Quoted from brado426:

If this is happening, I think the flipper nut simply needs to be tightened. This never happens on my machine. It works exactly the same as my Funhouse flippers, which do have EOS.

Quoted from brado426:

The problem I was experiencing was with Board 6 Rev. A. When your trough starts experiencing problems, take notice if the "ROUNDS" LEDs and all the LEDs at the bottom of the playfield stop working or start changing to weird colors. In my case, the trough would eject multiple balls into the shooter lane or just plain stop working. If that is the case, you need a new board 6 Rev. D and should contact PB. I believe the problem has something to do with the JST connector hub boards that the pop bumpers and facehugger bumpers plug into, because Board 6 Rev D eliminates those hubs. To eliminate the hubs, PB may have you replace a couple other boards (board 4 and one other board.. can't remember the number). In summary, PB is aware of this issue and knows how to solve it... so open a ticket if you experience this.
Notice that boards 1 and 4 connect to board 6... so what was happening in my case is board 6 suddenly fails to send the proper signals to boards 1 and 4. Replacing board 6 COMPLETELY resolved my lockup issues. It was really hard to troubleshoot because it was so intermittent. PB took care of me though. Really appreciate their support! Cato #1!

Quoted from Pin_Fandango:

Are you suggesting that what we saw in the video was due a flipper bat not tightened correctly at the plunger?

Quoted from Deez:

Ok did some deep dive troubleshooting today. The right side 48v power rail is dead at the board. Fuses all are good. Will update after PB responds.

Quoted from Pin_Fandango:

Is the game suffering of flipper knock down issues? Or has this been resolved

Quoted from Pin_Fandango:

Is the game suffering of flipper knock down issues? Or has this been resolved

Quoted from Sjoend:

Yes the game is suffering from flipper knock down issues once the coils get too hot. This is noticeable during longer playing sessions and is really annoying. It hasn’t been fixed, hopefully soon they come with an EOS kit and software implementation.

Quoted from Sjoend:

Yes the game is suffering from flipper knock down issues once the coils get too hot. This is noticeable during longer playing sessions and is really annoying. It hasn’t been fixed, hopefully soon they come with an EOS kit and software implementation.

Quoted from Mageek:

There is absolutely no problems with the flippers , they are every bit as robust as any other game in my collection. Let’s not fixate on end of stroke , there is different technology in use here. For one thing these are single wound coils so theres no coil to disengage through the use of a EOS switch.

Quoted from WeirPinball:

You can have a single wound coil with an eos - they pulse power to the flippers and reduce after the initial push, so an eos will tell you if you need to boost the pulse again.

Quoted from monkfe:

I wonder if this can be done with software by sensing the current/voltage change when the flipper bat is knocked down and then reacting accordingly?

Quoted from brado426:

The problem I was experiencing was with Board 6 Rev. A. When your trough starts experiencing problems, take notice if the "ROUNDS" LEDs and all the LEDs at the bottom of the playfield stop working or start changing to weird colors. In my case, the trough would eject multiple balls into the shooter lane or just plain stop working. If that is the case, you need a new board 6 Rev. D and should contact PB. I believe the problem has something to do with the JST connector hub boards that the pop bumpers and facehugger bumpers plug into, because Board 6 Rev D eliminates those hubs. To eliminate the hubs, PB may have you replace a couple other boards (board 4 and one other board.. can't remember the number). In summary, PB is aware of this issue and knows how to solve it... so open a ticket if you experience this.
Notice that boards 1 and 4 connect to board 6... so what was happening in my case is board 6 suddenly fails to send the proper signals to boards 1 and 4. Replacing board 6 COMPLETELY resolved my lockup issues. It was really hard to troubleshoot because it was so intermittent. PB took care of me though. Really appreciate their support! Cato #1!

Quoted from kciaccio:

The problem I was experiencing was with Board 6 Rev. A. When your trough starts experiencing problems, take notice if the "ROUNDS" LEDs and all the LEDs at the bottom of the playfield stop working or start changing to weird colors.
Mine doe this and I reboot and goes away.
Should I put in a ticket for this?

Quoted from kciaccio:

The problem I was experiencing was with Board 6 Rev. A. When your trough starts experiencing problems, take notice if the "ROUNDS" LEDs and all the LEDs at the bottom of the playfield stop working or start changing to weird colors.
Mine doe this and I reboot and goes away.
Should I put in a ticket for this?

