You have to repair that acid damage.

Pinball missing means literally there is a pinball missing. Or more than 1. There should be 4 balls in the machine, if you have less than this you need to top it up.

That battery holder is nasty. You'll either want to replace it with an off-board battery holder. If you have the right tools and knowledge, it would be even better to get rid of the battery pack entirely and install NVRAM (search on here for Andrew, pinside name Barakandl, he can set you up).

Is there any other acid leakage / damage on the CPU? U19 looks awful, and will need replacement. U16 looks pretty sketchy too. Best to cut out the old chips, then add sockets, then you can just press the new chips into the sockets. Parts are available from Ed at Great Plains Electronics. Read up on the pinwiki guides for WPC maintenance and troubleshooting. It looks like some of the resistors in the area are pretty sketchy too.

Something's not kosher at W16, W17 either. Not sure what these jumpers do or how they should be set, but it looks like something ain't quite right.

Check the installed fuses vs the manual and make sure they are the correct fuses, if someone let the battery pack get that bad, it would not be surprising if they took shortcuts in their pinball maintenance.

Not sure what you mean about the wires and connectors. This one is going to be a work in progress for you, but you're in the right place.

Only 3 are used in Bride.

I would not work on a board with your $4 iron. It will run way too hot and lift traces. That being said, if you are careful you should be able to solder the two wires that you would need to put in a remote battery holder. The tricky part will be removing the old one and cleaning up any corrosion.

You might consider sending your board to a professional and get in done right. That board has damage beyond your repair skills. You could easily make it a lot worse.

John Wart Jr, Chris Hibler, Borygard, all post on Pinside and can repair this.

LTG : )

Whoa, whoa, hang on there.

If you don't have the proper tools/know-how to do board work, it's probably best that you send it out for repairs. It sounds like this is a bit outside of your realm of experience.

A desoldering vacuum pump is necessary for removing components and chips (such as the FR300), and a temperature controlled soldering iron is needed for soldering. These boards are delicate and a cheap soldering iron like that will burn and ruin it.

Agreed. If you think a dremel tool seems like a good idea, stop. Board needs to be repaired by a pro.

+1

Also your switch issues and ball missing are very likely tied to the acid damage. You need someone that knows what they are doing, or buy a new used board and sell your bad one to offset costs.

Get an old board to practice on.

LTG : )

The U19 area is going to need professional repair as the acid will have damaged the thru holes on that part for sure

Also if you are trying to repair acid damage, there are a few threads that get into gory detail, many many many pages long.

The board is not the easiest to fix even if you know what you are doing.

Yep, this is not the board you really want to mess with on your first try.

Early solid state boards are probably better candidates to get your feet wet.

If you want to do *any* board work, you really need a desoldering iron as well to be effective and to avoid damaging boards.

Oops. I was quoting the manual that lists a "install 4 balls" sticker. Manuals are pretty hit and miss for accuracy on stuff like that, I definitely defer to you as you have one in your collection.

Fun fact, I placed an order with GPE this weekend to rebuilt a 7 opto board, a 10 opto board, and a bunch of other stuff. There was a crazy number of wrong specs on parts, I found I had to go to the board and double check all the parts listed because a lot were listed incorrectly.