(Topic ID: 159700)

Pinball Missing WPC CPU board Issue? - The Machine Bride of Pinbot

By sbjmg

6 years ago


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  • 16 posts
  • 10 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 years ago by EvanDickson
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TMBOP_WPC_CPU_(resized).jpg

#1 6 years ago

Just got bit by the Pinball bug and bought two machines a working JD and TMBOP with issues. When I turn the TMBOP on it give me a Pinball Missing error message and it will not function, meaning flippers wont function and a ball wont load.

I opened it up and put it on test mode, and most of the switches do not work, ball troughs, lanes, etc... I check the associated fuse and they seem fine (pulled them and used my multimeter). I then look at the WPC CPU board since the machine tells me the wires are on J207 and J209. Go figure, J209 is unplugged but I don't even see a cable for it. What I do see is a J208 labeled cable connected to J208. J206 is also not plugged (I don't see the cables). So 207 and 208 are plugged in and 206 and 209 are not plugged. To further complicate things, the batteries are unplugged, and it seems they have leaked. One of the posts on B3 have broken off. It seems the liquids have dripped on the R31-R34 as well as on U19 which from what I can tell is relevant to the switches.

I have attached a picture and a link to the WPC schematics.

Please help?

Looks like since I have been here less than 2 days I can not post the schematic. If you copy the below into google you will find the chart.

Williams_The_Machine_Bride_of_Pinbot_Tech_Chart.pdf

Thanks again!

TMBOP_WPC_CPU_(resized).jpg

#2 6 years ago

You have to repair that acid damage.

#3 6 years ago

Pinball missing means literally there is a pinball missing. Or more than 1. There should be 4 balls in the machine, if you have less than this you need to top it up.

That battery holder is nasty. You'll either want to replace it with an off-board battery holder. If you have the right tools and knowledge, it would be even better to get rid of the battery pack entirely and install NVRAM (search on here for Andrew, pinside name Barakandl, he can set you up).

Is there any other acid leakage / damage on the CPU? U19 looks awful, and will need replacement. U16 looks pretty sketchy too. Best to cut out the old chips, then add sockets, then you can just press the new chips into the sockets. Parts are available from Ed at Great Plains Electronics. Read up on the pinwiki guides for WPC maintenance and troubleshooting. It looks like some of the resistors in the area are pretty sketchy too.

Something's not kosher at W16, W17 either. Not sure what these jumpers do or how they should be set, but it looks like something ain't quite right.

Check the installed fuses vs the manual and make sure they are the correct fuses, if someone let the battery pack get that bad, it would not be surprising if they took shortcuts in their pinball maintenance.

Not sure what you mean about the wires and connectors. This one is going to be a work in progress for you, but you're in the right place.

#4 6 years ago
Quoted from EvanDickson:

There should be 4 balls in the machine, if you have less than this you need to top it up.

Only 3 are used in Bride.

#5 6 years ago

Thanks for the replies so far. In case it makes a difference the machine is originally from Germany or at least it was imported from there. There is only one coin slot in the front. I did check the two fuses related to the switches I mentioned, they were the correct size. In regards to cutting out U19 what would I do that with? Dremel? Is the purpose of cutting out so that I dont have to remove the board and I can just solder from the front?

Lastly can I solder these things with my cheap $4 soldering iron or do I need some fancy rig?

Thanks again, I am really a novice when it comes to this.

#6 6 years ago
Quoted from sbjmg:

Lastly can I solder these things with my cheap $4 soldering iron or do I need some fancy rig?

I would not work on a board with your $4 iron. It will run way too hot and lift traces. That being said, if you are careful you should be able to solder the two wires that you would need to put in a remote battery holder. The tricky part will be removing the old one and cleaning up any corrosion.

#7 6 years ago
Quoted from sbjmg:

I am really a novice when it comes to this.

You might consider sending your board to a professional and get in done right. That board has damage beyond your repair skills. You could easily make it a lot worse.

John Wart Jr, Chris Hibler, Borygard, all post on Pinside and can repair this.

LTG : )

#8 6 years ago
Quoted from sbjmg:

In regards to cutting out U19 what would I do that with? Dremel? Is the purpose of cutting out so that I dont have to remove the board and I can just solder from the front?
Lastly can I solder these things with my cheap $4 soldering iron or do I need some fancy rig?
Thanks again, I am really a novice when it comes to this.

Whoa, whoa, hang on there.

If you don't have the proper tools/know-how to do board work, it's probably best that you send it out for repairs. It sounds like this is a bit outside of your realm of experience.

A desoldering vacuum pump is necessary for removing components and chips (such as the FR300), and a temperature controlled soldering iron is needed for soldering. These boards are delicate and a cheap soldering iron like that will burn and ruin it.

#9 6 years ago

Agreed. If you think a dremel tool seems like a good idea, stop. Board needs to be repaired by a pro.

#10 6 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

You might consider sending your board to a professional and get in done right. That board has damage beyond your repair skills. You could easily make it a lot worse.

+1

Also your switch issues and ball missing are very likely tied to the acid damage. You need someone that knows what they are doing, or buy a new used board and sell your bad one to offset costs.

#11 6 years ago

Thanks guys. I would like to fix this myself if possible. I brought up the dremel thing as someone mentioned the word "cut". I just ordered a nice soldering gun that has temp control and esd protection (I was sick of my old iron anyways). I would like to learn how to do these things as that is part of the fun for me. Would like to avoid a huge price tag with multiple items.

#12 6 years ago
Quoted from sbjmg:

I would like to learn how to do these things as that is part of the fun for me.

Get an old board to practice on.

LTG : )

#13 6 years ago

The U19 area is going to need professional repair as the acid will have damaged the thru holes on that part for sure

#14 6 years ago

Also if you are trying to repair acid damage, there are a few threads that get into gory detail, many many many pages long.

The board is not the easiest to fix even if you know what you are doing.

#15 6 years ago

Yep, this is not the board you really want to mess with on your first try.

Early solid state boards are probably better candidates to get your feet wet.

If you want to do *any* board work, you really need a desoldering iron as well to be effective and to avoid damaging boards.

#16 6 years ago
Quoted from schudel5:

Only 3 are used in Bride.

Oops. I was quoting the manual that lists a "install 4 balls" sticker. Manuals are pretty hit and miss for accuracy on stuff like that, I definitely defer to you as you have one in your collection.

Fun fact, I placed an order with GPE this weekend to rebuilt a 7 opto board, a 10 opto board, and a bunch of other stuff. There was a crazy number of wrong specs on parts, I found I had to go to the board and double check all the parts listed because a lot were listed incorrectly.

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