Curious what the feedback is on this.. What Stern switch is being recommended? Is there a part number?

I definitely felt the game was very 'floaty' when I first started playing..but this I understand it typical of bally/williams games...I can say the more I play the more I'm able to make shots, and there's definitely some great 'flow' happening now that i've gotten better. I boosted each bottom flipper up 15% based on feedback I heard from another owner (he made a video and mentioned this). That ball lock is hard...I've made it many times but I don't think more than one ball has gotten in during a single game and I don't think I ever 'planned' it

I get the frustration - hang in there - its a great game once it's dialed in. PB Support has been pretty solid so far.

Here's the list of issues I've had but most of them have been addressed:

1. Power On - Screen doesn't display, have to reboot, sometimes 2-3 times, mostly 1 time

2. Xeno Mech - SW Error 1 - Tried adjusting screws and shifting nylon block. Re-secured the switch mounts. Adjusted the switch after several temps, made no difference:

(Replacement mech being shipped free of charge, arrives next Thursday)

3. Bottom Right Flipper - stuck up (Right Spring broke, stretched remaining spring part and hasn't failed yet but bought new springs)

4. Bottom Left Flipper (stuck up). Spring came loose. Bought spare springs - Sega/Stern Flipper Extension Spring 265-5035-00. haven't installed.

5. Drop ball into launch - Stuck on launch wire - fix - bent/stretched wire

6. Launch failing - Shape of coil mount slightly crooked. Caused launch to get stuck. Fix: partial rebuild / align / rescrew coil and mount. Used "Loctite Blue" on screws (screws did not hold otherwise).

7. Cabinet front door - hard to shut - Not sure what's causing this - have to give it a good slam to get in position to lock - sometimes lock get stuck. Noticed a fallen off / loose screw on the inside- remounted - still hard to shut (not fixed)

8. Egg/Pop Bumbers did not function when the ball hit them - Adjusted leaf switches to make the 'closer' used a pair of pliers - but bought a leaf adjustment tool for future. Because they are considered 'low quality', heard these can be changed out with Stern part (need to confirm)

9. APC/Drop Targets - seem to be very sensitive - and sometimes "C" and "P" drop down at vibration or flipper click - or barely touch. Was advised to attempt alignment of the drop target piece. Not seeing how the alignment is off, haven't attempted removing the part entirely from the playfield to inspect further.

I think that's it - only ones that are really bothering me at 1,7 and 9. Everything else has been solved or has an easy work around.

If you guys cant get up the hypersleep lock then my guess is you should try to lower the game pitch. I told myself I like my game 'fast' and was close to opening a tixket complaining how hard that shot is - but I lowered the pitch and now it is not even that difficult if well timed. I do find that my upper RH flipper needs at least +10% to the coil also. I think the coil settings sometimes dont 'take' right away and if you dont think it worked maybe power cycle and try changing it again? Gotta get the ghosts out of these new machines..

If you're seriously worried about the kids being scared I would just keep it off when they are around. He'll, almost all of your games are scary lol

Don't give up on it yet mate! If it helps, I've noticed connector issues in several spots on my game and it's caused some very weird behaviour. The start up issue I had sounds the same as yours - the PB logo comes up and just sits there stuck. I traced that back to a really shonky USB connector in the cabinet box because I could feel it had wriggled itself loose, and it really doesn't sit properly in its connection when it's plugged in. I've had to "secure' it in place for the time being just to stop it moving around while playing. Anyway, since securing that (basically with a bit of putty lol)I haven't had the startup issue, so for sure check that usb plug. I can give pics if necessary.

I *have* had some other problems since - such as tilt warnings firing randomly, phantom switch hits, the start button no longer working and the monitor not coming on even though the machine appears to start up ok. Also one of my pop bumpers is not lighting up. Pretty much all of these (besides the pop bumper) appear to have caused by connectors so far. I think, as others have said the wiring on this machine is very secure - perhaps too much, so that any movement of the machine can pull connections free, and I've had the playfield in/out quite a bit putting in mods, checking things over etc...

I doubt there's a whole lot wrong with your machine it just feels like it. The guys on here and PB will get us all up and running 100% and once it is I think it'll be solid. I think we just have to be a little patient with this one at the start.

