(Topic ID: 70838)

Pinbot Fans and Owners Club!

By wayout440

8 years ago


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  • 427 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 51 minutes ago by Cudasales
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There are 5,329 posts in this topic. You are on page 106 of 107.
#5251 83 days ago

OEM was a mini post. It is a bad design.
I was able to use a "T" nut and mid size metal post with a 3/16" rubber ring.

#5252 83 days ago
Quoted from orangegsx:

did I send you some?

Oops.. I was actually trying to refer to the pinball center Europe shop.

You have a shop? Can you post a link plz?
It’s always good for future reference.

#5253 83 days ago
Quoted from orangegsx:

I have a couple full sets of decals left too, located in US[quoted image]

Sent you a PM... I guess I didn't understand what a hassle it is to order from pinball center. They wont ship orders to the US so you need to use a third party shipping service in Europe to get them to receive order and then ship to you.

#5254 83 days ago
Quoted from Vin-bot:

Oops.. I was actually trying to refer to the pinball center Europe shop.
You have a shop? Can you post a link plz?
It’s always good for future reference.

I don’t have a shop but I did restore a pinbot for a friend and had to have decals made so I had some extra made.

#5255 83 days ago
Quoted from orangegsx:

I have a couple full sets of decals left too, located in US[quoted image]

PM sent also.

#5256 83 days ago
Quoted from Vin-bot:

Oops.. I was actually trying to refer to the pinball center Europe shop.
You have a shop? Can you post a link plz?
It’s always good for future reference.

https://www.pinball.center/en/shop/pinball-parts-by-game/pin-bot/?p=1

#5257 82 days ago

I will start here first. I have acquired a Pin*Bot that I finally decided to setup. When I start the pin up, I get considerable hum out the speakers. No change when changing the volume via the pot either. I checked to make sure that all boards including the sound board had all the screws in place to avoid the dreaded ground loop problem. No luck. What i have further discovered is the sound board is not original to the game..The original board was a D-11297-549 and my board is a D-11298-555 which says it is out of Millionaire. I have seen some Pin*Bots with 11298-549 also..

First are there any issues with running the "newer board" in place of the original. Are all the components the same to make sure there are not sound issues (ie loud speech vs faint background sounds and vice versa. I thought I remember hearing a difference but I was more concerned with the dreaded hum). If there are no issues, than I may recap the board to make sure it is all good.

Do I need to do any checking on the power board to ensure it's not the issue creating the hum?

Any input would be great...

20220410_182202 (resized).jpg20220410_182211 (resized).jpg

#5258 82 days ago
Quoted from Duramadmax:

When I start the pin up, I get considerable hum out the speakers. No change when changing the volume via the pot either. I checked to make sure that all boards including the sound board had all the screws in place to avoid the dreaded ground loop problem

System 11 some hum is normal. Having the screws in place will cause a ground loop you need to isolate the board from the mounting brackets to combat that.

#5259 82 days ago
Quoted from slochar:

System 11 some hum is normal. Having the screws in place will cause a ground loop you need to isolate the board from the mounting brackets to combat that.

I do realize some is there as my Earthshaker has a slight hum but this is VERY pronunced.

I did remove the sound board of the back plane and let if hang free. no change...

#5260 81 days ago
Quoted from Duramadmax:

I do realize some is there as my Earthshaker has a slight hum but this is VERY pronunced.
I did remove the sound board of the back plane and let if hang free. no change...

I had the same problem on my Pinbot for years and just accepted it. Turns out after I sprayed some contact cleaner on the sound board volume pot and moved it around a bit the hum literally vanished and my machine is dead silent now.

#5261 81 days ago

Make sure all screws holding the board are tight. A good grounded board tends to make less hum, this really helped on my pinbot and F14.

#5262 81 days ago
Quoted from MoSeS_1592:

I had the same problem on my Pinbot for years and just accepted it. Turns out after I sprayed some contact cleaner on the sound board volume pot and moved it around a bit the hum literally vanished and my machine is dead silent now.

I'll give that a try. Thanks

#5263 80 days ago
Quoted from RGarriott:

Make sure all screws holding the board are tight. A good grounded board tends to make less hum, this really helped on my pinbot and F14.

Same here; all my system 11 games over the years taught me that all mounting screws in place, and tight, cuts the hum down significantly in almost all cases. I was a bit confused by slochar 's statement contrary to that.

MoSeS_1592 advice on contact cleaner in the volume pot is on target as well. My choice there would be DeOxit; stuff is practically magic.

Richard

#5264 80 days ago

Concerning System 11 hum. Make sure your machine is NOT plugged into a circuit that incorporates a dimmer switch.