Quoted from Lethal_Inc:

trough eject. Sometimes too soft and gets stuck right at the top.

Quoted from brado426:

Last year, PB did send me new flipper coils that had diodes on them. Not sure if that could have anything to do with the flipper knock down issue? I do know that I've played for hours and haven't experienced anything like that.

Quoted from Mageek:

Went ahead and updated to V2.5 , same problems as Baggerman and others with Xeno grab not working. I noticed that Adjustment # 42) Magnet Capture time in V2.4 has a range of 0-99 in V2.5 has only a range of 0-9. Not sure if someone missed a digit when coding or not, Y2K all over again
Also part of the LED strip under and beside the display changes color to pink and back to white every few seconds. At any rate I opened a ticket. One thing about this game is it's super quick and easy to change S/W Versions.

Quoted from brado426:

Did you reset to factory defaults? Some of these updates require that. I haven't tried 2.5 yet but I will soon.

Quoted from Drain-O:

Hey Guys -- Pinball Rookie Year guy here... I just had to adjust the switch just to the left of the Airlock scoop. It bent a little left and had jammed to where it was always firing. I've seen people getting replacement switches. Is this due to the need for newer switches or do I just need to tighten a screw or two down to stop that from happening in the future?
Also -- had my first go-round with sentry guns multiball today. This game is a lot of fun!

Quoted from Drain-O:

Hey Guys -- Pinball Rookie Year guy here... I just had to adjust the switch just to the left of the Airlock scoop. It bent a little left and had jammed to where it was always firing. I've seen people getting replacement switches. Is this due to the need for newer switches or do I just need to tighten a screw or two down to stop that from happening in the future?
Also -- had my first go-round with sentry guns multiball today. This game is a lot of fun!

Quoted from Mageek:

No I didn’t reset. Please let us know your results and please check for the Pink leds on the backglass around the display.

Quoted from Baggerman:

I did a rebuilt to 2.2 then up to 2.4 to undo 2.5. Should i install 2.5 again and see if it works? Is that what you mean by factory reset? I have tickets in as well. Did not notice the pink LED but there was an adjustment to the backbox lighting to make it "interactive" is that what this is?

Quoted from brado426:

I installed 2.5 last night. I haven't really noticed any of the issues you have been reporting. I noticed the LEDs on the right of the backbox lighting seem to turn off while in the maintenance menu, but seem to function just fine during the game. No pink LEDs are any issues like that. I recall having some mis-colored LEDs in the backbox in the past, and I had to replace the LED segment... so not sure that your issue with LEDs has anything to do with 2.5.
With 2.5, I did notice another issue with my center magnet, but I'm not going to say that is 2.5 causing it because I've had the same problem before with other system updates... so that may be some other intermittent issue.
Other than that, the only issue with 2.5 I'm seeing is that the ball launch LED button seems to stay lit after a game is over. Maybe this is intentional, but it makes more sense to me for it to be off when in attract mode.
Will test 2.5 more today.

Quoted from brado426:

I ended up reverting to 2.4 and it resolved my center magnet issue. I got word that it is possible that the forthcoming firmware update may actually be a requirement. For now, I'm going to stick with 2.4... it has been stable for me. It is pretty nice that you can easily downgrade/upgrade. No real risk in trying new updates.

Quoted from brado426:

I ended up reverting to 2.4 and it resolved my center magnet issue. I got word that it is possible that the forthcoming firmware update may actually be a requirement. For now, I'm going to stick with 2.4... it has been stable for me. It is pretty nice that you can easily downgrade/upgrade. No real risk in trying new updates.

Quoted from Zablon:

A little late on this, but I too am still seeing the Xeno magnet not grab long enough. It stops the ball, then a second later it lets go, long before the tongue is out. It doesn't happen all the time, but it is still there in 2.4, when I initially opened a ticket on it I was on 2.2d

Quoted from Bulks00:

Hi everyone!
I am just joining the club. I received my Alien SV last week. I did the setup, put the balls in and put the game on Free Play and BOOM!!! The start button won’t launch the first ball. In the switch tests, I found that the start switch is actually ON. I believe it should be off, no? I logged a Service ticket with PB but any ideas from you guys? This is my first pin. I am nowhere near a pinball expert and I must say I am extremely disappointed…

