(Topic ID: 70838)

Pinbot Fans and Owners Club!

By wayout440

8 years ago


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  • Latest reply 12 days ago by WesleyB
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#5051 5 months ago

Looks good. I went through my pinbot and replaced all the colored LEDs (except for the ones under the grid) in the backbox and playfield with Comet Sunlight. I think the game looks better after I did that.

#5052 5 months ago

I just bought my first Pinbot and brought it home today. After a few things I got it playing as I wanted to give it a try before tearing it down to shop. Funny thing is this machine is German. The manufacturers label is all in german the game display is all german. I can go in and switch to English language but whenever I power the machine down it reverts to German. What do I need? Does this need a new ROM of some sorts? Even when in English I can't find out where to load English. It has 4 or 5 things to "load German" but nothing English.. Factory Reset is all German. Thank.. BTW the tag says "220v 50H" but it plugs in and works on 120v.. so someone must have changed that part at least.

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#5053 5 months ago
Quoted from ROMM:

So for black friday, I ordered a bunch of parts and bulbs for my Pinbot. I LED'd the machine with cool white, which I think looks really good on this machine. I did not color bomb the backglass, as personally, I really don't care for that look. Also did a few star post lights. In an earlier post, I had asked if anyone had tried to backlight the cool plastic pieces of the astronauts in the small pods at on the sides of the playfield towards the front. Well I attempted to do it and I think it looks really good. The couple of the pics make the lighting look a little bit brighter than it really is btw.
My 3 old helping dad LED the machine[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

That does look pretty damn cool.

#5054 5 months ago
Quoted from PatWoodrailLVR:

I just bought my first Pinbot and brought it home today. After a few things I got it playing as I wanted to give it a try before tearing it down to shop. Funny thing is this machine is German. The manufacturers label is all in german the game display is all german. I can go in and switch to English language but whenever I power the machine down it reverts to German. What do I need? Does this need a new ROM of some sorts? Even when in English I can't find out where to load English. It has 4 or 5 things to "load German" but nothing English.. Factory Reset is all German.

Hey pinneighbor (glenside here):

Likely the jumper on the mpu board is missing so it's defaulting to german.

From pinwiki.com:

W7 - Language Select Jumper

W7 is used only in games up to Cyclone. Games with 16 digit alphanumeric displays do not use this jumper. If installed, the game automatically reverts to English after losing the content of the RAM. If a different language is preferred, the "adjustments" menu provides an option to change the default language. Only a few early System 11 game ROMs contained multiple languages. For these games, if W7 is removed, the game generally defaults to German text.

Later System 11 games used language specific ROMs at U26 and U27.

#5055 5 months ago
Quoted from slochar:

Hey pinneighbor (glenside here):
Likely the jumper on the mpu board is missing so it's defaulting to german.
From pinwiki.com:
W7 - Language Select Jumper
W7 is used only in games up to Cyclone. Games with 16 digit alphanumeric displays do not use this jumper. If installed, the game automatically reverts to English after losing the content of the RAM. If a different language is preferred, the "adjustments" menu provides an option to change the default language. Only a few early System 11 game ROMs contained multiple languages. For these games, if W7 is removed, the game generally defaults to German text.
Later System 11 games used language specific ROMs at U26 and U27.

Hey Neighbor! Thanks for the tip.. this is only my second newer game (Cyclone is the other), I primarily collect woodrail pins. (I used to be an operator though of games from the era of Theater of Magic, Addams Family, South Park etc.. I guess from dealing with the on location I got turned away from them, but now have found a new love especially for these WMS games).

#5056 5 months ago
Quoted from Vin-bot:

Good job.. how did you back lid them?

Under each plastic I used a 3smd light strip from Comet. This is the smallest one they have. https://www.cometpinball.com/products/lighting-strips?variant=32219275559014

I found the 3 lights too bright so I put electrical tape on 2 of the led bulbs. Now I realize I can use a brightness adjuster. This would be better as then you could more evenly light the underside of the plastic by having all three bulbs on and the brightness decreased. https://www.cometpinball.com/products/brightness-adjusters?variant=12493660618796

#5057 5 months ago

Good thing this was a remote mount.. it was hanging loosely in the head. Ordered a Franks Board today.

