(Topic ID: 266636)

Pinball Poker? Poker Time? Undecided poker themed homebrew...


By zacaj

10 months ago



Topic Stats

  • 229 posts
  • 32 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 day ago by zacaj
  • Topic is favorited by 29 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

No games have been linked to this topic.

    Topic Gallery

    There have been 310 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

    pasted_image (resized).png
    pasted_image (resized).png
    pasted_image (resized).png
    pasted_image (resized).png
    ezgif-2-1d08d4f7b5a2.gif
    ezgif-6-4edc602f050f.gif
    pasted_image (resized).png
    pasted_image (resized).png
    pasted_image (resized).png
    pasted_image (resized).png
    ezgif-6-41294cba7114.gif
    pasted_image (resized).png
    pasted_image (resized).png
    pasted_image (resized).png
    pasted_image (resized).png
    pasted_image (resized).png

    There are 229 posts in this topic. You are on page 5 of 5.
    #201 45 days ago

    Ante Up?

    All In?

    The Gambler?

    Table Stakes?

    Party Poker?

    Poker Party?

    The Pinnacle?

    Cashing In/Out?

    Final Table?

    The Showdown?

    Poker Casino?

    #202 45 days ago

    Ran a test cut of one 4x5" areapasted_image (resized).png

    It turned out fine, no obvious issues. pasted_image (resized).png

    so I went and did the whole thing. I took one of my rough manual cuts, and stuck it down with a bunch of double sided tape. In retrospect I should have used thinner tape, as during the cut I could see the plastic flexing downward before the bit broke through, but it doesn't seem to have caused any issues with the cut.pasted_image (resized).png
    pasted_image (resized).png
    pasted_image (resized).png
    pasted_image (resized).png
    My first time running a real job on the CNC, probably took about 40 minutes. Plastic seems to have come out fine, and it at least fits on the playfield.
    pasted_image (resized).pngMost of the holes are off center, but not outside the margin of error (I made every hole bigger than needed). pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).pngThere's a few places that need some correction, so I need to figure out how to do that. Aligning the plastic perfectly was a big pain, I don't think I could reliably get it matched up again. But I want to avoid doing stuff 'by hand' for risk of cracking the plastic. Maybe I'll need to use the router manually? Or try to run the CNC with manual control. Before I bother with any of that though, I should probably secure this down again and do some more heat tests.

    #203 45 days ago

    I am assuming that you will be cnc'ing your future playfields and the plastic on the same machine. You should add in some registration holes. Maybe down under the apron and then near the top in a place where they wont be seen. Use the same diameter holes in the wood and in the plastic, say 1/4". Then use 1/4" pegs (router bits, dowels, drill bits, ect) to go through both sets of holes to help align everything.

    #204 45 days ago
    Quoted from tjw998:

    I am assuming that you will be cnc'ing your future playfields and the plastic on the same machine. You should add in some registration holes. Maybe down under the apron and then near the top in a place where they wont be seen. Use the same diameter holes in the wood and in the plastic, say 1/4". Then use 1/4" pegs (router bits, dowels, drill bits, ect) to go through both sets of holes to help align everything.

    Yep, good point. I should have added some on this one just to be future proof too. I'm still half hopeful I won't need to CNC a playfield but if I do it'll be done on this

    #205 42 days ago

    I went in multiple times to try to do the corrections to the layout, but something just wasn't making sense. The corrections weren't all in the same direction, but different parts of the playfield tended to all need correcting in the same direction, and half the time that direction was opposite of how i'd already corrected those points before. In addition, the way I lined up the plastic so that it lined up with holes the closest resulted in it not being parallel with the edges, which didn't make sense either. When I lined it up with the edges of the playfield, right to the corners (where I know it should all match up), none of the holes lined up at all. So I stopped working on that until I could figure out what was going on. I measured various parts of the plastic and the wood playfield, and checked them against my CAD drawings, and they were all accurate. Then I got a t-square out to check if maybe my playfield somehow wasn't square. Nope, playfield was square. But the plastic wasn't! It had a 3/8" skew to it along its entire length. There must have been something wrong with the setup of the CNC causing it to list to the right as it moved up the playfield, so I'll need to figure that out. Never noticed in my test cuts since all of them were smaller. So that plastic is a loss for any real work. But knowing that it's wrong, I don't have to worry about fixing it the right way. So I just got out a router and adjusted all the holes by hand to line up enough. I'll reassemble the playfield on this bad plastic for now to test out the material.