#5265 80 days ago

OK - I'm working on a bad onion - every time I fix something, I find something else broken.

This time, the machine does not sense the ball draining until it does a ball search - once it kicks the ball over toward the right, then it scores the bonus, etc. I've checked the switch several times using the ball - The switch closes fine, and was checked with a meter. I'm not sure where to go next. I've checked the relays on the little circuit boards under the playfield, no cold/cracked solder joints, and the wires to the board are solid and look good.

Ideas? Thanks for looking.

(Up next will be the flashers - all the sand resistors are good, ohm out fine, and are solidly connected to the circuit boards.)

#5266 80 days ago
Quoted from someotherguy:

Same here; all my system 11 games over the years taught me that all mounting screws in place, and tight, cuts the hum down significantly in almost all cases. I was a bit confused by slochar 's statement contrary to that.

Didn't say that unbonding it from the ground eliminated the hum, but it's a way to eliminate a ground loop. That's if the hum is caused by that; on Bally games it often is. When I used to work on car stereos ground loops were a huge problem, and the solution was to have all the grounds at the same point.

#5267 80 days ago
Quoted from Billc479:

OK - I'm working on a bad onion - every time I fix something, I find something else broken.
This time, the machine does not sense the ball draining until it does a ball search - once it kicks the ball over toward the right, then it scores the bonus, etc. I've checked the switch several times using the ball - The switch closes fine, and was checked with a meter. I'm not sure where to go next. I've checked the relays on the little circuit boards under the playfield, no cold/cracked solder joints, and the wires to the board are solid and look good.
Ideas? Thanks for looking.
(Up next will be the flashers - all the sand resistors are good, ohm out fine, and are solidly connected to the circuit boards.)

check the diode on the switch - sometimes a lead is broken and it touches intermittently

#5268 76 days ago

I checked the diode, (one end lifted) and it checks good. However, the switch is not consistently reading open and closed when actuated by hand, so I think I have a bad switch. Does anyone have the part number? The actuating mechanism is internal to the switch, so I have to order it with the correct actuator. I can't find the part in my parts book, so does anyone have a part number I can use? Thanks

#5269 76 days ago
Quoted from Billc479:

I checked the diode, (one end lifted) and it checks good. However, the switch is not consistently reading open and closed when actuated by hand, so I think I have a bad switch. Does anyone have the part number? The actuating mechanism is internal to the switch, so I have to order it with the correct actuator. I can't find the part in my parts book, so does anyone have a part number I can use? Thanks

are you talking about the one with the curved end?
like this -

trough (resized).jpg
#5270 76 days ago
Quoted from Billc479:

I checked the diode, (one end lifted) and it checks good. However, the switch is not consistently reading open and closed when actuated by hand, so I think I have a bad switch. Does anyone have the part number? The actuating mechanism is internal to the switch, so I have to order it with the correct actuator. I can't find the part in my parts book, so does anyone have a part number I can use? Thanks

It's either one of these, not sure which you are having issues with. Looks like Marcos has one, but not the other: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/5647-09957-00. Not sure if the part number has been changed, or the part updated

switches (resized).png
#5271 76 days ago
Quoted from Billc479:

I checked the diode, (one end lifted) and it checks good. However, the switch is not consistently reading open and closed when actuated by hand, so I think I have a bad switch. Does anyone have the part number? The actuating mechanism is internal to the switch, so I have to order it with the correct actuator. I can't find the part in my parts book, so does anyone have a part number I can use? Thanks

Or maybe you mean the outhole switch, 17-1067 (#16 on the chart above). According to Action Pinball, this has been discontinued but they suggest a workaround switch. See this page: https://www.actionpinball.com/parts.php?item=17-1067

#5272 76 days ago

double post

#5273 76 days ago

Weir - that’s the one.

DQ - I didn’t look in the manual with the machine(duh), but was looking in the blue parts catalog for Wms games.

I’m getting an order together for PBR. Hopefully, Steve has this in stock.

Thanks all - I appreciate the guidance.

#5274 70 days ago

Old q72 2n4401 and q73 tip102 removed and new ones installed. Not pictured also a new diode on the coil. Going to install the board and retest. Hope this does it.

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#5275 70 days ago

That did it. Thank you Grumpy for the diagnostic instructions and Wes for the de/soldering guidance.

#5276 70 days ago
Quoted from jjga:

That did it. Thank you Grumpy for the diagnostic instructions and Wes for the de/soldering guidance.

Playball!

#5277 69 days ago
Quoted from Billc479:

OK - I'm working on a bad onion - every time I fix something, I find something else broken.
This time, the machine does not sense the ball draining until it does a ball search - once it kicks the ball over toward the right, then it scores the bonus, etc. I've checked the switch several times using the ball - The switch closes fine, and was checked with a meter. I'm not sure where to go next. I've checked the relays on the little circuit boards under the playfield, no cold/cracked solder joints, and the wires to the board are solid and look good.
Ideas? Thanks for looking.
(Up next will be the flashers - all the sand resistors are good, ohm out fine, and are solidly connected to the circuit boards.)

Did you resolve this?

You should also check the Visor Open (47) and Closed(46) switches.
I had an issue where the machine was having trouble knowing when balls were draining and that was the problem
One needs to be open when the other is closed.

#5278 69 days ago

I'm still waiting for a package from PBR - my drain switch (#16) was acting flakey - sometimes it would read near zero ohms when closed, other times it was nearly 400 ohms. I had tried to "flash" the contacts, it really didn't help.

I'll check the switches for the visor just in case a new switch doesn't work. The machine seems to be working fine in that area. I'll report the results when I finally get time to replace the switch.

#5279 69 days ago
Quoted from Billc479:

I had tried to "flash" the contacts, it really didn't help.

???

#5280 68 days ago

Grumpy -

What I mean by flashing the contacts is to use a higher voltage than what the switch usually sees. For example, many of those switches are rated for 115VAC. If I put a 115VAC night light (7w) bulb in series with the NO contacts, then close the switch (lighting the bulb), then the 115 VAC will "burn thru" any dirt on the contacts. Of course, you have to remove the switch from the machine, or at least the wiring before doing this. If they are gold plated, then your just kicking the can down the road.

We would use something like this if the hydrogen seals on a generator were showing a path to the casing. In this situation, though, it was usually a metal filing that was on the gasket material causing the short. Using 115VAC and a light bulb, we burned the metal filing, clearing the short. Definitely not for the faint of heart. I'll also add that this was during overhauls, and there was no hydrogen in the generator. Doing this saved many manhours of work.

#5281 68 days ago

New issue of the day. Switch 55 error on the right sling. Visual inspection showed no wires out of place, leaf switches make contact easily but don’t register on the Switch Edges test. I did the jumper test with J10 and J8 and bingo, the right sling activates. I recently replaced all the transistors on the Q area above J8 so I wasn’t expecting the board to be the issue. Both sling top and bottom leaf switch aren't registering, so logic states that both switches can’t be bad at the same time? Anyone got another suggestion on where to look?

#5282 68 days ago
Quoted from MydknyteStyrm:

New issue of the day. Switch 55 error on the right sling. Visual inspection showed no wires out of place, leaf switches make contact easily but don’t register on the Switch Edges test. I did the jumper test with J10 and J8 and bingo, the right sling activates. I recently replaced all the transistors on the Q area above J8 so I wasn’t expecting the board to be the issue. Both sling top and bottom leaf switch aren't registering, so logic states that both switches can’t be bad at the same time? Anyone got another suggestion on where to look?

both switches are tied together check to see if the diode (should only be on one) has a broken lead

#5283 68 days ago
Quoted from MydknyteStyrm:

New issue of the day. Switch 55 error on the right sling. Visual inspection showed no wires out of place, leaf switches make contact easily but don’t register on the Switch Edges test. I did the jumper test with J10 and J8 and bingo, the right sling activates. I recently replaced all the transistors on the Q area above J8 so I wasn’t expecting the board to be the issue. Both sling top and bottom leaf switch aren't registering, so logic states that both switches can’t be bad at the same time? Anyone got another suggestion on where to look?

Score switch is under the play field, you need to push the plunger into the coil, then check the switch adjustment. If good, then test the diode.

#5284 68 days ago
Quoted from Billc479:

Grumpy -
What I mean by flashing the contacts is to use a higher voltage than what the switch usually sees. For example, many of those switches are rated for 115VAC. If I put a 115VAC night light (7w) bulb in series with the NO contacts, then close the switch (lighting the bulb), then the 115 VAC will "burn thru" any dirt on the contacts. Of course, you have to remove the switch from the machine, or at least the wiring before doing this. If they are gold plated, then your just kicking the can down the road.
We would use something like this if the hydrogen seals on a generator were showing a path to the casing. In this situation, though, it was usually a metal filing that was on the gasket material causing the short. Using 115VAC and a light bulb, we burned the metal filing, clearing the short. Definitely not for the faint of heart. I'll also add that this was during overhauls, and there was no hydrogen in the generator. Doing this saved many manhours of work.

Sure, I just didn't know it had a name for this process. I'm still learning! Thanks.

#5285 68 days ago

I learned the method and it was called flashing. There’s probably another name, but I don’t know what it is.

