(Topic ID: 284032)

"Morning MU/TH/UR" Pinball Brothers Alien Remake Owners Club

By Red_Devils

1 year ago


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  • 11,358 posts
  • 456 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 minutes ago by brado426
  • Topic is favorited by 202 Pinsiders

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“What are you in on an SE or LV?”

  • LV 62 votes
    33%
  • SE 59 votes
    32%
  • Not interested in this game 65 votes
    35%

(186 votes)

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There are 11,358 posts in this topic. You are on page 226 of 228.
#11251 10 days ago
Quoted from zeuszamora:

Any luck fixing your game? I’m having the same problem.

That issues turned out to be a fuze. There are three under the playfield. It was the right most of the three.

#11252 10 days ago
Quoted from Mageek:

The main issue with the spinners is the physical contact pressure with the microswitch blade. You should be able to bend the switch blade and adjust the switch height such that the spinner sit straight vertically and spins freely but still makes enough contact to make the switch. You may also need to tweak the spinner bracket and the spinner wire itself. The spinners need to sit perfectly vertical to work properly or it’s a real buzz kill.
The pop bumpers will need the switch gap adjusted and the actuator centered on the spoon. You can google “pop bumper repair” if you are not familiar with how they work. They should be very active when properly adjusted.
You cannot remove any material from the xeno switch or it will not function, it will get stuck and break. You can however bend the top of the metal inward as described by brado426 in one of his posts. Add nuts on the back of the switch bracket to lock the bolts in place on the switch if they don’t already have them.

The problem is the bottom is too far forward. The ball bricks on the bottom.

Thoughts?

4FF14962-5AE0-4CE1-85AD-5150DC7B329C (resized).jpegB36C8CF1-61A1-4AFC-A374-6FA48E4B4598 (resized).jpeg
#11253 10 days ago

Looks like you need to spin the wire so it is more inline with the spinner? It looks off center (if you look at it from the side). I believe the wire should be parallel with the spinner, not at an angle. Not really sure this is possible without causing it to spin freely though. Just seems that the bends are not level with the spinner itself causing it to be at an angle when the wires are at their 'bottom'.

#11254 10 days ago
Quoted from c818919taylor:

The problem is the bottom is too far forward. The ball bricks on the bottom.
Thoughts? [quoted image][quoted image]

If/when a ball goes through the orbit this position of rejection is where the spinner ends up at naturally 6.5 times out of ten. At least like to get this to two/three…

The games that the player doesnt catch a break with the spinner are frustrating. Particularly, because (imo) this shot is the crux of the game.

#11255 10 days ago

I have never had an issue with the spinner on mine...but it seems to be a common issue. I'll take a look at mine and take some pics of how it sits normally, how the wire angles are, etc...

It really does look like on that one the wires are not correctly aligned with the spinner itself, but I'll check mine.

#11256 10 days ago
Quoted from c818919taylor:

The problem is the bottom is too far forward. The ball bricks on the bottom.
Thoughts? [quoted image][quoted image]

Hold the bracket with one hand and use your other hands thumb to push the spinner towards back of playfield. This will bend the arms and the spinner will sit straight or best case slightly tilted toward player

#11257 10 days ago
Quoted from c818919taylor:

If/when a ball goes through the orbit this position of rejection is where the spinner ends up at naturally 6.5 times out of ten. At least like to get this to two/three…
The games that the player doesnt catch a break with the spinner are frustrating. Particularly, because (imo) this shot is the crux of the game.

Lots of suggestions here , you may need to do more than one of them, but in my experience you can see from the picture the switch blade is most likely putting too much pressure on the spinner leg forcing it up , hold the switch leaf down and give it a couple spins to see where it ends up. If straight then bend the switch leaf until it doesn’t force it, but still makes the switch actuate. You can also put a microscopic amount of very thin lubricant on top of the switch leg , also you can loosen the switch screws and try to move the switch down a bit.

4DE18E9F-266F-4821-9974-D28E0D5E1033 (resized).jpeg

#11258 10 days ago
Quoted from Mattyk:

Hold the bracket with one hand and use your other hands thumb to push the spinner towards back of playfield. This will bend the arms and the spinner will sit straight or best case slightly tilted toward player

So, to get the bottom (of the spinner) to go toward the playfield, pull forward?

The bottom need to drop down a few degrees. Say 25°. Currently, sits at 210° & need to be about 240°ish….

