Thanks for the kind words, will do.

Turns out it was a bad coil. I replaced it with a spare and now back in action.

When doing playfield swaps and such, I perfer to use tapered drill bits when I can to open up previously drilled holes like for posts and such...no gouging the playfield and it keeps the hole concentric.

Same here >

Ah - might have to get in touch with Mezel then, I guess the cables aren't quite right.

Not as cool as I imagined it but here is my mini becan triggered by the right magnet grab using a reed switch. I've included a bench test video to show how it works. Was tricky to place it on the magnet because they are weaker than a stern magnet.

In action

Same technique was used to mod the stasis mod but this time a reed switch was placed on each post coil.

The image wasn't my final placement but you get the idea. It's a primitive technique but keeps the game completely safe using a switching power supply.

20230311_161548 (resized).jpg

That's a cheat! Nice work. I like that idea a lot.

Haven't had a chance to dig into triggers yet. But I'm redesigning my original idea and the triggers part is something I'm a bit fuzzy on.

Thanks man. I'm the Forest Gump of mods. Can't wait to see your Sentry Guns rocking and rolling. I haven't even ordered an arduino yet let alone tinker with servo code.

I like the Mezel Mods trusses but they were a bit too monotone for me. First I added some aging (bottom truss is original color):

D3624811-8DD2-4BCA-8D39-51E1B498D8F7 (resized).jpeg

Then I had a little fun and added some acid to match the acid on the Evolution apron:

12094C97-E3CC-4790-9D48-823702C2CAEF (resized).jpeg

Looks awesome. How's the fitment of those? I have seen mixed reviews.

yeah that is pretty clever, like Zablon was saying..this is exactly what the Grogu mod is doing with the ramp diverter trigger, etc..Seems like the beacons would really be a great independent show on their own..good call!

It's finicky - the instructions are old and refer to torx screws which are no longer used on the newer games. The natural inclination is to use the washer on top of the connectors when it really needs to go on the bottom. The connectors are super tight too because the screw heads are taller than the old torx heads. But once you get all that figured out, it fits nice and tight.

D1FB20CC-5FD3-4279-A195-686FB07024F3 (resized).jpeg

Does anyone have the issue of their fuses being knocked loose? Particularly the one that controls the right flippers and ball launch? I have to reset it all the time. I tried using electric tape to keep it in place but to no avail. Any recommendations?

that's really a great look. GJ on that = L E G I T

when you say knocked loose do you mean the clip and fuse come out/undone won't stay hooked? or the clip is staying but the fuse moves around inside?

The hooks on these are kind of flakey.

Yes, I put a dab of hot glue on all my fuses and USB connections. Others have posted this product.

MG Chemicals 1035-80ML Non Corrosive Translucent 1-Part RTV Silicone Adhesive Sealant, 85 ml Tube https://a.co/d/iTwhdlD

Looks really cool what you did. Also seems like they are higher than the stock plastic giving the ball more clearance. Say someone wanted to mount a small sentry gun on top it may be possible with this.

Any chance you could snap a pic with the ball under the open circle?

Shawn from PB told me if you have a loose fuse try switching the fuses and caps from one to another. There can be some play in them and that might help seat them fully, which is what your issue is if the fuse isn’t actually blown.

They are higher than the stock plastic.

Thanks for the info. Did you have to alter the mod to fit like in the mezel reviews I read?

I wrote one of the reviews lol. The bracket that holds the space truss that goes right up against the shooter wire form was protruding into the wire form and blocking the ball from launching. So I filed down that one piece to perfectly match the edge of the wire form and it looks perfect it holds perfect and I haven’t had any problems since. I definitely like the space truss much better than the plastic.

I think I'm going to go for it. Not sure how you painted the aged effect but after seeing what you did I have to try.

Same technique. Here is a led strip triggered red by the center magnet. Got some nice flickering from upping the pulses a little in settings. Some other weekend I'll flash it green with the hypersleep coil and blue or yellow with the scoop eject.

Nothing groundbreaking here but all the subtle lighting tweaks add up.

Just edited my post earlier about the Alien mini jaw mod. Here's a link to the thread: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/alien-mini-jaw-mod#post-7462315

It's just a black wash. Paint on a water based black paint and wipe it off with a paper towel.

I unboxed my Alien LV yesterday. It went pretty well. The only major issue I uncovered was that the playfield glass had a really poor fit and it nearly fell into the cab (I got it wedged with the top of the glass below the trim at the top of the rail). Is this just my game or are others seeing this too? The glass was also very thin compared to my other sheets.

My glass is exactly the same - it fits so loosely that it sometimes drops out of one of the channels and just barely hangs on the edge of the cabinet side.

