Anyone interested in letting some light through? Simply apply acetone to the screen print on the underside of the bottom plastic to simulate Acid Burn.

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Top rail, left rail, shooter, right rail and tail whip mod in action video. I love this game!

Anyone who has the LV change the blue powder coat?
I'm thinking of changing out the blue and doing green. I think there is way to much blue on the LV.

This is all personal taste, of course..and I think it depends on if you are an ALIEN or ALIENS fan..I personally am the age/target (gen x) to love ALIENS way more than ALIEN, and the original cast/artwork for Aliens is Blue (Green for ALIEN). I've toyed around with the idea of getting the florescent green AND blue plastic protectors (blue on the left side, green on the right) to help balance out the colors, and make it 'interesting and different'. If you end up doing green, please share pics with us, as I'm sure it will look great!

The perfect accessory for your Alien Pinball

https://www.entertainmentearth.com/product/alien-xenomorph-foam-replica-wallmounted-bust/nc51691

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Those type of things work great as a topper!

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The brighter yellow makes a big difference. I staggered the black to try something diffferent, but hopefully when I get them all painted what I am trying should make sense.

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It took 21 weapons to get there!

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Nice score!

This game is definitely a billion pointer if everything comes together. I've got a few machines now that absolutely transform into something else entirely when you light them up:

Alien
Rick and Morty
Jurassic Park

Already really great machines - but damn when you get in the zone and hit all your shots over and over again, they become transcendent (is that the right word lol)!

DANG! That is a whole lotta weapons.

Added a whole bunch of MezelMods yesterday - what a difference! I do wish they were interactive with the game.. I may try adding some light sensors as triggers on inserts, especially for the backboard light and the hypersleep chamber, but they were well worth it. The ramp return mods (the name escapes me) are a huge level up as well.

Where did you get that wall mountable bust? Is that the Prime 1 studios wall mountable bust?

I really prefer the original stuff. You can easily "over mod" these things.

Sure is, the open mouth version. I'm loving the prime one figures I've been receiving. I have been a Sideshow collector for about 25 years. I just recently received the Prime 1 Sauron, Heath Ledger Joker, and have the Museum Masterline black version Superman arriving tomorrow.

I made it to try and have the sleeper ball return on top of the rails. It works and that was my only goal, a two level ball return on a single wireform. Not sure thats ever been done before… To work I added supports, but I used Giger art style ones in the process. Its my machine in the end so it is fine for my tastes, but I understand if its not yours.

If you missed the video hopefully this shows the point of it.

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Yeah, I thought that was the prime 1 big chap. Damn looks great I know the open mouth has been long sold out. I can still get the closed mouth version been debating on it for some time. I think I'm gonna have to pick it up. How sturdy is it? Any concerns of it falling?
I have 1/3 prime 1 big chap.

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I'm kind of surprised no one has ever remade the Alien sculpt on the game to look more like this:
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I'll definitely admit those thoughts going through my head as well. I used two 50lb anchors and it hasn't budged. Even with two HSU 15 Mk2's shaking the walls in my HT. I would have preferred 1 hitting a stud but it wasn't to be.

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I was having the exact same thought today. I know it's not an easy sculpt, but surely some enterprising 3D modeler could do it! The translucent carapace is the real challenge I would imagine

You could even go the cheap route and just airbrush it.

I've been hoping a modder would make a more accurate xenomorph. Hell I would even take an alien warrior if big chap was too difficult. I thought about purchasing an additional head from PB and dremeling the dome off and applying epoxy sculpt to try and make it more accurate.

I'm surprised nobody did a 3d printer of it. I would think if done well it would sell great.

That was a major reservation of mine. Even with anchors in the studs I'd still have anxiety, but damn that looks good. You have some pretty cool pieces. I mainly collect star wars and movie ( horror and si-fy pieces)

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Nice! My collection has ebbed and flowed over the past 30ish years but I collect similar type of items.

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I am building whipping tail and animated hand sets as requested. If you are interested please pm or email Loganpinball@optonline to get them. The set includes the animated hand and tail together. The tail and hand are both painted black. They are very easy to install and the tail is driven mechanically by the ball. The hand is linked to the jaw pivot (metal tab) and is easy to install. You just need to remove the xeno head and thats 2 screws. Working on directions now. I updated my topic and thanks to baptise for asking questions to clarify the ad.
Shipped to U.S. $335 for both pieces. Other locations please email me.

Here is a video of the mods so you can understand what they are and dont have to dig around to find them. I can make the tail wireform with or without upper guides as requested.

Please pm me or email to have them built.

That looks really cool the way the light shines through. I'd have to practice on some junk plastics before I'm brave enough to try this. What brand acetone did you use and did you apply with a brush or cloth? If you get a chance could you take a pic from the distance of the players head?

Thanks for sharing all of this info. You really nailed it and so cool how you used that LED on the node board to trigger the mini Becans. I never would have thought of that.

Also... I'll be all over those PINNUNCIATOR pcbs when they are available.

Thinking....If going the DIY route I bet using one of these can eliminate the Arduino completely. Just need to wire normally closed then when the led goes out on the node board the mini Becans turn on.

https://www.amazon.com/Excelity-Photosensitive-Resistor-Module-Photo-resistor/dp/B07TGKNDRB/ref=sr_1_1

I'm going to integrate a couple of those into the Mezelmods I just bought. Their designs are amazing and add a lot to the game, but I found the lack of game integration lacking a bit. I want the Hypersleep chamber mod to light up only when that lock is qualified, and make some changes to the backboard lighting and integrate that in with the GI.

