Hey all. Just joined the club. Read a couple of the 1st and couple of the last pages so far. Was planning on reading all 35 pages but failed lol.

So far game was resetting often and I have no display.

I reflowed all caps on power supply and the 2 headers for the 5v line and has not reset yet but I haven't tested that much and expect it to happen again but I can at least boot the game up and test further for now.

One diode tested bad on display power supply so just ordering some parts to rebuild display power supply so that I can access and see diagnostics. Did any of you do the service bulletin upgrade on the display power board. I'm planning on it.

Anyways that is where I am for now. Challenging to move forward with no display but I will see what I can do. See what parts I will need at least.

I have noticed after the machine has been turned on for about 2 minutes the stage starts going crazy. Opening and closing and the magic ball moving. Guessing flaky opto maybe? Haven't dug into this yet but I think that will be my next step. Sounds like this stage is a common issue. Any suggestions on what to look for? Should I just remove the whole assembly and take a good look?

Also wondering what roms you guys are running or recommend?

Oh ya, in the early thread pages LED's are a no no or you lose the fading effect. Seems that an OCD board is now available so do you recommend LED's now with the OCD board or stay incandescent?

I also talked to Randy last night and seems the new Color DMD Capcom LCD's are not slimmer but they moved the placement of the board so that they fit better now so no modifying needed. Anyone install one of these newer designs? Any issues at all?

Excited to join the club! This will likely be one of the most challenging shop jobs it sounds like but looking forward to it! I will add a few pics and let me know if anything jumps out at you.

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Thanks!!! I have color dmd on my other pins that allow it so don't see why this one shouldn't get the treatment!! Hurts every time though being in Canada especially with the dollar even worse these days! But soooo worth it!

Is the match magicians color thing supposed to be a ball or shaft?

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Ok cool. I was originally thinking that my ball was broken off so started looking for a new one then I discovered the shaft option for sale as well so then I wondered if the shaft was correct or an option? What is the pic on the left for then do we think? Another capcom game?

Ah ok cool thanks!

Oh wow cool. I actually did reach out earlier this week. I may try PSPA. I think that is where I got the pic from.

Thanks for the feedback!

If you go OCD and LED do you still get the cool fading effects?

I dug into the stage assembly last night and there is a set of optos. I reflowed them and that seems so have solved the issue I was having!!!

I also replaced the bad diode on the display power board and got the display working!! I can see diagnostics now

Next issue is that my wand is not working properly. Moves back and forth in test but not in game and starts on the right side so balls dont lock.

Very cool! Great contribution to the community!

I thought GI were all controlled and there is technically no GI in the game? The thought of tweaking an OCD board scares me I'm not that tecky. I may stick to incandescent on this one.

Not sure if it knows but it does move left and right. I will have to test it again. Maybe I will take a video. It moves weird too. Slow one way and super fast the other.

Haha nice. That would be a fun experience!

Ahh yes! "GI"

So my issue is that the wand stops in the wrong place often. (right of the middle usually, just before the critics). In this position you cant lock a ball to the left and the ball cant divert to the right either as the balls path is blocked when the wand is in this position.

I discovered in wand test that when the wand is in a resting position that both left and right wand switches are closed which is not correct. I have to somehow align things so that the flat spot (see video) is always at the left or right when in a resting position to that only left or right switch is closed. Just not sure how yet.

Thanks Chris!

Ahh very cool. I never noticed that thanks. I took another look and it is pretty darn close but I will likely try to take the whole mech apart today and see if I can adjust it better.

Has anyone tried to drill out, open up and clean the inside of these gear boxes?

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Ahh I guess that could be the issue as well. I will check that too. Thanks and good eye!

I noticed someone riveted/repaired my stage doors. They don't seem to be available anymore. They are just plastics like the rest in the game so I wonder why nobody is making repros of these. This fix they did is working for now but would be nice to get this back to original one day.

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Currently running old code but have the latest roms on order!

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Ahh good to know! I turn that off on all my games but hadnt tried yet on PM.

Oh ya probably if you are Brian Thanks!

Hmmmm. Just noticed this bracket hole appears to we worn. Could be part of my problem.

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Haha nice! How do you know if the elevator is not going to the correct height? Oh wow that is cool. Just watched another mini youtube doc on Gene yesterday. So much history there!

Ok I see. Mine is working then but still will be updating to the latest roms!

I never met him. Wish I could go back in time and hit up some of the old school expos for sure!

Wow what a PITA for it to only be code. That stuff drive me bonkers lol!

So upon closer inspection that area is factory and not wear. The wand motor works fine out of the machine but still thinking either software or an alignment issue since both left and right motor switches are closed at the same time most of the time in wand test. Also if the wand starts at the right then it does not seem to move over to the left for locking balls. The wand does move in gameplay from time to time but not seemingly correctly.

Haha. My favorite (and probably everyones) is dropping a small part and then having to look for an hour to find it!!!

Haha yep!

Yes I hope so! Would be nice!

Ahh I see. Yes that would be!

