Looking awesome! Nice cad work! I’m using that same lift ramp on my machine— they must have reused that a number of times cause I know mines from something different, and I have another extra that I think came from a 3rd game —-both Williams I think?

Wondering about printing that file— I’m planning on doing the same thing with a 1-1 print and gluing over wood to hand route. I was going to print from cad at work, but curious what file type you’d save it in to just send to staples for a full scale print?

One thing a fellow Pinsider did was to hand route with 3D printed templates — he sent a bunch for inserts to me and I just tried one — super clean vs routing Complete freehand w/out a guide. Of course for a first playfield you don’t have to be precise.. bondo is your friend but might be worth exploring.. just need to know your outer router diameter/bit size and offset accordingly on template

Ok interesting about the ramps - wonder if you can just get a new bracket / lift arm for It From Marco so it could be a dual coil latch. the nice thing about your design is that it only uses a single driver Though, hopefully pwming it works well. Could use a dual wound coil as well if needed.

Thanks the the info on printing!

Figured you probably wouldn’t be doing inserts yet, but thought the guides could be potentially useful for other holes u might want now. I’ve had a couple instances of the hand router getting a little crazy and suddenly eating a bunch of wood I wanted to stay lol.

I was thinking the same thing — although possibly with a larger mag with the core sticking up. Either way - I had some concerns about slow balls rolling to the flipper, it would seem like almost every ball down the Outland would be savable unless the flipper could only be activated when Ball Save was lit or something.

Love the vuk outlane save — very unique! Nice progress!!

If u just assume you’ll be redoing holes in a clean new playfield down the road it can make it less stressful to experiment with placements, decide u don’t like something, and bondo over holes to move stuff around. (And not be too frustrated when a router goes haywire ) Looks like you’ve got a good idea on layout, just throwing it out there. I got stuck on ideas for a long time that eventually changed because I cut holes.

Meh, that ramp us only barely hanging over the 2 target slot, just needs some coaxing with an angle grinder

How study is the angle iron? Wobbly at all or no? Considering this for the future as I don’t have a welder yet..

Love seeing the shots come together! The little looping videos are great -- can we see the full shot with that 2nd guide in place?

Wow crazy idea! Only thought Is that it may be hard to lift the playfield w/out the apron there, but if you have half an apron on the opposite side maybe that’s enough.

Awesome gate, love that solution! Sounds like you’re covered but if you wanted to control that gate a servo could work nicely

That orbit under the ramp is damn fast!! The right to left orbit is a cool idea, like how it returns to the flipper— it does look like a lot of energy is lost not on the spinner but the angle it hits the orbit, needs to be guided around a bit more and then it should flow fine around the top. Might be difficult to achieve the correct angle though, and not affect other shots.

It’s crazy how fast you have put things together the last couple weeks, very impressed!

Yeah but didn’t you catch up to real time about 14 days ago, so everything after that was happening ‘now’.. when you attached the cad print and started cutting holes in the pf?

I took the opposite approach and built a white wood first and am now having to go back and CAD and wishing I had done that more in the beginning, even if it meant altering a lot of things.

Are you off work for this time? I am grateful for a job but man I could a used 4 weeks to build pinball lol

Well Excellent work thus far, and I concur with high voltage on the board work- very cool to see! This is one of my top 3 threads, love the updates! Hope to see it thru to the finish

Those clips work just ok for brazing .. if your just soldering though probably no issues.. I brazed bronze and it justbif melted 3D printed clips like that so I switched to wood blocks with holes I slid the wire thru to keep spacing

you can get the Actual alien switches (just spendy) or the much larger Version on alibaba (cheap but large). Or if you just need a couple.. the Williams style reed switch that doesn’t need a power connection are $15-25 each, depending where you get them.

Yes, I’m using them on my upper lane changes. Full playfield, no. Routed out a bit, perfect.. I have not tested the proximity switches yet thru wood, but it’s in my list.. I have both the alien ones and the alibaba ones to try..

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Router for the non circle cuts works amazing, over wood. You can just use a few clamps and it holds the sheet in place well

Damn, big bonus!

