Anyone know if replacement curtain pieces are available for the stage? I've poked around the net but didn't find any.

Thanks for the tips. I don't have the machine yet, just wondering what I'm in for as it has some small issues. I'll probably be back for some fix advice as I think I'll pick it up.

It looks like that Ebay one has the left-side curtain broken, same problem I'm told on my purchase candidate. Has anyone fixed a breakage like this? Or is only option to get new? Anyone know what to expect to pay for a set?

curtain-broken_(resized).jpg

Nice work! I have some polycarbonate that I intended to use for other plastic replacements. I'm curious what technique / tools you used to cut out the curtains? I've heard so many different things and various problems, I'm not sure what approach to try cutting the polycarbonate into the right shape. But your success is motivating me to try this. Is your replacement still in your machine, holding up? Also, do you remember what thickness you used? Same as the original pieces, or did you go thicker? I have some .062" and .093".

How about those polycarbonate repro's? Want to put the NOS in, and sell those repro's?

I haven't seen the candidate machine, just told that piece was broken. So I'm not sure all the pieces are there, but if they are, I'll give the "weld" a try, thanks. The pic I posted was the one from parts list on Ebay, I'm assuming the breakage is likely the same, and with luck, both pieces still in the machine and I can fix them.

I appreciate the detailed description, and your verification that this is a good approach.

Any thoughts on market price for Pinball Magic? Let's say great "player's" condition. It seems this is often compared to ToM and suggestions are that it should go for around 2K less. Is that still a good barometer? I haven't seen many of these trade hands, but most recent listing I found was asking 4K.

That seems like a reasonable deal you gave someone. I just saw my candidate machine, and it was way rougher than I expected. It's still with the original owner, but was in the office and got a lot of play. It looks like it was never cleaned or balls replaced. Lots of black rubber rubbed all over, coil dust all over playfield, rusty scratched up balls, damaged mylar, broken display (seems it was tested with a replacement panel and that wasn't the issue). I poked around the net wondering i you can get the display board, but only found as-is ones. I couldn't get close enough to his desired price. Since the display was out, I couldn't check any diagnostics, and it was clear there were numerous switch issues. I could verify the main tricks, wand, levitation were working.

I had first crack at the deal, and now it's on Craigslist cause I didn't want to go higher than low 2s.

portland.craigslist.org link

The funniest part of the ad is:

"I will take the time and do all the repairs myself and just keep it for myself."

But in the life of the machine, it appears he could never bother to wipe the playfield at all, change any rubber, or put replacement balls in, but now he's going to do all the repairs himself. LOL.

Given how rough the balls were and the mylar already wore through in a couple of spots, that mylar is in poor shape everywhere and needs to be removed. That was the one thing that saved this game, the mylar prevented the balls from wearing the playfield out.

If that's true, it'll be gone in short order, as he offered it to me at 2.9K. Let's see how long the ads are up...

Is the board available? I couldn't find any that are not unknown/as-is condition. I'm not familiar with how the display is driven on Capcom, but presumably, worst case you would need a new/fix one of these, that is described as "these are returned boards back to capcom , might have faults "

http://www.pinballspareparts.com.au/a0015402.html

I also initially thought 3K is what I would offer, and that's what I told him would probably be the ball park ahead of time. Then I saw it and learned the display is out (and it's not just the panel), and the other issues, so I only felt comfortable offering 2200.

10 days, and re-posted, with a funny salutation to boot - is he appreciative or not? I'm considering offering $2501. Ha. I figured this wouldn't move at 3K. Anything in this locale posted at market value moves quickly.

Please don't offer me $2,000 or $2,500. Just don't. Thanks for your consideration! I appreciate the interest and responses I have been getting.

portland.craigslist.org link

Did you give him a quote to get it into that fantastic shape? We all know he's not going to do it himself...

When I offered him 2K, he did mention the tech that examined it also offered exactly the same. Maybe you are forgetting how rough it actually is? Granted you have to make some money after you fix it up, but the only one that's going to offer significantly more is someone who sees it as a labor of love and is going to keep the machine. Wait long enough, and he may get lucky and find that special buyer.

PS: I bought your Fire! and Black Knight at PRGE last year, still enjoying them.

Any recommendations for cleaning / refreshing the look of the levitating ball? Mine doesn't match the shiny balls I put in very well.

...

I just used Simple Green, which worked alright. I wasn't sure if it was metal or plastic with paint that might come off, but I guess it is metal.

Ball eject solenoid in trough is acting funny. At ball start, I hear it energize several times but the plunger isn't moving, then finally it works after about 3 or 4 tries. If I run the solenoid test, it works perfectly every time. If I run the clear balls test, it tries / energizes but never does anything, until it finally says problem in ball trough. Diagnostic says solenoid voltage is 77V, only -1/-2%. Hidden ball feature always shows correct locations: optos/switches working.

