BS to you too! You always argue my posts anyway, getting bored.

This PM, if you look, even has the feet on the person at the flipper buttons. Very rare and only happens on lower usage pins. This pin is worth $3k all day. Buy a dmd and/or board, rubber, etc. You have a great pin. If I did not already own one I would buy it for $3 k.

I examined the photos again. Of course you never give the money up until you see it in person. I maintain that $3k is the top. With $1k this pin can be brought back to $4 k value. In other words, you shoukd not lise money. You will have a great pin to enjoy too. If you need ti dump it you should break even.

Is the board available? I couldn't find any that are not unknown/as-is condition. I'm not familiar with how the display is driven on Capcom, but presumably, worst case you would need a new/fix one of these, that is described as "these are returned boards back to capcom , might have faults "

http://www.pinballspareparts.com.au/a0015402.html

I also initially thought 3K is what I would offer, and that's what I told him would probably be the ball park ahead of time. Then I saw it and learned the display is out (and it's not just the panel), and the other issues, so I only felt comfortable offering 2200.

Friend I respect your offer prices. It is your hard earned money I am not sure about the dmd driver board architecture either. I can check mine when I get home Wed. ( in Key West now). I know that I would go $3 k if:

1 boots up properly
2 playfield has no wear through. Small chips at vuk hole is ok. Hopefully mylar is on pf
3 wire harness and boards are hack free
4 cab is like in pics. Touch up paint needed but no water damage
5 most plastics are there and all mechanisms. Mechanisms are important. Make sure they are not corroded too

That is it for me. If it passes to #5, then I buy it for up to $3k. I wish you good luck in getting a PM it is a great pin and will never leave my collection. It is linear and that is a big complaint. I look beyond that though. The art...sounds...shots...great pin! Period imo

The display board is available still, shouldn't be a hard fix. The problem could easily be in the ribbon cable or some other easily fixed problem as well. The game is pretty rough for sure but it would clean up nice and almost all the things it needs replaced are readily available. PM is not a game that comes up for sale very often. If you are after one then you almost have to take what you can get unless you wait for a really long time until somebody sells a nice one for less than its worth, or you get really lucky.

High voltage, the board you posted is the CPU board, which I believe is still available as NOS assuming you have the CPU chip to put into the socket. More than likely if there is a display problem though it lies within the display board itself which is underneath that CPU board.

Its unlikely you'll pull up any artwork even on inserts with mylar removal as capcoms seem to have really thick and nice clearcoat on the playfields. If you've ever seen one in person you'll know what I mean. It'll probably be one of the easiest and cleanest mylar removals you could do.

If the game boots up and goes into attract mode at the very least, I would suspect the MPU is good and the DMD power board mounted on the back of the speaker panel to the left of the MPU board is dead. The electrolytic capacitors on the board do leak (very conductive) and bridge across voltages and burns up traces. I had repaired 3 boards already (2 for breakshot) where I had to bypass the board and run leads together off the board in order to get the boards repaired.

Hopefully, the ColorDMD Sigma display will be available at some point then you would not need this DMD power board and likely even see some up for sale once that happens.

For anyone that has one of these DMD power boards, I suggest replacing all the electrolytic capacitors now before your board fails. (I can repair this board for you if needed.)

PM_DMD_power_board_(resized).png

I apoligize if this has been asked before - but where can one get new rails to fit this game?
I recently bought my game (from a fellow pinside her :> ) and the only thing I might replace are the two side rails
Where a previous owner really cranked down the folded head enough to dent the rails.
I love this game! (Even though I may have overpaid. Lol).
What a great game!
M

hey, some people like to get pounded in the ass on deals. To each his own. I won't judge.

Got a good source to get those caps?

Mouser.com. i think even Great Plains Electronics had all them as well if I recall correctly feom 2 years ago.

And some people are just plain jerks. I do judge. Your criticism type posting history tells all. The devil is in the details...in mutiple threads.

Pounding in the ass, I heard you. Whatever you're into.

In need of of post

SM00145-04 Post, Bumper, 1.125, M-F, 8-32 (7/7 x 1/2)
This part seem to be out of stock everywhere

Anyone have one that thay can sell me?

10 days, and re-posted, with a funny salutation to boot - is he appreciative or not? I'm considering offering $2501. Ha. I figured this wouldn't move at 3K. Anything in this locale posted at market value moves quickly.

Please don't offer me $2,000 or $2,500. Just don't. Thanks for your consideration! I appreciate the interest and responses I have been getting.

portland.craigslist.org link

I looked at this machine about a month ago when he called me to do a service call on it.The voltages on the display are all correct,so it's most likely not a power supply issue.We tried 2 other DMD displays(one new) and neither on worked.The game is in real decent condition,and if given some love,would probably be fantastic,,,but does need Lots o' love.

Did you give him a quote to get it into that fantastic shape? We all know he's not going to do it himself...

When I offered him 2K, he did mention the tech that examined it also offered exactly the same. Maybe you are forgetting how rough it actually is? Granted you have to make some money after you fix it up, but the only one that's going to offer significantly more is someone who sees it as a labor of love and is going to keep the machine. Wait long enough, and he may get lucky and find that special buyer.

PS: I bought your Fire! and Black Knight at PRGE last year, still enjoying them.

Yeah,I told him that it would cost about $700-$900 to get it reconditioned and working well.Glad you're happy with the games,those are good ones for sure.I probably would have bumped my offer up a little if he seemed interested,but we were just too far apart to make a deal.I wish him all the luck though,its a cool machine.

What is the wizard mode on PM?

Every shot on the game has to be made to kill Matra Magna I believe.

http://www.gamefaqs.com/pinball/915937-pinball-magic/faqs/1450

Replacing my speakers
Looking on the menual the base speaker is 4 Ohm 20 Watts.
I cant see any info of what the head box speakers are and are thay 2- way speakers?

