(Topic ID: 233356)

Pin-Hauler Trailer Discussion


By desertT1

4 months ago



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  • 79 posts
  • 29 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 months ago by Kerry_Richard
  • Topic is favorited by 8 Pinsiders

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    There are 79 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 2.
    #51 4 months ago

    Here is a few pics of my current trailer and suggestions. I have had both aluminum and non aluminum trailers.
    My current trailer is aluminum. (less weight to pull but more expensive to purchase)
    Tandem axle (better ride, less abuse on inventory in the trailer).
    Torsion axles are a little more expensive then spring axles( but less bounce and abuse on inventory).
    barn doors vs ramp. Yes you can get closer with barn doors but a ramp door is much easier especially if your by yourself!!!

    Last advice shop around and don't buy the cheapest out there (lesson learned long ago) inspect it well, make sure if you buy a 12 foot or larger with tandem axles you install a brake controller (DOT Law) . Install your own Etrac its much cheaper to buy somewhere else (harbor freight sells it)

    Good luck, I looked two months before I bought this one.

    Pincades
    Jesse t

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    #52 4 months ago

    Just an observation.....
    Op said they want to move pins with the legs on in the back of a trailer. Considering the cost of our hobby sounds very risky. A pin sans legs properly wrapped up with blankets/poly and strapped is impervious to damage. Don’t see the advantage of leaving legs on vs risk of damage. I fit 6 pins in a 5x8 uhaul which is plenty if you ask me.

    #53 4 months ago

    It is funny how this discussion keeps going back to trailers MUCH TO BIG for a guy to tow with a small SUV. The OP didn't ask "what I should tow with my 3/4 ton truck he asked what he should buy to tow behind a vehicle with max towing capacity of 2500 pounds"!

    Maybe someone should start a post on what trailer to buy if you are towing with a TRUCK but the OP does not have a vehicle capable of towing anything much bigger than a 5x10 single axle trailer and ever that is likely pushing things.

    As with anything else in life there is no "perfect fit" for everyone. But there are two trailers that should fit most peoples needs depending on your tow vehicle & size of loads you haul. The first is for a guy moving a few pins from time to time and that "perfect trailer is a 6x10 or 6x12. The second one is for a guy moving heavier or bigger loads with a larger tow vehicle and that is a 7x14 or 7x16 tandem axle trailer.

    But when towing with a smaller vehicle an open trailer or a 5x8 or 5x10 is likely a much better fit.

    It is more about the tow vehicle than about the size of a trailer. People seem to keep forgetting that!

    #54 4 months ago

    I’ve had my questions answered by some very helpful members, so if this evolves into a more general trailer conversation that’s all good. I found a pretty good candidate and went to look yesterday. It’s a 6x10 that is pretty much what I think I’d try first as far as configuration. Hoping to take it home this weekend.

    #55 4 months ago
    Quoted from desertT1:

    I’ve had my questions answered by some very helpful members, so if this evolves into a more general trailer conversation that’s all good. I found a pretty good candidate and went to look yesterday. It’s a 6x10 that is pretty much what I think I’d try first as far as configuration. Hoping to take it home this weekend.

    With the size of your tow vehicle that 6x10 will likely be your best choice. From my experience I would say a 5x10 might actually be the best choice based just on your tow vehicle size but a 5x10 will not be as good of a trailer to move machines in or for resale value down the road.

    Since you are "pushing the limits" of your tow vehicle just go a little easy on speed if you are driving into a headwind or you are on an Interstate Highway (or other high speed road). That will save a little wear & tear on your transmission. Keeping speeds down under 60 MPH when towing should save you about 20% on fuel mileage also compared to towing at 70 MPH and it is also a safer speed with pushing the limits of your tow vehicle.

    My only other question or suggestion would be "V" nose trailer? A "V" nose will push a little less wind & both help with fuel mileage & saving your tow vehicle.

    Good Luck!
    Skip

    #56 4 months ago
    Quoted from JeffZee:

    I don't always fully inflate the tires...

    What does the trailer manufacturer recommend for inflation pressure? What is the tire manufacturer maximum pressure (it's on the sidewalk of the tire)? What pressures do you run at and how did you decide those are correct for your application?

    #57 4 months ago

    The CYA answer for trailer tires is to inflate to the max pressure listed on the tire sidewall.

    If you want to be scientific you can usually find a load chart for what ever tire you have.

    I'm not very scientific. If I'm hauling something relatively light (like one game) and the tires aren't bulging or getting warm, I don't mind if they're 5 or so pounds under. If I'm helping someone move and filling up the trailer, than I'll make sure the tires are fully inflated.

    #58 4 months ago
    Quoted from YeOldPinPlayer:

    What does the trailer manufacturer recommend for inflation pressure? What is the tire manufacturer maximum pressure (it's on the sidewalk of the tire)? What pressures do you run at and how did you decide those are correct for your application?

    Trailer tires can be a HUGE problem if you do not have them inflated properly. However the key is load weight, road surface temperature, type of driving, distance you will be traveling, and age of your tires.

    Typically most full size trailer tires (13" through 15" tires) call for 50 pounds of air in them. If you are driving on a hot day, traveling more than a few miles and have older tires stay as close to 50 pounds as possible in your tires to play it safe. Trailer tires tend to build heat quickly if underinflated.

    However if you are loaded light with fairly new tires on your trailer and are not going far or driving at high speeds on a hot day anything over about 35 pounds in your tires should be just fine.

    Always replace trailer tires every 6 years (sooner if they look dry rotted). Most companies call for every 7 years but that is pushing things with modern tires.

    #59 4 months ago
    Quoted from JeffZee:

    The CYA answer for trailer tires is to inflate to the max pressure listed on the tire sidewall.
    If you want to be scientific you can usually find a load chart for what ever tire you have.
    I'm not very scientific. If I'm hauling something relatively light (like one game) and the tires aren't bulging or getting warm, I don't mind if they're 5 or so pounds under. If I'm helping someone move and filling up the trailer, than I'll make sure the tires are fully inflated.

    Thanks for your specific, concise answer jeffzee
    Your reasoning agrees with this chart: https://www.maxxis.com/trailer/trailer-tire-loadinflation-chart
    Basically the load carrying capacity goes up with inflation pressure.

    #60 4 months ago

    Another point worth mentioning about the tires. Check to see if they've been balanced. I know, I know, you'd think that's obvious, right? Well, some trailer manufacturers don't bother to balance the tires they install on the trailers they sell. The end result is that after a few years and miles, those tires lose chunks of rubber on the treads due to them hopping around. Balance them, or you'll end up buying new ones prematurely.

    I should add that all of the above is from personal experience. The tires on the used trailer I bought were already too far gone when I bought it, but when I got a set of new radials for those rims you can be sure that I had the guys that mounted them balance them then, and I've been happy ever since.

    #61 4 months ago

    Now that we’re talking tires,
    Radial or bias?

    #62 4 months ago

    Here’s mine. 26 foot custom built. Rear ramp, E channel inside for straps, 12 floor tie down points, Side door, ramp side door in nose cone, led lights inside, insulated, storage up high in nose, 3/4 ton axles, 7 foot ceilings. Holds 25 pins.
    We use it for ATVs, cycles and sleds too. Also holds a car inside.
    I also have a full size extended tall roof ford transit van that holds 10 pins. Custom inside, insulated walls and ceiling and floor, 2 rows E channel, removable back seat for 3.
    American picker style van.

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    #63 4 months ago

    I recently purchased a used 2017 Vision trailer; 8.5' x 7' x 20' w/ 2' V nose and ramp. I purchased 40' of E-Track: (8) 5' E-Tracks to install around the inside. What height would you recommend I install them at, for hauling pins and general use?

    Thanks for your input.
    Kerry

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    #64 4 months ago

    My kids want the driveway back so I'm going to need to move my small 5x8 on to the grass. Will some 2x6 planks under the tires and hitch be adequate?

    #65 4 months ago

    I'm also in the market for a trailer. I was thinking of doing the hitch myself. What is the difference between these DIY kits versus what somewhere like UHaul does?

    Anyone have experience with this Curt Class 3 Hitch? Looks like it can be picked up for around $100, much less than having an install done.

    https://www.curtmfg.com/part/13902

    It sounds like it will be plenty for my needs, since my GMC Sierra 1500 truck isn't rated to tow that much anyway (4700 lbs) - although it has plenty of power, it seems the gear ratio isn't the best (too low) for towing.

    https://www.carmax.com/research/gmc/sierra-1500/2011/features-specs?vehiclenumber=44884&enginenumber=1201846&trannumber=1204044

    With that capacity, any thoughts on the max trailer I should go for? Debating 6x12 or 7x14.

    What about brakes? Truck has front disc and rear drum. Any kind of rule of thumb at what capacity you should have trailer braking?

    #66 4 months ago

    I’d shop Amazon for the hitch. As for as capacity, my 2000 Silverado 1500 V8 can handle the 8x16 tandem axle but needs wider side view mirrors. Usually use the Ram 3500 when towing it ( which is overkill ).
    Why doesn’t yours have a factory hitch? Missing the tow package? V6?

    #67 4 months ago
    Quoted from HighVoltage:

    I'm also in the market for a trailer. I was thinking of doing the hitch myself. What is the difference between these DIY kits versus what somewhere like UHaul does?

    Anyone have experience with this Curt Class 3 Hitch? Looks like it can be picked up for around $100, much less than having an install done.

    The hitch is the easy part. Usually the holes are already in the frame for mounting the hitch. It all depends on make and model of vehicle. The part that may take up the most time is the wiring. If you are lucky and have a vehicle that only needs the tail lights tapped into with adapters, it will go pretty quick. But, some harnesses need a 12v connection all the way up the battery in addition to the tailight adapters. While none of this is overly difficult, it can be time consuming depending on what you need to actually do.

    #68 4 months ago

    Thanks, it looks like Curt also has a tail-light tap for my truck available on Amazon for $9, so DIY route sounds pretty good to me.

    I linked to my truck model. It is a V8, but no hitch. But it will soon!