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#5058 5 months ago
Quoted from ROMM:

Under each plastic I used a 3smd light strip from Comet. This is the smallest one they have. https://www.cometpinball.com/products/lighting-strips?variant=32219275559014
I found the 3 lights too bright so I put electrical tape on 2 of the led bulbs. Now I realize I can use a brightness adjuster. This would be better as then you could more evenly light the underside of the plastic by having all three bulbs on and the brightness decreased. https://www.cometpinball.com/products/brightness-adjusters?variant=12493660618796

It also looks like you can cut the strips down.. so you could essentially take the 3 light strip and cut off one or two LEDs to make it a 2 or 1 led strip, although your idea of more consistent lighting across the plastic might be the better way to go.

#5059 5 months ago
Quoted from ROMM:

Under each plastic I used a 3smd light strip from Comet. This is the smallest one they have. https://www.cometpinball.com/products/lighting-strips?variant=32219275559014
I found the 3 lights too bright so I put electrical tape on 2 of the led bulbs. Now I realize I can use a brightness adjuster. This would be better as then you could more evenly light the underside of the plastic by having all three bulbs on and the brightness decreased. https://www.cometpinball.com/products/brightness-adjusters?variant=12493660618796

Thanks ROMM

#5060 5 months ago

Broken part! I am looking for the ball guide assembly for Pinbot. In the manual I believe it is Playfield Part No. B-11111 - ball guide assembly. The thin metal spring portion has broken from the aluminum side to curve piece. Does anyone know where I can find this part? Thanks for any information you can share.
Dan

#5061 5 months ago
Quoted from PatWoodrailLVR:

Good thing this was a remote mount.. it was hanging loosely in the head. Ordered a Franks Board today.[quoted image]

Another board saved!

#5062 5 months ago

My Pin-Bot started to do reboots during gameplay and seems to be doing more often lately. I have year old rotten dog MPU and 2 year old x-pin power supply.

What do you think is causing the reboots?

#5063 5 months ago
Quoted from kciaccio:

My Pin-Bot started to do reboots during gameplay and seems to be doing more often lately. I have year old rotten dog MPU and 2 year old x-pin power supply.
What do you think is causing the reboots?

Check your voltages first.

#5064 5 months ago
Quoted from metalkatt:

Check your voltages first.

Ok. And it's like a super quick reboot. Not the long reboot that it takes when you first turn on the game.

#5065 4 months ago

Dear Pinbot club,
Today I worked on Pinbot to see why the two lights located in the vortex are not working. I tried simply replacing the bulb with another that I know was working, the bulbs still failed to light. I popped the hood and located the two bulbs from underneath. There I found a yellow wire that was hanging loose, it appears to come from the bulbs that are not functioning. Is there anyone who can help identify where/what this wire gets soldered to? Perhaps a picture of the bottom of your playing field? Any help would be much appreciated! Thank you

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#5066 4 months ago

I have an unusual light issue. I recently went all led on my Pinbot. No lighting issues prior to the swap. Well I noticed two minor issues after the swap. My Pluto light no longer was on, and the second from the bottom orange/amber light stays on during a game while the others in the row cycle normally. I also notice this whole row flickers slightly during the attract mode. The row lights up at the appropriate time, it just has a flickering effect and the second from the bottom no longer just stays lit like it does when you start a game. However, while troubleshooting, I notice when the playfield is up, the lights all work fine lol. When the playfield is about halfway down, the issues occur. I don't see anything touching the cabinet as I lower the playfield. The wire looms towards the back bottom of the machine are not in any kind of bind either. Suggestions?

