What plastics do you need?

Do you need one? My treat if you do. Thinking thru amazon since its cheap and easy

You to if you need one.

No I'm good Thanks

Make sure you can get the condom off the old one. if not you may have to buy a colored one.

Yup, condom came right off. I suspect that bulb has been dead for a long time.

What plastics do you need?

Thank you. If you need something let me know.

The stage values little one. It has always been broken with missing piece.
And the long one under morph ramp before trunk lock.
In middle of shop job. So ignore that ugly white rubber.
Getting titan dark blue for PM.

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Get ahold of Bryan Hanson he is the designer of the game. I bought his game. He goes by PinballMagic on pinsides. I have bought parts from him.

Here's one

https://www.pinball.center/en/shop/pinball-parts/playfield-parts/plastics/8737/plastic-for-pinball-magic-aw00123-07

Done!!
Zitt hasn't placed his big order yet!Pinside member helping guys out like you have me!

You helped me out with the clear PM balls I bought from you.

Question for owners. Does the kicker inside the stage area work on your games? There is a kicker there just below the pop bumper. I have tried adjusting the switches so many times, but can't seem to get it to work. It does work in test, so I know the coil / assembly works.

I know it is likely an adjustment thing, but I think if this worked reliable it would add so much action to that area.

Any thoughts?

Yes, mine does. Seen it work during game play. Doesn't have tons of umph, but, gets the ball going a few times up there.
I have no idea why yours wouldn't?
Let me take a closer look, glass been off few days now.

Going throw box of Capcom parts and boards.
What does this go to? I dont think pinball magic.
Triangle lamp board PCB.

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Well, it sounds like you only did a coil test. Did you do a switch test to see if it registers there?

Yes, mine works fine in switch test and in gameplay. Pretty much acts like a 2nd pop bumper.

Think thats a Airborne lamp board

It is, Thank you.

My PM was blowing the breaker switch every second time I turn her on (!). Today I got a nice fresh batch of NTC's (thermistors), I cut a black wire going from the fuse to the transformer and put the NTC in between, but it did not solve my problem. Should I put it somewhere else, like *before* the main switch, or is anywhere between the line and the transformer good enough?

Unplug the connectors on backside of the transformer. Does it still blow a fuse?

Yes, after the third time the breaker tripped.

I tried moving the NTC directly in between the switch and the transformer, to no avail. One thing I do notice, is that the NTC gets f*cking hot. Not even 10 seconds after turning on the power, it is already too hot to touch and starts to smell. I tried a second NTC, with the same result. Same type of NTC in my The Machine: Bride of Pinbot does not overheat like this.

It can't be a short in the power supply, else the fuse in the metal box would have blown too, right?

This photo shows how the NTC is mounted in the PM (the single screw terminal in the black wire shows where the NTC was during the first attempt):

This one shows how the NTC is mounted in the PM

This one shows the setup in my BoP

This one shows the setup in my BoP

You need to move the thermistor back to where it belongs as per the manual.

Need to see a picture of the input into the transformer. I'm trying to find in the manual how the transformer is supposed to be jumpered for 220V. You still have the backside of the transformer disconnected? If so, you can't have a power supply issue at this time if the output (backside) of the transformer is disconnected.

I am pretty sure there isnt supposed to be one? There is an orange thing parallel to the power socket in the metal cage (visible on the top photo), but that is not a thermistor I think.

It is correctly wired. The game also plays normally when it doesn't trip the breakers.

The backside of the transformer is still disconnected. The only thing drawing power after the switch, is a transformer without load and a 220v lead to my PIN2DMD (the red piggyback connectors).

Well something sounds fishy to be tripping a breaker randomly. How many games are on this same breaker? I would move the game to another outlet on a different breaker to be sure it is that game and not the breaker itself.

There are six games (and a few outlets in the kitchen) but when I run the tests, it's always the one game that is being turned on (with the rest off).

The fact that bugs me most, is that the NTC gets burning hut within seconds (you can smell it), whereas the same NTC does not get hot at all in the BOP. This leads me to believe something is wrong in the machine, not the breaker.

How about some history on the game.
How long has the game been working before you had this issue?
What mods did you add into the game? Is this when it started?

