Ive never seen that error either but will look over my wiring tonight. Ive had a colordmd in for 2 years now i believe and no issues with that power cable disconnected

I have a LCD ColorDMD for 2 years and that error never came up.

I occasionally saw an error similar to that (but I don't have a picture of it) in the past with my friend's Breakshot which has a LED display for over a year. So I don't know if I had the exact error. I did not see the error last night, but I recall replacing 2 very loose power IDC connectors to the driver board when I was there a month ago. Very likely where the problem was since a couple of times the game did not boot at all.

So try removing the balls out of trough, turn the game off and drop the balls at the outhole and then turn on the game. This is how I seen the problem occur in the Breakshot. This is how it seemed the problem was duplicated, but just may have been an intermittent power issue before I replaced the 2 power IDC driver board connectors.

Question about the second "shoot the full loop" skill shot, is it supposed to display any kind of skill shot award sequence when that happens? Mine never has and I keep wondering if something is wrong. All switches work fine in test and game play.

The real skill shot is hitting the hat.

What game version is in your game?

It awards super spinner if you shoot the full loop when told to do so.

That makes sense and is happening, thanks!

Chris,

I use a custom cable made for the ColorDMD on PM so I moved over the cable I have for Breakshot to test it. I made the one for breakshot but I'm pretty sure its similar to the one included with the ColorDMD now. Ignore the cable plugged into J4 on the left. That is the other cable I use to power the display. This is plugged into J6 on PM. on Breakshot its J2. Same pinout and goes to the small PCB with transformer on it for the plasma display that you disconnect when using a low voltage display. I can not get those errors you are showing to pop up on my machine. And I've tried 1.0.6? rom and the latest 1.0.12. I also tested an LED display, chroma LCD and V1.3 (old school) LCD display. No errors. I'm a bit baffled. Can you post pics of your J6 area?

20190427_103056 (resized).jpg

And for those of you asking about fitting an LCD in breakshot or PM, I cut the metal display shield and bent it up to fit it. I used a right angle USB extension cable to access the usb port easily with out removing the shield.
20190427_103849 (resized).jpg

Thank you for the reply. I have attached a pic of the J6 area. The game works fine after it throws these errors. It's probably something stupid, but I can't seem to put a finger on it

Chris

IMG_6176 (resized).JPG

IMG_6178 (resized).JPG

Chris, i don't see anything wrong in the pics

Ill look over that page about the error though
.. hmm.

Can someone please tell me how to post a video in this forum?

Upload your video to youtube and copy the link to it on your Pinside post.

One of the drop targets in my machine broke yesterday and I suspect others will follow suit soon enough. Marco and others don't have them in stock. My daughter has a decent 3D printer, so unless anyone knows of a source for Capcom drop targets I'll likely go this route. Does anyone have a 3D scan or CAD drawing of the drop target? I'll try and build one, but it's not exactly my strength.

I've seen them posted for sale occasionally but don't remember where I bought mine from. The 3D printed ones will likely not hold up very long but if that's your only option....

Thank You!

I have used ones if you'd be okay with them. User dethfactor made ones for his Breakshot pin. Perhaps you can PM him and he can share the 3D print file?

Here is the link in that thread where I posted pics of my used ones as well if you're interested:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/breakshot-club-members-only/page/8#post-4956517
Start at post #388

Chris

SilverUnicorn is the MAN! Always quick to jump in and lend a hand! His shared photos allowed me to determine that I was missing a plastic and hence why I was having so many problems with the stage/pop area!

That's what the hobby is all about

I have had so many help me over the years it's the least I can do!

Chris

Does anyone know to silence the critics if it matters which hole you drop the ball in from the wand? The second one (farther travel out from the wand) does not end up working, but the switch is good in test mode.

Hmm...make sure they're wired correctly/not flipped and the second one is actually triggering the second switch? Never had an issue on mine so just spitballing here

Are you repeatedly testing the switch with a ball (not your finger)? A finicky switch will usually work with slow finger presses. Drop the ball through the second hole many times to see if you can get it to fail even once. If it fails, check wire positioning. If that's good, replace it. And yeah, the law has a great suggestion. Check the potential reversal first.

