I plunked down my dollar on the LV about 5 minutes after cointaker made it live and still have yet to get an email.
I'm tempted to just put down the deposit and email Melissa about it.
Anyone else do this?
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I plunked down my dollar on the LV about 5 minutes after cointaker made it live and still have yet to get an email.
I'm tempted to just put down the deposit and email Melissa about it.
Anyone else do this?
New to the club. it is now at cointaker's booth, so pinbrew will put it through the paces, what a great looking game.
Ball search issue with a ball stuck in the airlock and the switch for the gobble hole/lock 1 not registering... probably the jst connector.
Backbox was damaged from shipping (well, strapping from factory was NOT on a cardboard protector and crushed the head a bit).
IMG_20220408_003900.jpgIMG_20220408_003922.jpgIMG_20220408_003932.jpgI'll post back with the official audits from pinbrew.
Some issues:
-Hypersleep ramp: ball was getting stuck, tabs in, tabs out, plastic on/off, attempted to move the sides of the left part of the ramp forward but no matter what it would bind at the apex of the hypersleep's curve. Poor Jerry and his rig (used some flipper silicone to keep the back wall bent back far enough to make the clearance)
-face hugger binds in left sling, sticks forward, preventing contact and results in a dead sling (will tear into this tomorrow)
-the bb was damaged from pb (use the cardboard protectors and stop torquing this down so tight)
-the playfield that was like a mirror now looks like this:
IMG_20220410_002220.jpgIMG_20220410_002230.jpgIMG_20220410_002242.jpg
Scratched to hell... not sure what to make of this. The balls I took out of the machine were scratched deeply enough I could catch a ridge.
I couldn't even clean up the ball trails from in front of the flippers. I had AIQ at pinbrew last year with a crap tonne of plays and the dirt just wiped right up.
Thoughts?
Quoted from Baggerman:Hypersleep ramp... check to see if the Pbros service bulletin on "hang' applies. Did you try to mess with teh long guide post at all? I found on mine i needed to apply slight pressure on this post towards rear of pin. i did that with ball inside the mech... once it is aligned, it pops the ball out. Crazy but that is what worked.
Facehugger..check to make sure the mech is fully aligned coil and stop could be out of alignments
Balls and scratches... same here.. stock balls are shit and shoudl be tosssed on day one. Novus 2 on the bad ones and a good wax helps.
Are you able to get the dirt up from a ball trail? I'm a big guy, can put my elbow into it, have cleaned and waxed plenty of playfield huo and heavily routed, this is the first time I can't get the ball trails up with novus 2.
Went looking for the amp to dial up the sub.
I assume this is supposed to be connected...
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That is presumably a hot wire for "backbox extension out"
I was told this had a lit up backboard, mine doesn't light... I wonder if this is what that goes to?
Now I have to see if there are any molex pins laying around and get busy crimpin' or get busy dyin'.
Anyone know what this connector does? The other one does the backbox LED.
Quoted from Royale-W-Cheese:nice collection, show us a few more pics..
Quoted from Royale-W-Cheese:Very nice, never seen the machine on the left??
That is Nightmare Before Christmas Remake (NBXr).
Marki Incitti originally designed it and I remade the whole thing from scratch.
It will be at Pinbrew 2023 next year (and maybe a couple shows this year if I can get the time off).
Quoted from Sixtieskid:when did LV's start shipping?
Not sure. I know delt got his about 2 days ago.
Quoted from Dee-Bow:By scratch you mean it's not a re-themed older machine?
More pics when you have a chance would be awesome!
Correct. Original layout, custom mechs, built and coded from the ground up.
Quoted from KJS:Guys check your hypersleep lock area, the 2 holes for the optos. Mine had very bad swarf left from the manufacturer and were scratching the pinballs badly. I fixed the holes and replaced the balls with standard carbon from pinball life. I polish them up with the hole in wood trick on the buffer for a bit of bling.
I have 2 guys wanting the blue LV translite set and 2 wanting the green SV inspired set. If anyone still wants one let me know...need 5 per colour to do a run ecomically. I think I'll pull it up after this 5 so no more moving forward please. Thank you to those who contacted me and liked them! No pic of the Blue installed sorry..but looks great on the bench.