I Could see it being satisfying, although honestly i am always trying to doubleflipper thru bonus countdown sequences on most/all my pins cause i want to get on to the next ball.

thats totally fair.. i have been playing alone too much obviously lol.. damn covid

Very cool to see it in a cab with glass on! Liking the sound effect ideas as well. Going to have some background/ music tracks at all?

I hear ya, guess it depends on what kind of a ‘vibe’ you wanna go with.. I think it could go a lot of ways

I’m curious about the rails— do stern lollipop rails fit on a wpc cab? Anyone know?

Ohhhhhh the 2 buttons right that’s a good point

I’m still nervous for you on lexan binding.. I was going to go the same route after asking about to with the pinball amigos and had drilled a bunch of holes (same result as you with centering issues, not sure why ..) when they ran into binding issues and has to free float it. I decided to do the same — honestly it’s not much different visually and stays in place fine. But if you still go for it I hope it doesn’t cause you problems.. it’s one of those things that’s all in .. fixing it after the fact is a pain lol. I did find that larger holes were good with a router or for circles very slowly drilled with a Forstner at the correct size (1 pass).

I was going to ask this as well. I know what you’re talking about with the bits ripping as I had that happen a few times both with spade and forstener. Most of the time with it clamped well over scrap wood though and barely any pressure I’d get clean cuts.

Looks great!! Cool to see a game running in it we ended up with similar placement, although I went smaller and just barely stuck it between the sling mechs, also a super tight fit lol:

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I like the squared look of yours — nice job keeping it straight!

they are pretty cheap to order individual ones as well, with 3 pads on each side for 5v, ground, and sig in and the same out to the next... yes soldering wires would be a bit of a pain but definitely an improvement overall over trying to deal with that chain of LEDs with no breaks and not super bendable.. plus you can design and print small mounts for each LED.

Regarding the inserts-- it is unfortunate that all pinball life had was NOS. When I found this out I put an order in on remaining ones they had to make sure I had what I needed for my build... probably others did as well, and have some stockpile. Still had been planning on a few shapes that were already gone. You can probably get them from Mirco, but you'd have to order a bunch (group buy?) and timing is questionable there.. but he did say he could do a larger order of inserts a while back.

I 3d printed all my inserts on my whitewood and am really happy with the results. I bet if you sent the models in to shapeways you could get really nice resin prints that would be somewhere between opaque and totally clear. Just throwing out some thoughts though..

Holy crap zacaj that is completely ridiculously cool!! And plain ridiculous too lol, haven’t seen anything quite like this.. those tft displays are rad! Great work

Loving the lighting! If you want to reduce glare, could try 3D printing long strips in clear about 2mm thick that would sit in front of the led strips to disperse the light

Ah ok. Not sure, but I have windows for a bldg on mine and with between 2 and 5mm of clear material I get a great light disbursement so there’s not a hot spot - may have to play with infill.

Great idea and execution! Little concerned about how that will hold up to being hit with balls but otherwise very cool, always some new inventions on this build I love it!

Your custom coding work on this is incredible! Can’t imagine adding that to the mix with everything else it takes to build a pin.

Nice! I'd be tempted to drill another hole in the receiver to run the wires thru close to the switch, just to tuck them out of harms way..

Ah yeah that’s true, hadn’t fully considered that

What a pita!! Hope it works well this time!

Only issue with the alien ones is that they are way more expensive. That, and range is very limited. I think I saw bar form factors a while ago that you could hang above an area to detect a ball going by below. Might be an option for that one by the drops. Proxies are pretty sweet! Although I prefer reeds where they fit… also another option for that space, mounting above or even below. They are rectangular so a wider detection path - but also spendy.

Liking the playing cards plastic art!

If you’re doing decals, be aware that every little divot and/or hole becomes very apparent upon application of the decals. Usually you’d sand, bondo, sand down a few grits, paint, sand, clear, sand.. lotta sanding lol. Probably extreme for what you want, but on the other hand the bondo/sanding in the beginning could be worth it. Course if you go with stencils I guess that’s all pretty moot.

Love the marbling effect - looks sharp

Yes!! Looks fantastic!