I sure would like to see the input of the transformer to see how it is wired for 220V for future reference.

I do not remember that white with black stripe wire being original in the game so that makes me think something added in the game and wired wrong causing the issue.

I generally try to avoid cross-posting but we are a pretty small club and I have had a lot of PMs about this subject so if you have or are interested in Pin Stadiums (please forgive me purists) for PM (or other Capcom games) this may interest you: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-pin-stadium-lights-official-announcement/page/110#post-5238924

Joining your club if that's ok? Swapped out my 2010 Spiderman for a nice condition (by all accounts) Pinball Magic. It should be here in the next week or two.

Just posted in the marketplace and open to offers as no idea how to price it, but a full stage door assembly for PM

PM stage door (resized).jpg

WEll i'll give you this much, you got a serious collection of odds and ends

Get ready to get a bunch of PMs just wanting the left stage door. If you have the plastic piece that covers the front PCB bulbs you've struck gold

Was this sold? I didn't find it in the Marketplace section.

Thank you

It was purchased by a buddy of mine last week.

Ok, no worries. Thanks for the reply!

Chris

 Here we go! Any one have a set of stage door thay be happy to move on.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/introducing-the-new-colordmd-lcd#post-5291160

This New Display by Colordmd is slimmer in design so that the LCD display works great. Control board moved to not hit metal box.

I don't know if this is necessary considering how damned good the LED one looks in PM, it really may be the best looking ColorDMD I've ever seen in any game.

Agreed, but at least this gives everybody options.

I have to agree with this. The color LED is amazing in Pinball Magic! I get that people do want options, so this IS great news for those who prefer the LCD with the options available.

Either way, it's a win!

Chris

I will be taking in a Pinball Magic from my friend to play through the winter as well as do a minor shop job. Having never worked on a Capcom, Is there anything to take note of right off the bat? I'm assuming it would benefit from a flipper rebuild like most pins. I also know that the 5 bank drop target assembly will need some attention from the several times I have played it. I have looked around for flipper rebuild kits, but haven't had luck. Is there a good source for parts in general? Thank you in advance. Erik

Pinball Spare parts Australia... or you convent to Williams flippers

No real reason to convert. The parts are available, though flipper links I use the later style williams.

I'm finding about everything to rebuild the flippers on this PM. But I can't find a flipper bat clamp for the right flipper assembly. The current one is half assed with a partial Williams set up. Has anyone seen one for sale anywhere recently, or does anyone have one they can part with? Thanks.

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Fired up my PM for the first time in a while the other day. Noticed i have a bunch of lights out. 2 full columns in the lamp matrix to be exact. Any ideas on where to look? No broken wires. Im guessing bad transistors on the board.

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Two rows, all lamps. Sounds like a fuse.

Forgot to mention- that was my first thought but sadly it was not a fuse. All fuses appear to be OK

Reseat J10. Any improvement?

I have pretty much finished up the "shop" on this PM. Very pleased with it. I like a lot of the features Capcom used when they built these. The playfield hinge/pivot set up took a bit to get used to, but once I figured it out, I love it. Also installed a colorDMD LCD screen. It makes this machine pop.

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Regarding my problem, i may have stumbled onto the issue. 2 of the wires on j23 worked themselves loose. I need your guys help though. I got the yellow back where it belongs but I'm not sure where the purple goes. Cam somebody take a closeup pic of their j23 connector for me please?
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EDIT: I was able to figure it out. Sadly it didn't fix my problem. Looks like i'll pull the driver board out

The pinball magic I just shopped out I believe had a problem of kicking out a couple balls every now and then into the shooter lane. It seems to be doing the same thing although infrequently. It works perfectly most of the time until you get a ball across the wand into the lock. The next ball kicked out will kick out two. I've checked the shooter lane switch with a ball to make sure the switch is making contact and it is. Also removed and reinstalled the connectors for the ball trough optos. Any other initial thoughts?

Sadly my PBM went to another hone yesterday. Loved this game and it will be missed!
When I have some time will put together a list of extra parts.
Including plastics, under wand plastic , complete ball lift motor (NOS) and many more.
Thanks to all for the help over the years

Sorry you let it go, but what you got was pretty sweet

I'd be interested in your extra parts when you get to them.

Chris