Damn Queen nearly bit my thumb off !
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What's the price and estimated shipping to the US?
Quoted from kciaccio:Is that open spot for a Halloween pin?
Yeah - I haven't moved it down there yet.
My wife loves this game. I think I need to get out the hammer drill and start setting anchors for the concrete.
Quoted from megaladon:What’s technically considered under warranty? My game is a home use game maybe 100 plays And I already got that plastic by muther hole cracked in half at the thinnest point. Would this be under warranty or just nitpicky? Just surprised they don’t send common plastics or protector or something but I bet it would break pretty often. Either way they’re doing a great job trying to keep all the customers happy and get their games working out there for all of us.
That, to me, is a casualty of war. I'd write and ask them if they'd let you buy one.
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:There is a lot of black and therefore swirl marks will show more when polishing the clear incorrectly (using the wrong cleaner and rug and fingers and/or with use/play)
It is clearcoat, therefore, it can be polished out as any other automotive clear if you do it right and with the right tools is a lot easier.
Anything painted black and clear coated has a bad tendency to show defects and with the incorrect technique you are introducing more scratches, the black colour underneath the clear makes it standout more than a lighter colour.
Polishing well by hand is very slow and tedious, people get tired and apply too much pressure to speed up the process which turns into more scratches and a mediocre polishing job.
It was asked before what cars and pinball have in common and that is clearcoat. It does not matter what substrate it is on (wood or metal) paint is paint and it behaves the same way.
If you are seeing scratches after using microfiber it is mostly due to your technique but it is an easy fix: I recommend you switch over to a forced rotation device. Meguiar’s makes a drill attachment that is great to fit inside the cab.
Lastly, Other colours are more forgiving but the scratches are atill there. If you think this is just a thing of this Pf it is not, it is just that is black and it just shows wear and tear more than a pf with more distracting colours patterns etc.Enough now of this clear nonsense, please continue with more Alien!
our Rick and Morty playfield does not exhibit this and there are over 1000 plays. Looks like a sheet of glass, comparatively.
It isn't something insignificant or "nonsense" as you call it. This is the first time I have to think about getting a freakin' drill attachment to clean up a ball trail.
This clear coat is trash (on our lv at least).
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:Interesting. I am surprised to hear this, specially after seeing these guys hammering the PF with sledgehammers.
I have never been able to get ball trails off any PF 100% by hand and not expecting this to be different on a black pf.
Rick and morty isn’t black and if you look closely I bet the trails are probably there too after cleaning just better disguised in the clear/lighter colours.
As per the nonsense, I was referring to my own explanation.I have a few hundred hours behind a polisher and know a thing or two about fixing paint (and clear) and I can put scratches on any clear with a microfiber.
Last question, if you can catch a nail on the ball trail then yes the clear is bad (deeply scratched) if not, you are just seeing it more due to the dark nature of the pf.
I am not defending PB nor the quality of the Pf,I am just trying to give me insight about paint work.
I dont think the clear is trash. Or it would not survive the sledgehammer shown in the video.
Ever clean one? Looks pretty freakin' black to me. That denesi lock 2.0 and scoop gets LOTS of travel with the ball.
Not a single scratch and no ball trails... but what do I know?
Screenshot_2022-04-14-22-44-18-35_3aea4af51f236e4932235fdada7d1643.jpgQuoted from brandonx76:Anyone know how to turn the loud shake/startup off?
And - is there a way to quit a game - like sterns"Hold Left button and start for 3 secs etc"
Hold start for like 5 seconds, quits the game.
If on first ball, you would have to add 4 players then hold in start to reset the game to 1 player, ball 1.
Quoted from Spacemanratso09:Where’s Bill Nye when you need him
I recommend https://ballbaron.com/product/pinball-carbon/ and the Polaris Carbon balls he sells. I use them in all my magnet games. I have over 400 into GB, 1000 into R&M, hundred or so into Mando, 1000 into AMH, 80 into alien (after changing the balls s/p pinbrew) and they are not magnetized at all. Plus, they shine almost as bright as chrome or their ninja(silver jet) high polish versions.
Quoted from brandonx76:Thanks - doesn't seem to quit (like Stern) rather, resets game to 1 player / start of new game. Is that right? Is there anyway to have it back out entirely to attract mode etc?
