...the left flipper. When I press the left button nothing happens except it blows the 24 volt 10 amp fuse in the PSU. I read that "This fuse will blow if the associated bridge rectifier shorts, or if there is a locked-on coil from a shorted driver transistor." I don't think the problem is the bridge rectifier because the other flipper works correctly. What does it mean to have a "Locked-on coil" how do I test for that? and how do I locate and test the driver transistor to see if it is shorted?

This is my second pin and my first post.

Thanks.

While examining and testing the flipper mechanisms I noticed an inconsistency in the way they are wired. On the non-working flipper the second wire from the end of stroke switch is connected to the same terminal as the three gray wires and the striped end of the diode. On the working flipper the second wire from the EOS switch is connected with the striped wires to the other end of the diode. So my question is; Is this a legitimate left/right difference or something that needs to be corrected?

I think I may have exaggerated a bit when I said everything works except one flipper. There are a few burnt out bulbs, and the tilt ball is missing. I also found one wire related to the tilt mechanism disconnected at one if the connectors. The volume control rheostat crackles when adjusted and there is a very noticeable hum coming from the speaker. On the plus side the battery on the MPU is intact so I will cut that off ASAP. I paid $250 and the seller delivered it to my house. Cosmetically, the back glass is perfect but the playfield is definitely not and the cabinet is kinda scuffed up. DSC03793.jpg

First let me admit that I am not sure how I should set the Digital Multi Meter to check the ohms. There are several options (2M, 200K, 20K, 2K, 200 and a diode setting) I set it at 200 because all the higher settings seemed to yield zero. The result on the good (right) side was 1.5 both ways. On the bad (left) side 0.2 both ways. In all cases it took a few seconds to settle down to the reading I reported.

The Fuses I am using are Buss AGC 10 amp 250volt.

I pulled the coil from the left flipper. I cut one end of the diode. Using the diode setting on the DMM the diode reads .000 in both directions. With the diode disconnected using the 200 setting on the DMM to test resistance on the coil it reads 23.3 across the outside lugs. Center lug to the lug with the fine wire reads 22.1. Center lug to the lug with the thicker wire reads 1.3. I'm not sure what that tells me. The one thing that seems odd to me is that there is any conductivity across the outside lugs. Each outside lug is for a separate winding, right? Is it normal to see conductivity between the outside lugs with the diode disconnected?

What do I need to know to order diodes? Specifications, recommended sellers?

I ordered the diodes, some bulbs and a new ball from The Pinball Resource. It seems like a very unusual business model to me. They don't take orders on their web site I had to call them on the phone, and they are sending me the parts before I pay for them.

I replaced the diode and rewired it to match the right side flipper and it works!

Is there a reason why I should not use spade connectors and/or wire nuts when working on this (or any other) pinball machine?