Someone should mention to PB to put “service loop-slack” in the wires / connectors. Don’t pull super tight.

The tight wiring harness appears to be a recurring complaint. Has anyone spoke with PB yet about the importance of having some slack with the wiring? It's pretty important.

"Assholes and elbows"

The connector for the right coin slot light hits the edge of the PF, forcing/bending the connector down in order for the coin door to close - see pics.

Alien Coin Door issue (resized).jpgAlien Coin Door globe connector (resized).jpg

To give it more space to allow the coin door to close more easily, I simply bent both the connectors on the right coin slot to be angled down at 45 degrees. It's a simple fix.

I had both and felt the same way. GNR got old for me quick. Got so sick of shooting that left ramp, got sick of the songs. Once I got Alien I never played GNR much again. Sold it. Gone.

Exactly the same as what happened to mine and the only thing that fixed it was a new replacement playfield box.

Issues aside (and luckily so far I've only had minor ones), this game is sooooo good. Seriously if anyone is on the fence about taking the plunge with this one, do it you will not be disappointed. For fans of the franchise its a no-brainer - its eerily suspenseful and even the way the game shoots matches the Alien theme perfectly. The music, sounds, modes, everything is really well done. The code is already fantastic - you don't just have modes to complete (from 2 different movies no less) you have 5 multiballs and the use of alien lifecycles and weapons to supplement everything etc...

It's the first time I've bought a NIB LE (LV in this case), and I'm very, very happy with it. Yes it's had a few teething problems, but I've raised these with PB, have had responses and I know the game will be 100% soon. As it is - it's been perfectly playable, a few tweaks here and there same as I've had to do with Sterns and Spooky pins so nothing new there... Brilliant machine!

Has anybody found a way to put in light up flipper buttons?

Kurt (@jakusu) had them on his machine, although he might have powered off the additional power supply he added to the machine. Hopefully he'll confirm how he did it

I have a stand alone power supply for mods, but the coin door lights are 12V believe.

Correct the coin door lights are definitely 12V, so don't go replacing the incandescent globes in the door with 6.3V LEDs

This is a better shooter than GnR. GnR is deeper code (Aliens is 10 modes and 5 MBs fairly linear but each has personality so feels more interesting than “hit lit shot 1, 2, 3”). Integration for both is great. Aliens has way more openness so more fun to shoot for me. Plus wide body and crazy flipper placements creates great/novel angles.

I dont really want to recommend what I do without knowing others abilities and capabilities are sorry.

I do recommend a seperate 12v supply for all mods on this machine regardless, unless its one or two leds or a switch piggy back.

Haha now he tells me. I put some green LEDs in. What’s that funny smell, whipped them out quick smart. I’ll get some 12v ones.

Well I only know because someone over in the west had the same experience as you

I do own both, in my small collection GnR (LE) gets played the least. It's a hit for someone coming over for the first time but the shots on the game a difficult for many and they say it's a beautiful game but feel very clunky at best. Alien (SV) seems to have better flow but most newbies also say, they love the theme but it's a difficult game to play with the outlanes. Overall two very different games though. I find Alien to be more linear in the code, while GnR is risk vs reward.

I installed 12v LEDs in the coin button lights as I didn't like them using incandescent (Comet offers them). For the buttons and backglass along with the soon to be apron mod, I mounted a dedicated power supply. It was very easy and for this game is the safest way to mod this machine.

Haha. What a bloody idiot.

A few of us have successfully installed Comet Pinball's light-up flipper button kit:

https://www.cometpinball.com/products/illuminated-flipper-button-kit?variant=31369512779878

Be sure to select the Jersey Jack Era... that's the 12V one. A bit confusing, but the Jersey Jack one is compatible.

I'm starting to get that feeling on GnR, when I play one game, and I'm just not into it enough to play a second.

There's something about the feeling of the flippers that just has lacks life.

I was expecting on theme that this one would be a keeper, but think I might be moving it along soon.

A machine rebuild? Wtf?

It is simply re installing the base code and doing a delta update to current. takes like 15 minutes

that was me.. LOL>. 6.3 in shooter button..

Happy MU/TH/UR day.

Good one.

I’m sure a lot have done it. I was actually on the phone to Manny65 when I smelt the LEDs melting.