    #206 38 days ago

    Since I had the playfield torn down, I figured I might as well install the inserts too. I've got a big bag of random inserts I've collected over the years from different stores, so I started laying them out. pasted_image (resized).png To keep things simple, I used one size of arrow (1.5" triangle) and three circles. I think the circles can probably be done with a forstner bit, but the arrow will need to be done with a router. Taking some advice from Johnsonvillebrat, I designed a guide for my router pasted_image (resized).png
    and a guide for the shapepasted_image (resized).png
    It took about 10 tries to get the guide just right for a snug fit (a big pain, since each print took 3 hours!) but I eventually got it just rightpasted_image (resized).png
    and made my first cut in the playfield
    pasted_image (resized).png
    pasted_image (resized).png

    ....aaaand immediately ran into an issue.

    Can you spot the difference between these two arrows? pasted_image (resized).png

    One is wider at the tip! I sorted through my inserts and found out that half of them won't fit the guide I made, which also means I don't have enough of the correct inserts for the playfield. I was planning on making them all clear, uncolored, for RGB lights, but I don't have enough of those. So I went to order more.
    ...aaaaand no one stocks them! (unless I want to pay $5 each shipped from europe) What? A transparent arrow should be like, one of the most common ones needed. Pinball Life (who has a great selection of inserts for homebrew) has six colors... but no clear. And they don't have any plans for restocking. The best I can find is that PBR has some opaque white inserts available, but I'm not sure how that'll look since every modern game I know of with RGB lighting uses transparent.

    Luckily, I had one of those in my assortment, so I figured I'd stick it over an led and see how it compared.

    ...which made me realize I have no RGB leds. In fact, I have no real plan at all for how to light all these inserts! Back when I was first planning out this electronics system years ago when RGB was still a bit new, I figured I'd just get some 4-legged RGB LEDspasted_image (resized).png, and then just stick them in a matrix. Except I don't have any boards designed to drive a matrix. And after wiring up the switch matrix, I really don't want to wire up another whole matrix with double the wires. It seems like today everyone is using NeoPixels and other individually addressable, chainable LEDs (well, besides stern, but), so I started looking into what'd be the cheapest, easiest, least messy way to get some of those installed. Luckily when I designed my MPU I added a spare connector for the 3 extra unused GPIO the RPi had, and I made sure that one of those was the DMA pin that's commonly used to drive these LEDs from a Pi, so I think I can drive them. If not I can get a FadeCandy or something. It seems like a lot of people are just buying FAST's individual LED boards, but they're $1.50 each, and need wiring to connect them all. So I ordered 5 meters of addressable LED strip (150 LEDs) off eBay for $15, and some mounting clips for $5. I'm hoping I can just string this through the playfield to reach all my lights, and use the spare LEDs in between as free wiring (just don't turn them on). Maybe that'll work, or not. I can always find a use for 5M of LEDs at worst though.

    In the mean time I've also ordered a bunch of opaque white inserts from PBR, since they're cheap and I needed some other parts anyway. Hopefully they light up well. Maybe the opaque inserts will give it a more retro feel? Of course, I don't know if the random opaque triangle insert I had lying around is from PBR or not, so cutting (and thus, reassembling) the playfield needs to go on hold for now until the order arrives so I know whether I need to design a new router guide

    #207 38 days ago
    Quoted from zacaj:

    So I ordered 5 meters of addressable LED strip (150 LEDs) off eBay for $15, and some mounting clips for $5. I'm hoping I can just string this through the playfield to reach all my lights, and use the spare LEDs in between as free wiring (just don't turn them on). Maybe that'll work, or not.

    I know it will take longer, but I think it would be easier to deal with cutting your strip into individual LEDs and then just soldering stranded wire to them to daisy chain them together. It will be more flexible, and then you can number the LEDs sequentially instead of with gaps. That will make them easier to program. Also, not sure how much voltage drop you’ll get without doing this. But, if you cut them up, you will only need to wire through the LEDs you are using, so maybe voltage drop would be less of a concern. Again, not sure on that last point.

