Just have to say reading this thread its very nice to know people are working through these issues and still having fun with the game. I just got my deposit in with Nitro and this will be my first new game ever - Im sure I wont be playing until February, but Im very excited and glad to know theres a wealth of info here in case something doesnt happen to work out of the box. I aint scurred though cant wait in fact!!!

Music tables are big money makers, hopefully its successful so they can go big on the next title

Perspective from the furniture industry here """- the manufacturer ETAs in 4months, then there is chip delays that add +2mths, then there is shipping - if you werent aware the benefit of 'container' shipping is almost completely disappeared with current pricing - then crazy docks holdups - then added difficulties getting a trucking company whos willing to pick it up, and to ship cost-effectively within NA once its here""" I check this forum every day to see if other Nitro Canada customers have gotten an update - its a trip to see so many people on this forum as un-informed as the customer who are trying to buy furniture from us right now...

Just got my machine yesterday (Ontario through Nitro) game plays pretty great lit of the box - I adjusted the flipper coil strength up +35% to get rid of 'spongy' flippers. I also had to remove & bend the shooter lane wireform so the ball would launch smoothly everytime , and my third 'problem' is the microswitch wire in the shooter lane needed some serious adjustment (I had to fully reshape it! Lol) so that the ball wouldnt get stuck on the edge of the trough, and so the auto shooter stopper hammering it forward. After an hour or two of adjustment it is my new favourite game. I dont have any issues with the quality or design of my unit whatsoever!

My only complaint - this whole thread is so clogged with crap I cant find any if the helpful suggestions for coil adjustments etc. Is there an up-to-date post with all this info??

I also had the trough issues out of the box - if ball is sitting at the top of the trough it should be able to roll down into the lane, the problem I see is the microswitch wire is too tall, and sits ahead of the trough hole so the ball cant push it down. I think you should reshape the switch wire so it sits slightly more forward and lower, be careful because the shooter rod has a bad habit of smacking the switch wire and pushing it forward even if you push it back

Can you post a pic? I have noticed the spingy flippers (had to adjust +35%, but still noticable) but if this solves the issue Im interested in trying! Any harm that could be done by adding diodes to the flipper coils? Anybody submitted a suggestion to add EOS switches to the code??

So does the 'start' button do nothing? Its impossible to start a game? Or the start button puts a ball in the shooter lane, but you cant fire it?

Has anybody here added led lighting to their backbox? Just wondering how to source power or if its possible to 'tap' into GI for game sync'd lighting?

Thanks for this handy info. Has anybody got instructions from Pbros for how to wire the double stacked switches yet??

At this point I have my flipper 'squish' minimized (way lower game angle, flipper coils +35%) and I know to livecatch the ball when it comrs at the left flipper fastwhen it comes out of airlock. At least now if I just leave a flipper engaged to absorb a fast blow, it will 'catch' it and softly pass it back to the inlane usually, rather than just knock the flipper down. The +35% coils do make the flippers almost to powerful for the game, I also hope they add EOS option in the next update..

Heres my question for the day - has anybody been using a 'hard' power reset to turn their game on (ie. On a switched circuit or a breaker with other games) or do you need to use the power button to shut down the game everytime?

I would like to turn the game on/off with a wall switch, but I am nervous just 'cutting' power to a computer-based game

Ive been dialing my game in for a week, the spongey flipper is almost non existent now - they just dont feel like my Dirty Harry flippers sitting next to it. I hope the EOS becomes an add-on (like stacked flipper switches) and then people can choose whether they want the new software controlled feel, or a more classic feel. Still though have to say its the best game Ive ever played

On my game, often the shooter wouldnt make it up the ramp, tried turning 'autolaunch' up but what fixed it was making two adjustments to the wireform. 1) flange the wires at the ramp entrance up 2) make sure the rubber stopper is tilted back so balls arent bouncing back down
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I dont think this can be done until the new hardware update is released. Also I think there will need to be a wiring diagram released to explain how to do it
Edit - sorry after rereading - people are switching to Stern leaf switches for a firmer feel. I thought you were referring to 'double stack' switches

Sorry for this post bc I thought Id read about this issue in this thread, for the life of me I just cant find it!

Im having an issue where 1) my autolauncher often 'doublefires', as though it think there is a ball in the lane, sometimes right after first launch, sometimes during gameplay, and 2) sometimes the autolauncher fires, and then the game puts a ball into the lane and fires, and continues to do so until you inevitably let too many go down and your turn ends. Often this starts to hapoen during Ambush or Sentry guns, but I think it has occured at other times too. Anybody have ideas? Right inlane and shooter are working well in switch test..