That... The answer is above (service menu)
Quoted from megaladon:Game is finally working great. Having some decal scraping on the front cabinet every time I remove the lock bar.
Same here. You can try and bend the tabs forward a bit.
Quoted from megaladon:I think it’s a great game when it’s working but it’s slowly falling breakung as I play it lol. I think a lot of it is new technology and third-party parts.I sent an email 3 days ago) to Pinball brothers and they haven’t responded back to me regarding my broken target and now my upper right flipper is completely disabled/not firing (update, actually I checked all the solder joints everything was fine but then I simply spun the coil and it started working again so it must be a wire on the inside of the sleeve, but definitely some sort of short connection). Every time I remove the glass to troubleshoot my front lock bar digs into that front decal. I think this is possibly due to the way my cabinet was put together it’s a little uneven. Don’t lose faith, the game is great and fun when it works! I know it’s a learning curve for everybody including PB Brothers and I have faith that they’ll get me working.
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Looks like mine
Quoted from brandonx76:Silly question but...those should work with the Queen mouth grab and other magnets on the game, correct?
Or Ball Baron Polaris carbon balls - high quality and shine. I use ball baron ninja and Polaris in all my games (Polaris is the kind used in magnet heavy games).
Quoted from mrm_4:Can’t wait to get the call to run over to hose this puppy down again when it catches on fire for the 3rd time fattdirk
Glutton for punishment
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Enjoy it and hope your clear coat doesn't start cracking.
IMG_20220421_220505.jpgQuoted from Pin_Fandango:Ugh, sorry man.
Can you see the crack on the underside of the insert? Curious to see if it’s the insert itself that cracked
Nope, cracks in the clear - it spiders out from there to the APC and the post right there.
Quoted from megaladon:Just curious for anybody that has an LV. Is The anti-reflective glass marked or etched by anything? Just curious of the company? Mine is pretty thin and it’s hard to tell if it is or not anti reflective?
It is antireflective. If I get a chance, I'll throw in a piece of regular glass and take some photos so you can see... it's good stuff.
Quoted from precisionk:I will ask those to check screws at times on their games. One of my drop targets was hitting the new rubber I put in, when I went to go adjust, I noticed a screw was loose. As I go to tighten, the screw head pops off. You will note in the picture the screw head had glue. I believe it was sheared off and the factory just glued the head back on without fixing the issue.
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wow
Would anyone care to snap a picture of their xeno tongue magnet dead on from the front of it? Please and thank you.
Second call - anyone care to help me out by taking a pic, head on, of the xeno tongue mech.
Thanks in advance!!
Quoted from applejuice:Question, is the shaker on at power up getting fixed soon? Kind of a bad power on effect!!
Also, it seems lv games ship with a load of cables for target lamps unplugged? Because they are not yet coded in. Strange decision, why not just leave them plugged in ready for awakening in code later. I want to plug them in but now I’m wondering if there’s a reason they aren’t?? Are other lv games like this to??
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Mine was the same.
Quoted from Chalkey:The one in Allentown left flippers weren't working when I walked up
This is because of 3 locations a spring can be installed - the default factory spot is a notch that the spring can easily slip out of.
Quoted from brandonx76:Didn't realize this, where's the preferred location to install the spring? One of mine broke, but I stretched what was left and its holding, and the other slipped out and I remounted, and stretched the connecting piece of the spring, but to the same location. Ordered spare springs, but still holding the original (even tho one broke).
I put mine through the hole in front of that slit (closest to the spring from the flipper, there is one to the rear as well).
Sure, it is easy to just slip it on but 100+m game on ball one and that sucker gets severed...
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:yes sorry, I was referring to whatever button is needed to use the firearms.
Virtuapin makes custom widebody lockdown bars (SS) with an action button (usually for TZ and the like... but would probably be able to make them with the latch style).
Quoted from Ceemunkey:I finally got around to installing Kurt's fantastic translite! To be of any competition to the quite frankly amazing LV artwork speaks volumes to its awesomeness.
Also just FYI for everyone... I had another 2 nights of issues where my machine kept locking up, freezing or restarting during play but reseating the backbox connectors (again) resolved everything. ♂️
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Looks great!
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