    #208 38 days ago

    they are pretty cheap to order individual ones as well, with 3 pads on each side for 5v, ground, and sig in and the same out to the next... yes soldering wires would be a bit of a pain but definitely an improvement overall over trying to deal with that chain of LEDs with no breaks and not super bendable.. plus you can design and print small mounts for each LED.

    Regarding the inserts-- it is unfortunate that all pinball life had was NOS. When I found this out I put an order in on remaining ones they had to make sure I had what I needed for my build... probably others did as well, and have some stockpile. Still had been planning on a few shapes that were already gone. You can probably get them from Mirco, but you'd have to order a bunch (group buy?) and timing is questionable there.. but he did say he could do a larger order of inserts a while back.

    I 3d printed all my inserts on my whitewood and am really happy with the results. I bet if you sent the models in to shapeways you could get really nice resin prints that would be somewhere between opaque and totally clear. Just throwing out some thoughts though..

    #209 38 days ago
    Quoted from Nokoro:

    and then you can number the LEDs sequentially instead of with gaps. That will make them easier to program.

    I really don't see how that would matter at all. Either way you're just setting the # for each light in your code, and then you're done.

    Quoted from Nokoro:

    Also, not sure how much voltage drop you’ll get without doing this. But, if you cut them up, you will only need to wire through the LEDs you are using, so maybe voltage drop would be less of a concern.

    Not sure either, but I'm half expecting to need a separate power supply for the LEDs anyway, and I know they sell power supplies that can handle the whole strip, while most of mine will be off, so I'm sure it will work out in some way.

    Quoted from Nokoro:

    and then just soldering stranded wire to them to daisy chain them together.

    Soldering 100+ connections directly on the playfield is *exactly* what I don't want to do. The less soldering on the playfield, the better. In retrospect I should have connectored even more things than I already did.

    Quoted from Mbecker:

    yes soldering wires would be a bit of a pain but definitely an improvement overall over trying to deal with that chain of LEDs with no breaks and not super bendable.

    I've gotten a few comments saying these aren't bendable, but the last time I had an LED strip it was so bendy I had problems keeping it from developing kinks and stuff. Maybe the new ones are different? I'll find out when it arrives today. There's no reason that I can't cut it in a few places and solder wires if needed (like to span large gaps, or if there's some turn that the strip absolutely can't make, but at least I won't be soldering it every time

    Quoted from Mbecker:

    I 3d printed all my inserts on my whitewood and am really happy with the results. I bet if you sent the models in to shapeways you could get really nice resin prints that would be somewhere between opaque and totally clear. Just throwing out some thoughts though..

    Interesting idea... I've got a reel of transparent plastic that I haven't tried out yet, curious to see how it does

    #210 38 days ago
    Quoted from zacaj:

    I really don't see how that would matter at all. Either way you're just setting the # for each light in your code, and then you're done.

    Maybe. I haven’t thought too hard about it. But suppose you want to turn them all on and there are 50 of them. It is very easy to do a loop from 1 to 50 and set them all to one color. Now, let’s suppose they are not numbered sequentially but instead they go 1, 5, 13, 17, .... you can’t turn them all on with a simple For loop. Perhaps you could store the numbers in an array and do it that way.

    I also am thinking about standard programming with the FAST LED library, and you could be doing this in some other way entirely that makes it easier.

    #211 38 days ago
    Quoted from zacaj:

    Soldering 100+ connections directly on the playfield is *exactly* what I don't want to do. The less soldering on the playfield, the better. In retrospect I should have connectored even more things than I already did.

    I was thinking you would solder them off the playfield using stranded wire and then just have a flexible daisy chain to mount onto the playfield. Admittedly, it would still take quite a bit of time. You could also do them in sections with connectors between the sections if you want to be able to easily remove sections without having to remove the whole.

    I don’t know. I’m just guessing that you may be asking for trouble in using all of the LED strip. I could be wrong.

    #212 38 days ago
    Quoted from Nokoro:

    Maybe. I haven’t thought too hard about it. But suppose you want to turn them all on and there are 50 of them. It is very easy to do a loop from 1 to 50 and set them all to one color. Now, let’s suppose they are not numbered sequentially but instead they go 1, 5, 13, 17, .... you can’t turn them all on with a simple For loop. Perhaps you could store the numbers in an array and do it that way.

