Any LV owners who have received their games want to post some video of the game playing? Curious to see the lighted backboard and side art in action! And, well, just want to see more footage of the game in general
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Any LV owners who have received their games want to post some video of the game playing? Curious to see the lighted backboard and side art in action! And, well, just want to see more footage of the game in general
Quoted from precisionk:I would say it happens all the time, LV, latest everything. Like you will see him say the first line, then it cuts to when he gets mad but no audio from that. Of course when it drains. It's the only scene I notice where the audio is off, but I haven't seen everything as I am terrible.
Will try to adjust the airlock because that thing magnets straight on down (which is why I thought the center post was installed by default).
Any chance the no-audio with that line could be due to the Adult Content being set to NO/OFF, and the line containing the word “shit”?
Quoted from precisionk:I don't think so, because the line with the word shit does get said. Where Apone is supposed to say "Hudson, come here, come here", I believe is where the audio gets missed.
Damn!
Quoted from precisionk:Funny enough, his line before, I wish they had in, here is the before that line -
[quoted image][quoted image]
Hah! Agreed
Hello, all! Just got an Alien SV, and am trying to put some LED bulbs (for lighted flippers or to change the color of the coin buttons, for example), and they get smoking hot, to the point that regular 6.3V Comet LED bulbs burn up and smoke out. Even the default incandescent bulbs used in the coin door get super hot. This even occurred prior to trying to tap into the coin door sockets to run flipper lights; when I simply tried replacing the incandescents with LEDs, they were also super hot really quickly.
Anyone else experience this? Am I just not getting standard voltage for these lights like I’d expect from an American-made machine, and I need different/special bulbs, or does this sound like a potential wiring problem?
Quoted from RussG:I believe those coin door bulbs are 12v bulbs.
You need higher voltage bulbs there or they will burn up immediately.
12V on the coin door, hot damn! Thanks for the heads up, will seek higher rated bulbs
Quoted from Zablon:Always check or ask about your voltages before making changes like this. It could save you from blowing up major parts.
Yeah definitely; for anything more serious/important than coin door or flipper lights, esp with an unknown manufacturer from another country, I wouldn’t just start swappin’ and sappin’.
I’m having flipper issues that I’ve heard mentioned before, where they rapid fire on a button press, or sometimes are 1-2 seconds delayed on a button press, and occasionally get stuck up. Of course, the leaf switches are super weak and flimsy, too.
Wondering if I might resolve these issues with replacing the leaf switches to stronger ones, like Stern (or hell, even JJP/WMS at this point)? I know I have some switches from some older era games, 80s-90s at least, but will have to check to see if I have any used by modern Stern or JJP (I think I have some EOS switches from JJP…could those be repurposed as cabinet button switches if that’s all I have on hand?? I guess they may not have the physical resistance that a proper cabinet switch would have, though, still potentially leaving the button presses feeling flimsy)…the game is absolutely unplayable with this flipper behavior!
Quoted from JDub03:You can replace them with Stern switches.
If all I have are older Bally/Williams switches (SW-10A-48), would those work?
Quoted from P1nhead:Enjoy it and hope your clear coat doesn't start cracking.[quoted image]
Same thing at the same spot here
Quoted from precisionk:So what is the purpose of this? Two plastic washers with with rings behind the egg. Block against airballs?[quoted image]
Likely to help prevent against a ball trap in that area, would be my guess! And perhaps extra protection from air balls slapping against the side of the Xeno from the pops
Question: Anybody else's xeno head kind of freak out when you lift the playfield? If I don't go super slowly and pull the PF forward at basically the same instant that I start to lift it out of the support brackets at the front of the machine, it acts like the back of the inner mouth is hitting the back of the cabinet and pushing/actuating the gears. Is this a known issue, something I can adjust perhaps (can I bias the inner mouth forward w/o causing it to throw off where it expects to make contact w/ the ball while playing the game)? Is it just something we have to deal with? It sounds horrible every time, to the point that I absolute hate lifting the PF because I don't know if something is going to get messed up with that mech one of these times.
Quoted from Zablon:The tongue piece is very close to the back of the cab. Rather than pull straight up to lift the pf, pull it up to clear the apron and then pull forward to pull it away from the cabinet. This cabinet is different than most in that it will stand straight up on it's own to work on it. However, to do this you need to pull it forward quite a ways and lock it in place first. I don't think you can bias the tongue position, but I suppose an option would be to push it forward prior to lifting the PF, but the method above will prevent you from rubbing it on the cabinet.
Yeah, that's the method I've been using thus far, it's just tedious and kind of sketchy because of its imprecision. Oh well, if that's how the thing was designed and thus that is the nature of the beast, then so be it! Thanks for verifying that it's not something odd with mine in particular
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