(Topic ID: 141379)

Phantom of the Opera high end restoration

By jboner1058

8 years ago


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  • 1,156 posts
  • 75 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 11 months ago by arcademan1
  • Topic is favorited by 52 Pinsiders

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#463 7 years ago
Quoted from jboner1058:

clearcoat and lock down that gold first

Just a note, the playfield you are acquiring does not have the same
"gold leaf" as the original playfield it is darker and is made of a weird
green flake type ink. I did a transfer back in 1995 with a playfield
that was from the factory. I guess they realized that the "gold" that they
used is the same "gold" that was used on Gottlieb's Gold Wings pinball and
it's playfield also deteriorated while out on route.

#468 7 years ago
Quoted from jboner1058:

It looks the same as my April 1990 manufactured playfield.

If the playfield is from the same lot, then all the "T" nut holes would have
been drilled and there would be dimpling marks ready for the
manufacturing line.
I believe the playfield you are getting is from a different run.

7 months later
#508 6 years ago
Quoted from Pintucky:

Also, can someone confirm how many balls this pin uses? I have three in it right now.

Data East's Phantom of the Opera uses only 3 balls.
From Laser War to Rocky & Bullwinkle & Friends all were only 3 balls.

#525 6 years ago
Quoted from Pintucky:

Did the coil you added have the diode in the correct way?

The coil for that trough/ball up-kicker that I replaced didn't have a diode on it, and I replaced it with the exact same coil number with no diode.

I know you are really busy but when you get a chance, will you look at your pin and see if there is a diode on your coil?

Thanks,

I do not know what you guys are talking/typing about....
But Data East Phantom of the Opera pinball has diodes on all coils.
Data East is not Williams WPC system.
Has far as the outhole setup is.....
The
1) Outhole coil 23-840 with a 1N4004 diode cathode to the orange wire ( Q46).
2) Outhole Trough Eject coil 23-840 with a 1N4004 diode cathode to the orange wire (Q45).
Schematics pg. 27 and pg. 42.

1 week later
#574 6 years ago
Quoted from Darscot:

Here is a couple of pics

You are missing the standoffs and clear plastics that keep the ball from getting stuck on top of the upper left pop bumper.
: (

#585 6 years ago
Quoted from Pintucky:

I wonder what that 'paint' or substance is they put on there?

POTA is the only pinball were the backglass was silkscreened on the front and back.
Those, out on the route, people would use knives and such to scrape away the mask
to see the real face.

1 week later
#624 6 years ago
Quoted from jboner1058:

New button assemblies

The original flipper button microswitches had a tendency to fail on route locations.
Excellent job on the restoration.

1 month later
#775 6 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Damn that game runs hot.

Note: IDC is maxed out at 2.5 Amps per pin and the Amp ratings go lower the more pins you have at max current.
The GI runs at 20 Amps +or- an Amp; No wonder the connectors fry.

1 week later
#799 6 years ago

Ouch!.

5 months later
#957 5 years ago

I use Mylar and sometimes metal strips that can take the punishment from the ball hits.

#976 5 years ago

That would be cool.

1 month later
#1078 5 years ago
Quoted from jboner1058:

Well, the 5 mill staples brand laminator sucks and leaves microbubbles. Guess I’ll be buying a better one.

Maybe it would be better to have the shields done the old fashion way, use clear PVC and have it cut to the shape of the cards.

3 weeks later
#1087 5 years ago

Beautiful !

3 weeks later
#1103 5 years ago
Quoted from PhantomO:

Can anyone tell me whether the ball deflector under the organ ramp should have any kind of spring on it?

No... just a hinged flap.

1 year later
#1136 4 years ago
Quoted from jboner1058:

And back to Phantom. The right post in front of the magic mirror finally gave out after 30 years of getting hammered[quoted image]

I have a good machinist that "fix" parts like that.
So you can "keep" the OEM look.

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