    In my code, I have a list of all my lights (left orbit, right orbit, left standup, etc), and each one is mapped to a light number. So if I wanted to turn them all on I'd loop through my light list and just say "turn left orbit on", etc. Code will take care of mapping that to whatever lamp number it happens to be internally. I've never worked with FAST but the way you're explaining that sounds weird to me.

    #213 38 days ago
    Quoted from zacaj:

    In my code, I have a list of all my lights (left orbit, right orbit, left standup, etc), and each one is mapped to a light number. So if I wanted to turn them all on I'd loop through my light list and just say "turn left orbit on", etc. Code will take care of mapping that to whatever lamp number it happens to be internally. I've never worked with FAST but the way you're explaining that sounds weird to me.

    Ah ok. You’ll probably be all set then. Sorry about the confusion. Programming with the Arduino FAST LED library requires you to define the whole length of the chain and then each LED gets a number in sequence from 0 to the highest number in the chain. So, if you’re not using a bunch of LEDs in the middle, it can just require extra steps to do what you want.

    I think it will just come down to the flexibility of the strip. And if there are any issues with voltage drop. If there are, I have read that you can just “inject” voltage into the strip every couple of meters. But, I’ve never used enough to have to do that.

    #214 37 days ago

    Got the LED strip today. Was surprisingly easy to get working using adafruit's python library, worked the first time. Sadly I don't want to use the python library so I'll need to explore alternatives for integrating it with the rest of the code. I did some experiments with inserts. The circular ones lit up fine, but the larger ones like the arrows had a bit of coverage issues.
    It's hard to get good pictures of leds lit up, but

    Here's a clear triangle insertpasted_image (resized).png
    And here's an opaque one pasted_image (resized).png

    The clear one lit up a bit more evenly, but it didn't really look that good, you could clearly see the hot spot where the led was located. Surprisingly I think the opaque one looked better overall, and other colors seemed less washed out, which is nice since that's probably my only option...

    I then played around with led placement. Putting it more towards the center or ends didn't help much; the ends were still pretty dim. What did help was cutting a bigger hole. here's a single led, positioned similarly to the previous photo, but with almost all of the insert cut through the playfield instead of just one hole the size of the ledpasted_image (resized).png

    Probably good enough for me. I'll need to come up with a better way to cut those inner holes out, maybe another 3d printed router guide or something.

    I also played with two leds under the same insertpasted_image (resized).png

    This looks a bit better than just one, but not as good as I was expecting. The hot spots seem more pronounced. I'm not sure if I'll be able to position the strip to hold two leds inside the arrow or not (the clamps haven't arrived yet). This is where a lot of people seem to use multi-led boards, which might be worth it at least for the main shots? I'll have to look around

    #215 34 days ago

    Got the inserts from PBR, luckily they're the same size I was planning on, so I went ahead and cut all the arrows. pasted_image (resized).png
    Midway through I stumbled upon this technique, drilling three holes through first, then routing out the rest using the guide, which allows me to do all the routing in one pass (before it was three passes since I kept needing to stop and remove all the dust, etc). Then once it was cut and the insert test-fitted, I'd take the guide away and hand route between the three holes to leave a good open area in the center for the light.

    I was hoping that the circular inserts would match up with my forstner bits, but not all of them did. The smallest one (5/8?) are perfect, a nice snug fit, but the 3/4" are just loose enough that they'll fall out from gravity if there's any vibration. I'd like to get these all press-fit if possible so I don't have to worry about gluing them, so I'm going to try to make another router guide for the 3/4"

    1 week later
    #216 27 days ago

    Still working on a bunch of stuff so I don't actually have any top side pictures yet but..... light!pasted_image (resized).png

    The funny side effect of just trailing a light strip around the playfield is actually looks cool underneath too.

