This thread is 7 years old, but I came across it when trying to look into an issue I was having and it just so happens to be the same Flintstones machine. So I figured I'd give an update on it just to close the loop on it for anyone else that may follow the same path as me.
First, a bit of background on the issue I was having in the first place. The machine was in a tourney and a player reported a phantom slam tilt. When I went to test the Coin Door Slam Tilt switch, activating it triggered every switch in Row 4 (but not the Slam Tilt switch itself, I realized later). Further testing of other playfield switches revealed the Lower Left DINO (54) activated the "K" Drop Target Opto (44) and the Upper Left DINO (26) activated the Ball Popper Opto (36). This latter issue was mentioned earlier in this thread.
Because Optos were involved, I thought there might be an Opto Board issue. Nope. Because the Slam Tilt switches go through the Coin Door Board, I thought there might be an issue there. Nope. As it turns out, the Slam Tilt Switch activating Row 4 and the two DINO Targets activating other switches were completely separate issues and I really should have figured that out sooner and when I did things got a whole lot simpler.
The Slam Tilt was triggering Row 4 because the Switch row wire (that is supposed to go from one lug of the physical switch to J5-13 on the Coin Door Board) was just daisy chained to the Coin Door Ground Wire (that goes to J5-3 and provides ground for all the coin door dedicated switches). So closing the Slam Tilt Switch was allowing a path to ground for the row of ANY other activated switches in Column 2, like Row 4's Switch 24 (Always Closed). I don't need the Slam Tilt to be functional, so I just removed the ground wire from the Slam Tilt leaf switch. If I wanted to fix it properly, I'd run a new wire from the switch to the IDC connector at the J5-13 spot.
The DINO Targets/Phantom Optos issue were, it turns out, a relatively routine "somethings up with the diode-situation on those switches" issue. I was able to identify the "Phantom Switch Rectangle" where closing a switch with a bad diode will activate an un-triggered switch IF a switch in the same row and the same column as the bad diode are also closed. So it turns out that hitting the Lower Dino Target (54) AND 1 of the two Bottom 3-Bank Targets (51) at the same time (plus Switch 24 which is Always Closed) created the "Phantom Switch Rectangle" with the Slam Tilt as my phantom switch. I lazily assumed the diodes were bad and replaced them, but it didn't fix my issue so I actually looked more closely at the problem switches and realized the were wired wrong, bypassing their sweet, sweet row-isolating diodes. Basically, the row wire was attached to 1 switch blade and the column wire was attached to the other switch blade with the banded side of the diode attached to the common lug. I changed it so the column wire was on 1 switch blade, the row wire and non-banded diode leg onto the common (non-switch blade) lug and then the banded diode leg onto the other switch blade. As I understand it, this allows current to properly flow from the row wiring through the diode to the strobed column (which goes low when strobed causing any closed switches in that column to allow their corresponding row to go from high to low as well, indicating a switch closure).
For more information on the switch matrix theory and troubleshooting, I suggested checking this link out: https://homepinballrepair.com/pinball-switch-lamp-matrix-troubleshooting/
Melville, SK
Banning, CA