    #69 4 months ago
    Quoted from HighVoltage:

    Any kind of rule of thumb at what capacity you should have trailer braking?

    WA requires trailer brakes if the gross is over 3000 lbs. or "40% of the GW of the towing vehicle" https://drivinglaws.aaa.com/tag/trailer-brakes/
    So 2720 lbs for your GMC if the GW you linked to is accurate. Many trailers are 2990 GW or so to get around the brakes requirement, be aware of your specific limitation when trailer shopping.

    You'll need a brake controller in your truck if the trailer has brakes, that's another $60-$100 item.

    #70 4 months ago

    Some good info, thanks. I've driven a pickup with a larger trailer before, and it had electronic brakes. I could tell they made a big difference as I calibrated them. I was thinking more from a safety stand point, but that's a pretty conservative rule anyway, doesn't really seem like no brakes is a reasonable option.

    #71 4 months ago

    Suggestion: "if" you decide on dual axles... be sure you know if both axles have brakes. Some cheaper trailers, only have brake on 1 axle.

    #72 4 months ago

    I can rent a Uhaul trailer a LOT of times with what a trailer costs. I don't doubt its versatility, but most people, including me, would not use one enough to justify it. I bought three games 700 miles away. 3 day rental on a Uhaul tandem axel was 100 bones. Done. Just another perspective. I live in a subdivision that doesn't allow them, so with storage, I could not justify the cost.

    For those of you that do this as your business or a good sized side gig, and/or travel the country regularly, I completely understand.

    #73 4 months ago
    Quoted from SDTMinSTL:

    I can rent a Uhaul trailer a LOT of times with what a trailer costs.

    This is what I used to do. In fact I based my 6x12 trailer purchase on my 6x12 U-Haul experience. The rentals were dirt cheap, but I was eventually turned off by the whole checkout hassle. Every customer shows up first thing in the morning and they have like two employees to deal with it all. That was about 15 years ago. Maybe their checkout process has been automated by now.

    #74 4 months ago
    Quoted from SDTMinSTL:

    I can rent a Uhaul trailer a LOT of times with what a trailer costs. I don't doubt its versatility, but most people, including me, would not use one enough to justify it. I bought three games 700 miles away. 3 day rental on a Uhaul tandem axel was 100 bones. Done. Just another perspective. I live in a subdivision that doesn't allow them, so with storage, I could not justify the cost.
    For those of you that do this as your business or a good sized side gig, and/or travel the country regularly, I completely understand.

    I wouldn't buy one either. In fact, I rented eight trailers from U-Haul in the past five years. Well worth the $600.00 bucks. Heck I can play a lot of pinball at arcades (Pinball Pete's, PHOF, shows for way less than the prices of machines. That's why I'm done buying them. Plus I play at VFW so pretty much everything I want to play in one place.

    1 week later
    #75 3 months ago

    I ended up getting a 6X10 (barn doors) and with the Tacoma it pulled just fine. Since the Tacoma is available to me pretty much at all times I'll likely just use that until things change. I got a folding (long ways) ramp from Harbor Freight and it'll do just fine for my needs. I did a circuit route where I moved/swapped a game from each of my locations and it went just fine. It takes a little more time and I have to park in specific areas, but I also don't really have to lift anything. The only "hump" is getting my lift cart up onto the ramp, which isn't even very bad.

    the 6X10 has already proven a good choice because at one time I had 2 machines in and I needed to swing one around. I was able to do that with my lift in the width of the trailer and I doubt I could have in the 5' wide trailer.

    Going up to Phoenix this weekend to get some arcade games. Hoping to add some "supplemental pinball income" to one of my locations with the arcades.

    #76 3 months ago
    Quoted from Kerry_Richard:

    I recently purchased a used 2017 Vision trailer; 8.5' x 7' x 20' w/ 2' V nose and ramp. I purchased 40' of E-Track: (8) 5' E-Tracks to install around the inside. What height would you recommend I install them at, for hauling pins and general use?
    Thanks for your input.
    Kerry
    [quoted image]

    Kerry, I would recommend a set of rear air bags for the suburban, then about a 4 inch drop hitch, preferably a wdh (weight distribution hitch) and you’ll be safely towin like a pro...

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    #77 3 months ago

    Here’s my idea of a smaller “pin hauler”. 5x10 camping teardrop trailer. I use it to go off-road camping with my Jeep Rubicon and it can also fit 3 pinball machine should I need to use it for that. It has a tv/dvd/ Air conditioning, heater, and rear fold out kitchen. The kids love it and pinball machines slide right in the side door.

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    #78 3 months ago
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    #79 3 months ago
    Quoted from RandomGuyOffCL:

    Kerry, I would recommend a set of rear air bags for the suburban, then about a 4 inch drop hitch, preferably a wdh (weight distribution hitch) and you’ll be safely towin like a pro...

    Thanks for the input...

    I did get the previous owner's WDH and I already had a 2 11/16" (maybe 2 5/16" I think) that flips over to a 2" ball size and 6 way adjustable hitch. Everything is heavy duty!

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