While waiting for roms....

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Haha that is the 1st area I cleaned actually!!!!!! Much better. Now I just need a new clear ball!

Sweet thanks so much for the tip! That was a pain to remove especially with the little lamp pbc in the way!

LOL wow! Crazy.

What are the chances of you making more of your nice balls?

So when you guys pull out the Playfield all the way what are you actually resting it on? In the video posted elsewhere in this forum he mentioned that he thought the Playfield rested on the little side metal pieces but mine are floating and not touching anything. My Playfield actually really looks like it is resting on the two plastic wire bundle holders but I let this coil bracket rest on this tin to relieve a bit of that pressure. How are you guys propping up your Playfield when you pull it all the way out?

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Yes it is nice! Just cleaned up the back of the cabinet last night. So easy to access!

Just realized I am missing this post. Do you guys still have it on yours? Should I bother replacing it or is it just going to break off again?

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Must be to protect bulbs. I'll stick a post in there!

OK cool thanks. Didn't have correct post but this should work!

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Id leave it on and if either switch does not work then just clip it.

Try clipping the leg of the resistor and see if anything changes. I have also changed some of the wiring on my kicker assembly switches. A couple broken leaf switch tabs, and they used such thin and short wires so I upgraded the gauge and made them longer.

Check the leaf switch tabs. On my PM sling one was broken off the leaf switch but still secure in the switch stack so you could not even see the break. Once I took apart the stack the tab detached from the stack but was still soldered fine to the wire. Deceptive!!!

Yes could be a break in the thin wire somewhere. Not a big fan of that wire either.

For the optos I would put back in switch test and wiggle the associated wires around, and wiggle the optos themselves and see if the switch registers. I had to reflow those optos as mine was not operating properly and that solved the issue for me.

That is frustrating for sure! I had 4 GI out on my PM and turned out to be a detached wire on the other side of the playfield. Yours sounds more connector related though. Maybe the wire harness snagged on the transformer when lifting up and down the playfield.

Still trying to fix my wand issue now that my machine is back together.

Both the stage motor and the wand motor are the same. Part number mr00106.

I noticed on a photo online that there is a resistor across the tabs of both switches.

Mine does not have the resistors. I was wondering if someone could take a look and let me know if you have resistors across your switch tabs on either motor.
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Thanks Chris. Its weird with all of these resistors on switches these days lol.

Dont think so. I think I have heard of this issue before.

Had my playfield up! Sounds like something (switch or lamp socket) may be shorted. Changed the wires on my switches to thicker gauge so wire color may differ. than yours.
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Finally resolved my wand issue! Someone F***ed with the motor at some point and compared to the other motor in the game with the same part number, this motor runs faster and in the opposite direction lol. I took the good motor and stuck it in the wand assembly and boom! Seen the wand work properly for the 1st time last night. This mech must have not worked for many many years.

Took a video of the process just incase it is helpful for someone in the future.

I learned that you can remove and adjust the motor crank! Was hoping that they just put it back in the wrong position and I would just adjust it properly but issue was bigger than that. Time to order a new motor! Also, my work was interrupted last night by a crazy ass hail storm! Pic attached for fun!

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Yes thanks. I didn't realize it actually came off!

Very cool. Cant wait to get my new motor and actually be able to put the machine on legs and give it a try.

I read about that delay in this thread somewhere and it said it was normal. Mine has this delay as well. Pretty sure that is just normal.

Correct.

Both work yes.

I will add another pic. bobukcat said it well. I normally use continuity test so I can hear the meter beep when contact is made but Ohm test may be a better test.

Hey Bob. Is there much difference in using ohm vs continuity (beep) setting for this test?

Here is the other pic...

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Awesome, thanks for the explanation!

Yes, where did you get those side blades? They are nice!

Glad you got it working!!! Nice work.

Looks amazing man so I had to do a low budget version tonight

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Waiting for parts from Australia but cool idea!

Damn! Just ordered one from PSPA last week

Anyone have any of these available by any chance? Stage door opening pin. I need 2.

https://www.pinballspareparts.com.au/sm00126.html

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Looks amazing. Good thing my basement does not allow for toppers. Saves me like $20K lol!!!!

I had some stage doors made from a scan of a NOS set. The art is darker and the material is a bit thicker. The overall size seems perfect compared to the originals. I wont know if they work until I get my parts from Australia as I was missing pretty much all of the mounting hardware.

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If you hold them up to the light then the repro is actually a bit lighter. (original on the right) in this pic.

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Thanks, they turned out ok!

Just took a video of me testing them out in the stage mech.

Thanks Chris!

I have 5 extra sets so if anyone is interested in a back up set for when theirs inevitably breaks then let me know. $40USD shipping included for a set.

3 optos in the trunk. one screw on each side of the trunk will gain you access. Check them in switch test for starters.

I would start with reflowing the solder on the suspected opto set.

Good to know thanks! Just waiting on parts from your home country actually Then I will be able to install! What do you think they were jamming on? I was thinking at 1st maybe the plastics were rubbing on the playfield when installed but took another look and that does not appear to be possible. Odd!

