Twister
Sega, 1996Hey all,
Picked up a Twister today, my first DMD machine! When testing machine worked fine. During transport I did something to knock out the DMD. I'm not familiar with the machine, not sure what I should be checking. All other sights and sounds seem fine, DMD just seems to be disconnected.
Please help!
10/26/15 Update - Just updating topic title to show resolved.
Just check all the connectors going to the DMD board .
Make sure to do all that with the game off.
Might have its own fuse too.
When you first power on the game, does it display a "splash screen" on the DMD or does the DMD not light up at all?
If you see the splash screen, then it's a problem of communication from the MPU to the DMD controller.
If you don't see a splash screen, some possibilities are...
1. The three pin power connector to the DMD controller might have come off. Red, Black, and open position on the connector.
2. One of the three necessary power components to the DMD might have failed.
3. The short ribbon from the DMD controller to the plasma display itself might have become disconnected on one end.
Check the easy things first.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EM.com
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info
Thanks all,
No splash screen, nothing on the DMD at all. Checked all the connections I can reach, getting nothing from the screen. The move wasn't too rough, though we did have to get it down stairs using a handtruck, but didn't have any major bounces or bumps.
Other than that the game looks, sounds, plays great.
Sooooo annoyed. 
Check the ribbon cable going to the back of the dmd, then follow it to where it is connected, unplug on both ends, and reseat, make sure the cables go back in the way they came out. If that does nothing, start checking for blow fuses, best if you have a multimeter, visual checks can really fool you.
Quoted from Rando:Thanks all,
No splash screen, nothing on the DMD at all. Checked all the connections I can reach, getting nothing from the screen. The move wasn't too rough, though we did have to get it down stairs using a handtruck, but didn't have any major bounces or bumps.
Other than that the game looks, sounds, plays great.
Sooooo annoyed.
Have you checked your fuses? It looks like there is one fuse on the power supply board in the backbox (F1) that would directly affect the display. Also, possibly one of the logic fuses (F8 or F9) might also affect the display, but I'm not familiar with Sega games.
Sometimes if fuses get jostled a bit (especially if it's an old fuse with a lot of hours and/or stress on it), the filament may break.
If you need access to a manual, it's available on the IPDB page.
Sorry to see this as I had no issues with the DMD at all. Definitely sounds like something came loose or a possible fuse like others have mentioned. When I bought it the other month I had to bring it up a hill on a hand truck and moved it a good bit and everything worked fine at my house. Hopefully you can get it fixed up soon so your wife can enjoy her new pin! Thanks for a great transaction.
The dot power supply fuse could definitely be the issue.
Pull it and buzz it with yoiur DMM. Don't rely on visual inspection.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EM.com
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info
Set your multimeter to continuity, put one probe on one side of the fuse, the other probe on the other. If it buzzes, fuse is good.
Pretty obvious isn't it? Moving causes issues. Ribbon cables in these 20+ year old machines are DODGY!
Reseat the ribbon cables - don't bother looking for blown fuses - that's just silly.
Sorry but no. It could be so many things, fuses are so easy to check. However, a little better response would be to meter for power at the DMD. Moving could have cause any number of issue. 0V at DMD then check fuses. But fuses are a very acceptable place to start when something is dead.
Far from silly.
Quoted from Pinball_4_me:Pretty obvious isn't it? Moving causes issues. Ribbon cables in these 20+ year old machines are DODGY!
Reseat the ribbon cables - don't bother looking for blown fuses - that's just silly.
Quoted from Lermods:Set your multimeter to continuity, put one probe on one side of the fuse, the other probe on the other. If it buzzes, fuse is good.
...of course, with the fuse removed from the game...
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EM.com
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info
Quoted from Pinball_4_me:Pretty obvious isn't it? Moving causes issues. Ribbon cables in these 20+ year old machines are DODGY!
Reseat the ribbon cables - don't bother looking for blown fuses - that's just silly.
I'd like to think there is a language barrier here, but your opinion is too clear.
The OP can follow any guidance he chooses, but nothing is EVER wrong with buzzing fuses. Especially since the game has been jostled around a bit.
He has all the info needed. What he might lack at this point is experience, or someone to guide him through.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EM.com
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info
Quoted from ChrisHibler:He has all the info needed. What he might lack at this point is experience, or someone to guide him through.