#11259 10 days ago
Quoted from c818919taylor:

So, to get the bottom (of the spinner) to go toward the playfield, pull forward?
The bottom need to drop down a few degrees. Say 25°. Currently, sits at 210° & need to be about 240°ish….

I’m 99% sure you push the spinner toward back of playfield so that the bottom of spinner tilts away from player. That is ideal.

I hope I don’t have my pull/push instruction reversed but should be easy to see how the spinner reacts after a slight amount of force.

I’d look into the switch arm putting excess pressure on the spinner first as mentioned above

#11260 10 days ago
Quoted from Mageek:

Lots of suggestions here , you may need to do more than one of them, but in my experience you can see from the picture the switch blade is most likely putting too much pressure on the spinner leg forcing it up , hold the switch leaf down and give it a couple spins to see where it ends up. If straight then bend the switch leaf until it doesn’t force it, but still makes the switch actuate. You can also put a microscopic amount of very thin lubricant on top of the switch leg , also you can loosen the switch screws and try to move the switch down a bit.
[quoted image]

Double checked. Clearness is good.

The spinners natural resting position is a poor angle.

35D8AAD2-6B76-455B-BC51-F06F67CF064F (resized).jpeg421BAB5E-4EA5-49BE-843D-9308B3C4671C (resized).jpeg95BD68FC-5ED0-4022-98E9-5251122E350F (resized).jpeg
#11261 10 days ago
Quoted from Mattyk:

I’m 99% sure you push the spinner toward back of playfield so that the bottom of spinner tilts away from player. That is ideal.
I hope I don’t have my pull/push instruction reversed but should be easy to see how the spinner reacts after a slight amount of force.
I’d look into the switch arm putting excess pressure on the spinner first as mentioned above

99% sure a player wants a slight lean of the bottom of the spinner toward the player. But not so much to brick.

The amount of physical time the ball has on the spinner (in this manner) is a more effective use of physics.

#11262 10 days ago

See how this sits? Doesn't yours match this?

pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png
#11263 10 days ago
Quoted from c818919taylor:

99% sure a player wants a slight lean of the bottom of the spinner toward the player. But not so much to brick.
The amount of physical time the ball has on the spinner (in this manner) is a more effective use of physics.

Definitely wanted tilted slightly away from player or straight up and down

#11264 10 days ago
Quoted from c818919taylor:

Double checked. Clearness is good.
The spinners natural resting position is a poor angle. [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

The actuator on the switch needs to be bent upward, I did that on both spinners, they work great now, don’t Bend the wire on the spinner

#11265 10 days ago
Quoted from Chosen_S:

The actuator on the switch needs to be bent upward, I did that on both spinners, they work great now, don’t Bend the wire on the spinner

I disagree with this. Mine does not touch that when it is in resting position. The issue looks like his wire was not shaped parallel to the spinner itself. I'm not sure that bending the wire is the best solution, but I don't think bending the actuator is going to be a long term fix as the spinner should not be relying on that switch wire to keep it in place. It should be relying on the balance of the spinner/wire keeping it up and down. It's resting at an angle because the wire is at an angle.

#11266 10 days ago
Quoted from Zablon:

See how this sits? Doesn't yours match this?[quoted image][quoted image]

More like brick. See how the whole picture (on the playfield) is missing from the position of this one?
05938DC3-30D0-4772-AB8B-DCA8FB39AE29 (resized).jpegB282C6FE-0BAE-4124-B512-C6F0F2D1068E (resized).jpeg

#11267 10 days ago
Quoted from Chosen_S:

The actuator on the switch needs to be bent upward, I did that on both spinners, they work great now, don’t Bend the wire on the spinner

to stop it from resting in this postion......

ill see....

#11268 10 days ago
Quoted from c818919taylor:

to stop it from resting in this postion......
ill see....

This is what I had to do. Just bent up the switch arm to provide enough tension to keep it level. I couldn’t get it right any other way.

#11269 10 days ago
Quoted from paulbaptise:

This is what I had to do. Just bent up the switch arm to provide enough tension to keep it level. I couldn’t get it right any other way.

Same here... My right spinner would keep stopping upside-down so the ball would never hit it. Switch arm pressure totally fixed the problem. It has been over a year and still working perfectly.

#11270 10 days ago
Quoted from c818919taylor:

More like brick. See how the whole picture (on the playfield) is missing from the position of this one?
[quoted image][quoted image]

I typo'd that. It should have said "does your".