I have been though every mech, nook and cranny on mine and havent seen those anywhere.

Glad you found your answer. Never seen them on any game before. Not my Airborne either. I didn't actually look though lol, I was just recalling from when I was tearing the machine apart. I have pretty much removed and repaired/rebuilt every mech on the machine and studied the schematics lots.

Cool. Can you post a pic or two? Some glossy clear coat should solve the flat appearance.

Looks good! I like.

Still have 4 sets of Stage Doors left if anyone wants. $30USD shipping included.

On a side note: I still haven't got my parts from Pinball Spare Parts Australia which was shipped April 9th. I emailed PSPA a couple weeks ago but did not get a response. Anyone else order from them recently?

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2 sets of repro doors left. For more details on these just scroll back a few pages. Thanks, Mike

Scroll back 5 posts and you see that sadly I am still waiting for my parts to arrive from Australia so haven't been able to fit and test in my machine yet. Only have tested outside the machine in the stage mech. (I posted a video of this test maybe a page or 2 back). I ordered my parts about 3 months ago

oops

Thanks for the update Mark! Much appreciated. More Capcom parts...sweet!

Cool! What else capcom you have laying around?

I agree that replacing the post with just a regular old Bally Williams post should suffice. It's only purpose is to host a post sleeve and if any generic post is serving that purpose then you are good to go.

My question is what flipper power do you guys have your Pinball Magic set to? Been working on my machine on and off for about a year and after solving the last major issue I finally just tonight got it on legs and starting to play test it really for the first time. This is a real special game and can't wait to explore the rules once I get it at 100%. Almost there.

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Does anyone have any extra coil stops they would sell? A-00378

PPSA is out of stock

I think I read that the ones posted at marco are not what you get when you order them?

Or are you just doing the data east coil stops with the washers under them to adjust for the height difference?

Between the 2 flipper mechs on the machine and the 2 extra mechs I bought I have only 1 original coil stop.

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So I finally installed the stage doors I had made. They work great. See video. The issue I had is that due to the thickness of the repro doors the original hardware will not fit so you can either modify the doors or change the hardware (which is what I did).

I have 2 sets left and not sure if I will bother making anymore. Not sure the demand is there. $30usd shipping included.

Here is the video I took last night...

Anyone have one of these or know where to get one? Capcom Apron Decal...

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/CA-13E

That would be awesome thanks!!!!

Thanks for checking!

From day 1 I had flaky optos for the stage door.

I reflowed them and were good for a while then got flaky again

Replaced both optos with Bally/Williams ones and all was good for a while and now flaky again

They come on and off randomly and can be seen clearly in switch test.

Anyone else have this issue?

I could rebuild the whole harness, new wires and repin connectors if needed or does anyone happen to have a opto harness for the stage doors? Or any other suggestions?

Maybe the issue is further down the line?

Thanks Black Knight. Ill look into this!

Repro stage door set for sale

Above is post #2033 if you want to have a look at the video.

I have one set left. No plans to make more. $30usd shipping included. Been working great in my machine since I installed them.

oops

Thanks Chris! The last set sold right after I posted it!

Buy something like this and you will be set forever....

https://www.wish.com/product/5cda8c8755b9b57af75ce582?hide_login_modal=true&from_ad=goog_shopping&_display_country_code=CA&_force_currency_code=CAD&pid=googleadwords_int&c=%7BcampaignId%7D&ad_cid=5cda8c8755b9b57af75ce582&ad_cc=CA&ad_curr=CAD&ad_price=5.00&campaign_id=6493229759&exclude_install=true&gclid=Cj0KCQjwna2FBhDPARIsACAEc_UMMyQQbW3-r7y5XaGKS1hxtFP7dSITjOlo6_SO3xKX0jkIlI_PE6IaAtIxEALw_wcB&share=web

Or on amazon....

https://www.amazon.ca/Saipe-Assortment-External-Retaining-Retainer/dp/B08H5S5YL9/ref=pd_sbs_7/135-1353644-1040840

Holy hell. I was doing this all wrong for a year while restoring mine!!! I would love to see a video of this!!!

Ok cool! I was pulling the whole playfield forward like 2 feet beyond the front of the cabinet and then propping it up on something very carefully. Was precarious and not easy to do by ones self!!!

That is the video I watched before (thanks Chris for that) and used that method and propped up the front of the playfield so it did not rest on any of the mechs. The new twist with thelaws's method is pure magic!! It all makes sense now. The other way worked but was awkward! Good job Capcom!

I bought a NOS power board and it never reset since installing it! Got it from https://www.pinballspareparts.com.au/

30 boards!!!! That is some Capcom gold right there!!!

Yaman I fixed my reset! It can often be that the caps all need to be reflowed but mine was a toasty connector. Here is the video where I addressed it

Good luck!

I would ask Dave at pinballrom.com

Awesome, glad to hear that! Thanks! And yep Dave is a cool dude and would be willing to help I imagine.