That last sentence is pretty accurate.
I've reseated every cable connection I could touch, that part makes sense to me. Fuses and electrical current (I have a small multi meter but don't really know how to use it) are foreign to me. I don't think mine buzzes, but it does show numbers. There are 3 settings, I usually leave it on V, and all I do is put the red to one end of the fuse and the black to the other, right?
Regarding the fuse for the Display Power Board Supply( F1) it says the following is needed:
3/4A 250V Slo-Blo 90V
Does that mean a 3 or 4 Amp 250 volt fuse, or is that a 3/4 Amp?
With Radio Shack closed down, are there any local shops that sell these types of fuses, or is the Internet my only option?
Appreciate all the help, I've done some basic EM work, this is my most modern machine and am worried I did some significant damage during move.
It means 3/4 Amp.
Use the ohms, also referred to as continuity (the horseshoe symbol on the meter) and use both leads across the fuse. It should measure less than 0.5 ohms to be good.
Rando...what model of meter do you have? Post a link to where you can buy it (like Amazon) so we can see the face of the meter and give you some help using it.
PBManiac (above) listed the method.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EM.com
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info
Let's level set the information.
When you power up the game...
...do the GI lamps turn on (general illumination)
...do the feature lamps begin attract mode?
...do any coils, flashers, or motors activate?
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EM.com
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info
Good point Chris. I do not see any featured lamps on.
Possibly his fuse mounted under the power supply blew out by the 2 bridge rectifiers.
Quoted from PinballManiac40:GI lamps definitely look like they are on.
Yup...I can see that now that I look back.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EM.com
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info
Definitely is good to have a checklist to go through and report all the things that are not working. Helps narrow down the problem faster.
OP mentions the sound is working, but can't tell if he is able to start a game.
Appreciate the hand holding all.
GI is fine, all playfield lights fine, sound good, game is completely playable. DMD just blank.
Meter is a cheap radio shack version. In the Ohm setting the default is OF. Looks like fuse isn't moving any power? Setting remains at OF when touching both sides. When I check other fuses numbers move a bit, usually resting at .1 or .2
Note that I'm doing this with the fuse still installed. Pic of meter below, pic of me attempting to get reading below.
Excellent.
Now...pull that fuse, and test it just like you did while it was installed.
Report back.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EM.com
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info
BTW...what reading do you get in ohms when you simply touch the black and red leads together?
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EM.com
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info
Quoted from ChrisHibler:BTW...what reading do you get in ohms when you simply touch the black and red leads together?
I get a reading, tough to pinpoint... moves from .2 to 1.5 to higher, any movement causes the numbers to change...
After removing fuse and testing shows same OF. Please don't tell me that's a bad thing?
Found fuses listed at HD and heading out for an errand so plan to grab some. Which of these listed (if any) is correct replacement?
http://www.homedepot.com/s/3%252F4%2520fuse?NCNI-5
Crown Bolt 3/4-Amp Slo-Blo GMA Fuse
3/4-Amp Slo-Blo GMA Fuse
Model # 74198
$1.97 / bag
See More in Composite Fasteners
If that fuse is blown, it is a GOOD thing, should hopefully just pop in the new one and be good to go!
Quoted from balboarules:If that fuse is blown, it is a GOOD thing, should hopefully just pop in the new one and be good to go!
10-4 on that. Go for it.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EM.com
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info
Thanks for all the help, couldn't find the right fuse in stock at Home Depot or Lowes, so I'll have to place an online order. Will order all potential fuses so I'll have on hand.
In the meantime, is there anything that I can do/test to confirm that this IS the issue? Or do I just have to wait until I get the new fuse and install it, before knowing if that will fix or not?
Quoted from Rando:Thanks for all the help, couldn't find the right fuse in stock at Home Depot or Lowes, so I'll have to place an online order. Will order all potential fuses so I'll have on hand.
Maybe try a radioshack, if they're still open in your area?
Quoted from Rando:In the meantime, is there anything that I can do/test to confirm that this IS the issue? Or do I just have to wait until I get the new fuse and install it, before knowing if that will fix or not?