Replace the rubber post on the right outlane with a slight taper to make it easier / more common to bounce those back in. On the left no suggestions, except flip when it gets close!

Had the exact same issue and yes I just bent the shooter lane switch wire down a bit.

Friiiig I love this game

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I am willing to shell out for lots of mods for this game but not a new apron - I am working on some new Apron decals rn, I just want something that actually fills out the apron, and gives the info on using weapons that come with the stock price cards

Finally got around to installing 2.6. I was very hesitant as 2.4 was working well for me (SV delivered mid march) I have to say I regret not making this update sooner. There were no issues with the update, even though I left my coil changes prior update, and then decided to factory reset after the update was completed. I needed to make very few adjustments to the coils compared to my 2.4 setup, and any issues with flipper knock down is definitely gone, without having to crank flipper coils +35% (which was definitely too heavy for this game.. -_-) Overall, amazing game! I have just over 630 plays on since march and have to say its working very well overall. Stronnnngly considering flipping my SV and buying and LV before theyre all gone! ...

Since upgrading to 2.6 I just pushed my flippers and pops +5% , slings unchagnged.

If you guys cant get up the hypersleep lock then my guess is you should try to lower the game pitch. I told myself I like my game 'fast' and was close to opening a tixket complaining how hard that shot is - but I lowered the pitch and now it is not even that difficult if well timed. I do find that my upper RH flipper needs at least +10% to the coil also. I think the coil settings sometimes dont 'take' right away and if you dont think it worked maybe power cycle and try changing it again? Gotta get the ghosts out of these new machines..

"Assholes and elbows"

Noticed this when my SV arrived with no weapon target led's even plugged in! When i connected them, only the target left of the Alien lights up - I thought, if I was handier I would 'tap' into that Led signal for lighted flipper buttons

It sucks that buying this game has to be such a gamble because PB is a new company, obv not helped at all by coming off the legacy of Heighway. By all accounts this seems (to me) to be an amazing game (Top 10 all-time, for me) with few and moderate technical concerns that PB seems very active in wanting to sort out. I do definitely understand the risk of spending $10k+ on an item if for some reason you might doubt eventually being able to repair it. That said, I have had immaculate service from Pbros., admittedly all my ticket items are quite minor but, every game has design flaws and revisions and since PBros seems quite intent on improving this (already amazing) game as we go, I wont hesitate in holding onto my game for quite a while!

If your game is perfect not much improvement. If you have large coil adjustments, particularily higher flipper settings, or issues with flipper knockdown then I was able to solve that with 2.6

Do you have 'centre magnet' coil strength adjusted up? If so - try lowering (or even 'factory reset' your game and start from scratch with 2.6 - many coils feel very different vs 2.4). This was an issue I think mentioned in 2.6 release notes?

My game worked great with 2.4 as well but I think 2.6 will serve the game better in the long run - I was starting to get playfield damage that probably could have been lessened if I hadnt cranked my coil strength up +40% on my flippers - which is what felt good on 2.4 to me.

Not suggesting that, the clear is super durable against hard hits. The issue is not impacts but stress fractures at points where posts get 'pushed' to the side of the hole. As the posts in this game loosen up with repetitive impacts the posts are smashed into the 'side' of the clear coat and start the stress fractures. Frankly now with hindsight I think that +35% flipper coil (although fun to play) is too 'hard' for this game , currently I have the flipper dialed down and now am not smashing the post by the 'A' drop target as hard. Ive also added some blue loctite to keep these posts in

Edit: should mention my game was delivered mid March and has about 650 plays on it, plan to put a playfield protector in at 1000

Interesting. PBros offered to send me the post as well, although mine seems to have enough thread to add washers - I at first added a 1/8" acrylic washer but decided on a thinner soft lexan washer to add under these posts and it does give me a little peace of mind, still wont save you if the post becomes loose, hence the loctite. Persoanlly I think they just need to drill those holes wider and possibly change to being 'bolted' from the backside..

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Got any more pics of these? I still havent ordered bc Im so torn over mirror or black mirror . . .

Great to hear man! The posts with the beasts on fire or worse really get me down - play ball!

If you have the cash Id say go with LV. I have an SV and I was tempted to sell on to order the LV for the following reasons:
-Shaker
-2 step flipper buttons!!!
-more lighting
-art blades (not made yet for sale)
-beacons tied in
-art package is very cool
-backbox lighting (I think??)