    I ended up using 126 LEDs worth of 30/m strip to reach all ~30 inserts on the playfield. Besides from a few places where I didn't plan for lights and had too many mechs in the way, it was pretty easy to mount the strip over the the holes. The budget pack of clips I found are a bit too big, so there's still a bit of back and forth play, but I don't think there'll be enough movement to cause any issues. pasted_image (resized).png

    I hooked the strip up to a dedicated 5v line+fuse coming from my ATX PSU, and it seems to be lighting fine with just that power coming in at one end (I was sorta expecting needing to provide more power somewhere along the length), even with all the lights on (which will never happen in practice). I had to make another little adapter board for my RPi-powered MPU to add in a 3V - 5V level shifter since the RPi only puts out 3V, but that seems to be fine for driving the whole strip, with an added 4ft of wire between the board and the beginning of the strip. Time will tell whether the electrical noise interferes with the lights once everything is playing, but hopefully they'll be okay (plus I plan to refresh them at 30Hz so any glitches should clear up quick).

    2 weeks later
    #217 7 days ago

    I'd been getting tired of using the projector for everything, and with the lights taking away half of its use, I figured it was a good time to get to work on the other part of that: the cards themselves. I'd realized early on that having all the cards just printed on the playfield, unchangeable, would have a possibility for people finding certain cards to go for every time which would make the game less fun, and having the projector able to deal a random set of cards onto the playfield solidified that worry. And then I found some cheap LCD displays on ali express while searching for the main screen I installed before pasted_image (resized).png
    Turns out they were slightly narrower than the spacing on the drop targets:pasted_image (resized).png
    Thanks to the provided example code it wasn't very hard to get one to display a card using a raspberry pipasted_image (resized).png
    But could you drive more than one easily? I made a little board that had a shift register on it to control the CS line of the display, so that I could theoretically wire up to 8 displays to itpasted_image (resized).png
    pasted_image (resized).png
    pasted_image (resized).png
    So far so good! Now, could I fit those displays in front of the targets? I did some measurements of the 3 bank in the middle and printed a bracket
    pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png
    And they fit! barely.pasted_image (resized).png
    I programmed a simple tcp server to control them, and hooked the 3 displays into the gameezgif-6-135b35652cf6.gif
    Alright, proof of concept complete. Time to go way too far with this.

    I'll need to custom make a bracket for every bank in the game, since they're all different manufacturers+sizes
    pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png
    And since I'm already getting into this, why not throw some other single displays around the playfield?
    pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png
    Now, can I actually drive them all? No. I lose signal around the fourth board. A lot of learning about signal integrity and I've got another version of my board with some termination resistors and a buffer chip to redrive the signal between each boardpasted_image (resized).png
    And with that, I can barely get all my displays to workezgif-6-41294cba7114.gif

    So I cross my fingers and cut a lot of big holes in my playfield. The amount of missing wood at this point is starting to concern me a bit, but it seems to hold up okay when the side rails are attached. pasted_image (resized).png
    Wiring them up is also fun. So many ribbon cables! Almost looks like a Spooky game...pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png
    And once I finally got the whole playfield reassembed...ezgif-6-4edc602f050f.gif
    Success!

    #218 7 days ago

    Super cool man!

    Gameplay wise, what are you thinking? Player gets two cards, then shoots for the next cards to attempt to get the best hand?

    #219 7 days ago

    Holy crap zacaj that is completely ridiculously cool!! And plain ridiculous too lol, haven’t seen anything quite like this.. those tft displays are rad! Great work

    #220 7 days ago

    This is wild. You’re a madman.

    #221 7 days ago

    Really cool concept. Looks great from the topside.

    #222 7 days ago
    Quoted from djreddog:

    Ante Up?
    All In?
    The Gambler?
    Table Stakes?
    Party Poker?
    Poker Party?
    The Pinnacle?
    Cashing In/Out?
    Final Table?
    The Showdown?
    Poker Casino?

    The gambler you can make it western themed (maverick-style)
    I also like Cashed In. You can have a money green themed and throw in some dollar bills, signs, etc.

    #223 7 days ago

    wow looks really cool

    #224 6 days ago

    That is insane. I mean this as a compliment.

    #225 6 days ago

    Whooooah, fabulous!