This is what I am trying to get across as the possible issue, but I can't tell from your pictures for certain if this is what is going on or not.
pasted_image (resized).png

#11271 10 days ago
Quoted from brado426:

Same here... My right spinner would keep stopping upside-down so the ball would never hit it. Switch arm pressure totally fixed the problem. It has been over a year and still working perfectly.

Yes. This worked. Bend the tab up to stop the spinner from spinning to a bad spot when it finishes spinning…just a touch of tension.

Not like an manager, peer, or lawmaker (pushing madness, unethical behavior, foolish/faulty economics). Slight pressure to get the spinner to act correctly. Not illogical, psychopathic, bullying predatory pressure on the spinner.

Slight. This will keep the spinner in the position not to brick the pinball.

Careful on the right spinner. The problem definitely might be the spinner is hitting the plastic.

#11272 8 days ago

Dumb question - if I want to add additional backlighting to the backbox, is there an auxiliary plug in the pin or best place to attach? Also, can you turn the existing led’s off? Thx and Happy Thanksgiving all.

#11273 8 days ago
Quoted from matlynch91:

Dumb question - if I want to add additional backlighting to the backbox, is there an auxiliary plug in the pin or best place to attach? Also, can you turn the existing led’s off? Thx and Happy Thanksgiving all.

The common approach has been to add a power supply for additional lighting to not overload the PC. The backbox lighting can be physically disconnected.

#11274 8 days ago
Quoted from Mageek:

This is what I used, sling switch, target foam, piece of the original pcb with connector and soldered the switch lugs to the existing connector. Played hundreds of games with no switch issues. They’ll likely never code the light in them anyway.
[quoted image]

Mageek do you still have these modded switches running or using V3 switches? I am considering doing this mod. My V3 were great to start but now have been having less hits which makes the combat drop mode painful.

#11275 8 days ago

Welds on the ball guide broke. Ugh.

9306036C-71D1-4027-AC42-B6559FB864D5 (resized).jpeg
#11276 8 days ago
Quoted from AD72:

Mageek do you still have these modded switches running or using V3 switches? I am considering doing this mod. My V3 were great to start but now have been having less hits which makes the combat drop mode painful.

I was until I put the V3s back in to see how the lights look but only 2 of them work so I'll put my modded ones back in if anything happens to any of the V3s

#11277 8 days ago

When conducting an edge test of the hypersleep lock, the first ball reads 57, when the second ball locks does it read 58?

#11278 8 days ago
Quoted from AD72:

Welds on the ball guide broke. Ugh.[quoted image]

Yeah they are shit, especially if over tightened at factory. Submit a ticket and ask for warranty replacement. They have these in the USA i beleive.

#11279 8 days ago

Get some JB weld and mix a small portion. Put a dab on it, then fasten it with a zip tie for 24 hours. Feel free to play in that time. Cut zip tie after it’s cured. I did that at my location so I didn’t have to take it off the floor. Worked great and is still in place.

Quoted from AD72:

Welds on the ball guide broke. Ugh.[quoted image]

#11280 7 days ago
Quoted from c818919taylor:

When conducting an edge test of the hypersleep lock, the first ball reads 57, when the second ball locks does it read 58?

Correct. Lock 1 is sw57, Lock 2 is sw58 and Lock 3 is sw59

#11281 7 days ago
Quoted from AD72:

Welds on the ball guide broke. Ugh.[quoted image]

Im sure PBros support would help you with a replacement!

#11282 7 days ago
Quoted from mitchzizzle:

Im sure PBros support would help you with a replacement!

They sent mine out pretty quick .The one sent seemed much more sturdy .

#11283 7 days ago
Quoted from Kkoss24:

They sent mine out pretty quick .The one sent seemed much more sturdy .

I got a replacement and and it snapped while putting it on. Same exact craftsmanship in my experience. I just zip tied and moved on. I’ve had much bigger Issues to tackle with my game.

All that to say they will definitely get you one out quickly.

#11284 7 days ago

Yeah my right ramp welds broke too - they really need to find a better wireform guy.

Credit to PB though they had a new one out to me within the space of a week (and to get it here to Australia that's really quick).

#11285 7 days ago
Quoted from Ceemunkey:

Yeah my right ramp welds broke too - they really need to find a better wireform guy.
Credit to PB though they had a new one out to me within the space of a week (and to get it here to Australia that's really quick).

Got an email from Shawn right away. Will be shipping one out Friday. That is fast response!

#11286 7 days ago
Quoted from Manny65:Correct. Lock 1 is sw57, Lock 2 is sw58 and Lock 3 is sw59

Anyone had to adjust the hypersleep lock? Mine didnt read 57. Now it does but not 58 & 59.

