(Topic ID: 213330)

Pinball Pool GI & sound issue

By Don44

6 years ago


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  • 21 posts
  • 4 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 years ago by Don44
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 6 years ago

When I power on my pinball pool, the "C" right inlane immediately lights and stays lit even when it is supposed to go out. None of the GI lights on the playfield work and the fuse blows upon startup. I looked at every socket with the bulb out and all seem good and I followed the wire around the bottom of the playfield and there does not appear to be anything wrong with the sockets on the other side. Any ideas what causes the C to light and what else to look for on the GI?

#2 6 years ago

C light is probably a bad transistor or driving IC on the driver board. Check which light number it is and compare the readings on that transistor to the other ones.

GI-wise, does the fuse still blow if you disconnect the playfield + backbox from the power panel in the bottom?

#3 6 years ago

The fuse does not blow if the GI is not plugged in.

#4 6 years ago

I had read on pinwiki that my problem is probably a short somewhere on the GI. Any advice on what to look for? I checked to make sure all lamps were not bent or touching metal as well as the inside of the socket. Could the wire that runs along the bottom of the playfield and to the lamps be a place to look?

#5 6 years ago
Quoted from Don44:

I had read on pinwiki that my problem is probably a short somewhere on the GI. Any advice on what to look for? I checked to make sure all lamps were not bent or touching metal as well as the inside of the socket. Could the wire that runs along the bottom of the playfield and to the lamps be a place to look?

Any place that the two sides of the GI could conceivably touch could be a problem. Which includes the insides of every lamp socket, if one of them was bad. If a visual inspection hasn't found anything, your only real hope is to take out all the lamps and then narrow it down by isolating sections of lights. I'm not familiar with the wiring on this game, but hopefully there's at least a way to unplug the backbox GI separate from the playfield GI. Once all the lights are removed, you should be able to tell if there's still a short without blowing a fuse by just testing the resistance between the two GI wires.

1 week later
#6 6 years ago
Quoted from zacaj:

Any place that the two sides of the GI could conceivably touch could be a problem. Which includes the insides of every lamp socket, if one of them was bad. If a visual inspection hasn't found anything, your only real hope is to take out all the lamps and then narrow it down by isolating sections of lights. I'm not familiar with the wiring on this game, but hopefully there's at least a way to unplug the backbox GI separate from the playfield GI. Once all the lights are removed, you should be able to tell if there's still a short without blowing a fuse by just testing the resistance between the two GI wires.

Thanks, I am still trying to find the problem. How do I test the resistance between the two GI wires?

#7 6 years ago
Quoted from Don44:

Thanks, I am still trying to find the problem. How do I test the resistance between the two GI wires?

Just put your meter on ohms and put one lead on each of the wires. With no lamps there should be no continuity between them, or at least something really high. A short like the one blowing your fuse would probably be <100 ohms

#8 6 years ago
Quoted from zacaj:

Just put your meter on ohms and put one lead on each of the wires. With no lamps there should be no continuity between them, or at least something really high. A short like the one blowing your fuse would probably be <100 ohms

Ok so one lead on each wire that goes to each individual light? What about the other lead? Also, I changed the topic adding sound issue as well. The old tone board was smashed and did not work so I replaced it with a new one. The new board makes a beep that sounds correct but the other 2 tones are a click and a screech. I have swapped in other boards and I know my power supply works properly, cpu is good and after replacing a couple of transistors my driver board is good. Everything works except the playfield GI and the tones on the board. Also, high score displays garble as well as when I go into test mode. Everything else works. I checked the connector to the tone board and it looks as clean as can be. I also did all the ground upgrades in pinwiki and I zeroed out the old audits after replacing the battery. Any suggestions on my sound issue?

#9 6 years ago
Quoted from Don44:

Ok so one lead on each wire that goes to each individual light? What about the other lead?

There should be two wires going to all the GI lights

Quoted from Don44:

Any suggestions on my sound issue?

Do you know the new board is good? I'd assume since one sound works that your power must be fine, and since you get some sound that the wiring is fine. My guess would be the sound board or the driver circuitry on the driver board, but I don't know too much about this type of sound board...

#10 6 years ago

I swapped in a new driver board and same sound problem so I know its not that. Also, I jumpered ground to the chips on the tone board and it made correct tone sounds so I guess its somewhere in between but all the connectors are very clean without any corrosion.

#11 6 years ago
Quoted from Don44:

Also, I jumpered ground to the chips on the tone board and it made correct tone sounds

Good thinking!

Check the resistance from one the pin on the driver board all the way down and compare between working and non-working sound lines

#12 6 years ago
Quoted from zacaj:

There should be two wires going to all the GI lights

This is how it is wired. Where should I put the leads and what ohms setting should I use? To be clear, the lights that do not work are playfield gi including pop bumpers and coin door lights. When I put a fuse in, the coin door lights do come on momentarily but the fuse blows.

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#13 6 years ago

There aren't multiple GI strips, right? When you take the fuse out, all the GI on the playfield and backbox turns off? If so, they're all connected, so on both sides of any lamp socket will work, once you've removed all the lights.

#14 6 years ago

There is multiple G.I. strips. The back box lighting is on a different fuse

#15 6 years ago
Quoted from Don44:

There is multiple G.I. strips. The back box lighting is on a different fuse

Good to know the short isn't there then. Any pair of two wires going to one of the lights that doesn't work when the fuse blows will do though, there should be continuity between all the lamps controlled by that fuse

#16 6 years ago

Zacaj, thanks for the help so far but I am a little confused. There are 5 different ohms settings on my dmm, 200, 2000, 20k, 200k and 2000k. Which one should I use? and Put one lead on the wire going to the lamp and what about the other wire? Also, with all the lamps out, it still blows the fuse. Will this affect my readings?

#17 6 years ago

There are two wires going to every lamp, put one lead on each of them. If there's a short, it'll probably be below 200 ohms, so that setting should be fine.

At this point, I'd probably just start clipping the gi wires on parts of the playfield to narrow it down, checking resistance each time till you see a change.

#18 6 years ago

Did you test the bridge rectifiers

#19 6 years ago

In the pinwiki guide, I saw it says the fuse for the gi lamps is usually a high amperage fast blow fuse. In front of the fuse holder is says 10 amp fuse but does not specify fast blow or slow blow. I am using a 10 amp slow blow fuse. I have never used a fast blow fuse in a pinball machine. Could this be why the fuse blows?

#20 6 years ago

If it doesn't specify SLO-BLO on the strip then it wants a fast blow fuse, which would blow faster than your slow blow.....

1 week later
#21 6 years ago

I have fixed the sound and gi lighting issues. First the sound, the original sound board did not work at all. I purchased a new sound board on ebay and it made one correct tone and the other 2 were a click and a screech. I wound up returning the board for another new one and it was the new board that was defective, the new new one worked perfectly. As for the GI lighting, I went through every light on the string again. Every light was registering around .4 ohms and one was registering 2.5 ohms. I closely inspected that socket and it was a little wiggly on the bottom. I desoldered the wire to it and I no longer blow a fuse. The advice zacaj gave me about testing ohms was the way I found the shorted lamp socket. Thanks to everybody who chimed in on my post. After working on my joker poker and pinball pool, I now know a lot about Gottlieb System 1.

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