#5067 4 months ago
Quoted from DanielM:

Dear Pinbot club,
Today I worked on Pinbot to see why the two lights located in the vortex are not working. I tried simply replacing the bulb with another that I know was working, the bulbs still failed to light. I popped the hood and located the two bulbs from underneath. There I found a yellow wire that was hanging loose, it appears to come from the bulbs that are not functioning. Is there anyone who can help identify where/what this wire gets soldered to? Perhaps a picture of the bottom of your playing field? Any help would be much appreciated! Thank you

“in the vortex” suggests that you are refering to gi lamps. check if the nonfunctioning lamps each have at least one wire attached to both leads of the lamp sockets.
A. If yes, check if these connections if they have continuity with other functioning gi lamps.
a1. If yes, then probably the yellow wire is unrelated, maybe the sockets are defective
a2. If no, then go to the next line
B. If no check if the yellow wire has continuity with other functioning gi lamps
b1. If yes, then probably the yellow wire is the one you need - check what this wire is connected to and if it has voltage (check for ac for gi)
b2 If no, then you’ll need to fix a broken connection elsewhere

#5068 4 months ago

branlon8, thank you very much for your quick reply! These sockets are really hard to see clearly as they are hiding underneath the thick wiring loom. I’ll try your suggestions, thank you once again for your help!

#5069 4 months ago

LIFT RAMP ISSUE:
My lift ramp does not lift fully up. Everything is working fine, but when it raises the lift arm comes all the way forward in the guide slot then settles back to about the half way
position in the guide. This makes the ramp just not high enough for a ball to go under and the ball scrapes the edge of the ramp.

Is there some sort of adjustment
that can make the lift mechanism not fall back halfway?

Anyone here had the same issue and is able to provide a solution?

#5070 4 months ago

Going by memory - the lift ramp is a real pain to get to. Take a close look at it, compare it to the parts catalog. There's a piece that may have fallen out - I ended up making a piece to get it to work.

If this just started, look in the wire loom or bottom of the cabinet for a broken piece of metal. Mine was missing from the day I got the machine. I'll search later today for pics of my repair.

#5071 4 months ago
Quoted from metalkatt:

Check your voltages first.

Yep. It ended up being the electrical plug into the my wall power strip was only 80% plugged in and causing the problem.

#5072 4 months ago
Quoted from kciaccio:

My Pin-Bot started to do reboots during gameplay and seems to be doing more often lately. I have year old rotten dog MPU and 2 year old x-pin power supply.
What do you think is causing the reboots?

Check your voltages first.

Quoted from kciaccio:

Yep. It ended up being the electrical plug into the my wall power strip was only 80% plugged in and causing the problem.

Awesome. I always do simple stupid stuff first before digging in too much…. End up making it worse!! Lol. Happy holidays

#5073 4 months ago
Quoted from Billc479:

Going by memory - the lift ramp is a real pain to get to

It’s working now.. I disassembled it and put it back together and now the ramp lifts up high enough.. was probably a alignment issue I guess

#5074 4 months ago
Quoted from ROMM:

I also notice this whole row flickers slightly during the attract mode. The row lights up at the appropriate time, it just has a flickering effect and the second from the bottom no longer just stays lit like it does when you start a game.

I'm not sure why some would not be lighting up. Have you swapped in known good working LED bulbs to make sure it isn't just a bad bulb?

#5075 4 months ago

Are you using non-ghosting LEDs?

#5076 4 months ago

Just realizing my pinbot translite is in back of a piece of clear plastic. Should be actual glass right? Anyone know the actual size glass I need? I believe my translite may have been cut down slightly to the size of the plastic.

Edit. Found my answer. 28.5 x 21

#5077 4 months ago

Hi pinbot owners
A friend shattered his backglass from a unidesa pinbot. (Theyre glass from factory)
We are about to order a cpr glass, but wonder if they are same size.
Could anyone please measure the size of the translite from a williams pinbot?