I did the rebuild as described on the PB site. When I did the power up after a minute, the game booted and I’d only assume able to play a game on 2.2. The airlock screen was still out and main screen had the thing still up on the right. I’m wondering if that is the airlock screen coming up in that corner.

I powered off the machine for 20 mins or so to do the 2.6 but the game got stuck at the screen in my picture here. Anyone else encountered this?

B98F0E80-4042-488C-9EFF-5D330F2E8493 (resized).jpeg

Checked my flippers and they were all pretty tight to the bushing with no play so adjusted with a std gap. Also seemed to take a couple of hard reboots to get the coil strength changes (+40%) to work. Flippers feel pretty good now. Also the flipper switches on my lv are already the double leaf stern ones.

Can make the outer orbits ok now and that’s key i’ve found to feeding to the upper right flipper. Can now lock balls to the hyper sleep ramp ok. The mb mode is great !

Pitch is 6.5 degs

Is this the black box I've seen pics of with lots of plugs on it? Is that thing serviceable?

I'm going to open a ticket, but thought I'd post here here too. We have some LEDs out on the SV we got today, maybe more. Checked the wires we could see and they seem to be connected properly.

That we can see that don't work:
-Both stand ups on either side of the right ramp
-Stand up to the left of the scoop
-Dome lamp to the right of the Alien
-The entire front egg

Some of these above don't show up in the lamp test menu though. They are there, so are they just not coded?

From the individual lamp test (nothing lights up)
-7 gi subway
-141 gi left revive
-161 to 165 bottom jet 1-5

on the SV the small standup targets do not light up. (the inserts in front of them should at various times).
The Large standup targets do light up.

Eggs should be lit almost always.

I'm not clear what you mean by dome lamp by the alien?

If you have a bunch of inserts out on the right check that you have coils on the right side working. It's possible you have a blown fuse or a fuse cap that needs reseated.

My stand ups were stuck closed. I had to bend the bracket a bit to get enough play.

Yeah one of my pop bumpers' LEDs are completely out (left egg). Everything seems to be connected up ok, PB have said I probably need a new pcb.

Boof-Ed did you sort out the software re-build/reinstall?

Got the rebuild to work. It then locked up again.

Yes it's that box and only serviceable are the 3 fuses in it and it's internal USB and RJ45 cables.

The dome "lamp" (LED) he is referring to is the one under the plastic protector that has a cut out in it for the left egg. Mine has never turned on either.

High score so far (factory settings, other than 12sec ball save):

DA034673-D4AD-4A60-833E-7E5DD379306F (resized).jpeg

A few things i think need tweaking software wise are:

1) quicker autolaunch on ball saves/multiball launches
2) movable upper lanes lamps
3) speed up/cancel option on animations for mode start/mystery awards
4) improve catch logic of right flipper magnet, seems abit random
5) upper right life cycle lamp doesnt always light from lane shot

What's the next step for you?

As asked by Andrea I have checked the hdmi connections and also used another hdmi cable. Still no luck with the displays. PB are sending a new mini display and a few other parts to swap out.

At least PB is being reactive and trying their best to satisfy the customer (or so it seems).

Yes. I can’t complain with the customer service. Would be better if there was no problems at all but this is the next best scenario.

I'm considering this - I have the "alien motion tracker" and apron planned for install. I was assuming this could plug into existing wiring w/out much of an issue. (not sure how yet, hope the instructions with those mods offers some guidance)

If one does run a separate 12V supply - are you routing a separate A/C plug for the machine? Haven't done this yet - but considered doing something similar here:

I bought these 2 splitter cables for easy plug and play to add two plugs in the cabinet.
Screenshot_20220510-085154_Chrome (resized).jpgScreenshot_20220510-085307_Chrome (resized).jpg

There are multiple ways to get the AC voltage to the power supply. You can run a separate cable. If you go that route, to make both the game and the power supply turn on at the same time you can add a power strip and a smart outlet to turn the game on and off.
You can also tap into the AC cable inside the game. One person wired it into the terminals at the on/off switch. There’s a video on how he did it and a bunch of arguing about color codes a few pages back.
Do what you feel comfortable with.

I don't think that splitter cable is going to power off with the switch. A power strip in a machine always feels like a big kludge to me, but maybe it doesn't bother others.