That Spy Hunter fuse may be a Fast Blo.

EDIT: Just checked the manual, and the 3/4 amp fuse in Spy Hunter is a FB--so that would have blown right away in this game. Better order some FB's too!

The problem trying to get fuses locally, is they only carry the higher amp'd ones.

Do you think the fuse clips could be flaky? Or maybe a cold solder joint on one of them?

If the fuse is not passing current, then you should be able to measure a voltage drop across it with the game on(measuring 0V means its working, measuring X volts means its not).

For this test, you'd need to set your DMM to read DC Volts. If you power the game up with the fuse removed, you should measure a voltage (I don't know what it will be, but more than 0 Volts) across the fuse clips.

On a fuse that is in place and working correctly, you would measure 0 Volts across it (the fuse creates a short--or 0 Volts, allowing current to flow thru it).

You could try this on another fuse that you know is working, just to see how it works.

Be really careful not to touch the leads to anything else, so you don't cause any other problems.

Well, now that you are comfortable taking voltage readings -- you can test the voltages to your display.

http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Data_East/Sega#Testing_DMD_HV_Power

Sorry, I know this is more than you wanted to get into on a new-to-you machine, but I can't think of any other place to continue at this point. Again, be super careful and steady-handed if you try this. As long as you don't short two pins together with the probes you'll be fine.