'm almost ready to see if my project game will boot or catch on fire. Can someone tell me where this ground braid goes? It's coming off the wingnut on the left side of the backbox in center of the pic. Based off length I first thought it attached to the bottom right corner of the MPU but I looked at other pics and don't see any with the braid attached there.

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It is supposed to connect the backbox ground to cabinet ground

DONE

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That looks great. Where did you get the blue translucent loop-ramp? My stock one has seen better days and might need to get swapped someday.

Looks like a FreePlay40 ramp:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/freeplay40-ramps

Thanks, found it. The screw is kinda tucked under the head and hard to see. Your game looks great! I am many, many hours away from that.

I make those for both Pinbot and Jackbot

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I found the correct 4" speaker that Pinbot uses. I replaced the 4" x 10" speaker and the 6.5" woofer as documented above. I wonder if it's worth swapping out the final speaker which is the small 4" on the right side of the back box.

I'm curious if you could really hear any difference with that tiny speaker which is mainly for the higher frequencies. I haven't purchased it yet but would love any feedback.

Anyone have a used original credit/match display they would sell me? Please PM me if so. Thanks!

I saw this on ebay today.

ebay.com link: itm

Pinbot @ Aldi this week.

I'm not sure what it is used for...

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Clothes hamper?

Cats in space.

Sensory deprivation rocket?

Wondering if someone can help me my pinbot in attraction mode only the right side three flashers under the visor flash they do not oscillate or the left ones do not come on at all but during gameplay they work as they should and they oscillate between the left and right perfectly fine very strange problem I have tried replacing Q 71

Are you using PEMBOT rom?

That's the behavior of MPUs jumpered for the German/Austrian/Swiss markets. Pinbot uses too many flashers, so the right eye is on a controlled solenoid circuit, rather than on a more typical switched one as the left eye is. Unless the MPU is jumpered for the German market, the solenoids are turned on during the rules display when the visor needs to be flashing. You can verify this by keeping either flipper button pressed during the rules display. The flippers are enabled toward the end when the visor needs to be flashing. On German-jumpered games the solenoids are never turned on during the attract mode, and only the left eye is blinking. Maybe a safety regulation issue.

And, yes, PEMBOT J-1 has this behavior, too. I have fixed this and another light bug and just need to make a patch to release it as the J-2 update. If anybody is waiting for such an upgrade, let me know.

107 pages, I'm late to the party!

I haven't had my Pinbot long, but I love it, play every day. Had it about 3 months now. Found it right here on Pinside.

I have noticed 2 glitches with my machine. #1, randomly the background music will stop. Once the ball drains and a new ball is put into play, the music starts again.

#2, the solar value switch will occasionally not work. I have tested this several times and every time I test it, it works 100%. I've run diagnostics on it, had a game going and run the ball over the switch and it works 100%. Then, I'll play a game and It won't work for a few times, then not and then it works again. Very frustrating. Any ideas?

#1 could reseat connectors dealing with the sound (not sure without looking them up)
#2 replace the switch

Thanks, will do exactly that.