Thx in advance

Edit : see my question was answered in the post just before mine

#5078 4 months ago

Twinbots! I sold an EM yesterday and while delivering it saw a Pinbot in the lineup. It was nicer than the pinbot I just bought a few weeks ago, so as the story goes, I brought a pin and left with a pin.. Now on to the issues at hand. I'm still learning my way around the system 11 games as I'm primarily a woodrail collector. Pin #1 has a Franks battery board installed and it now holds English language (this is a German game). I'm getting ready to do the fuse upgrade to the rectifiers and am shopping the PF. It is now not booting up occasionally. I plan on rebuilding the power supply next, I can only assume that it's never been touched. Pin #2 the slings are not working I visually inspected everything, nothing stuck, wires all look good, no burnt coils, reseated all connections on board and visually inspected all plugs. Fuses are good. Could this be a driver transistor? if so can anyone point me in the direction of which driver it would be? can anyone with a manual also list the fuse values from top to bottom for me? I ordered a manual but it won't be here for a week or so. The second from the bottom fuse that controls the ball kick out blew and It had a 3 amp fuse, I only had a 2 amp fuse handy to try and that popped very quickly. I want to make sure 3 amp is large enough for the kickout coils.. it sounds small to me.

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#5079 4 months ago
Quoted from PatWoodrailLVR:

can anyone with a manual also list the fuse values from top to bottom for me? I ordered a manual but it won't be here for a week or so.

The manuals for Williams games should all be available at the International Pinball Database ipdb.org

#5080 4 months ago
Quoted from branlon8:

The manuals for Williams games should all be available at the International Pinball Database ipdb.org

Thanks for the tip, I'll check it out. I did order one though.. I'm just impatient to get this thing sorted out.

#5081 4 months ago

Does anyone have a source for micro switch 17 - 1042? This is the bank of three on the drop targets that advance the planets. I have one that is acting erratic and won't allow the planets to advance all the time or reset all the time. I'm fairly certain it's the middle switch since tapping it or slamming the target down hard results in proper function. Solder joints are all good. Marco is out of stock, No Ebay, no Pinball Life. Not sure if the lever can be moved to a standard micro switch.

#5082 4 months ago
Quoted from PatWoodrailLVR:

Does anyone have a source for micro switch 17 - 1042? This is the bank of three on the drop targets that advance the planets. I have one that is acting erratic and won't allow the planets to advance all the time or reset all the time. I'm fairly certain it's the middle switch since tapping it or slamming the target down hard results in proper function. Solder joints are all good. Marco is out of stock, No Ebay, no Pinball Life. Not sure if the lever can be moved to a standard micro switch.

Most of the switch bodies themselves are the same, and the lever can just be gently removed and swapped over. Microswitches definitely last longer than leaf switches, but if you've ever taken one apart, you already know what's inside - a leaf switch. They're just semi-sealed being inside that plastic body so they're not getting funked up as easily as an old style leaf switch. Funny you're asking about this issue as mine has become somewhat unreliable in this exact same spot and I've been meaning to tend to it one of these days..

Richard

#5083 4 months ago
Quoted from PatWoodrailLVR:

Does anyone have a source for micro switch 17 - 1042? This is the bank of three on the drop targets that advance the planets. I have one that is acting erratic and won't allow the planets to advance all the time or reset all the time. I'm fairly certain it's the middle switch since tapping it or slamming the target down hard results in proper function. Solder joints are all good. Marco is out of stock, No Ebay, no Pinball Life. Not sure if the lever can be moved to a standard micro switch.

Marco has a bare switch currently in stock, part number 5647-12133-00 but you would need to use your original bracket and switch lever. It’s $7.99. Speaking of which, did you try pulling the switch out and checking to see if the bracket is loose or the switch lever is bent or loose? This would cause it to not push the microswitch button fully. On a Popeye machine I had two switches on the Bluto trough not being pressed by the wire lever and one switch that needed to be pulled off, sprayed with deoxit and worked by hand until it functioned. Eight months later and the new switches I ordered are still sitting in a spare parts box.