Quoted from Bulks00:

Hi everyone!
I am just joining the club. I received my Alien SV last week. I did the setup, put the balls in and put the game on Free Play and BOOM!!! The start button won’t launch the first ball. In the switch tests, I found that the start switch is actually ON. I believe it should be off, no? I logged a Service ticket with PB but any ideas from you guys? This is my first pin. I am nowhere near a pinball expert and I must say I am extremely disappointed…

Quoted from Bulks00:

Hi everyone!
I am just joining the club. I received my Alien SV last week. I did the setup, put the balls in and put the game on Free Play and BOOM!!! The start button won’t launch the first ball. In the switch tests, I found that the start switch is actually ON. I believe it should be off, no? I logged a Service ticket with PB but any ideas from you guys? This is my first pin. I am nowhere near a pinball expert and I must say I am extremely disappointed…

Quoted from billsfanmd:

I know this is an Alien thread but I'm curious if PB will make other titles? I'm guessing the obvious answer is yes since they cant survive on just one game. Do they have design team or just remake other classics?

Quoted from precisionk:

If you get the SV, can you add in beacons after the fact?

Quoted from precisionk:

If you get the SV, can you add in beacons after the fact?

Quoted from Sunsfan23:

per an email from PB likely yes eventually, as well as shaker integration when installed

Quoted from DVDA:

I had the same issue with the launch button. Lift the playfield and follow the purple and yellow wires to the black box on the end of the playfield and check to see if one of the wires came loose. It should be on the far right plug.

Quoted from mitchzizzle:

So does the 'start' button do nothing? Its impossible to start a game? Or the start button puts a ball in the shooter lane, but you cant fire it?

Quoted from precisionk:

If you get the SV, can you add in beacons after the fact?

Quoted from Bulks00:

Thanks for all the answers!! More debugging to do!

I will try to test these things you suggested and also the video that was posted. Maybe I missed some connections. I will also send PB some videos they asked for to be able to better support me. I will also measure the current on the switch to make sure it’s not defective.

Start button does work to add players and put a ball in the shooting lane. The Shoot button does nothing. I can see the plastic of the start button activating the switch and I can hear the clicking sound.

Off topic, but PB sent me an email back in August 2021 that they may make the beacons available at a later time as spare parts. Probably don’t want to dilute LV sales right now however.

Quoted from TwilightZone:

Joined the club yesterday! My buddy Mageek came over and helped look it over before we turned it on. He was an early adapter and knows the game well, and made adjustments to the coils plus some tweaking.
I installed his airlock mod which is awesome and really makes the screen pop. Easy to install, too. Remove screws and attach over existing plastic so your screen is protected.
We checked all connections before powering on and everything looked good.
Turned the game on. Game powered on, press the start and ball wasn’t kicked from trough. Went in switch text and discovered ALL coils on right side were not firing. My heart sank. Kevin figured it had to be a fuse or a connection. We tried to check fuses, but the middle one will not open. Have to raise a ticket for that. Was able to check other fuses and reset the connectors on top of the black box. Turned it on and she worked! Played for hours, stopping to tweak the game and then play again.
Still have some tweaking to do.
My habit trail from the shooter lane is slightly bent and causing the ball to fail every now and again. It will keep kicking until it serves the ball so not a big issue. Will need to remove and bend.
From factory the right orbit is “clunky”. If you shot the ball from left orbit, the ball will catch the right target as it exits. We assume this is factory as his game had the same behaviour that, too. We tweaked it a bit by bending target and moving rail out a bit. It worked for awhile, but we may not have tightened the screw enough as it returned. I’ll look at that tonight. Hoping I can just push the metal rail out a bit and tighten screw. Kevin drilled a new hole for his and I have to admit it plays great. Will see.
Common issue on the saucer still exists. Even turning down coil, the ball sometimes hits the bottom of the ramp. Need to put some material under the ramp to soften the hit.
Some tips for new owners:
1. Go over connectors from cabinet to head. Just do a quick look and push them in. Mine was good. We also did a visual check under playfield. Note, there are connectors on switches that are not connected to anything.
2. Double check nuts under playfield and make sure they are good. A few were loose on mine.
3. Double check flippers and make sure they are tight. I didn’t and one flipper had to be adjusted as it wasn’t tightened
4. Revise coil settings per Magkeek:
For Xeno in V2.4 set Adjustments > Coils> Adjustment 20 > Center Magnet +30 AND Adjustments > Alien(s) > Adjustment 42 > Magnet Capture Time 10 or higher , I have mine at 13
Turn down coil strength for trough and lane coils
I want to say thank you to Pinball Brothers and early adapters. Kevin and I noticed several improvements on my game from his early run game:
1. They must have added an extra foot of cable for the connectors to head. Early games are really tight. Lots of slack on mine
2. Phillips screws! Early games, like Kevin’s, have torque screws. They have gone to mostly Phillip screws and it’s a welcome improvement.
3. Improved boards. My game shipped with 2.4 code and version C board.
4. Latest and improved switches
5. Improved mechs. Kevin noticed some mechs were improved on my game. I cann’t recall all of them, but I recall he pointed out the tongue on the Xeno has something covering the tip to protect it.
6. Hypersleep ramp is smooth and looks great. Early games have bend lines. That’s the only way I can describe it.
What a fantastic game. Really happy to add it to my collection. [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from TwilightZone:

Joined the club yesterday! My buddy Mageek came over and helped look it over before we turned it on. He was an early adapter and knows the game well, and made adjustments to the coils plus some tweaking.
I installed his airlock mod which is awesome and really makes the screen pop. Easy to install, too. Remove screws and attach over existing plastic so your screen is protected.
We checked all connections before powering on and everything looked good.
Turned the game on. Game powered on, press the start and ball wasn’t kicked from trough. Went in switch text and discovered ALL coils on right side were not firing. My heart sank. Kevin figured it had to be a fuse or a connection. We tried to check fuses, but the middle one will not open. Have to raise a ticket for that. Was able to check other fuses and reset the connectors on top of the black box. Turned it on and she worked! Played for hours, stopping to tweak the game and then play again.
Still have some tweaking to do.
My habit trail from the shooter lane is slightly bent and causing the ball to fail every now and again. It will keep kicking until it serves the ball so not a big issue. Will need to remove and bend.
From factory the right orbit is “clunky”. If you shot the ball from left orbit, the ball will catch the right target as it exits. We assume this is factory as his game had the same behaviour that, too. We tweaked it a bit by bending target and moving rail out a bit. It worked for awhile, but we may not have tightened the screw enough as it returned. I’ll look at that tonight. Hoping I can just push the metal rail out a bit and tighten screw. Kevin drilled a new hole for his and I have to admit it plays great. Will see.
Common issue on the saucer still exists. Even turning down coil, the ball sometimes hits the bottom of the ramp. Need to put some material under the ramp to soften the hit.
Some tips for new owners:
1. Go over connectors from cabinet to head. Just do a quick look and push them in. Mine was good. We also did a visual check under playfield. Note, there are connectors on switches that are not connected to anything.
2. Double check nuts under playfield and make sure they are good. A few were loose on mine.
3. Double check flippers and make sure they are tight. I didn’t and one flipper had to be adjusted as it wasn’t tightened
4. Revise coil settings per Magkeek:
For Xeno in V2.4 set Adjustments > Coils> Adjustment 20 > Center Magnet +30 AND Adjustments > Alien(s) > Adjustment 42 > Magnet Capture Time 10 or higher , I have mine at 13
Turn down coil strength for trough and lane coils
I want to say thank you to Pinball Brothers and early adapters. Kevin and I noticed several improvements on my game from his early run game:
1. They must have added an extra foot of cable for the connectors to head. Early games are really tight. Lots of slack on mine
2. Phillips screws! Early games, like Kevin’s, have torque screws. They have gone to mostly Phillip screws and it’s a welcome improvement.
3. Improved boards. My game shipped with 2.4 code and version C board.
4. Latest and improved switches
5. Improved mechs. Kevin noticed some mechs were improved on my game. I cann’t recall all of them, but I recall he pointed out the tongue on the Xeno has something covering the tip to protect it.
6. Hypersleep ramp is smooth and looks great. Early games have bend lines. That’s the only way I can describe it.
What a fantastic game. Really happy to add it to my collection. [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from pbwizard14:

When these NIB pinball machines are delivered by Fedex, do they just off load it onto the driveway and leave? I'm getting my LV in a couple of days and am being told they will not put it in the garage.