So it was working before you did the playfield?
rd
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I would guess that something you’ve done is shorting out the switch circuit, and screwing with the CPU board.
I would pull the GI connector off the power supply, and see if it boots up with no GI running.
If no difference, pull the controlled lighting plugs and see if it boots up with no lights at all.
rd
Ok, your earth braid is likely touching something it shouldn’t be.
I had one recently - Mystic - one strand of earth braid was touching a T-nut - the volts were going up the bolt, then going across the spinner, and down the spinner lever and into the switch. Took a while to find that one - because when the lever wasn't touching the spinner, the problem stopped!
If you unplug your switch plugs, you might notice the problems go away too.
Look at every switch carefully, and see where the problem is. Keep the braid away from all metal brackets too.
PS - there’s a lot to be said for rewiring the lights and doing away with the braid when doing a playfield swap (HEP style). I generally do this - but the above Mystic machine was so tidy underneath (lamp sockets were all good) that I moved everything across, braid and all. Would have been quicker to rewire them point to point in the end.
rd
If the GI fuse pops then you’ve still got a short.
Maybe around the pop bumpers. Make sure that the braid isn’t touching any metal. You always want to cover that braid with heatshrink.
Double check each GI bulb holder to make sure the leads aren’t touching the metal body.
Sort that out first. Don’t do anything else until that’s fixed.
If you can’t find it, last resort rip off all the braid and point to point wire every bulb. That’ll sort it.
rd
Did you re-use the original pop bumper lamp holders?
If so, probably needs a light sand down to allow Volts to flow into the bulbs. Of course check with a meter first to make sure your wiring is correct. Should be 6v AC at each socket.
If the bulbs are loose in the holders, you can tighten the sides with some pliers. And adjust the base up a little. Power off of course.
Also, you can add a little solder to the tip of the bulb to make it a little longer, so it makes better contact.
Your pops and kickers come from the Special Solenoid section on the top right of the CPU board. Check all the wiring there. And associated fuses.
Quite possible you might have shorter some of the board with your dodgy GI work.
rd
It worked before - it doesn’t work now - it’s blowing fuses - your wiring is wrong on the playfield again and you have another short.
Also - could be the photo but looks like you have some acid damage to the board. Look at U44. Hey - that could work fine for years, just keep an eye on it.
That won’t blow the fuse - you have another short to find.
It’s on the pops or slings. Whatever those 6 transistors power. The short is on one of those items.
rd
Quoted from JT-Pinball:In my opinion that board has major alkaline damage that has not been abated. The damage fans out from the batterie holder all the way to the game ROMs. Its down into the solenoids and lamp matrix as well as PIA at U51 and U54. Looks like someone fixed a lot of stuff to get that running and did not neutralize all the alkaline damage on the board first.
Agree. Needs a tidy up or it’s going to cause trouble down the track.
Get your machine issues fixed, then send it off.
Do you know Ken Shipley up in Newcastle area? He can do it.
rd
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