Is there a sweet stop im looking for in the adjustment. Seemed like one turn (of the adjustment) was the difference between where 57 was picked up & 58…..

#11287 7 days ago
Quoted from c818919taylor:

Anyone had to adjust the hypersleep lock? Mine didnt read 57. Now it does but not 58 & 59.
Is there a sweet stop im looking for in the adjustment. Seemed like one turn (of the adjustment) was the difference between where 57 was picked up & 58…..

Nope…can’t get a ball to make it up the ramp to tell if the switches are working or not.

#11288 6 days ago

Does anyone know exactly which AR glass is on the LV? Is it one of the brands already out there or is it PB's own version? I've only ever owned PDI and this glass is a pain (comparativly) to get\keep clean.

#11289 6 days ago

Happy to say I had my sv on all day yesterday for the holiday without lockup or error. Surprising to me was the adults played it a lot more than the kids. The kids seemed to prefer Shadow.

#11290 6 days ago

So, I received my Alien LV last week and the issues I have is:

Left side blade not working new one is being sent out.
Coin door lights do not work! I'm not getting any voltage to the coin door probably need a new cabinet box. Still haven't resolved this issue with PB.
Red Dot on display... was told to play for a while and see if it comes back on. Can't fix a dead pixel but maybe this one is stuck? time will tell.

My Thoughts.......... Awesome Game I can't stop playing it. A little clunky but it is a wide body and so is Data East GNR. Coils Overheat and flippers become weak. Customer support is Extremely fast. As long as PB make good on the issues I am having then I would be Fine with this purchase and this company.

#11291 6 days ago
Quoted from Derekk:

My Thoughts.......... Awesome Game I can't stop playing it. A little clunky but it is a wide body and so is Data East GNR. Coils Overheat and flippers become weak. Customer support is Extremely fast. As long as PB make good on the issues I am having then I would be Fine with this purchase and this company.

Im here when you need me, my data supports your claim:

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1391-ravspec/07046-extended-play-coil-coolers-pinball-brothers-alien

#11292 6 days ago

Joining the club shortly. Swapped a nice Theatre of magic for an SV.

Looking forward to having another widebody in the house, everyone loves a fat bottomed girl.

#11293 6 days ago

Huh, this is interesting... trying to diagnose a whine that pops up after the machine has been on for 20-30 minutes, so I tore down the power supply. While the 80mm is powered as expected, the little 40mm fan isn't plugged in, and there's no spot for the connector! Wonder why it's still included in the build.

IMG_0901 (resized).jpeg
#11294 5 days ago
Quoted from punkin:

Joining the club shortly. Swapped a nice Theatre of magic for an SV.
Looking forward to having another widebody in the house, everyone loves a fat bottomed girl.

Welcome aboard Punkin! It’s a damn good game.

#11295 5 days ago

See how we go. There's a lot for sale here. But it's a free bet.....?

#11296 5 days ago
Quoted from Aurich:

No worries, it's a bit confusing how things worked in that time period.
Also, remember that back then it was a constant game of changing specs. Originally the games only had a playfield display, and the backglass was big. Then they started adding the giant backbox displays, and there was little room for art at all. Things that were designed got tossed.
When PB standardized on the single standard sized backbox LCD they came to me and asked if I would redo my original full LE art to be the LV one with room for the LCD. I took that opportunity to add more detail and color.
And of course now with a 'standard' cab design the old side art was way too small, so redid that to match, got to work with them on the powdercoat color, basically put together a cohesive package. Which is why it's nicer than the old Heighway stuff, because adults calmly sat down, made a plan, and worked together to get it all set.

Aurich - Powder coat color is perfect if you ask me. Goes SO well with the cabinet art and isn’t just a color to have color like a lot of pins out there. Awesome job!!!

#11297 5 days ago

Staring to get game Re boot while playing now happened a few times in a row, machine has been pretty solid since I did a re build many weeks ago.
Back story is game had occasional black main screen on boot up.

#11298 5 days ago
Quoted from skywalker:

Staring to get game Re boot while playing now happened a few times in a row, machine has been pretty solid since I did a re build many weeks ago.
Back story is game had occasional black main screen on boot up.

Are you on System Update 3.0?

#11299 5 days ago
Quoted from brado426:

Are you on System Update 3.0?

Yep

#11300 5 days ago

After that happens, make sure you take a log and attach is to the ticket when you submit to PB. That never happens on my SV with 3.0.

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