The left and right slingshots are controlled from the special solenoid driver section of the System 11 board.
Left is special #4 Q69 TIP122 transistor.
Right is Special #5 Q77 TIP 122 transistor.
It’s doubtful that these are the problem but test them (power off) with a multimeter anyway.

Sounds like your kick out hole coil is shot, just because it looks good doesn’t mean it isn’t shorted. I’ve made that mistake!

As for the fuse values, these old manuals didn’t list a fuse chart in one place. You jump around the manual looking at every page and noting inconsistencies and errors between the pages.
Power supply board:
F1 - 1/4A 250v SB
F2 - 4A 250v SB
F3 - 8A 32v
F4 - 2.5A 250V
F5 & F6 7A 250v SB
All four of the playfield fuses should be 5ASB and your transformer fuse will be a 8A SB

Hope this helps.

Personally, I start at the wall and work my way through the thing until I reach the coin door.
Why?
Sometime I’ll talk more about a very expensive machine I got incredibly cheap because it was electro shocking people whenever they touched the outside metal. The spoiler to the story is someone had broken off the ground prong on the three prong outlet plug in order to make it work with a two prong extension cord and surge protector ! “You are now the ground!!!”
Merry holidays thingy blah blah happy new year (oh lord, please I am begging you, it can’t be any worse than the last two)
to you all!

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#5084 4 months ago
Quoted from thetylander:

Marco has a bare switch currently in stock, part number 5647-12133-00 but you would need to use your original bracket and switch lever. It’s $7.99. Speaking of which, did you try pulling the switch out and checking to see if the bracket is loose or the switch lever is bent or loose? This would cause it to not push the microswitch button fully. On a Popeye machine I had two switches on the Bluto trough not being pressed by the wire lever and one switch that needed to be pulled off, sprayed with deoxit and worked by hand until it functioned. Eight months later and the new switches I ordered are still sitting in a spare parts box.
The left and right slingshots are controlled from the special solenoid driver section of the System 11 board.
Left is special #4 Q69 TIP122 transistor.
Right is Special #5 Q77 TIP 122 transistor.
It’s doubtful that these are the problem but test them (power off) with a multimeter anyway.
Sounds like your kick out hole coil is shot, just because it looks good doesn’t mean it isn’t shorted. I’ve made that mistake!
As for the fuse values, these old manuals didn’t list a fuse chart in one place. You jump around the manual looking at every page and noting inconsistencies and errors between the pages.
Power supply board:
F1 - 1/4A 250v SB
F2 - 4A 250v SB
F3 - 8A 32v
F4 - 2.5A 250V
F5 & F6 7A 250v SB
All four of the playfield fuses should be 5ASB and your transformer fuse will be a 8A SB
Hope this helps.
Personally, I start at the wall and work my way through the thing until I reach the coin door.
Why?
Sometime I’ll talk more about a very expensive machine I got incredibly cheap because it was electro shocking people whenever they touched the outside metal. The spoiler to the story is someone had broken off the ground prong on the three prong outlet plug in order to make it work with a two prong extension cord and surge protector ! “You are now the ground!!!”
Merry holidays thingy blah blah happy new year (oh lord, please I am begging you, it can’t be any worse than the last two)
to you all![quoted image]

Thank you for all that good info. SLINGSHOTS - I found a bad solder joint on the main power line coming in to the right slingshot.. Problem Solved. DROP TARGET MICRO SWITCHES - hosed them all down with deoxit (prior to reading this.. I love that stuff!), problem seems to be solved but good tip on the switch. KICK OUT HOLE - proper fuse installed, problem solved.

#5085 4 months ago

Nothing like taking a perfectly working machine and thinking about making it "better". To that end, I am rebuilding the Pin•Bot flippers and have a used set and all the parts ready to rebuild them and then replace the assemblies there. Seeing what HEP does with putting assemblies on connectors, that sounds like a great idea too. And reading the entire Vid Flipper Rebuild thread got me thinking about Fliptronics but not quite yet for me.

Asside from the rebuild I want to flip the solenoids and put the connectors on the side opposite the coil stop. Makes sense and again, thanks VID. But the wires to the coils will not be long enough to connect to the new coils. Here's what I think I have.

