Manchester, MI
Really excellent work.
(Topic ID: 141379)
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Phantom of the Opera
Data East, 1990
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Quoted from jboner1058:I’m probably gonna go buy a new set of brad point bits to clear it out as well. There are a couple of the really small holes that are completely covered over and I’m not taking any risks
FWIW, I strongly recommend going with a hand-operated drill for this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000JRDLVY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage
I found drilling the clear to be stress free with the correct bits and this device, I'll never go back.
I did not drip glue on my first playfield I did this on, though I have the Kruzman kit and plan to do so on my next one.
Quoted from jboner1058:Ordered that hand drill. I have to widen some of the holes for the metal guides that go down the sewer for multiball and add a few extra that were missed. They weren’t dimpled on the nos playfield but were on the original.
What's nice about that drill is you have less danger of going through the other side. I tape my drill bit to be sure I don't go to far. For clear, I find a forward, back, forward cranking really does a nice job without putting too much stress on the clear.
FYI, to tighten drill bits on it, hold the crank in place with one hand while tightening with the other. It will make sense.
One other thing... Tip from Kruzman... He recommends that you dremmel off the clear where you need to drill with a diamond-dusted bit vs. drilling straight in. Then drill, then drip glue. I think the idea is that you want to avoid "pulling" the clear up off the playfield.
I say all this, and when I did it last time, I used the hand drill very gently and it worked great. Next time, it really depends on whether or not I actually need to drill into the wood or not, or I'm just removing clear. I think if I'm just removing clear over an existing hole, I'll probably drill with the hand drill and glue. If I actually have to drill THROUGH the clear and into solid wood, I'll use the Kruzman method. Make sense?
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