I had this too. You just have to apply a small piece of sticky tape to the upper right corner of the scoop eject. This way the balls trajectory will be altered and it will hit your left flipper consistently.

That sounds odd?
I would loosen the screws and turn slightly, or adjust the bend on the scoop itself.

As far as I inspected the assembly, there is no way to adjust the scoop in terms of unscrewing and slightly moving it in the correct direction. The only way would be to bend it, but I didn't want to to that.
And others didn't as well (posts 1441, 1847, etc.).

there is a guide on Pbros page that shows this.

https://pinballbrothers.freshdesk.com/support/solutions/articles/80000711505-trough-adjustments

https://pinballbrothers.freshdesk.com/support/solutions/articles/80000961821--how-to-adjust-airlock-scoop

How did you reload since it wouldn’t even boot up? I think I’m having the same issue you had?

https://pinballbrothers.freshdesk.com/support/solutions/articles/80000956738-alien-delta-game-update-2-4-

Oh, thanks - I must have missed that! I didn't want to bend the whole assembly, but OK, if that is the way to go - why not

The issue is I can’t even get the service mode screen up to select the “factory reset” option. Or maybe I don’t understand what or how to “reflash”

10CF7BF0-DD42-4307-8047-762A833DED4D (resized).jpeg

I just added an LED strip to my back box and I figured I'd take a video to show the correct way (in my opinion) to hook up power to your backbox. Hopefully it will prevent people from connecting LED's to USB ports and such. Parts list is included in YouTube video description:

I think you should try a complete install as shown here

https://pinballbrothers.freshdesk.com/support/solutions/articles/80000843825--how-to-rebuild-machine-alien-2-2

Going to try. Thank you!

Just curious, what's the downside to using the USB port for a light strip? I've done it with a few of my newer games for a few years now and I've never had any issues.

I'm not clear on why a 5v small LED strip would be an issue on the monitor USB hub. The computer itself is spec'd to use those. I've had 6.5 foot 5v USB strip on mine since I got it plugged into the monitor and never had an issue. What I'm not clear on is where the amp draw and in line fuses come in either before or after on the outbox that is under the playfield. I would not suggest plugging in there.

That being said, something different is required for 12v and/or if perhaps adding multiple LED strips.

I think I'd rather pull power from the power lines under the playfield (5V or 12V) than USB on the computer. They have 10 amp fuses, so that should be plenty to power some backbox LEDs. However, for backbox lighting, I don't think this is a good idea for two reasons... First, you'd have to run wires up to the playfield to get to the backbox. 2. You can easily use an external power supply rather than pulling power from the playfield power. Whenever there is an easy option to use external power, I'd recommend doing that instead of pulling power from the game. You never know when you may actually NEED to pull power from the game for some other reason... so if the option exists to avoid it, I say avoid it.

If pulling 5V from the computer is working for you and you're comfortable with it, you can do what you want... it still makes me cringe. I don't think it is a good idea to be pulling amperage from a computer on a long-term basis. I'd do it as a test or maybe to slowly charge a phone or device. But for permanent power, I think it is bad practice. I know it works.... I just think it is bad practice.

Nothing - same blank screens

Anyone know approx how far out deliveries are on standards from cointaker? Thx

At 1:30 is in your video you suggest using the proper color of wires then why do you have the line as white and the neutral as a black wire? Follow up question... if the game were to accidentally short somehow..how catastrophic could having the wires in the wrong spots like that be? Otherwise, uhhh , ummm g g g g g great video! Sorry man.. but this video is cringe af. Should of at least done a 2nd take!

I'm adding the the 2 panel translite mod. It uses the led strip that goes around the entire head. Would love to find safe and easy place to get 12v.

Dude... Once again, you spew nothing but negativity. Line and Neutral wire colors don't matter. This is AC electricity... that means alternating current. That means no polarity.

Please search YouTube and you will learn about it. Use proper color wires where it matters.

Dee-Bow... rather than being [Removed].... how about try posting a helpful video for the community like I just did.

I took the video down. Last time I will post a helpful video here. Not worth dealing with [Removed].

Since you're sooooo concerned about it. I put a comment in the description that those wire colors are not industry standard. Hardly anything to worry about though. Thanks for pointing that out [Removed]!

here is my alien with pinstadium neos. I know people say it will be too bright and this game should be dark but when I think it looks killer with blue and no white. My garage has horrible lighting anyway so this helps my blind ass. lol. let me know what you think regardless of opinion. Here is a comparison with them on and off.

4DEBFE89-3ABC-4E03-8288-B3137E543316 (resized).jpeg

5C6B9387-D500-468B-8A7E-BD8011DC8095 (resized).jpeg

I'm a drywaller/construction worker and even i can tell you're not really sure what you're talking about! You were stuttering with uncertainty! Easy on the name calling over the internet too. It's not a good look

Referring to you as a prick is not name-calling... It is just calling it what it is.

Dee-Bow ... could you please post a new video explaining how YOU would wire up LEDs for the backbox? Use your drywall construction skills to provide a more accurate video. I've never dry walled a house in my life. Let me help you to become a positive, contributing member to this community.

