I'm working on a 1967 Chicago Coin "Bullseye Baseball" pitch & bat.

I do have an HP 4670 scanner -- I'm assuming the glass thickness means that a scan would be somewhat out of focus. Is it enough to mean that scanning is not a good way to get the art to reproduce the glass?

I don't think there is a Cruse scanner in my neck of the woods. I have a 24MP camera with a variety of lenses. I assume I can get an in-focus photo of the artwork this way. What are the considerations for working off a photo? I'm mostly thinking about any kind of distoration introduced by the lens, getting a squared up image.

I'm all about lengthy & tedious! I can use my scanner if the results are satisfactory.

The scan of the front glass looks pretty bad focus-wise; I'm going to try to photograph it instead.

AI = Adobe Illustrator (auto-trace functionality).

This would smooth out any "jaggies" from the work in Photoshop.

I usually do all my art redraw in Inkscape since I am creating cutfiles for a vinyl cutter. It will be a different experience to work in bitmapped graphics for me, although I'll probably use Photoshop since I can't wrap my head around GIMP.

I'm getting a local shop to scan the backglass for me. Seems like they have a scanner that can handle it including setting the focus. Cost is about $50US.

Wonder whether something like this would work: https://www.amazon.com/CZUR-Shine-Ultra-Pro-Auto-Flatten/dp/B09M2L1V4W

Got my scan back and started working with Photoshop. Still lots to go through. Going well so far, work in progress:

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Looking at the metadata for the image, it was actually taken with a Nikon D850 full frame camera. Looks like if you have a jazzy enough camera and the experience you can photograph it.

Pretty much done with the front. I left the crowd basically untouched. Still not sure if I need to bucket fill the baseball players with "pure white".

I'm going to work on the masking layer on the back next.

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Original:

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Masking layer in progress. I'm redrawing against the scan of the back for those areas where the image only exists in the mask. For the front graphics that are lit, I'll try to use the front graphic as the basis for it.

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Back layer is done, here is what it looks like by adjusting the opacity of the colour layer so you can see where it will light up:

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Getting it printed now, hopefully the colours turn out okay.

CMYK can’t hit some of those screen printed colours.

The photo was 320 DPI and taken with a 45MP camera.

I used a cheap Wacom Intuos tablet for most of the work.

Looks great, need to buy a piece of glass. Won't ever get 100% colour fidelity with CMYK versus screen printing but I think it looks pretty good.

There is a protective cover on the front adhesive so I think the colours are even a bit better than they look on the front.

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Application instruction video:

I used regular glass. Given how I've (sadly) seen photos of broken backglasses I don't think they are tempered.

I fixed that in the copy I sent you….yeah that was dumb

Get in touch with Coos — https://www.coos.net/bingo_e/Backglasses.html

Trying to scrape the black off the area where I had mis-masked it. It seems like it'll work, extremely slow job using an xacto blade and gently removing it. I think it'll be fine from the player's view.

I'm not the first, eh?

I'll try a hairdryer, I'd probably roast it with a heat gun.