https://www.facebook.com/SuperAwesomePinballShow/photos/a.112449566862727/455536689220678

He fired the shotgun right when he entered the scoop to start it. It’s worth two Xeno hits and so started the Ambush Multiball. No error here.

Take off the Xeno head and reseat the tongue?

That one doesn’t work? (Haven’t tried myself).

CBB24D66-8902-4F05-83BC-07DC43D71DC6 (resized).jpeg

Check out left platform. I would think the screws are all the same size.
https://www.pinballbrothers.com/alien/alien-docs/

It looks like M4, not M6.

So what was the problem?

https://pinballbrothers.freshdesk.com/support/solutions/articles/80000956738-alien-delta-game-update-2-4-
Edit: there’s only delta.

Slim targets (1/2) are not connected on SV, wide (1”) are.

Screen black: open the translite when the game is on. Try pulling the hdmi plug (leftmost under the screen) and reseating it. Display should come on now. If yes, rebooting should help, if not you do have a new problem, not the known one.

Yeah, I put a wide washer under mine. Seems to keep up.

I put self locking nuts on my targets. The screw’s thread is a standard M3 (3mm).

megaladon

Have heard that setting Country has a bug. You need to reinstall the software. Instructions on PB‘s site.

Why didn’t you get you playfield into the vertical position? Is something in the way? How did it hold up like this?
If it doesn’t move lightly apply a single drop of oil to the skis. Only one small is enough. Then be careful while moving, it’s like a bob sled.

Did you fiddle with the magnet strength? If you go over 79% if will reduce hold time by a second. I measured. Doesn’t work like you expect. I guess it’s a security feature to save you from a burning magnet. Stick below 80% and it will hold 3s, enough time for the tongue to grab it.

Hypersleep: all optos connected correctly?
Launcher: check if mech came loose, check screws.

Did you check if the screws that hold the shooter assembly came loose? I had that on my game. Because it’s loose it’s not able to hit the ball dead on all the time. And so the ball can’t come up the ramp.

Again: did you check if the nuts holding the coil are still tight?

I had the same problem.

Did you check if the kicker assembly is still screwed tight to the playfield?

Mine was loose and so not able to kick the ball as it should.

Why not just loosen the screws below the playfield that hold the scoop, turn it a bit and then just fixing the screws again? No need to bend any metal I‘d say.

Bend the switch wire down a bit?

Brian Allen never did any official art for Alien.
LV is by @aurich.

Did you try to loosen the black nylonblock? That holds the tongue down to the gear. Seems your tongue is not pressed hard enough down to the gear, so it can slip. Try to apple some force to the loosened block and then fasten it. You need to experiment a bit. Maybe after fastening it the motor needs a bit more power, but usually not.

The switch is not your problem.

For sizes see unpacking instructions here:
https://www.pinballbrothers.com/alien/alien-docs/

Sounds like the direct connection cable from switches to coils are disconnected. The test can see switches and fire coils but in game it needs the direct cable connection.

You did check that all three optos are wired correctly? In the right order? 3 and 1 not exchanged?

You didn’t show target 4. That also shouldn’t be connected. All five weapon targets have no programming.

Maybe show some photos?

Check the three fuses in the playfield controller box?

They shouldn’t be connected according to PB. That’s why they weren’t on delivery.

It has been repeated here. People sent mail to PB support and they answered that the five weapon target leds are not connected on purpose.
And *all* games so far came with them not connected.

The magnet should only power on when the stand up target has been hit.
The inductive switch is just a helper.
If it isn’t catched when rolling out of the bumpers it’s by design.

The strip is above the backboard, shining down on it. Not at or on or in it. It’s glued to the cabinet.

First, pull out as far as possible.
When you push it up, you have to grab as low as you can. I usually hold at the middle of the rail/ski. Then hold tight and keep pulling while you bring it upright, so it doesn’t slide back down. Before you let go make sure it sits as far at the front as possible.
It’s easy once you found out how it works.