Would you do something completely different? Or just change the colors of Line and Neutral?

Doing drywall is a lot like being an electrician…in Canada maybe. I wouldn’t even turn the main power on until the drywallers were done for liability reasons.

I try my damnest not to post in here... do read and catch up on occasion), but shit like this is simply dangerous. Line and Neutral colors absolutely DO matter (called out in the NEC manual for good reason)..looks like you called them out then wired backwards.

YOU may want to check YouTube, or better yet search how overcurrent protection works.

Play w your load side DC power wiring w abandonment for standards and possibly blow a small fuse.

Screw around on the line side will get someone killed, or burn a machine down.

I post as hoping it helps anyone adding an external supply to ANY game must observe proper polarity ( yes polarity, as I'm sure you've used your DMM to show how alternating current flows).

Saw this and couldn't let it go, as a huge safety risk....@ debow is correct in his observation

Last thing I want to see is anyone getting fried.....conscious cleared, and out.

Nice! I think this game definitely needs more lighting in general. To which extent is purely up to each individual's preference to make them happy. There's a lot of artwork you'll never really see without it.

Like I said, I updated the description. Also like I said, I actually appreciate the feedback and have already fixed those colors.

The reason I said it doesn't matter is because the wiring is correct.... just the wire color standard was wrong. If I understand you correctly, you're saying someone might come in to add another modification and mis-take Line for Neutral and get a shock. I get it.

I will make a new video on this subject and we can see what additional controversy it produces. Hopefully, we can get some additional feedback and make sure everything is absolutely perfect!

To each his own but I’m sold. I want to play this with lights off so badly but just too dark..and that blue/purple just looks amazing. I have same on GB and think I’ll be adding.

Would simply suggest you pull that video down, and wire with proper colored wire ( as you suggest oddly) then connect correctly on the line side ( with huge disclaimer to unplug machine first and be comfortable with this type of modification at the start of the video).

External, switching ps's are essential with all the crazy things people add to games ( I have them in the vast majority of mine).

Most companies provide wallwarts to avoid the exact hazard to which I was speaking to last night.

Obviously, your example works, but only you could be comfortable adding things on the line side as you performed the work. A bad habit and extremely dangerous ( and liable if things go south)

Example ( have no idea what your discipline is, but not electrical):

Simple wall plug:

Plug is polarized ( can only plug it in 1 way)
Large, silver tab is for the Neutral " ground" connection= always white
Smaller, gold tab ( darker) is the "hot" or positive tab= always black
Semi round, green tab is for the " grounding" connection = green.

If you don't understand the difference between " ground" and " grounding" you need to.

Load side is a different story, but guidelines still need to be followed.

My post was not intended to give you feedback, but potential cause a pause before putting something like that out there...and having someone kill themselves.

Yes, I've worked on high voltage in CRT monitors in electronics and arcade machines for so many years, I don't think about someone new coming into this and electrocuting themselves. I guess because I've worked on this stuff for so many years and haven't electrocuted myself yet, I feel I know what I'm doing, but as you guys point out, I'm just a hack with no formal training.

Also, you're right... videos like that should have "don't blow yourself up" disclaimers. I guess I incorrectly assume people have enough common sense to not do something if they don't feel comfortable doing it, which is probably not the case.

It is important that the fuse is on the Line side. Because that was correct, I wasn't worried about the wire colors for my application, but I don't want other people following that. I'll make a new video for you to scrutinize.

any ideas why the ball launch doesn’t work? everything else seems to work and everything looks good under the playfield

Does the coil work in test? If it does, does the switch register when you push the launch button in test?

the coil test does not work but the launch button works on test mode

Hmm we are on day 5 on location. On 7-8 hours a day and still running strong.

Can you please open a ticket with PB on these issues? Thanks

I got my Alien back in June and put it on location in mid July. I've had a couple of minor issues which were remedied in short order. The only major issue I had was a burnt out MOSFET, otherwise everything has been running great.

someone explain the stern flipper switch upgrade? Curious how much work it is to switch out.

Same with any other game..burnt coil, an open coil winding, or just simply coil wire came loose from a coil lug.

Undo two screws. Desoldering two wires. Re solder two wires. Redo the screws. 10-15 minute job.

And you will need longer wood screws if I remember correctly!

My small display doesn’t seem to be getting power. I followed the wire to the back box and re-seated and no go. Also noticed by trough coil has a hard time ejecting a ball to start the game, particularly when the machine has been played for awhile . Anyone else seeing this?

Ah yeah I took off one of the spacers on the new switches to make them the same size but yes longer screws also works

Just in case anyone is interested, here is a video of my first impressions of the game.

Hello,

I guess the only option for servicing this is packing it up and mailing?

What are the chances we won't be able to get parts for these in 5 or 10 years?

If you read this thread you’ll find tons of self service info already posted. They also have some pretty dedicated support folks at PB to help you resolve issues. If you’re asking if you might need to get your hands dirty at some point, then the answer is yes.