generally if you just put some foam on the opposite side of the direction you need it to go will help direct it. If more than that you should be loosening the mech and turning it more one direction. If the screw holes are too small and have no play you might need to widen them.

Why not just loosen the screws below the playfield that hold the scoop, turn it a bit and then just fixing the screws again? No need to bend any metal I‘d say.

Hey Zablon, since I'm a rookie here (and have not yet had the results I want bending the scoop) what do you mean by foam? I bent mine quite a bit and have got it to about mid to 3/4 down the left flipper, as opposed to SDTM, but not where it really needs to be.

If you’re having trouble with your airlock launch, I recommend checking the plunger before bending anything. I posted this before, but it’s worth a repost I think.
I had a bump on the top of the plunger that caused the eject to change every 20 or so ejects. I sanded it flat and now it goes to the left flipper every time.

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Tried this, the scope has about 4 different screws in the shape of a L. Didn't seem to make any difference.

a bit of foam padding with adhesive (like door sealer) on the one side. Cut a small piece and attach it to the inside top of the hood. I believe a few people have done this in this thread.

I have already spent SO much on mods for this beast....but that seems to make sense for the next mod.

Good call, checked it and its flat.

My frame is also exactly like that with the slight step where it joins, but no issues with the lock bar doing any damage.

Yes, double-checked and it's flat. Thank you for the repost on this though!

Thanks Zablon, I'll give it a shot

So kicking around ideas as to why the scoop would be off even after trying so many things. Would the coil have any play/anything to do with it?

You just need the ball to get a little spin on it. I would go under the scoop and put a washer on the left side, hence pulling the left side down. And forcing it left. I wouldn't be going crazy with pliers trying to get that hood bent like that, although it may work. Full disclosure, I never read the PB instructions.

As seen here this scoop isn't like Stern or JJP (GnR). It's a larger housing with a subway system attached to it. So bending it is the most efficient way. You can't just put a washer in one of the holes under the PF. There isn't a washer. Some have used a small piece of foam. It is not an easy thing to adjust, but it will bend. I used short nose pliers on mine with a rag on them.

https://www.pinballbrothers.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/214-50-02-00_Scoop_Back_Sub_Ass_Doc.pdf

Similar issue in Elvira house of horrors and it is fixed the same way. Elvira’s problems here might vary though and are not exactly limited to just the bend but all that to say, the bend does affect the ball trajectory and so does the plunger.
For my Elvira, I actually drilled the tip slightly so it follows the contour of the ball, it worked really well and I would do the same here if the plunger tip is plastic.
A drill bit of about 3/8 works here in lieu of a dremel.

Don’t bother with this ! It did absolutely nothing for my Elvira! The same fix worked there as here, bend the scoop slightly and adjust the coil strength

You are right and wrong I guess, lol, I had 2 Elviras as you know, in 1 of them it did work,BUT in the other one it did not and needed the vuk hood slightly bent.
Another day In the world of pinball tolerances!

Got a replacement scoop on the way. Will let everyone know how that goes. Will be checking the screw holes to see if the factory mounted it correctly.

One more followup on the failing ball launch issue...of course the launcher came misaligned again and failed to launch balls, after I 'firmly tightened' it into position.

In speaking with PB Support, they last told me that even they are using "loctite now in every sub-assembly mech"

So I redid the two screws with loctite...waited 24 hours for it to cure and it seems to have done the trick.

I think part of the issue, was, to get the coil to fire straight/aligned, I had to tighten the metal piece at a bit of an angle. This is probably completely normal / fine in most things pinball related, but thought i would mention it. (see pic)

Any way my game is playing really well - and I'm getting better at making shots some of the more difficult shots. It's so damn cool!

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Rmmmh, I would perhaps mention this to support and get a mech that does not need to be tighten in an angle. It should not be I think.

Can’t wait to get the call to run over to hose this puppy down again when it catches on fire for the 3rd time Deez
Glutton for punishment

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***Update - looks like a busted spring...sheeet...easy fix - just stretched the existing one and ordered some spare springs** -

(Original Post)

Dang nabbit...got the sticky flipper issue on the bottom right flipper.