18 AWG wires to solenoids
L&R grey w/yellow stripe
L grey w/blue band
R blue w/violet band
22 AWG wires to contacts
L&R green w/purple stripe
L White w/orange Stripe
R White w/purple Stripe

I can't find the color codes in the manual. I can't find the correct wires on Planetary Pinball as I thought the 10 foot lengths would be perfect.

So, are the colors that I have listed correct? And if so, any place other than Planetary to get short lengths? I know wire and Sharpies works but this made sense if I can get the correct wire.

And once I get this done, I'll build a pair of Fliptronics and do some comparisons.

Thanks in advance. I love this forum but each time I try to understand things, I get more confused. Fortunately my Pin•Bot works perfectly and my grand daughters love it. But tinkering is in my blood.

///Rich

#5086 4 months ago
Quoted from ArcadeRaid:

I'm not sure why some would not be lighting up. Have you swapped in known good working LED bulbs to make sure it isn't just a bad bulb?</blockqu

I'm not sure why some would not be lighting up. Have you swapped in known good working LED bulbs to make sure it isn't just a bad bulb?

Yeah tried other fine working bulbs, but no change. It's really strange how both bulb locations (Pluto and column) work normally with the playfield in the up position.

#5087 4 months ago
Quoted from dr_spidey:

Are you using non-ghosting LEDs?

Yes all non-ghosting from Comet. Again, the column lights work normally and don't flicker when the playfield is in the up position. As I slowly lower the playfield, at around the halfway mark, the Pluto insert stops working and the chest array starts to act up/flicker.

#5088 4 months ago

Did you try moving the wire harness connecting the playfield when the playfield is raised to see if the problem could be duplicated? Maybe a loose connector or a intermittent wire.

#5089 4 months ago
Quoted from Mrg50:

Did you try moving the wire harness connecting the playfield when the playfield is raised to see if the problem could be duplicated? Maybe a loose connector or a intermittent wire.

Yes I can't replicate the issue moving/adjusting the wire looms when the playfield is up. I'm going to put incandescents back in these trouble spots and see what happens.

#5090 4 months ago

Free Play? So two questions here. I'm still sorting out my German Pinbot. This is a German machine with W7 jumper clipped out. It's got German labels and was set up for Deutsch Mark.. with appropriate slug rejectors. I put in US slug rejectors and set the menu to accept US quarters, since I'll be putting this in my bar/restaurant I've set it to 50 cents a play. It takes coin perfectly and registers the plays, then subtracts them as it should. I just noticed though that once the credits are gone, it's still plays for free with no credits showing. Here is the interesting thing.. when I get in to the menu there is no On / Off for Freeplay? No adjustment? Is this an issue with the game rom? Also, can I just solder a wire/jumper back in at W7 or is this a special component?

#5091 4 months ago
Quoted from PatWoodrailLVR:

Free Play? So two questions here. I'm still sorting out my German Pinbot. This is a German machine with W7 jumper clipped out. It's got German labels and was set up for Deutsch Mark.. with appropriate slug rejectors. I put in US slug rejectors and set the menu to accept US quarters, since I'll be putting this in my bar/restaurant I've set it to 50 cents a play. It takes coin perfectly and registers the plays, then subtracts them as it should. I just noticed though that once the credits are gone, it's still plays for free with no credits showing. Here is the interesting thing.. when I get in to the menu there is no On / Off for Freeplay? No adjustment? Is this an issue with the game rom? Also, can I just solder a wire/jumper back in at W7 or is this a special component?

When you go to the freeplay option, does the player 4 display say YES? If so, push the start button and it should switch to NO.

#5092 4 months ago

That is the problem. There is no "Yes/No".. Even with no Yes/No displayed I tried pushing the start/enter button in both positions only to still have the game register games with no credits. I was searching the net and saw that someone else with a System 11 game had the same issue. But saw no resolution. I'm wondering if it's a corrupt set of ROM. I ordered a new pair just in case. If there is something else I'm missing I'm glad to hear of it.