I don't know what to do other than order a new glass from a local glass company that's slightly wider.

I definitely do not have that problem. I'd recommend contacting PB for sure.

Same thing here. I have to be careful while installing the glass. It's seems that my cabinet is not square and gets a little wider towards the back of the machine. Also, the glass seems to vibrate more because of this. I bought some anti rattle glass tape for the edge of the glass but have not installed yet.

Mine has the opposite issue, it's pretty tight. I usually have to pull it out with both hands from the bottom. I do agree, it's the thinnest glass I've ever owned.

Opposite. My glass was so tight it required two people to slide it back in. When I got a slice of voodoo glass it was worse. Fixed by using a heat gun to realign the plastic on the top.

There must have been a change in glass since I got mine. It’s just as thick as my other games and fits well. I would contact pbbros for sure

Never mind mine is a SV, so different glass all together I believe

I don’t have any issues with the fit on the glass, but mine also is pretty thin and has some coating defects because there are small splotches that I can clean off but then they come back so I’m assuming it’s some sort of defect with the antiglare coating. I was one of the first LV shipped and I should’ve said something and got a new glass because it is annoying. On a separate note did anybody else upgrade their alien light posts and experience them turning blue after a certain stage and stay blue? Just wondering if that’s a bug?

yeah, the LV's are thinner because they have an anti-reflective coating on them, where the SV is standard glass..But the AR glass is not as good as voodoo or invi, but still provides an improvement over standard glass..but being thinner doesn't seem like the best idea..well, it is what it is..this is for those that didn't know the diff on glass between the SV/LV..

This is my first optical glass other than PDI and the 1 sheet of Invisiglass I had on my WOZ and I definitely find it harder to get perfectly clean... and then once I do, the face hugger tails in the slings smudge the inside where they hit the glass lol.

I just turned on 2 stage flippers. Adjusted my flipper leaf switches and inside the test menu the lower fires first then the upper on each side. The problem is that while in game play they just fire simultaneously on either side. How did you get your to work?

Thanks all for the replies. I confirmed my cab is like a cheese wedge with a ~5mm/0.2" diff between the bottom and to top measured across the side rails.

I turned on 2 stage in the menu. I adjusted my leaf switches. I tested, in switch test, lower first then upper registers. Same for both left and right. Then in game play they don't stage. Just both at the same time. What's up with this? Anyone run into this?

I was chuffed to discover 2-stage was on by default on my LV. It works flawless and this game just feels more and more like a Bally/WMS Super Pin the more I play it.

You may have to adjust the gap in the flipper leafs. The first connection/contact (nearest flipper button) should make contact last as it is for the upper flippers and as the flipper gets depressed further it closes the second connection, which is for the lower flippers.

Ahh, so you are saying that the idea is to trap the ball on upper flippers and flip with the lower flippers. Or are you saying second is not last?

ThatWouldBeAChallengePunkin

I think I figured out it's not the easiest thing to explain after reading what i wrote,lol. Basically the way the leaf works (at least on mine, could be wired backwards) the furthest contact away from the button needs to close first as it is for the lower flippers. Once the flipper button is fully depressed it will close the contact nearest the flipper button. Also, if you adjust the top of the leaf so it has a little tension on the back of the button it will feel nice and springy.

Just yanking your chain brother.

I hit the flippers way too hard anyway for two stage to make a real difference during game.

Never used them either, below average player here.

Wait you guys are saying you don't trap the ball with the top flipper? Amateurs!

Just throwing this out there..I know many of you paid more, but I'm telling you paying $7777 a few years ago for everything this game has seems like a steal compared to everything else coming out now.

15kau for an SV here

Two games in a row went south from the ball getting stuck on the hypersleep ramp. Mech seems to be trapping it.

Was it my imagination or did someone just have this problem. Curious if it's easy to fix.

20230313_190227 (resized).jpg

Mine were wired backwards. Should be that the closest leaf to the button controls the flipper closest to the button. Trap the ball on the lower and......Wait are you messing with me? Hahaha. Seriously though. It's not working on mine either way it's wired. I did try it both ways. In test mode it's correct. During game it just doesn't work. Also, my games were both taking 4 coins on the left or 4 coins on the right to start a game. However in the audits one of the coin mechs showed $1 per coin instead of $ .25 per coin. First week I thought it earned about double any other game has ever earned. Until I looked for the problem. I knew that couldn't have been right. Anyone else have this game on location and seeing this?

I had the early bird SV for $7777 and it's way more game than anything I've seen this month. Ok, GF is rather packed, but not compared to any of the others.