Still love the SV, but I will have to install backbox lighting, side lighting etc. on my own, already half the cost of the LV upgrades right there. Plus there is no way to tie Shaker, Beacons, 2 step flippers into the SV at this time, MAYBE in the future Im told..

At this time SV's are shipped with firmware .56 , LVs are .57 (or higher?), and you need the upgraded firmware to add function for Beacons, Shaker, 2-step flipper buttons. At the moment the upgraded firmware is not publically available for SV owners to upgrade, you wont be able to add a shaker until they release it

For me the 2-stage flippers are the deal-breaker, I probably wont add beacons and if you turn the Vol to 6 the Bass already shakes the Cab mind you if it ever becomes available I would probs add a shaker just for posterity

I assume yes they cant withold that functionality forever. I wouldnt expect that to happen until they sell out of LVs though

In the menu settings on the real game that I own (the reason I and most others are in this forum) I think it says beacons

Says Beacons in the menu settings

No worries I have no idea what youre talking about, nor do I understand why you would cast a pall of negativity over this forum if you do not now, or have any intention of owning an Alien machine in the future

Im sorry if this is rewind but have you already done the 'rebuild' back to 2.2 a la the PBros website then re-upgraded to 2.6?

In my mind the whole point of a subforum like this is 2) a little hype and 1) people trying to troubleshoot problems with their game and compare with others. I am on here saying Ive had a problem with cracking playfields and I want to warn people as to what I think the best practice would be to avoid on their own manchine - other people likewise on here trying to groupthink small issues - we dont need trolls on here throwing shade without having any experience themselves.

Yep. Just another glorious day in the corps

I dont think you will be disappointed at all!

Hey there - yes I did experience this early in my ownership. Full 'loss' of highscores happened to me twice. Also, I entered initials that were not saved, however I suspect this is because I turned my game off to quickly after entering.

If this continues to happen, PBros recommends you open the case in the backbox, and replace the button battery (CR2032?) on the board. Once I heard this I decided to wait until it loses memory once more - hasnt happened to me again so I havent actually changed the battery myself

Even on 2.6 for me I have the centre magnet turned up at least +20% , have you adjusted this?

2nd , I will share this - which looks good just havent done it yet https://docs.google.com/document/u/0/d/1nAbEz6VHpTw8Kl0FMe9Gfh8GaA52Q2-uChS36ffJNn4/mobilebasic

From VICTORYFORHEROES on etsy - he has lots of great alien stuff, I like the xe-no-more on the Apron.

Has anybody done anything cool with a model from https://www.bigbadtoystore.com/Search?Brand=4948 yet ?! I want to add a vehicle somewhere but, so many options, if someone has added this already Id love to see the results :$

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Hey there - try tightening the screws on the non-clicking one. I did break the target to Left of reverso ramp, on the new targets PBros sent me all targets are held tight by little nuts (pictured) - maybe try adding these to targets, also open a ticket with PBros if you broke a target they should send you the new kit

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Yeesh this sounds like a mess, sorry youre going through this brotha

Could a faulty power supply not have a hand in all that other weirdness? Seems like the only common denominator left..

They can test all the electronics they want but at the end of the day they cant 'test play' every machine before it leaves the factory, peoples playfields would have dimples etc. customers want the first play and wouldnt stand for it. Youve never had issues with a brand new car before?

They have to drive new cars onto a truck, onto a lot that I drive it off of and they still have issues within 2 weeks. Can you imagine the compalints youd see on here if somebody who wanted to put a playfield protector on before play 1 saw dimpling and signs of play on their brand NIB machine?! It would be crazy to think they are play testing every new machine before it leaves the favtory. The above complaint seems to imply it played well for two weeks and the became a brick, also not sure how they would 'test' for that.

I would take PBros customer service over Chevy customer service any day of the week

Looks like a little dried flux on there? Not really much to indicate that it wouldnt be sending signal, at least from a visual inspection

Hmm yeah, while I see whay you mean it doesnt look like something that could cause the issues youre describing. I just spent some time reading through your post history- again, sucks and Im sorry to hear.

My questions for you are; 1) It looked like you had a working game as recently as 5 months ago, when did the chronic issues start creeping in? 2) when was the last time the game booted properly? 3) what code rev are you on now? Whay firmware rev?

Ignored Deebow and I took 24hrs off the internet and Im a happy guy again. Glad you got your game working..