    #226 6 days ago

    Finally got the lights all working, and coded a simple attract mode animation for them. Originally I was trying to use an existing server I found for controlling ws2812 leds, but it kept crashing and wasn't very suited for pinball animations, so I coded a simple server myself which just handles a light being on, flashing, or pulsing, with settings for frequency and phase. I think I will need to tweak my colors a bit though. Not sure if it's because of the specific leds I got, or the way the opaque white inserts are coloring it, but everything feels a bit 'pastel'...

    ezgif-2-1d08d4f7b5a2.gif

    The downside to doing all your leds as one giant strip, I guess, is that if you want to change them later it's more complicated. And of course, once I got everything together here, I realized I'd forgotten to install a light for the lower playfield diverter. So I guess at some point I'll need to cut a bit from my left over led strip, attach that there, then cut my existing strip somewhere, and run the data line over to the new led and back again.

    I'm also thinking about maybe having a sort of 'wizard mode' accessible after you get all the main hands (at least straight, flush, full house, since technically those cover all the 'lower' hands too. maybe four of a kind, but it's hard to guarantee there's ever a deal with 4 of the same card), so it'd be nice to have a few more inserts in the barren center area between the screen+slings for that. Just when I thought I had all the lights/etc figured out!

    #227 6 days ago

    Those displays are sooooo cool!

    #228 6 days ago

    Amazing! Absolutely amazing!

    #229 1 day ago

    While I had the playfield apart, I also made a few layout tweaks
    pasted_image (resized).png
    This is the guide for the upper left flipper. Old guide on the bottom. It had a split in it for a standup, but it turns out the flipper can't hit that angle. No matter how I aligned the eject plunger, I couldn't get a clean feed past that gap. So I made a new, one piece guide and installed it. Now the ball comes down nice and smooth to the flipper. Almost too fast, to be honest. I need to play with that mech a bit, see if I can get it to give a slower kick.pasted_image (resized).png

    pasted_image (resized).png
    A bit hard to see here, but I added slots for adjusting the height of the left outlane posts. Eventually I'd like these to be slots in the wood too, with machine screw posts, so they can be precision adjusted, but right now the area underneath is too messy to safely install that.

    pasted_image (resized).png
    The center post on the right side got a horizontal cut, since it can't really be moved vertically due to the feed from the shooter lane. Also replaced the upper end of the shooter/outlane divider rail with two mini posts. I'm not sure how that will affect the play in that area, but hopefully it does something. Previously it didn't seem like there was much to 'do' over there. You'd just watch the ball balance on the center post and fall one way or another, and any ball hitting the wood rail would just die and go down the outlane. So I'll see how this goes.

    Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
    $ 30.00
    Playfield - Other
    YouBentMyWookie
    $ 159.99
    Lighting - Other
    Lighted Pinball Mods
    $ 48.00
    Cabinet - Other
    ModFather Pinball Mods
    $ 104.00
    Boards
    nvram.weebly.com
    From: $ 9.99
    Eproms
    Matt's Basement Arcade
    $ 229.99
    $ 6.00
    Electronics
    Yorktown Arcade Supply
    $ 6,295.00
    Pinball Machine
    Nitro Pinball Shop
    From: $ 6.00
    Cabinet Parts
    Space Coast Pinball
    $ 13.00
    $ 999.00
    $ 21.00
    Electronics
    Yorktown Arcade Supply
    From: $ 12.99
    Eproms
    Matt's Basement Arcade
    $ 7.00
    $ 5.00
    Cabinet - Other
    Pin Monk
    From: $ 149.00
    Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
    Sparky Pinball
    $ 1,199.00
    Flipper Parts
    Mircoplayfields
    $ 29.90
    Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
    The MOD Couple
    $ 209.00
    Gameroom - Decorations
    Lit Frames
    $ 12.95
    $ 79.99
    Cabinet - Shooter Rods
    Lighted Pinball Mods
    $ 14.99
    Hardware
    Chroma Pinball
    $ 49.00
    Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
    The MOD Couple
    $ 32.00
    Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
    The MOD Couple
    $ 19.95
    Playfield - Protection
    SilverBall Designs
    $ 10.00
    Tools
    Granby Games
    $ 89.99
    $ 126.95
    Cabinet - Shooter Rods
    Super Skill Shot Shop
    $ 44.95
    Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
    PinBoss Mods
    From: $ 7.99
    Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
    Medisinyl Mods
    There are 229 posts in this topic. You are on page 5 of 5.

    Hey there! Got a moment?

    Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside