Got my SV. Luckily, I have been following this thread a little and I lifted the playfield to check connectors before turning it on. There were a number of connectors on the light boards there were no connected at all. I think most of them were for the stand up targets. No big deal as it was obvious where to plug them in. Once plugged in, machine powered up and almost all is well. I had one stand up target out, and it looks like it is an issue in the board under the playfied since the led works when plugged into to another connector. I submitted a ticket, and hopefully the support is as good as everyone has been saying it is.

Overall, this game is a lot of fun. No regrets so far.

I never go by the rating. I make the effort to go in and read the reviews. I am woefully behind on writing reviews for game I have owned. It's usually pretty obvious reading the reviews as to which are well thought out and which are emotionally driven.
I think (and hope) Alien will gain some popularity as more of them go out on location and the masses get a chance to play it.

I have the same issue. I was just going to drop down some additional adhesive as well.

Anyone here get the hypersleep chamber mod from mezel? If so, did anyone have difficulties getting to it fit correctly? I normally have no issues, but this one doesn't seem to fit when placed according to the instructions.

Anyone on 3.0 having issues with the hypersleep ball lock not ejecting ball at end of game?

My opto was misaligned. Needed a little adjustment. All is fixed now.

Ok, whoever made those 3D printed flipper button tensioners, THANK YOU. I installed clear spring-less flipper buttons to all my pins that I light up with leds. They felt soft, until I added the tension mod. Now they feel like all my other pins. PERFECT! Highly recommended.

Other than the xeno not always catching the ball (assume this can be tweaked to some extent in the code), it seems to work fine. The "only" redesign I can think of would have been to have to xeno switches recessed (ala AFM) so the ball would almost always be traveling slow enough to get caught by the magnet. Never worked with magnets, so it is just a guess.

I put Stern mirror blades in mine. They fit nicely.

once, the music stopped. came back either at next ball or end of game.

I attached a dc buck converter to the 12 power supply in the cabinet. I use it to power my 5V mods. I prefer not to pull any power from any of the boards if possible.

I wonder if it shows more because of the greater percentage of solid black on the pf? I never pay much attention to it because it happens on all of my pins.

My pet-peeve are any lighting that is "always on". I tie all mine,include the hypersleep mezel mod to the GI, so when the GI goes dark, so does the mod.

I prefer "standalone" mods that don't run the risk of frying boards. I used a photoresister as a trigger input to the logic level mosfet. I connected a pot from the gate to ground so I could adjust the trigger level (RGB leds are not as bright as cool-white leds). Just a simple light-detection switch. You could do the same from the insert for the sleep chamber.
It's a common switching circuit I use in a lot of my pins for GI or insert triggered mods.

My version of beacon mod by Zablon . My version uses a light detector circuit with a bs170 mosfet. Sensitivity adjustment with 100K pot. Probably work with a pot between 20-100K. I initially used a 10K and it still lets enough voltage to barely activate the beacons.

I used a photoresistor connected to the gate of the mosfet and ground. I connected the pot to +5v and the gate of the mosfet. Photoresistor was mounted over the green opto led on the board. The beacons were connected to +5v and the ground for the beacons was connected to the Drain pin on the mosfet. The Sink pin on the mosfet is connected to ground.
This sets the mosfet to activate when the opto led is off (a ball in in the airlock scoop). Once the led comes back on, the mosfet turns off which turns off the beacons.

This is a first for me in pinball. Two wireform welds snapped while playing. Home use game less than a year old.
Tech support told me to "glue it" back together. Sigh...

Anyone else have this happen to their wireform ramps?

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Newer players don't always know when the weapons are ready, so I built this mod that light and moves a sentry gun back and forth whenever there is a weapon ready.
This one is a servo motor, led light tube, and a 3d printed sentry gun. I connected it to an ATTiny85 microcontroller.

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Both.

I could probably make a board that would house both mods. They are not complicated. The problem is power. A lot of mods use the USB ports for power, and I try to never use power from any of the boards. I use a separate supply for safety, and portability.

Yes, that was one of the easier mods to do. Using the LED under the pf was brilliant.

The "launch button" blinks when weapons are active. I tie into this led as the trigger. If weapons are available, the mod will be moving.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5128702

You definitely used some creativity on yours. Very nice. The model is plain and definitely needs some bling.

That's not OCD...it's just being "high maintenance". OCD is a completely different monster. You do not want to be afflicted with actual OCD. Every time I help my husband rearrange the line-up because he wants particular groupings, I tell him, no worries, it is just "high maintenance" therapy. He grumbles, and agrees. lol

If your wireform breaks, order a replacements for both as the other will likely break.

I'm not too surprised since these are definitely not heavy duty wireforms (far from it). The tiny welds break.

If it is anything like Queen, it is likely to flop.