RE DIVERTER POST - there is a known issue where posts dont always react well in 2.4 - I got good response by increasing coil power +40% - but these issues seem completely fixed in 2.6 - if you suspect your diverter posts arent activating at the right time you should try the software upgrade.

These were known issues as recently as build 2.4 according to the release notes on PBros website. What code are you running?

I believe I have read PinFandango is waiting for a game. I certainly dont understand the mindset of those who choose to troll this thread while constantly stating that 'they will not order one of these games'. PinFandango has been a great asset to this thread

1) if you upgrade to 2.6 it says the software and formware version on the blue screen while booting up - is that what you mean?

2) I hate to sound like a broken record but - I often had the black-backbox-screen issue on 2.4 , hasnt happened to me at all on 2.6 in release notes it says they are making changes with each revision to address this issue - if you have it I would again suggest upgrading and seeing if that helps

Frankly Im always amazed that pinball machines work at all - there are some truly brilliant minds at work to make every game play the way they do, this one is certainly no exception!!

Interesting.. in the notes I did see "Fixed some logic with coil power adjustments that could cause coils to be stopped earlier than expected." Sucks to hear that didnt help your issue?

Another one I saw might help people if youve had a random reset "Fixed a buffer overflow in the logger that could cause game resets." I have had maybe one or two resets, usually after multiple games and in the middle of lots of stuff happening (tough to point to one cause), might update just for the added safety here.

The thing that stops me from updating right away is you cant score the airlock shot from behind anymore

The reason I did it is because PBros was changing many of the coil strengths or software that affects them between updates. If you had +40% strength and they change how it works, you should see how the new default settings work before adjusting again. I guess the other reason is because it can cause errors like above

Thats one way to do it. I cant find the link but I would probably try bending the metal bracket behind the switch to try to achieve the same outcome before Id put foam tape on such a prominent spot

Will trade one closed egg for one open Egg

Havent had that issue as often since I lowered my flipper coil adjustments - but I wonder about bending that wireform slightly so that the left-side rail is a little higher - either that or put a little foam tape on the inside top of the gate so it pushes the ball down , havent tried but have considered trying both at different times

I also finally got around to finishing the install of my mods last night! Got my KJS backglasses all mounted and lit - mirror blades installed and some flipper / trough lighting. The new lights really add to the atmosphere and Ive never seen a game that suited mirror blades better than this one! Lovin it!

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Agreed on that! I went with the cheapie method and just stuck some wedge lamp bases in there. As long as you dont mind the light pollution

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This is a cool looking option , even just these decals on a backer of foam tape would probably work well - this looks like a more 'pro' solution

I probably wouldnt let anyone within 10ft of my game with a hot glue gun, to each their own, as long as its playing well. But besides damage to the PF or targets, I would also worry about a potential future buyer not understanding the need for the hot glue and therefore taking away from potential resale value.

Agreed the DeeBow thumbs down without any reason are just laughably childish. I even have the clown blocked , its a strange system that lets ypu block a harrasser, who can then still see your posts and react to them? Whats the point of a system like that? You cant fix stupid unfortunately

Wow so edgy loll

Factory reset in the options menu - will just erase all your coil settings etc. so that the game is at default between software updates - the software update process is the same forwards or backwards I think..

When this happened to me - the hdmi connection the bottom of the playfield screen needed to be pushed in. Oddly this caused intermittent backglass screen, not intermittent playfield screen

-First guess, are your balls sticking to the trough? This could cause loading multiple balls, also the 'drain not registering' issue. Maybe use a trough shim?
-Random firing during gameplay is a noted issue, happens less to me now that I have trough shim. If it doesnt effect gameplay dont worry about it.
-Airlock, Muthr not registering is weird, agreed check the cabling that runs to those optos.

I believe the game 'counts' balls by the optos in the trough, so maybe all your opto switches are intermittent? Again, could be the cabling, or maybe a more higher-up issue. Open a ticket with PBros, and let us know how this works out for you!

I often leave the machine running all afternoon - have run into the lockup problem twice total in 3 months of operation

I agree with the above sir you have helped create a great game here! Hope to buy you a beer one day!

Yes they do! The only thing about this game that infuriates me is the lack of dual flippers, and then knowing that the LV players have them stock.. -_- Hopefully they make the dual stack switches an option for SV owners soon. My understanding is we will require a new Firmware update to make it work? Considering if they gave us the Fw update that LV owners have I assume we would be able to add beacons (which they have said wont happen) I am starting to get antsy about knowing how/when this will happen. Hopefully - soon..