It also drives me crazy there's no spotlight on the Xenomorph when it grabs the ball!

I just found this, " PLEASE NOTE: You must update your game code for make your game works correctly with this FW."

Sorry, if you guys already saw this. I've been hunting for this for like a month. I will not make it as a detective...

Ah! See I didn't know about those, but again this is all new to me. I might grab a few of those to play with. One thing that was mentioned to me is it may even be possible to just use the beacons all on their own using the trigger lead, but in my playing around with it I could never get it to do what I wanted using that as the trigger. This just happened to be the solution I figured out that worked. I was already messing with the Sentry code, and the beacons were an after thought during that process. I'm guessing there are lots of alternative ways.

I've not looked further yet, but my assumption is that the board LED's correspond to lots of different optos and could potentially be used for other triggers if they act the same way.

Is there a new firmware released? Where did you see that message ?

How do you enable (switch between) the different modes those small beacons have?
1/. Strobing-blasting, Flashing Mode.
2/. Fast-slow Rotating Mode.
For example the large beacon(s) mod from Lermods uses the switch on it's 12volt automotive switch to switch between different flashing and rotating modes.

The same, apply voltage to the yellow lead and it will switch between modes each time you apply. No more than 6v.

Let us know how you make out with all those ideas. IMO the hypersleep lock situation has the least amount cool stuff happening so having an interactive mod for that is very needed.

I really need to mess around with an Arduino. What you guys are doing with the Sentry gun toys and servos is just awesome.

My pet-peeve are any lighting that is "always on". I tie all mine,include the hypersleep mezel mod to the GI, so when the GI goes dark, so does the mod.

Thank you!

I think all acetone is the same, so the brand shouldn't matter. I applied it by just dunking a torx driver head in acetone and letting it drip onto the plastic. Acetone dries so quickly you have to keep dripping it on to keep it soaking. 20-30 drips to start seeing the paint dissolve. It will eat it away unevenly giving it a natural melt look Please note: most of the plastic where I applied the acetone is no longer clear and will be cloudy. I applied uv paint (clear to green) afterwords with a plan to put some black lights in, so the cloudyness does't bother me.

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How did you integrate with the GI? I'm not that familar with the wiring on this game yet. What I'd really like to do is keep the main pod thing lit with the GI, and the hypersleep chamber itself tied to the insert. I think I may have to open up the mod, which may be messy... but I think that would be ideal.

I prefer "standalone" mods that don't run the risk of frying boards. I used a photoresister as a trigger input to the logic level mosfet. I connected a pot from the gate to ground so I could adjust the trigger level (RGB leds are not as bright as cool-white leds). Just a simple light-detection switch. You could do the same from the insert for the sleep chamber.
It's a common switching circuit I use in a lot of my pins for GI or insert triggered mods.

Pretty much my exact plan. Nicely done! Sounds like you wired everything up from bare parts. I’m happy to pay the $6 to get a wired-up board with wire clamps and a mini-pot but this is even less expensive!

I've programmed a simple slow sweep to both of my Sentry Guns..I have the script (copy/paste) if anyone wants to try it, and mod it further beyond my coding skills (the only thing I would like changed is having each gun sweep in the oppisite directions)
They run when the machine is on..nothing fancy with triggers on my guns; I feel the slow sweeping motion, all the time, really makes the gameplay xp pretty well balanced, and not intrusive. I suppose I could play with triggers at some point, but not atm. it's a badass effect, having them in the upper right PF.

Back on Dec 16. Version .71. I was wondering why my flippers staging being turned on wasn't doing anything. So I contacted support and they noticed right away from the video that I sent, my firmware was not current. I was still on .57. pinball brothers website downloads page has it listed.

I finally got around to changing the dreadful white side light led's. Previously I installed dimmers for each side and that made a world of difference but I still was not satisfied. I still have to do the other side but I think this will be amazing. It's more ambient then the picture looks.

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Side by side.

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Should be interesting to see both sides ! I just installed a backboard light - this game is such a fine line with the lighting. It should be fairly dark, but there are lots of areas with NO light whatsoever, but interesting artwork.

Here's a better look.

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Seems to defeat the purpose to me. I upgraded to the LV because the SV was too dark.

But if you like the ambience better then the light, it will work well for you.

Is that whats lighhting the blades? Are they not EL? I rather liked the HWY ones, are these not the same?

Oh, and a side note, I tried hooking up my small targets, but only 1 of my boards had the hookup for them lol. Damn early adopters.

Thanks for the help my Hypersleep Lock seems to be working fine after I adjusted the screw on the bottom.

I need to adjust my Airlock as it is shooting balls right into the left sling every time. There is a diagram of how to adjust it but I'm still a little confused as to how I should bend the airlock metal, I want to know what I'm doing before I start bending. It seems to indicate a rotation with the pliers, any insight I need the ball to come out more to the right so it can land on the left flipper.

I had the same problem and adjusted it all in settings by lowering the power.

Yeah, I have the backlight unplugged for now.

It's probably not for everyone. I just think that the lighted blades end product was a real missed opportunity. I wish they would of been fully addressable rgb led's that interact with the game code. After simply dimming the white and eventually switching to blue, I've noticed how great the play field lighting code is. They still throw plenty of light and do not drown out the awesome lighting effects during game play.