Nope, you can't really check anything else until you have power doing to the display.
Since this is your first DMD pin, you can take the DMD to a buddies house to rule that out. Not worth the effort IMO, but you could.
Quoted from Rando:In the meantime, is there anything that I can do/test to confirm that this IS the issue?
You really just have to wait, unless as mentioned there is a Radio Shack still open around you.. Just make sure when you get the fuse it is a SLO BLO, not a fast blow.
I have never looked, but maybe an auto parts store, or even possibly Wal Mart.. they have an auto dept.
Can you sub a fuse from another machine? or even the one you'e working on. Most of all Data East/ Sega weird issues are almost always fuses, at least in my experience. My Hook and LAH had a mind of their own....they would do crazy shit that had me looking for a false issues for hours and then it would turn out to be a fuse...Hook and LAH are my nemesis. I wish I could find out how much time has been wasted chasing ghosts on DE games because someone wanted to save .25 cents on fuse holders.
According to his collection he has all EM titles except for Spy Hunter, Just went to IPDB and there is a 3/4 amp fuse in Spy Hunter, F2 on the Bally power module.. all the other Sega ones are 3a and up. So he does in fact have one in Spy Hunter he could use to test Twister.
S
Give Clay $20 for access to the pinball ninja site. Best $ you still ever spend and won't have to ask questions like this and wait for the peanut gallery.
Quoted from balboarules:According to his collection he has all EM titles except for Spy Hunter, Just went to IPDB and there is a 3/4 amp fuse in Spy Hunter, F2 on the Bally power module.. all the other Sega ones are 3a and up. So he does in fact have one in Spy Hunter he could use to test Twister.
S
Just swapped in the Fuse from the F2 slot on the Spy Hunter and Twister/DMD had no reaction. I also checked the Ohms when powered on and still received OF reading.
Will still order a bunch of fuses and be hopeful? 
Sorry I have not read every post here but did you check F1 on the small display board too? If not check it by taking it out. Also please take out every fuse and meter them..this is something you should do when you buy a DE/Sega game anyway.
Can you post a picture of the power supply? Hopefully we will see if anything burned. Sounds like the fuse you took out of another game also blew out.
That Spy Hunter fuse may be a Fast Blo.
EDIT: Just checked the manual, and the 3/4 amp fuse in Spy Hunter is a FB--so that would have blown right away in this game. Better order some FB's too!
The problem trying to get fuses locally, is they only carry the higher amp'd ones.
Quoted from balboarules:Crown Bolt 3/4-Amp Slo-Blo GMA Fuse
3/4-Amp Slo-Blo GMA Fuse
Model # 74198
$1.97 / bag
See More in Composite Fasteners
Bah,
Fuses arrived, ordered the 3/4 as well as other spares, all wrong physical size. These are 20mm and looks like I need 32mm. On the Marco site now and placing new order, will return rest.
Back to waiting! 
New question:
In the backbox there is a sticker listing all the needed fuses, so I'm trying to order spares. Some look similar to me, but not sure if different. Example:
5A 250v Slo-Blo 20v DC Low Power Coils
5A 250v Slo-Blo 12v DC Logic Power
5A 250v Slo-Blo 6.3v A G.I. Lamp insert left
Are these each different fuses, or the same "FUSE - SLOW BLOW 5 amp 250 V (6.3x32mm)" as listed on the Marco site?
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/MDL-5
Quoted from Rando:New question:
In the backbox there is a sticker listing all the needed fuses, so I'm trying to order spares. Some look similar to me, but not sure if different. Example:
5A 250v Slo-Blo 20v DC Low Power Coils
5A 250v Slo-Blo 12v DC Logic Power
5A 250v Slo-Blo 6.3v A G.I. Lamp insert left
Are these each different fuses, or the same "FUSE - SLOW BLOW 5 amp 250 V (6.3x32mm)" as listed on the Marco site?
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/MDL-5
Yes I know, silly n00b question.
IMG_0078.JPG
Same fuse. The chart actually contains three pieces of information--the fuse that is required, the voltage that runs through the line, and what is powered by the line.
For example "5A 250v Slo-Blo" is the fuse requred, "20v DC" is the voltage running through the line, and "Low Power Coils" is what is powered on the line.
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