Quoted from Pafasa:Because I didn't think of that. Thanks for that.
Kinda like a door to door salesman except they cant slam the door on ya. lol
Quoted from Pafasa:Because I didn't think of that. Thanks for that.
Kinda like a door to door salesman except they cant slam the door on ya. lol
Glad you got the reset bank figured out. FWIW, all of the locking plates on mine have the tab welded on except one. However, looking at the mechanism, it seems like it would work fine whether or not it had the tab. I can post pics if that would help.
--Luke
Quoted from pabilo21:What is the pad/buffer you have on your drill? It looks a lot easier than doing by hand with a rag.
I got the polish and buff kit from PinballPro.com
http://pinballpro.net/shop/buffpolish-kit-for-drill/
Quoted from Skybug:Wow that's pretty! Cleaned up nice! What product do you use?
The kit is a new product and PinballPro is also coming out with cleaning and waxing product line. Greg gave me a sample of the cleaning and waxing products to test. I don't know if the products are up on their website yet, but I think they will be soon. I have told Greg that I am very impressed and pleased with how easy it was to use with the buffing/cleaning pads. So far I have cleared off the playfield except for the pops. Wiped it down gently with slightly damp rags to get the bulk of the loose dirt and grit off the surface. (it was full of crud) Then I applied the cleaner and hit it with the cleaning pad on a drill. Then, with the other drill pad, I applied the wax which in this test is a pure carnuba wax. Waited until it dried cloudy and then polished it down with a microfiber cloth.
I really like the product and I hope it is available soon for everyone!
The cleaner seems to have removed most of the dirt in the cracks.
ME would take care of the rest.
Did you get any paint lift?
--Jeff
Quoted from HighNoon:Glad you got the reset bank figured out. FWIW, all of the locking plates on mine have the tab welded on except one. However, looking at the mechanism, it seems like it would work fine whether or not it had the tab. I can post pics if that would help.
--Luke
I don't need pics, thanks! After studying it for a while I was able to decide for myself how it should work. For anyone interested, here's the deal!
The reset bank in this machine is motorized and split into two halves that can operate independent of each other to some extent. Each stack of switches sits on its own Latch Plate Assembly (Bally part #'s A-261-13, A-261-17, or A-261-18 [for On Beam, may be different on other models]....looks like there is a "center" "left" and "right") Each latch plate is pushed up by a lobe/cam on the rotating shaft below it and pulled down by a spring attached to it. When pressed up by the lobe/cam, an Armature Assy (Bally Part #'s A-261-11, A-261-12) will spring into place and lock the latch plate and its stack of switches in the up position. {This is very much like a latch/trip relay where a separate coil will pull a metal plate in to "trip" the relay} Each armature assy has a coil behind it that can pull it in when needed to release the latch plate and "trip" that stack of switches back to the down position or even keep it from latching in the up position at all.
The motorized shaft has a spring clutch assy (Bally Part # A-3379-1) on the front of each of the two sections. This spring clutch assy, when left alone locks the motor to the shaft and forces the shaft to turn. It is in line with the first stack of switches in each of the two sections. The Armature Assy at this "first" position is different from the rest of the armature assys in that it has a metal tab welded to it that sticks out and can catch on a finger sticking out of the spring clutch assy. When the armature assy is out and holding the latch plate assy up, it is also engaging the finger on the spring clutch which releases that entire section from the motor drive. This spring clutch assembly also acts as the lobe/cam for the first stack of switches in each of the two sections.
In my case, apparently some previous repairman only had the armature assy with the tab on it when he got to the job. He used them in place of the assy without the tab. This is just fine, (but confusing for someone who doesn't know the system) as only the first position has the spring clutch that is actuated by that tab. The first position armature assy on mine had been broken at some point in time and welded rather than being replaced. When I got it and figured it out, I noticed the tab was broken off. I had already ordered a few of the plain armatures but did not have the one with the tab on it. Horray for the previous repair with the "wrong" parts. I just swapped some plates around and she fired right up! Now I will go through the switches on that entire reset unit and clean and adjust them and this On Beam should be fully functional!!!!
Quoted from way2wyrd:The cleaner seems to have removed most of the dirt in the cracks.
ME would take care of the rest.
Did you get any paint lift?
--Jeff
The cleaner did a great job and I got no paint lift using it with the rotating pads. I did not go as far as using ME (Magic Eraser). There is still dirt in the cracks, but I am nervous and not ready to try it yet. I waxed it for now maybe someday to take the wax off and try a Magic Eraser pad. She looks pretty good right now. If I fall in love with this machine and it becomes a keeper, then I will go back after the cracks.
Quoted from Pafasa:There is still dirt in the cracks, but I am nervous and not ready to try it yet.
On the ME:
Just rub lightly and little paint will be removed, but do not rub in one spot long just a once over is good enough.
Looks like you need some bumper skirts soon?
White bumper skirts are on the way but if I can find skirts to match the colors below them, I'll change them again. I still have to remove and clean the outhole/add-a-ball unit. This game looks to be really fun! Can't wait to really play it! Here's a pic before and after cleaning.
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