What's the difference between the solenoid test that works every time and the clear balls test that never works? Any ideas what's going on with the misfires?

After reading some docs, just realized mine is a prototype, with chrome siderails and PCBs with alternate labeling. CPU and Sound board has some wire jumpering, maybe standard for prototype?

ROM is 1.02. Looks like 1.12 is latest? I better upgrade, wonder what has changed...

Yeah, I can post some, but from what I've read, I think the rails are the only visual difference.

Other stuff about prototypes:

Serial: PB1000001 - PB1000040, PB0001031 - PB0001071

DMD board has integrated power supply rather than separate small power board

Wire jumpers on CPU and sound board. It actually looks like large areas of my boards were hand populated.

PCBs are compatible with production versions, but connectors and fuses are not labelled sequentially and have different part #s. Can someone post the part#s for their PCBs? Would like to verify this. I'm not at home right now.

Maybe someone with a production machine can comment if that's the format for production machines. Maybe check for some of the other signs of prototype. I haven't found the PCB part #s for a production machine, but from what I read they should be different than a prototype. Mine which seems to be a prototype has these PN:

CPU A0015401, Driver A0015103, Power A0015202, Sound A0015000

Also, prototypes don't seem to have the mini-power board for the DMD next to the CPU, check for that.

I wasn't aware of some of those, I'll have to take a closer look at mine. I also don't have PCB backbox light board, but didn't know production machines did.

Two things I find most interesting are a handwritten label on the inside of the coin door indicating the machine as #5 prototype and the fact that the labels on many of the ROMs and the ASIC in the backbox are handwritten and dated July & August of 1995 and they are all just titled Magic, not Pinball Magic.

Those are interesting, check your PCB part #s, curious if they match mine.

Yours has most of the signs of being a prototype if not something earlier (the name and model and hand writing and 7/6/95 suggest that). It's annoying that your full backbox label is obscured by poor placement of the FCC Notice label. Can you read through that? It's covering the "Date of Manufacture" which might be additional evidence.

The PCBs normally have a sticker label by the CAPCOM logo: yours seem to be missing. I also have one in the bottom left corner of the lamp board, do you have one there?

I haven't heard of samples for Pinball Magic. What are the characteristics of a sample? What makes it a sample? As far as I know, Capcom didn't use that terminology.

I'm starting to think that what Capcom called prototypes are actually what we generally think of as samples and what he has is actually a "real" prototype. So if that's what you mean, I agree...

Don't forget to vote for PM again in the new 2019 ColorDMD vote. Maybe with an earlier start we can get everyone on board!

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/2019-which-colordmds-do-you-want-poll-included

Has anyone tried fitting LCD ColorDMD? I know the issue is physical compatibility, but how bad is it: would a workaround be possible, or is it near impossible?

My plunger doesn't slide as freely as I like. I was going to replace the plunger sleeve, but couldn't remove whatever's in the housing: seems like a brass sleeve but flanged on both sides. What's up with that? Are these removable? I tried, but they seem pretty permanent.

Yeah, tried cleaning. But there is a black mark/stain that doesn't go away, wonder if the plunger just needs replacing.

Anyone know the proper shooter springs for PM? Inner and outer? Those seem pretty worn too.

Seems like it was the housing. I cleaned both thoroughly again, but switched the housing with my Breakshot. It's much better now. I also put the strongest spring I had on, but I think the plunge is a little violent now. Still doesn't make it around the loop, but think that's the angle of the habittrail I need to adjust now.

Anyone know a close color match for the cabinet purple? I want to do some touch up on the head.

I meant the playfield orbit, but this is probably worth looking at too, all of this factors into the launch. On a good plunge that leaves the habittrail smoothly, when it reaches the orbit, the ball looses most of it's energy bouncing back and forth on the ball guides rather than proceeding through the orbit. I tried adjusting the angle already, may have to bend the habittrail.

I got the plunge-to-orbit shot working pretty consistently if not totally smoothly. It took a lot of adjustments: strong right plunger spring, weak right recoil spring (not a new one), bending the habittrail a little wider, and repositioning the habittrail exit with the mounting screws.

I decided to pick up some acrylic paint to experiment. I found Americana's Dioxazine Purple is a pretty close match. I redid the whole bottom front-facing trim. It's a little flat, but I can't even notice the difference from playing position.

I since did the whole front-facing trim, so it's difficult to see the difference, tried to get a shot showing the inside surface that's original.

Looks like I missed a spot at the top left where you can see it's shiny. The clear's a good thought, think I'll do that after giving it one more coat.

TouchUp1 (resized).jpg
Touchup2 (resized).jpg