Can you provide a video where you pull it out, then up and it slides down? With the tab end in focus?

Got a photo head on the upper part of the U? Is the U bent up?
Did you change flipper strength?

Please show us what they wrote to you.

No, it’s less.

At the beginning of the video the rail is almost where it should be. Then you say it doesn’t go any further.

Why doesn’t it?

It should never sit there anyway.
You first pull it out completely and set it on the front of the cabinet. Then you grab it near the cabinet (not at the end as before) and lift it up whie still pulling, so it wont slide back while you tilt it it upright. Then it should just be vertical, sitting at the front end of the rail.

That design was never built. It might have been a prototype. I guess it never worked good.
That means even the HW owners never played that design (I owned a HW before the PB).
All HW pins look like the PB ones without the magnet in that lane.

There is talk about adding too much stuff to the usb ports, draining too much power from the game. Not a „common power supply issue“. If you don’t add mods to the existing power supply you should be fine with the one in the game. You have a different problem.

How is the white block under the plastic mounted? We have seen that upside down on someones game here.

700mm
https://www.pinballbrothers.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/Unpacking_instruction_01_Dim.pdf

The change log doesn’t state anything about the weapon targets. It doesn’t say „connect them now‘.
I‘d say they are pretty aware that target 5 doesn’t work. That’s why it’s not in the change log.

That’s a switch. You need to look at the coil. Below the flipper. Not the button.

How did you make the missing cable?

Look at henning’s picture again. This is a different cable. Nothing to do with the ones on the targets. It seems to connect both pcbs.

Yes, henning already found that some posts back today. See photo in his post.

Did you test the bumpers switches with a loose ball? Or with your fingers? It might just be that the switches are not sensitive enough. Then you need to bend them a bit carefully so the contact comes earlier.

The bottom pic looks wrong. The Xeno targets belong together. One of yours seems in the wrong connector. Instead you have a weapon target there.
Did you test the Xeno targets? Do they work as expected?

These targets were never meant to be plugged in. PB never said they should be. Stop telling people that they should be.
As long as there is no official information coming directly from PB on how to make them all work you should just leave them unplugged.

What version is the firmware reporting on your games?

Sorry. 0.75 is wrong. 0.71 is correct.
Does everyone who has 0.75 a working Xeno? Catching and eating the ball?

What firmware version does your game report? Trying to find out why some report 0.75 whereas the file is called 0.71. People with 0.75 seem to have problems with magnet.

Edit: of course the game should be 3.1.

And when Ambush starts it catches the ball but immediately releases it?
You’re not talking about the “flings” it does sonetimes, before Ambush starts?

3.1 and 0.71.

I have 3.1 and 0.71. Works perfect. Tongue isn’t as loud, shaker stops earlier at startup, staged flippers work.
Did a factory reset before playing.

Wondering if the people with problems mainly are 0.75 or not.

Sorry, and absolutely no offense, but I call this BS.

I only saw photos of not connected cables in this thread. Even on the LVs. And lots of people saying that there were lose cables in their game when they opened it. Mine has them not connected. And I still haven’t found any advice from PB on how and where to connect them.
Also as I remember from the discussions around it there are SVs without the connectors at all.

Are you looking at the correct place for the switch? It’s between the lower posts, not where the i serts are. Many people get that wrong and think the inserts are where the ball needs to pass.

Did you do a firmware reset?

I think it’s in the Actions menu. And you need to do it when going to 0.71 and 3.1 according to PB.

Check if the plunger came loose. Then it wont shoot reliably.

Two screws, left and right of head. Then lift top of head up.
You should then see the gear and the rod. Sometimes the rod touches a side and that makes it harder for the motor. Check for that.

I have read that people painted the little fins on the transparent drop targets black to make them work.
So you are not the first one to experience this.

Insert Coin?

Your LV is in SV mode. Wrong translite video.

„Normally“ not in Italy.

Nope. Reduce flipper power?