#5093 4 months ago
Quoted from PatWoodrailLVR:

That is the problem. There is no "Yes/No".. Even with no Yes/No displayed I tried pushing the start/enter button in both positions only to still have the game register games with no credits. I was searching the net and saw that someone else with a System 11 game had the same issue. But saw no resolution. I'm wondering if it's a corrupt set of ROM. I ordered a new pair just in case. If there is something else I'm missing I'm glad to hear of it.

What ROM version are you running now? For the stock ROM it seems that L-5 is the best as long as they burn it with the correct U22 sound ROM.

I think the best version is the new updated PEMBOT code. It refreshes the game and makes it better.

#5094 4 months ago

Thinking of selling my Pinbot and wanted the thread's opinion.

Good
- New playfields
- CPR backglass
- LED displays (Orange)
- New Power Supply Board (PinballPCB)
- New Flipper Power Supply (PinballPCB)
- Inkochnito's Bridge Board
- New plastics, posts, etc
- New vortex ramp
- Plastic protectors
- Fully Cliffy set
- LEDs
- New flipper bats
- Fully rebuilt/replaced flipper assemblies
- Fully rebuilt/replaced pops
- New visor motor
- New chest target assembly
- Cabinet art is in great shape
- New chrome legs

Bad
- Front corner has a small angle bracket on the outside, but I will probably pull it, glue/clamp, and add updated inside bracket.
- Rear latch for the head is missing and the attachment area is a bit chewed up.

I've got way more into than it's worth, but was trying to figure out what a reasonable price would be.

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#5095 4 months ago
Quoted from grbgemen:

When you go to the freeplay option, does the player 4 display say YES? If so, push the start button and it should switch to NO.

I resolved this issue. It looks like the #4 display was dead so no way to tell if you were switching FP on or off as well as some other Adjustments. Fortunately I had some spares from when I upgraded my display on Cyclone. I did a transplant of known good display and issue is now resolved.

#5096 4 months ago

Bulb questions.. the manual isn't clear to me. Pinbot face in back box #89 or #1251 (#1251 doesn't seem bright enough). Pinbot face on playfield, red eyes (kickouts) 1251 or 89? and the flashers up on the PF behind the pinbot face in PF 1251 or 89? If some of these get 1251 they sure don't seem bright, especially the face on the back glass.

Thanks!

#5097 4 months ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

What ROM version are you running now? For the stock ROM it seems that L-5 is the best as long as they burn it with the correct U22 sound ROM.
I think the best version is the new updated PEMBOT code. It refreshes the game and makes it better.

Good tips, thank you. I ordered V L5 from Mattsbasement arcade. I'l also look into the PEMBOT code.. sounds interesting.

#5098 4 months ago

Shopping a Pinbot and found these two cut wires at the bottom of the cabinet. Anyone have a photo of where they're supposed to go?

Thanks!

IMG_3587 (resized).jpeg
#5099 4 months ago
Quoted from dddanielll:

Shopping a Pinbot and found these two cut wires at the bottom of the cabinet. Anyone have a photo of where they're supposed to go?
Thanks!

They go in the hole right there up to the top of the playfield under the vortex. Probably to a lamp but I would have to take it apart to tell.

Look for the other ends under the vortex ramp.

///Rich

#5100 4 months ago
Quoted from RichWolfson:

They go in the hole right there up to the top of the playfield under the vortex. Probably to a lamp but I would have to take it apart to tell.
Look for the other ends under the vortex ramp.
///Rich

Good call RichWolfson... I looked at mine and it occurs to me that the blue ramp switches have green and white wires... which I have had to solder back on from moving that ramp to get to the vortex. It might be the right side blue ramp switch wiring. Take a look at this page, step 4 photo "4. Remove the blue ramp along with the connectors.".... https://troxelrepair.com/visor/ Maybe take the ramp off to see if that switch is wired to anything.

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