Is this still the best method to fix? https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/pinball-brothers-alien-remake-owners-club/page/88#post-6643675

Also about flippers - is there anyone out there that has replaced their flippers entirely? Is there a benefit to do so? Right now, I would say the play on the flippers is a bit 'loose' and are floaty.. but I think that's by design. Kind of like the game is in 'space' Compared to my Ghostbusters, I don't feel its as accurate, but again, I'm getting used to these.

IMG_1628 (resized).jpg

Enjoy it and hope your clear coat doesn't start cracking.

IMG_20220421_220505.jpg

Oooffff

Ugh, sorry man.
Can you see the crack on the underside of the insert? Curious to see if it’s the insert itself that cracked

Just curious for anybody that has an LV. Is The anti-reflective glass marked or etched by anything? Just curious of the company? Mine is pretty thin and it’s hard to tell if it is or not anti reflective?

Nope, cracks in the clear - it spiders out from there to the APC and the post right there.

It is antireflective. If I get a chance, I'll throw in a piece of regular glass and take some photos so you can see... it's good stuff.

Just wanted post that my Alien is running great and I have no issues. Love this game! Cato is the man!

I'm sorry but...what's going on here? Caught fire? Say what? If so that sucks...When was this particular Alien manufactured? And has PB Support weighed in?

Have you not been following along with the great Deez routed Alien saga? You got a lot of catching up to do...
I'll post pics with the fire extinguisher in hand this weekend, im sure its coming

We are all following but never once has he mentioned anything about a fire inside the cabinet. Do you have a link to said post for us?

The Texas Alien contingent is strong on here.

I was standing there holding the playfield up with him on location when it happened, i dont need a link. He lives like 40 minutes away from the brewery so I help him out and work on games for him when things go wrong during the week so he donest have to drive an hour round trip because a ball got stuck or a rubber snapped or a brand new Alien goes up in smoke...

Sorry not trying to sound snide, I blame myself for this stress, its my fault for begging Deez to buy this game so I could play it. Now Im watching this drama unfold and its hilariously horrible. So now I get to troll my buddy to no end.

I’m having flipper issues that I’ve heard mentioned before, where they rapid fire on a button press, or sometimes are 1-2 seconds delayed on a button press, and occasionally get stuck up. Of course, the leaf switches are super weak and flimsy, too.

Wondering if I might resolve these issues with replacing the leaf switches to stronger ones, like Stern (or hell, even JJP/WMS at this point)? I know I have some switches from some older era games, 80s-90s at least, but will have to check to see if I have any used by modern Stern or JJP (I think I have some EOS switches from JJP…could those be repurposed as cabinet button switches if that’s all I have on hand?? I guess they may not have the physical resistance that a proper cabinet switch would have, though, still potentially leaving the button presses feeling flimsy)…the game is absolutely unplayable with this flipper behavior!

.

You can replace them with Stern switches.

If all I have are older Bally/Williams switches (SW-10A-48), would those work?

I wish I was getting the same level of responsiveness from PB as some of you are getting. I’m still having trouble with my LV. It seems to be locking up when I start any multi ball. Anyone experiencing this? After lockup, it reboots and gives me the I/O warning.

I also want to give credit to this Group of people. I’ve had hiccups from broken targets switches to flipper mechanics to software issues but Andrea over there at Pinball brothers has been diligently trying to get me sorted out. They have been great in my book and I think in this infancy stage they are working out the bugs and will eventually get a product that is tough as Ripley (See what I did there).

They have been on break for a holiday And I waited for about a week before I heard anything. Try looking at your version of I/O board number six. Seems to be that is the troublesome board. I think the lvs had the latest. But I had a lot of hiccups with the software and had to reset all my connections coming from the back glass down to the computer underneath.

Looks like I’ve got revision D.

Canceled my LV order with Cointaker. Wish everyone success with their purchase and hope all issues get resolved for those who are having trouble.

They will work short term but will cause problems in the long run. There is an older thread on this. Order the Stern switches and you will be set.

Same thing at the same spot here

I'd definitely echo that - minor issues on my side and this forum has been a great help.

Pretty good guess about the next set of deliveries.

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Please make sure to report this, if it is a common issue the PF should be replaced? what are you thoughts on this? cover it with mylar?