Twister
Sega, 1996Quoted from Rando:Thanks FF,
That's what I figured, but often what I assume is not the case so double checking here before I order again.
Thanks!
By the way, greatplainselectronics.com and bigdaddy-enterprises.com are a bit cheaper if you need to order any other electronics components. Marco's prices tend to have a slight markup.
Alright all,
Here's a recap and the latest:
- Purchased a working Twister, game working fine on pickup
- Transported to my house and setup, GI and lights and sounds work, game is playable, but DMD appears dead
- Reseated all ribbon cables and plugs
- Fuse in display board tested dead
- Ordered new fuses, replaced with 3/4 A slo-blo 250V that tested fine outside of machine
- No change, game is still playable, DMD still appears dead
- Tested fuse ingame and doesn't appear to pass current
- Test fuse out of game and seems fine
So sad and open to suggestions for what to check next. :(Picture of display board below with/without flash for your review:
IMG_0087.JPG
IMG_0088.JPG
Quoted from Rando:Tested fuse ingame and doesn't appear to pass current
Do you think the fuse clips could be flaky? Or maybe a cold solder joint on one of them?
If the fuse is not passing current, then you should be able to measure a voltage drop across it with the game on(measuring 0V means its working, measuring X volts means its not).
Quoted from KenH:If the fuse is not passing current, then you should be able to measure a voltage drop across it with the game on(measuring 0V means its working, measuring X volts means its not).
Not 100% clear on what you're asking,
But if I remove the fuse, power on game, and hold the multimeter sticks to each of the fuse clips while in the Ohm position, multimeter display is "OF" and no numbers appear.
That will damage the meter...Ohm is for resistance or continuity, He's saying above when the game is on, you can measure the voltage drop.
For this test, you'd need to set your DMM to read DC Volts. If you power the game up with the fuse removed, you should measure a voltage (I don't know what it will be, but more than 0 Volts) across the fuse clips.
On a fuse that is in place and working correctly, you would measure 0 Volts across it (the fuse creates a short--or 0 Volts, allowing current to flow thru it).
You could try this on another fuse that you know is working, just to see how it works.
Be really careful not to touch the leads to anything else, so you don't cause any other problems.
Setting multimeter to V for Volts...
- Removed display board fuse: 0
- Display board Fuse clips with power on but no fuse: In the 100's
- Display board Fuse clips with power on and fuse: 0.3ish
- Other installed working fuse with power on: 0
Well, now that you are comfortable taking voltage readings -- you can test the voltages to your display.
http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Data_East/Sega#Testing_DMD_HV_Power
Sorry, I know this is more than you wanted to get into on a new-to-you machine, but I can't think of any other place to continue at this point. Again, be super careful and steady-handed if you try this. As long as you don't short two pins together with the probes you'll be fine.
Issue resolved!
Once we got into the more advanced electrical which stated "put your left hand in your pocket to help avoid getting electrocuted" I bailed out and contacted a local tech. He identified the problem as the Display Power Supply board. It looked like the board had been repaired in the past and shook loose in transport. But he was only able to have limited success re-repairing the issue (couldn't get the voltage up to the level needed to power the DMD), and instead located a new replacement board for me online. Board was received today, I installed without issue, and happy to report that issue resolved!
Pictures of old board, new board, and working DMD display posted below.
Thanks for all your help, this one got beyond me but happy that it was fixable without too much digging.
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Lutz, FL