Regarding the code; I am not a horrible player, but honestly have owned the game since March and still havent qualified the main 'All Out War' finale - my top score so far is only in the 2-300million range... the 'linear' gameplay really helps enhance the 'story' of the two movies as you progress, and all the missions are unique, easy to play but tough to master.

The only thing the game code could use in my opinion; MU-TH-R mystery video mode!

-Xeno is never going to catch 100% but try turning up the magnet grab strength a little bit, also making sure the game isnt too 'steep' can help
-2 balls in the shooter lane sounds like your balls are getting magnetized and sticking to trough?
-other issue could be the shooter ramp might need a little bending/ adjustment, or you can increase ball shooter strength.
-Ball flying out the wireform again not as bad if the game isnt so 'steep' - maybe try a small piece of foam tape just under the top lip of the reverso, so the ball is always knocked back 'down' into the wireform? (Untested)

REMINDER TO ALL NEWBIES - REPLACE STOCK BALLS IMMEDIATELY (and you might need to add a shim to trough bc almost all other balls Ive tried in this game get magnetized quickly..

Havent considered this - I have wondered how nerve-wracking it would be to cut in a playfield screen like the OG game though

Personally, I am a lifelong musician went to school for audio engineer training - the speakers sound pretty great and any extra bass inside the cab will probably make it rattle like crazy (mine already rattles at Vol 7..) maybe just try an external sub first. Unless ou really want to put some hifi speaker in there in which case , curious to hear reports if it was worth it!

They are located in Italy I cant see them ever not using metric measurements.

Hey there - you dont need to paint but, while translite is off its quick to pop the speakers off and paint that panel black. You can see a tiny bit through the grill, you can also see the wood if you look through the translite from above.

2. The fit of the inside panel is tight, you just need to make a 'frame' to put squares of velcro on. If you have the plastic angles you can just dbl-sided tape them inside the cab (at least at first, in case you want to move it). When I installed I put the panel too far inside, you only want it maybe 1-1/2 to 2" behind the Translite piece.

Hope that helps - will try to grab pics for ya, if someone doesnt beat me to it

Here is a pic - plastic angle pieces (kindly provided by Kurt in the packaging) just dbl-sided taped to inside wall of the game. I use the top angle but it really just baffled the light.

If you are adding light mods you should add a 12v power supply so you can run apron, backglass, other lights should you so desire

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For what its worth my ball always gets knocked out to the Left flipper, never really bothered me or struck me as wrong, just got used to t he fact that no matter which way you shoot the orbit it returns to Left flipper.

To make the beacon commands work on an SV you would need .57+ firmware revision, this is not available for download for SV users at this time, .57 comes standard on LVs and is needed to make many of the LV features work: shaker, beacons, dbl stack leaf switches

Got Stern Mirror blades, bought from tilt but they ship from cointaker anyways.

This weekend I was kind of thinking it shoots like my Dirty Harry - good selection of shot and missions, tough sideways ramp shot for jackpots, shoot the hole to start missions. Both with great music, good call outs. Its a very unique game though!

The bally/williams have the 'hole' for the hinge bolts correct?

External or inside? Pics? Specs?

Have you updated to code update 2.6 or higher? I had spongey flippers (flipper 'knock down' issues) until I upgraded from software 2.4.

Two wireforms down? Thats crazy! Nope havent heard of that before

I dunno , I also dont really trust music pins (money grab anyone?) but this layout looks pretty awesome, and agreed the art/cab look great https://www.pinballnews.com/site/2022/07/21/queen-revealed/

Find where the power cord runs into the main power supply - just use some round crimp connectors to split that AC signal (after power switch) to power your new power supply, will be turned On/Off when the game is. Few posts about it up further in this thread (1000s of posts ago ) just use the search bar

I also got a backup playfield - my plan is to let it cure in storage while I play the bejeesus out of my OG game, feels great knowing I can really let the playfield have it and can swap out in the future I think it was good of them to provide the playfields for sure!

For those with metal scratches on the ramps - I have polished with 3M Perfect-It #3 and it does a great job of bringing the shine back out after a couple hundred plays.

Would be a good idea if you want to keep them pristine. No harm that I can think of

Few suggestions to try before you resort to using some material to 'dampen' the Xeno targets:
-centre magnet coil turned up? 30+%
-make sure magnet is slightly above PF level (1mm)
-xeno targets all QUITE tight? It is wise to install a small nut on the bolts holding the switches together and crank them very tight

For Hypersleep ramp;
-reduce whole table angle by 1-2 turns of rear levelers
-increase upper RH flipper by +30%
-wax the ramps

Are the different coil stops noticable? Are they shorter than normal stock coil stops?