Once again back in the club. PF is nice, ramps/scoop need welding, few broken plastics, but not bad. Cab is better than my last, few scuffs on the head, but all in all nice. Big needs will be new legs, side rails, and the bracket that holds the left side of the head to the cab.

Kerry @ Mantis has the ramp. We're working on a new, reinforced scoop right now. Pinbits has plastic protectors for it now, as we just completed the second round of test-fitting.

So my stage stopped registering when the ball was in it. The lift mechnism was not going fully down, easy fix, but see another issue. Someone hacked up the plug for motor. They left the original plug with three cut wires coming out of it. They then soldered one set of three wires that come off a quick disconnect and two other wires that are shorter and from deep in the wiring harness. This *works* but it is a hack, and I hate hacks.

Can anyone take a pic of their levitating ball trick to show what wires are supposed to be there?

Tip: more protection for the plastic drop-targets (5-drop target bank).

Add a second rubber beneath the standard one. The standard one rests in the post's groove. The extra rubber sits below that.

This helps because the second rubber prevents the targets from being pushed back to far, which is the primary reason they break.

This is actually an old tip that Cliffy posted to RGP ages ago, yet still relevant until someone 3D prints some oblong posts to better solve the issue....

This came up in a recent conversation where Cliffy were discussing the protectors he's going to eventually make for the game. Thought I'd share....

-Brian

PM-Doubled-Rubber (resized).JPG

This is just a test. A test for the best color match.
PM4 (resized).pngPM3 (resized).pngPM 1 (resized).pngPM2 (resized).png

Another tip Cliffy shared with me last week.

The glass receiver at the base of the speaker panel is made of metal, instead of plastic like B/W, for a reason:

It's designed to be strong enough to support the back of the playfield when you''re working on the topside of the playfield.

Well thought out back in the day.

pf-up2 (resized).JPG

how does that not roll off of there?

It's the way the hinges are designed. Pretty ingenious....

Someone should make customized stage doors and top banner for the stage area

Mimic what's drawn on the printed plastic using pleated velour covering (maroon, dark green, gold, or even something with a pattern).

Cut new plastics out of plain PETG and save your original plastics for future use!

Perhaps there would even be a way to use only fabric for the curtains and then have them pulled to the sides just like a real stage curtains ...

I always had a hard time trying to access that area for cleaning and repair. Especially taking the ball elevator apart and re-assembly. I always did the task with the pf fully vertical or pulled out but not lifted upward like that photo shows.

Tx for that. Next time it will be easier and less frustrating thanks to your post!

I bought this machine. My tech put in an old dmd from my CftBL, resoldered the large caps on power supply (probably what u missed), resoldered a couple optos, and game plays great. its in beautiful shape. Happy to have a nice example of this machine.

Very nice feature. At the other end you can also tip it forward and rest the front on the slingshot mechs, although if I was doing a lot of work I'd probably put part of a broom stick or a pillow under there for more support.

image (resized).jpeg

That is mildly hilarious although sucks for whoever buys them.

Wonder how many people still have the feet? My game does, but I am guessing it did not get much play. It just got stored in some fun places.

mine still had feet.

Mine still does

Disclaimer: Tested was conducted with ColorDMD LCD Sigma display.

I can't believe they would sell them like that. What an outrage! Thats like the number one reason a person would want new decals on the side and it doesn't even address the problem! I am thankful mine still has his feet fully intact. One of the perks of a very low play HUO model I suppose Makes me wonder though If I should come up with some sort of protection for that area...

And Bstyles thank you for the wonderful tips!

Man i miss mine what a great game why did i sell mine

Look at the 2nd photo on this page hahaha: http://www.retrorefurbs.com/shop/pinball-magic-capcom-pinball-cabinet-decals/

my feet are perfect. a pinsider used pics of my pm to touch up his feet on his pm

hi All - have a problem with my PM . I had the playfield vertical for a week or so while I was cleaning and reworking my ball optos -
when I placed it back down to play, upon start up, the stage doors just open -and the coil to eject the ball just keeps energizing. I manually moved the fixed ball into the down position and that got the game to start correctly - but while playing I can still hear the solenoid cylcle on and engage the kick out arm. but I could play a few games. seems that the trouble is that fixed ball gets stuck in upright position?
I'm stumped.
If I should start a separate thread - just let me know. thanks
M

The coil to eject the ball is firing because there is an opto in the base of the stage that is either dirty or inoperative. Put it in switch test when it starts firing randomly and see what switches are active.

Yes to what dung said. Opto fires the kick out mechanism...so something is tripping the opto switch most likely. Use a Q tip and poke around and swioe the optos. Last resort is they are not aligned and you have to loosen and nudge then retighten.

Do you have all the balls back in the trough? If not, the game can think that balls are stuck somewhere in the game and continuously fire a particular coil.

Thanks for all the suggestions - cleaning the optos seems to be the fix- but not before
I tore down the stage on the top side. Bitch to get to - almost lost the PF when I tried to pull it out rather than vertical. Slammed down and bent a drop target switch bracket.
Seems it's a two person job to remove/adjust the PF. At least for this old EM guy. Lol

Although I love blue color LED displays for some reason I really like the Gold/yellow one better with the pics you posted.

^^^ See previous post in this thread about resting the playfield atop the metal channel for the playfield glass. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/pinball-magic-club/page/10#post-3316747

Is there any way to trun off ball saver ?
If I dont shot the fist ball out of the lane the game starts to look for it then after a time kicks the next ball out in to the lane. In the end all 3 ball in the shotting lane. And the game still looking for the balls

This sounds like the lane switch is not registering to me.

Chris