Remember the old saying "Never use your finger when you could be using your balls."

thankyou

mark

Thank you... you and your team have been spot on with my orders , the choice of product is there and I appreciate your fair shipping prices....
All the best...all the time

Agreed. Not just Pinball Magic, but PSPA was the ONLY place I could find some off the wall stuff for our Airborne machine. Great people to deal with!

Chris

Ive had several good orders from PSPA over the years. They were also the only one at the time that had several PM plastics I needed.

On a side note. I have over 30 capcom boards I will be testing in my PM over the next month.
I will post here first for members of the club before listing elsewhere. Please wait, no Pm's yet. Let me see what works first.
Thanks.

Anyone know if the color dmd is specific to Pinball Magic and Capcom, or can I use one from say a stern lotr?

It's a standard dmd ...if it's an LCD you will have to modify your holder

Great, so do i just need some sort of software to run it?

I think mounting and power connections are different though, right?

From a software perspective you just load the PM Rom from their site.

Need the Capcom connector....

If its an LED ColorDMD you need this:

http://shop.colordmd.com/cable-kit-for-capcom/

LCD you still need the cable kit and then some modification to your metal bracket.

Thank you. And where do you buy the programmed Rom?

The Game roms are free. You need only purchase a display. If you already have a display go to this link to determine which version you have. Then click that version and look for game name, then download file to usb stick at least 4gb. I prefer 8gb memory stick.

https://www.colordmd.com/support_firmware.html

Its always something.....
Wonder why my knocker isnt doing its job?
Stage opto isnt happy, and stage diverter needs some love.
I have so may small fixes on at least 7 of my pins. Problem with large collection.

Half the fun of the hobby ,although my Capcoms are more finicky than they others.
Not much hope for us when you by a new in box and have the same problems ...
Hang in there buddy

hi all pinball magic people

im in need of any help i by passed the transformer and sent 240v into the boards a very silly oversight that is costing me dearly as the full restore no does not start the CPU in particular is fried and the 1 i can purchase has chips missing i would happily buy a whole CPU or does anyone know where i can purchase the chips
U25 Ram ( 245160 ) and U14 RTC ( M48Z08
Dead U16 , U8 , U25 and U14 U22 and U23

any help please

Hey folks, VERY excited to have just joined the club!

I just ordered Herg’s LEDOCD for this game, and will be installing Sunday.

I have a couple of items to fix on the game - upgrade the ROMs (it’s on 1.03 but I understand there’s a 1.12)

First question as I’m familiar mostly with WPC: what size trim do I get for the translite? Mine is held on with electrical tape, I just discovered. Same as WPC? 23/28” x 1/8” ?

Anything in particular I need to know when shopping the game?

Thanks!

Well I believe there is a secret position you can put the PF in to access it better. I have never done it though honestly, and forgot aboot it the last one I shopped out. It isn't horrible just a bit annoying to get to the back of the PF...let me look.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/pinball-magic-club/page/10#post-3316747 <---look at post 482 a few down as well.

Other than that the game itself is very slow reacting when you lock a ball...it doesn;t register for a few seconds, so don't go thinking that's an issue.

I think this should be standard on all pins .. Nice to be be able to pull the playfield alk the way out ... make sure you have a support handy to prop it up.

Thanks - the hinges in this game are ridiculously well designed - I will absolutely be taking advantage of this soon. Thx for the tip!

If you mean putting the playifled onto the lip that covers the top of the glass, ehhhh. It is a risky position, good way to bust the dmd cover on airborne if it slips.

I have not been able to successfully get this to work out - it keeps rolling off. Unfortunately, it's actually a really good way to get to the back of the PF, and since i'm doing a full clean-and-polish shop out, I need to get back there!

Rob, I found it easiest (and most stable) to remove the playfield from the cabinet. Congrats on picking up another GREAT title!

Is there any way to get a full set of digital schematics?

Thanks,

Thanks James! Do you mean removing it entirely? I do have a rotisserie now.

Man, I absolutely should have took you up on that STTNG deal. Do you still have that?

Schematics are in the manual. https://www.ipdb.org/files/3596/Capcom_1995_Pinball_Magic_Manual.pdf

This is how I do it when I need to:

Chris

Yeah, that video was very helpful the last couple of days. Appreciate it!