(Topic ID: 150656)

PINBOT display segment

By easilybaffled

8 years ago


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Topic Stats

  • 29 posts
  • 4 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 8 years ago by thedefog
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

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#1 8 years ago

I recently purchased a Pinbot with a missing display and the center segment "g" not working on the numeric displays. I decided to purchase an Xpin replacement led setup, incorrectly assuming this would cure both of my issues. The segment issue continued.

So far, I have:
Swapped around the ribbon cables to make sure it wasn't one of them.
Checked for voltage and continuity at IJ1 and IJ2 between the main and display boards. Re-seated all connections.

Not sure where to go from here. (I am rather new to this) If it is the cpu I will send it out for repair just want to make sure I am not missing something simple.

Anyone have suggestions?

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#2 8 years ago
Quoted from easilybaffled:

Anyone have suggestions?

It might be the Mpu board or the Master display board. Did you want help toubleshooting this?

#3 8 years ago

Yes. I would appreciate any help you could offer. I didn't suspect the master display board because it was replaced with the xpin and it was the same segment out in both situations.

Thanks in advance.

Matt

#4 8 years ago

First off, brilliant idea with the color choice in the displays! I think it's the best use of color LED displays in an older pin I've seen.

Judging by your before and after pictures, I wouldn't suspect the CPU board since you would have had the same symptoms before you installed the LED displays. The first thing I'd look at is the display driver board; while it may be new, I'm suspecting it's faulty.

#5 8 years ago

Do you have a logic probe?

#6 8 years ago

No. I do not have a logic probe. I could borrow or acquire one but that will take a day or two.

mbaumle: The pictures don't show it well but it is the same problem before and after. The center segment of players 3 and 4 plus the credit/match are not lighting.

#7 8 years ago

I see the problem, and since you have changed the driver board then its for sure on the MPU board. If your not ready for board soldering then there's no reason to get the logic probe. Your problem may be U44 or an SCR resistor pack, but either will require soldering.

#8 8 years ago

I ordered an inexpensive logic probe and would at least like to learn how to diagnose the issue. I have read most of what I need to I think, but not all of it sinks in. I would appreciate some guidance if you would not mind? I will just post here again when I have what I need.
Thank you.

#9 8 years ago
Quoted from easilybaffled:

at least like to learn how to diagnose the issue.

That's what I like to hear.

Quoted from easilybaffled:

I would appreciate some guidance if you would not mind?

Not at all.

#10 8 years ago

It's amazing that Amazon delivers stuff on Sunday for no extra charge. Anyway, I have my logic probe now, have hooked it to 5 volts and ground, and gone around U44. I get a red, green, or combo red/green at each pin.

#11 8 years ago

Do you have a schematic for the game?

#12 8 years ago

Yes. Printed from Internet. A little hard to read. Do the readings until U44 mean it's ok?

#13 8 years ago

If you do, on page 55 displays 3 and 4 segment G goes back to U9 pin 17. U9 is an UDN7180 driver and the data sheet show that pin 2 connects to pin 17. U9 pin 2 goes back to 4J1 pin 2. 4J1 pin2 goes to the MPU board on 1J3 pin 2. This wire is blue/red. You need to go into display test and stop on a number that uses G segment. For example 2,3,4,5. Then use your probe and check the blue/red wire for low pulses. What do you have?

#14 8 years ago
Quoted from easilybaffled:

Do the readings until U44 mean it's ok?

Yes your problem may be SRC9 or U51.

#15 8 years ago

The blue/red on ij3 gives me a green light or low.

#16 8 years ago

So it not pulsing, and thats to problem. Scr resistors are to pull up the signal to 5 volts or a high and the PIA chip drives it low. If you turn off the power and do an ohm test on scr 9. Measure resistance from pin 1 to 2, then pin 1 to 3 and so on. You should read 4.7k ohms each time. Test this and tell me what you find.

#17 8 years ago

Assuming that is pin 1? If so, it reads 2.36 from 2 through 7, and 9. Nothing at 8 or 10

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#18 8 years ago

And have I said thanks for your patience lately?

#19 8 years ago
Quoted from easilybaffled:

And have it said thanks for your patience lately

I enjoy doing this, now the white dot is pin 1. It should have 5 volts when the power is on. The blue/red wire should go to pin 8. Pin 10 is ground. Since nothing at pin 8, you have found your problem. These are .40 cents at Big Daddys.

#20 8 years ago

You make it seem pretty easy GRUMPY. I am still rereading your paragraph from a few posts back. Can't thank you enough. I will pull the board out and have a closer look. This may be something I can replace myself.

Thank you!

#21 8 years ago
Quoted from easilybaffled:

I am still rereading your paragraph from a few posts back.

I wanted to show you how I followed it from the problem (the displays) back thru each board and connector to the bad componet. This way you will have a better understanding, and be able to find problems on your own in the future. Read Terry B soldering guide, then make the choice of sending it out or fixing it yourself.

#22 8 years ago

I knew that is what you were trying to teach me. I will read that soldering guide. I think there is an old vcr around here that is destined for the trash. Maybe there is a board in there I can practice on.

#23 8 years ago
Quoted from easilybaffled:

Maybe there is a board in there I can practice on

That is a very good idea. Find something small like a signal transistor and unsolder it and resolder it 5 times. If you can do this with out damage to the traces, then you are ready for the real thing. And when you do the real thing you can cheat by cutting off the part. Then unsolder each pin with a solder sucker. Take your time and follow Terrys guide, you will be fine.

#24 8 years ago

One more thing I forgot to tell you is that when you replace the resistor pack is they don't make them anymore. The original packs had 8 resistors and 8 capacitors and ten pins. Pin 1 positive 5 volts 2-9 resistors and pin 10 is ground. The new bussed resistor packs don't have capacitors any more, so a ground pin is not needed. They come in either 9 or 10 pins, if the one you get has 10 pins you will need to remove the 10th pin with wire cutters so that it can't touch the solder pad. Remember pin 1 has a dot on it just like the MPU board has.

#25 8 years ago

OK. Got it. Have them ordered.

#26 8 years ago

Thanks again, Grumpy. I honestly could not have done it without your help.

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#27 8 years ago

Buy yourself a beer and enjoy.
Red and blue displays look great in PINBOT.

#28 8 years ago

I owe you a beer or three! But that's a good idea. Think I will have one.

#29 8 years ago

I didnt read this entire thread (up w newborn n not a lot of time), but a faulty pull up resistor SIP pack causes this problem. I've got like 200 of them if u want me to mail u one.

edit, just glanced up n saw this had been answered/fixed. awesome!

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