Quoted from Tallon:

I have done a couple sets of pinball pimp stencils. Just follow the instructions on your paint. Pull the stencil while the paint is still in the flash period or wait for the flash time and hit a second coat then peal the vinyl while it’s in the flash time. Let it fully cure. Light sand to give it some bite for the next color and knock down any high edges. Tack the cabinet and apply next layer of vinyl. Rinse and repeat til you ready for clear or done. I have always used rattle cans.

Quoted from Tallon:

To strip it I used 80 grit on a vac system (lead paint and all) then worked up to 220. bondo and fill cracks. Then finish sand at 300. Priming was 12 cans as the wood was old and soaked a ton of paint. Then 6 cans of white for base coat and averaged 2 cans per layer. Head was about half again those numbers. The more time you prep, the less time you have to fix stuff. I was using rustolium 2x paints. Krylon didn’t seem to cover as well on another project

Quoted from eh97ac:

Molotow and Ironlak cans, they will change your life.

Quoted from Dono:

I'm doing a Mata Hari repaint with the Pimp's stencils...
Primed, painted yellow basecoat with Molotow Signal yellow... let dry 3 days, applied 1st overlay color (signal red Molotow), worked perfectly. Let dry two days... applied the black to one side of the head (Molotow black)...
Uh Oh... as I pulled the stencil, there were areas that left stencil adhesive residue, and it was an absolute bitch to remove and not hose the paint job... could this have been caused by the temp/humidity (it was early 80s, with 85% humidity) at application time?

Quoted from Dono:

Interesting... could you expand a little on the process for using duct tape to remove the residue?

Quoted from Dono:

Thanks for the detail, exactly what I needed!

Quoted from Dono:

The duct tape trick worked somewhat, so thank you for the tip. However I had to use Goo Gone on a Q-tip, sprinkled white flour and used a finger to rub and roll the flour through the stickiness to remove it... then followed up with a damp towel with a diluted dish soap/water solution to remove any remaining flour/residue material.
BTW, didn't have an issue with the black color applied on the opposite side of the head yesterday... temp and humidity at 74 deg w/ 75% humidity at application time... problematic application done earlier - temp in the mid-80s w/85% humidity.

Quoted from Dono:

Right side completed today... registration was a little off for some reason, but its minor, so I'm all good with the results... Molotow is super easy to work with, so much better than Rustoleum and Krylon sprays. No matter how much I tried to spray just enough to cover, there is still a noticeable bump at each color layer... Molotow is a thick paint, and this coupled with the fact that I'm using spray cans and adhesive stencils makes any attempt at slight overspray/no color layer differences felt on cabinet virtually impossible... still am very happy with the results.
Also happy that this paint is like an eggshell/satin finish, perfect IMO for EM repaints... would also look incredible under a thin clearcoat as well.[quoted image][quoted image]