Looks to be original to me,I have never had to do anything with it in the 6 years I've had the machine.
Had the main board gone through and acid damage repaired when I first got it, but that's it.

Funny.. I had trouble finding the green round one as well as the yellow rectangle one. They do pop up in the various shops at some point. Took me 2 months to find the green one.

If your planning to keep this machine in your collection for many years to come, then I suggest you look for space faces for all targets. So you always have one at hand if needed. By saying that, these faces don’t seem to break that often

Aaaaagh,.. I am out of the PinBot owners club,.. so sad to see it go,..but returning home to NZ meant one or two pins in my little collection had to go .. and PinBot drew the short straw
but it is with a family that is truely getting joy from it.

How long will I last without one???,.. given I had two at home for a while (a dunger to learn pinball stuff on, and a good one to play)

Anyone have info on changing Pinbot from USA to European standards? Czech to be precise

I asked this on the last page, but didn't really get an answer, kciaccio asked about the power supply, but the comments ended there. Anybody care to point me in the right direction?

The power supply is worth looking into, especially if it’s original and has not had the capacitors replaced and checked for cold solder joints.

When you checked the connectors, you could have wiggled one enough to where it’s making a connection again and let the game boot again like normal.

Of course that’s just a guess. Perhaps a picture of your power supply would be a good start.

That power supply should be completely rebuilt to rule it out from being the issue.

Thanks GRUMPY I will start there and let you know!

Just wondering if anyone makes a replacement circular orange runway for the Pinbot game.
Thanks.

The spiral ramp in the corner has been reproduced and is available at Planetary Pinball and other major suppliers like Marco spec, etc.

It's a sad day for us Pinbot owners - Barry passed away https://www.pinballnews.com/site/2022/02/22/barry-oursler-dies/

2 (resized).JPG

I'm a beginner at trying to fix my own games, so I hope this is not something that should be super obvious. My machine was flagging switch 48 (left pop) on boot and this pop bumper was not firing.
1) I visually inspected it and it seemed open at rest and close when the ring was depressed
2) I put the machine in solenoid test mode and the left pop did not fire.
3) I powered the machine back off and inspected again. Didn't see anything new
4) I put the machine back in solenoid test mode and now 04/17 (bottom jet), 04/18 (left visor), 04/19 (left jet), 04/20 (left kicker), 04/21 (right kicker), 04/22 (top jet) are not firing

In the solenoid table these are all listed as CPU Board 1P19- 7 to 9. Does this mean I should be looking at a possible problem on the CPU Board connector labeled IJ19 Special Solenoids on the schematics? This connector and area seems OK. Am I missing something else?

Thanks,
Jason

Do you have a manual by chance?

Here’s one of you don’t.

https://images.pinside.com/6/da/dc/6dadcc49f5f52e1c12b31d769275b923623acd71.pdf

…. If you have manual, look at your switch matrix. Sounds like that could be your issue.

I do have the manual, but I'm not sure I understand the relationship between the switch matrix and the ability of the solenoids to fire in test mode.

Look at the switch matrix in the manual and highlight the solenoids you are having issues with. See if they are on the same row and/or column…if they are, it could be that’s your problem…one of those other solenoids in that row/column are the real culprit.

It could be the plug that associated with those coils could be trouble too.

This is more likely as the solenoids aren't a matrix. The switch matrix is only for scoring on special solenoids.

The activation switch grounds the inputs to the logic chips which fire these. The solenoid test activates them through a different circuit path.

Check for solenoid voltage on the coils in question. I think you'll find it missing.

I don’t know how to check voltage to the coil. I found videos of checking resistance (mine were ok). I also checked continuity to the power supply board and to to the J19 pin on the CPU board and that was OK on all of them.

I tried the Switch Edges test tonight and the switches noted here don't register when pressed. For the jets, it's the trigger/skirt switch that doesn't register. Pressing the ring down that hits the ball does register.

CC538D7F-8CA5-41B3-ADFF-3AA8FE1E7885 (resized).jpeg

Voltage set meter to DC positive lead to lug of solenoid doesn't matter which and negative lead on the side rail.

The activation switches are not part of the matrix. The score switches are. Go to pinwiki and read up on special solenoids.

What your seeing is that none of the special solenoids are not working in test. When you were in solenoid test, the game fires these coils in order from #1 to #22. Now since one of the solenoids was not working correctly during a game, then you forced it to work in test, you burnt the fuse that supplies power for all of the special solenoids. The fuse is on the power supply board in the upper right of the back box. Either F-2 or F-4 is burnt. Check this out and let me know what you find.

F4 is blown. Manual says “see note” on that one, but I couldn’t find the note.

6AC2AF3A-FD33-4C19-9B75-B90CB2D3F97C (resized).jpeg

Sure looks to me like the "Note" is the larger lettering just above that says "Note:".
For some reason they didn't want to squash the "F4 2.5A, S-B" lettering into the fuse location of the drawing.

Oops. My mind had something far more extensive pictured about what the note would be.

Alright, fuse replaced which restored everything but the original problem of the left jet firing.

In switch test mode depressing the skirt does not indicate the switch is closed. Trying to fire it manually from solenoid test mode does not fire it. There is continuity between the two pins going to left jet from the when the skirt is depressed and continuity breaks when the skirt is released.
7C580089-161D-4622-B2FF-0B3063351D08 (resized).jpeg

The skirt switch is to fire the coil, not to give points. A second switch is activated when the coil fires which will show up in the switch test. Pull down on the metal ring that hits the ball to activate this switch.

Now since the coil doesn't fire in coil test you do have an issue. I find that the quickest way to fix this is to divide the circuit in half, then in half again until you find the problem. Start by finding the correct coil on the solenoid page in the manual, it will tell you what transistor controls this coil. Then find this transistor on the cpu board. Get yourself a jumper wire that you can connect to the ground braid on one end, the other end you will briefly touch to the metal tab of the correct transistor while the game is powered on. Each time to touch the metal tab of the transistor the coil should fire. If the coil fires then the problem is on the cpu board. If the coil doesn't fire then it's a wiring issue or a bad coil. Let me know if you have any questions.

My Pinbot has been rock solid for maybe 10 years now without a single issue. Last weekend, it started acting up. On power up, the GI came on, visor just cycled up and down and the scores were out. Starting checking fuses, nothing blown, but I noticed when I touched one of the fuses, it kind of rattled in the holder. So I bent the prongs a little to hold the fuse tighter. All fixed. I think that could have been pretty hard to trouble shoot if it were happening intermittently.

Got it, so I’ll be bridging the back box ground to this point:
9DF591E1-96AF-4FC3-BE1B-A286547A57F1 (resized).jpeg
7D7128B6-87A8-4B6A-88E2-9028699C7B91 (resized).jpeg

Alright, the coil fires with the transistor grounded. I’m reading up on board troubleshooting.

Here is the circuit you are going to troubleshoot. The red circles are the most likely problem parts. As before I start in the middle and test the base lead of the predriver transistor Q-72. If you place the game in solenoid test and lock the up/down button down when you get to the correct solenoid, it will continue to fire the same coil. Then you can test components on the CPU with a logic probe to see where the issue is.

sp (resized).PNG

Ok, so once I have my logic probe I'll put the game in solenoid test mode, get to the solenoid with the issue, then look for the high indicator on the probe when it fires at these three test points.

IMG_1909a (resized).png

You are correct.

Hook up the logic probe at these test points on the cpu board.

pasted_image (resized).jpeg

Hello Pinbot club! Anyone encountered an issue with the solar value ramp? Mine suddenly started lifting up and down randomly then after four or five times going up and down most of the time settles back down and functions (relatively) normally. Cold solder joint somewhere maybe? If you have had this happen, please let me know where to look to trouble shoot. Thanks!
DanielM

Don't overthink it. Switch needs adjustment or is flat worn out and needs replacement. That's your first step. Then you start looking for other things.... next up would be to make sure some other switch in the matrix isn't reading as that switch. That's tougher because it might be a strange combination of other switches that cause it to pop up.

If it happens again leave the machine in the state it's in (ie. balls whereever they are) and go into switch level test, see what switches are showing closed, and make sure they are all actually closed (and any closed switches that aren't showing, investigate why)

Cool thank you for your response, I’ll take a look at the switch and follow your suggestions. Thank you!

Ok, logic probe arrived today. When measuring on U45 7402 pin 1, the middle pin on Q72 2N4401, and the left pin on Q73 TIP122 I get the same low then high repeating pulse on any of the three when in coil test mode.

Am I correct in understanding this means he most likely issue is the TIP122 because it is receiving a signal but not switching to ground out the circuit?

Yes, you are correct. Now replace the TIP122 transistor with a TIP102 as they are 60% stronger. Since your going to make an order may I suggest you order a dozen TIP102, 50 1n4007 diodes, a dozen 2n4401 and 2 SN7402 chips for future repairs. Be sure to install the TIP in the correct orientation, double check your soldering job and clean up the rosin flux with 91% alcohol. Install the board and test it out in solenoid test. Let the group know how it turns out.

Odd spot to get the ball stuck..

A6BF201A-6994-42EF-A319-29FA34CE749A (resized).jpeg

I have a Cliffy on the Target Bank too and although it only happens occasionally, I never remember it happening before the Cliffy. I also find it's a bit harder to lock either of the balls although that can be my imagination I suppose.

///Rich

I have not noticed any influence by the cliffy. This was the first time I got a ball stuck up there.. I recon the freshly waxed playfield hay have had an effect on the ball.. balls always fly after a fresh coat of wax.

Twice I had a ball flying against the edge of the plastic that’s covering the blue ramp when shooting a ball up the ramp.

Same here! Never happened until I replaced that plastic and installed the cliffys... that jacked up the front likely increasing the chance of it getting stuck there.

It was desperately trying to get away from the terrible GI setup in the game.

Ok, so the Q72 TP122 is now replaced with a TP102 thanks to help from a local Pinsider. Now when I boot the game the previously dead coil locks on. Does this mean that the upstream Q72 2N4401 is probably also faulty?
A9D4DBF0-86B0-4FB4-977F-3BD24C9DC212 (resized).jpeg5F3162F7-BBC9-4058-A5FB-E238C59C46C5 (resized).jpeg

Once you make a repair like this, you need to remove the output connector and then test the circuit again. By removing the output connector you would not have a locked coil. When a coil locks it stresses the coil diode, the driver and pre driver transistor. I normally replace all 3 as a set because it only takes me a few more minutes. For this coil you need to remove 1J-19 from the cpu board, power on the game. Test the ohms from the collector of the TIP to ground. Needs to be a very high resistance @ 1meg ohm. Then start a game and retest this again, you should have the same results. Then push on the skirt switch, the resistance should drop to zero.

Ok, good to know about removing the feed to the coil after a repair.

With 1J-19 removed and the game powered on Q73 reads 90.0 K-ohm. Game started Q73 reads 95.2 K-ohm. When depressing the skirt the resistance drops to zero. Given the other TIP122s in this area read around 0.8 M-ohm is it possible I've already cooked this replacement by locking it on, or is this indicating the upstream Q72 2N4401 is a problem?

Very possible that it was damaged by the locking on. I would replace the 3 parts as a set that I listed before and retest.

Referring to my earlier problem of the GRN-RED column being down, I did the jumper test and IJ8 Pin2 is dead. The wiki pointed to the transistors at Q42 to Q49. I pulled the bord out and I found some real worrisome things. There’s a discoloration over the area, some green foil is gone, and there is evident damage at Q49. I tested each transistor (NPN) and the usual voltage was 0.6 on the emitter and 0.7 on the collector. Except for Q49. This one read at 1.1 emitter and 3.5 collector. It also has the most visible scorch.

I mentioned in previous post that there was a lot of heat coming off of the ceramic from R82 to R89, enough to cause the hotglue holding the alphanumeric top left to come off.

I’m going to replace Q49 and resolder the burned areas of Q42 and Q46 but is there anything else recommended?

4AFE1B9F-9C78-4766-9D77-5EAE7A470BC4 (resized).jpeg

4956C648-C7D9-4EDF-A91B-5A03A6848080 (resized).jpeg

C41C2965-BD85-4203-871C-EE00C9E3B467 (resized).jpeg

83EADBAB-72A1-401A-842F-0CF3CC42CE6F (resized).jpeg

9C9CB6F1-F450-47E8-BBD5-C0F6AD1A271F (resized).jpeg