Agreed /\ I have had situations where I hit the chestburster shot so effectively (haha) that the ball bounces over the magnet on return, I solved this by increasing the RH magnet strength, same as with the center magnet. I would also agree with others, moving the board would not be my first solution

Just want to say thanks to Mageek for these awesome 3D models - had a local place print these, cant wait to get them painted and installed!!

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Hey there - I have had both of these problems, I bet $100 both are caused by balls magnetically sticking in the trough, even if it just causes them to roll down too slowly it can confuse the ball count. You probably need to cut a plastic trough shim. I bet if you lean over and look down the drain while a ball is being served you will see them sticking up in there

Agreed my stock balls didnt look great areived with scratches all over. I did save them however, tossed then in my tumbler for 6 hours with a couple squirts of 3m 'perfect it' #2 polish, and they came out perfectly glassy and ended up in another game Im cheap though

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I've been working on Apron decals to replace the yellow/black strips (PB kinda phoned it in on the Apron ) For me I want the apron decals to display the information that comes on the stock cards so they can be changed out.

Anybody who wants feel free to print this file for themselves, or use my GIMP file as a template for your own design. I have not printed these yet so cant speak to the sizing...
https://1drv.ms/u/s!AoaN3QWnEIMIg_N14nQZh7aYyxbrdQ?e=Cszgpj
https://1drv.ms/u/s!AoaN3QWnEIMIg_RYHqaWxwIykD6Iiw?e=VhrVZq

Cheers and hope everyone gets their games dialed in soon!

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1 Xeno sounds grindy in normal operation. If Calibration isnt working you should just take the head off the xeno and check the switch that rides the xeno tongue.

2 pop bumpers get stuck? Can you make it happen when the pf is up to check? Spoon switches likely wouldnt make them get stuck, but start by checking those switch gaps and make sure they arent stuck closed..

3. Thise leds can be left unplugged for now they arent coded in, no harm in plugging them in but they wont do anything

4 the pf shouldnt touch the backbox. If you continue to slide the PF all the way to the top of the little incline, the metal tabs will hold the playfield upright. I willl say mine felt like I was scraping the playfield forward, until I put a drop of oil on each rail underneath

I am going to try on a Laser printer first, if Im not happy with that I will likely just use those to confirm sizing and get them printed as vinyl decals from vista print

The new firmware comes installed on the LV , you should have beacons, shaker, dual flippers etc. working right out of the box

I am not aware of any other design than spoon switches activated by the pop skirt.. Further up the thread people recommend changing the stock spoon switches to B/W spoons for better function. I did what you did an just narrowed the switch gap for poppier action

True, I guess check to make sure the pop bumpers are assembled properly first , and the metal and fibre yoke arent mixed up

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I thought the PF ski system was brilliant, myself. Love that its easy to work on top or bottom without taking the pf out.

The pf shouldnt be able to 'slide down' because the PF sits on top of the flat bit at the top. The tabs at the top will prevent it from tipping too far backward , they dont 'hold' the PF in place though, the only thing holding the PF from sliding down is gravity. No locking mechanism and the tabs dont slide into anything, if thats what youre wondering

2nd to the suggestion above, a drop of household oil on the skis makes the whole process easier

Looking at your pic - if the tabs were bent too far up, the playfield would still stay at the top of the incline, but the tabs wouldnt 'stop' it from leaning back too far, and it would lean back until the apron touches the head.. When you sit your playfield at the top, and start to lean it backwards, do the tabs not stop it from tipping backwards? Looking at this picture, the PF is in the correct position, you need to slide it up underneath the tabs and it should be fine...

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Downloading now. Another glorious day in the Corps!

Did a first print/fit for my apron decals this morning, just need to edit the shape of the left one a little bit and theyll be good to go

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Files are already posted for anyone to use a few pages ago, I will also post my final image file here when done so you should be able to just print onto 8.5x11 vinyl sheet. If anybody wants a pair printed and trimmed for them I could probably do so for $10 + postage

That looks epic! Will definitely add some great ambiance to the game. Do you plan to cut a custom plastic piece to mount it on?

Still havent gotten around to painting my Airlock and hypersleep mods , sized them up the other day and made sure everything lines up , think they will look great once installed!

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You could try putting a small piece of foam tape on the inside lip of the reverso ramp, so it 'knocks the ball down' before it goes through the wireform