I love mine. LED's do not work and you totally spoil the lighting fading effects if you try to use them. can you use them? Sure, but you will take away a shitload of the ambiance that the game creates because of the way the GI's are handled. Plus some insert features are lost if you try and use LED's. Like Jinx has a progressive fade to the insert. The more faded it is, the less points you get for the side drain. Try to put LED's in there and you lose the effect totally. Not every game has to have LED's in it. Just like the stupid shaker thing. There are only about 4 or 5 games in existence that have any business even having a shaker. All the rest, is just fall under the category of, "how much shit can I pile into my game?".

wireforms are plated like shadow.

Siderails and lockdown bar on the protos are stainless. Black powdercoat on legs, lockdown bar and siderails on production.

mine has a delay for the trunk lock as well. I think it's just how the boards process the switch information.

if your captive ball isn't registering. I found that the switch at the top isn't lined up right all the time. Likes to shift off center like Stern targets do. Take the switch out, look at it, make sure it's gapped correctly, lined up right and clean. Also seen some, that look gapped right, but when put in the game, the wood of the playfield, pushes against the switch, causing it to be always closed. Which makes the game only acknowledge it when it's hit open, so you have to hit it hard enough to make the switch bounce open, which takes a lot of force to do.

i've never seen a Pinball magic with wear anywhere. And i've seen about 10 of them.

wow, someone must have been good at hitting that hole down there Around here, it's a damn hard shot and doesn't happen often.

Mine was just doing this exact same thing. I replaced the optos on both sides of the stage. Also moved the resistors to the back of the board. The heat from the resistors causes the opto to go out faster than they should. Worked for awhile. Then it started doing it again a couple of months later. I resoldered the surface mounted chips on the solinoid control board (baby board on the bottom) . I believe it was U18 was the chip for the stage. Works great now.

you will see a faint blue flicker while the ball rises to the top. It goes fast and not bright like a flasher normally is. Just provides an ambient light. And LED flasher does not work here.

that is true. black rose tried doing it, and it looks like ass. Never LED a capcom.

yup, mine will do nothing. Its because of how the game is programmed to do the fade in and out. LED's are like digital and bulbs are analogue. Doesn't work to dim and bright on digital.

I agree. I like the light show as well.

just have some L brackets welded to the outside. Will never break again. TZ scoop suffered from the same problem.

yea, with TZ if you get the reinforced target, it stops the edge of the scoop getting beat down.

it's not socketed, so yes you have to unsolder the old chip, put a socket in and put the NV chip in. If your not masterful at soldering, hand it over to someone who has experience.

don't LED it. Looks like shit.

LED's have limited amounts of fade effect they can do. I would have to see them in person, but I do not think you will get the pulsating in and out that you do with regular bulbs.

you have to have someone around you that knows how to solder and does their own board work.

also, look at your plunger. If your shooter housing isn't centered right, you won't get full impact on the ball. Also make sure the tip touches the ball. If not. bend the prongs back on the shooter shield. or take out some washers from the barrel spring. If it's not lined up. Loosen the 3 screws that hold the housing on, center it. Should hit dead center. Otherwise you will get force on the ball at an angle which puts lots of pressure and spin on it. Causing massive amounts of lost forward momentum.

I have mine up for trade right now, but I have some trade offers in the works right now. Nothing has been set in stone yet. I think I have something, but the trade has been pushed back.

this is fixable. What I would do, is cut a clear piece just like that entire lower section and a little up from that. Glue the broken piece together, then reinforce the clear piece on the back of that. Glueing the clear piece directly to the current piece. Redrill the mounting holes and remount. Will never break again. I'd do it to the other side while you have it apart, so you never have to take it apart again.

sorry, I didn't read anyone elses posts. Just saw that one, and replied and left.

3K? I call bullshit. If you can get a nice fully working one for $4k. I think most people would just pay the 1k more to actually have all the boards working, and the captive ball and posts actually in the game, and an upbroken curtain, drop decals and who knows what else. This isn't even a players condition game. it's rough. It's considered a project in this condition. If I found this in a warehouse. I wouldn't offer more than $1000, because the buyer has all the risk. Which smart buyers know, to majorly under price, when you are taking on all the risk for potential problems. If you pay 3k for something like this, you are too new to the hobby to be buying games like this in the first place.

hey, some people like to get pounded in the ass on deals. To each his own. I won't judge.

Pounding in the ass, I heard you. Whatever you're into.

how does that not roll off of there?

mine still had feet.

thumbs up for having diversity in your collection. Little bit of everything there. Kudos to you!

I have an NOS one sitting here.

I told you I have an NOS floating ball. Even sent you pics. Said make me an offer.

It's not metal. it's plastic. I think metal would have been too heavy and burn out the motor. It's a plastic partial ball, on this zig zag type wire that goes in and out of the curtain.

yes, it's happened. Your opto is either out on one side or the other, or you have a loose connection, or a bad connection on one of the spider chip legs. First i'd disconnect the optos and connect them again. Also note how tight those plugs are.

you want the butter fly girls facing out, because they are pushing the curtain open. <----- ------->

looks awesome. If you want to dimmly light the inside. Take 45 lamp sockets. Put them in series on the front inside top. Use the UV LED's and run wires down inside the backbox along the back (in the vent holes if it has them (dont' remember) and tap into the 5V DC line. The black light will glow the stars especially if they are yellow or white.