If it comes out of Muthur it should roll over the flipper into left inlane. If it doesn’t do that adjust left flipper until it does.

How is it formatted, what file system? FAT, FAT32, ExFAT?

Left orbit should go to right flipper, right orbit to left.
Just push the target away from the orbit. Maybe you have to dis- and reassemble it.

Sounds more like a power issue. Do you have any mods connected to the game‘s internal power?

https://www.flippermarkt.de/community/howto/cms/media/pages/pdfs/anleitungen/Rulesheet_Alien_V1_0.pdf

Not sure if this is the latest edition.

If you have 8V somewhere it’s broken. Only 5V, 12V and 48V are used, afaik.

Starting them is easy but not the goal. Completing them is where the real points are

It‘s much faster *and* quieter with the new firmware.

Did you try to fasten the cog wheel on the rod? Maybe it’s a bit loose. You can tell if you hear the motor trying to pull the tongue back in but it just stays out. It simply slips.
Take off the head‘s top to do that. Maybe that’s all.

The latest software is 3.2 and firmware 0.71.
https://pinballbrothers.freshdesk.com/support/solutions/folders/80000525388

You could also lift the translite, pull the hdmi (left side under screen) and reseat it. Does always work for me. I think it’s easier on the whole system, instead of the off/on power surge.

Please don’t try to tell me what I did. I do know the difference between switching a machine on/off and just reseating a cable …
If I reseat the hdmi cable I do NOT need to power off. The machine is happily running the whole time. (edit: I even said that I do this INSTEAD of a power cycle)

If you know about the internal workings of hdmi and newer screen ports (USB-C, DisplayPort, Thunderbolt), you know that the removal will trigger a re-setup of all connected screen ports. When you reinsert it the same happens. This time it is recognized and the main screen switches on due to the whole re-setup.
Just try it yourself next time your main screen stays blank.

Nope. Just plain Linux / hardware default logic behaviour.

Ah ok.

No I only switch it on when I want to play. But I think that each power on gives a power spike. And I just like to avoid those if not needed. Maybe it’s just a belief. But my Tron can spike so hard that the fuse jumps and I have to click it in again. So I guess it might be a bit unhealthy.
(I have one house fuse for three machines, only Tron hits it so hard.)

https://queenstudios.shop/collections/fox/products/alien-1-1-bust

What manual are you reading?

Did you switch to LV or SV? What game do you have?

Edit: fw is 0.71. according to pb website, why do you have 0.72?

When you upgrade to 0.7x tell us of the tongue’s loudness afterwards

So it comes up and immediately falls down again? Then you just need to give it a bit more hold power so it will stay up. It’s in the menu.
I needed to do that with the kickback post on my Queen.

Yes, most screws are M3 or M4 in this game.

They are for holding down the playfield while in transit. For nothing else. The backbox just uses the latch.

Yes. At least that’s how I understood it. Maybe they changed it? Need to check my backbox (have an earlier LV).

Fumble with the switch at the end of the rod to click later. Rod needs to go a bit further in.

You do know that not the insert registers but the circle grapghic below? If it goes over the lit insert but then changes to the other exit it will not count. That’s intended.

Did you update the firmware or game software only? If firmware you should reset all settings anyway as it works a bit different with the coils afaik.

The assembly likes to get loose. Check if it still is tight on the wood.

I had both (still LV). The art packages feel like this:
SV - industrial mining spaceship. Raw. Green. Alien.
LV - military attack ship. Bling. Blue. Aliens.
That’s about the difference I felt with them.

You need the staged flippers only if you are a professional imho. I never was able to use the half push to let the uppers down while hitting the lower. I just release fast so they fall back down before the ball reaches the right upper one when backhanding

It’s all 4mm or M4.
Yes, heads can be 7mm.

Black controller box at end of playfield?

Seems the screws holding it straight up are loose. Try making it straight and fasten screws. If they don’t have nuts add some. I think size is M3.

They are just shorter ethernet cables.
Called patch because you usually use them on patch fields.