We called it flashing, because usually the light bulb just flashed very quickly.

If it didn’t flash, then you knew you had a really big problem.

#5286 64 days ago

I just picked up a Pinbot and my buddy "Exidy" snatched up a Scared Stiff. I am looking forward to getting this thing setup and doing some bulletproofing to it.

The 1st thing I am going to do is rebuild the Power Supply. Everything is working fine but whenever I get a new pin to my collection I always rebuild the power supply if it still has the original caps.

I will also add a fuse in between the Bridge Rectifiers. I always do this to my System 6 & 7 games but this is my first System 11.

I will be removing the battery holder and installing a NVRAM.

Any other advice on bulletproofing a System 11 game?

Pinbot (resized).jpg

#5287 61 days ago

Anyone using comet 5SMD flashers in their Pinbot?

Any issues? Besides needing to remove the warming resistors?

621F0C7E-CB4E-47C4-BD4F-C801A86CA559 (resized).jpeg
#5288 60 days ago
Quoted from dr_spidey:

Anyone using comet 5SMD flashers in their Pinbot?
Any issues? Besides needing to remove the warming resistors?
[quoted image]

No issues...I have had them in my machine for a few months and they work great.

1 week later
#5289 47 days ago

Various used Pinbot plastics for free. Pm me. Also have a broken spiral ramp with busted part.

#5290 46 days ago

Selling red vortex ramp with flap.

ebay.com link: itm

1 week later
#5291 36 days ago

Finally got the chance to investigate my right sling issue. All the wires look connected, the only diode I see is the switch laying up against the PF that the coil activates. The top switch has nothing and the bottom switch has a resistor and a blue diode looking thing.
The diode on the PF switch reads 3.0 / OL so I’m thinking that works fine. The diode on the coil works as well.

I jumped the pins in the backbox and the switch does fire. Just not practically on the leaf switches. Anyone have an idea of where to look next?

image (resized).jpg
#5292 36 days ago
Quoted from MydknyteStyrm:

the only diode I see is the switch laying up against the PF that the coil activates.

This is switch #55.

Does the slingshot work during a game? If you move the plunger manually does the contacts of the switch close?

#5293 35 days ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

This is switch #55.
Does the slingshot work during a game? If you move the plunger manually does the contacts of the switch close?

The right sling doesn’t fire during the game. I’ve pressed the two switches to fire it and nothing. When I did the jumper test the switches register on the display.

#5294 35 days ago

Update. Found something strange.

Between the two switches that fire the solenoid to kick the ball away from the sling, there is a single blue capacitor(?) soldered between two pegs on one of the switches. They exist on both sides of the PF.

While powered on, I measured the resistance and got something like 0.125 on both sides. But! On the dead sling nothing happened. On the left sling when I made contact on both sides of the blue capacitor, the solenoid fired. Scared the bejeezus out of me too. The game was on.

So when I make contact on the dead sling, the solenoid doesn’t fire but I get a reading on that blue capacitor. It’s lower than the the working one.

I may have found the culprit. What is this blue thing called?
Can anyone show me a photo of their right and left sling setup under the PF? I ask because the white wires with no marks are going to different switches on each side.

45C9EEEE-D31E-482E-942E-9475B3769BFF (resized).jpeg
#5295 35 days ago
Quoted from MydknyteStyrm:

What is this blue thing called?

This is an electrolytic cap. https://www.pinballlife.com/22uf-25v-axial-capacitor.html

Quoted from MydknyteStyrm:

Can anyone show me a photo of their right and left sling setup under the PF? I ask because the white wires with no marks are going to different switches on each side.

The two switches are wired together in parallel so that if either switch is closed it will fire the coil. The cap and resistor are there to form an RC circuit, this circuit was added to make to coil fire harder during a quick switch closure.

Testing a cap by measuring resistance isn't a very good test. A special tester is required for an accurate reading. Sometimes it just makes more sense to replace a 30 + year old cap then test them.

#5296 31 days ago

Electrolytics dry out. Replacing it is good practice.

1 week later
#5297 21 days ago

Anybody else have this rubber with a screw on the ramp?

DSCN3535 (resized).JPG
#5298 21 days ago
Quoted from WeirPinball:

Anybody else have this rubber with a screw on the ramp?
[quoted image]

Mine had the exact same thing I thought it was added to keep the visor from hitting the helmet. my machine had a hard prior life so I don't if it should be there.

#5299 21 days ago

New pf is getting there...

DSCN3522 (resized).JPG
#5300 21 days ago
Quoted from WeirPinball:

Anybody else have this rubber with a screw on the ramp?
[quoted image]

Mine has it.

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