Phantom of the Opera
Data East, 1990You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider MustangPaul.
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I just took the pitted rust off my LAH lock bar receiver, used a stiff wire wheel on my bench grinder and it took it all off but was left with clean pitting. Sanding wouldn't level them out so I primed and sanded a few times to fill the pits and then painted metallic silver and it turned out nice. But of course the paint will scratch off if I'm not careful.
Quoted from jboner1058:Here are the before shots where I have issues. I figure I'll start prepping the cabinet since I'm waiting on parts and my scanner for the playfield. I def need to bondo the corners, especially the front. It has a big chunk out of the bottom. Then I'll mix some paint and go back over the black, and the really jacked up reds and golds. This side isn't even the bad side.
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Oh man that's some bad planking there. 
Quoted from jboner1058:It seems like just about everything on this pin is bad. I'm in too deep now to not totally redo it. It may not be museum quality, and it may take forever (single dad doesn't leave a lot of freetime to work on it every day), but with any luck it will be one of the better ones out there once I'm done with it all
Sounds good, take your time.
Quoted from Darscot:Where do you guys buy Mylar, I just got my Mirror door fixed and a new sticker on it, would like to put something over it to protect it? Can you just get it a craft shop?
Office Max or the like has it.
Quoted from Starwriter:I have heard of people just laying paper over the old playfield and poking the holes in the paper and then using the paper to transfer the dimples to the new playfield. I find it hard to believe that that could be precise enough for the various assemblies to line up exactly as they need to be.
If you have registration marks in both that are the same it should be perfect.
The pad is held on to the shaft by a press in pin, so either the pad or shaft broke. If it's the pad you can buy a new one and put it on the shaft yourself but you will have to take the assembly out to put the pad on the shaft. If the shaft broke you'll have to replace the shaft and the pad.
Quoted from Curbfeeler:I've replaced all my dataeast speakers in this manner...
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/robocop-50-60-sound-mod-begins-a-little-help
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/last-action-hero-club-come-on-in?tu=curbfeeler#post-2863380
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/data-east-star-wars-clubmembers-fans-welcome?tu=curbfeeler#post-2347878
Dataeast pins have nice amps and sound great with better speakers.
Hey Dan you never got back to me about me buying those spacers. PM me if you still make them, my SW is waiting.
Quoted from jboner1058:I could probably do some more sanding on it. Not liking it. Still looks dirty, but at least it's smooth again
How are you sanding it? With sandpaper wrapped around a dowl?
Quoted from jboner1058:And the pin might have to wait a little. Clipped a trash truck
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Oh man that's totaled. I hope everyone is OK. 
An airbag "burn"? Never heard of that one but glad your ok, that picture was nasty. Nice new cab there. Is that a teleprompter I spy on the left side of the cab? Well actually I know it is cuz I had my own video production company for 20 years. Not a big operation but I sure had a great time.
Quoted from jboner1058:What REALLY sucks is the elmers gold acrylic paint markers are a super close match. But they smell of chemicals like spray paint so I know they aren't water based and would probably react with clear. Kind of like my acrylic enamel I tried on the mirror numbers
Have you tested clearing a piece of painter wood?
Quoted from jboner1058:No not yet. And since cans of clear are $23 a can, I'm a little hesitant
I see. Your just gonna have to bight the bullet and try it then you'll know for sure.
Quoted from jboner1058:Due to unforseen circumstances (my basement failed inspection) I will be selling this phantom as a parts machine already disassembled. Some of the nos and restored parts include a complete set of nos decals except the chandelier ramp one. NOS main ramp. Blasted and Powder coated wire ramps, blasted and powder coated side rails, and water slide decals made for the partially restored playfield damage. The back glass is pretty much perfect. Also included is new coils, new upkick assemblies, and new sleeves among many other new parts.
Oh man so sorry to hear this. 
How much of the basement has to be redone?
Quoted from jboner1058:I just can't bring my self to get rid of it. This WILL get done eventually
Did you look into that NOS pf that was mentioned in the Sell or trade your PF thread?
Quoted from jboner1058:Yes. Which is why I am back in the game
Great. I know it was spendy but it was well worth it. Now see if that guy makes a clear plastic overlay for your pf, you have to take GREAT care of that pf, it may be the only NOS left in existence.
Quoted from jboner1058:I will be doing high res scans the moment it arrives before I do anything and will post them and all of the decal files I've already made for anyone who needs them
Quoted from jboner1058:And... I'm gonna contact cpr and see if they want the scans. They were complaining they didn't have a good one to make a master from which is why we have all been stuck. Everyone here deserves a new phantom field
Quoted from jboner1058:Seller told me there is some warping on that nos playfield that he couldn't see until he took it off the wall. Still though
You might want to have it sent directly to CPR then. See what they have to say.
That's gonna look great when your done. That BH looks very nice too.
Quoted from jboner1058:I might be crazy but every part except for a handful of switches, a couple boards, and the transformer will be new or nos. I could have bought a stern pro for what I’ve got into this over the last 2 years
Sure you could but your game will be better.
Quoted from jboner1058:Now to let it gas out for a couple weeks
That's smart and after you sand it let it sit for a few days for it to dry before you spray it again. I learned the hard way.
Quoted from jboner1058:I think its a low dollar pin because almost every example is destroyed, and sound and artwork is what sells it. The game has just as much playability as any other system 11 game. Which all system 11 games tend to be 3 shot games. Bride of pinbot is the worst for shot variations, yet its getting 3k asking now. I obviously am not doing this to make money off it. It was my favorite game as a kid alongside Funhouse and Haunted House so I am trying to make sure I have one that plays and looks as close to new as possible. How many people sell restored stuff that looks nice but mechanically is still using 30 year old parts? A lot. Mind you I'm double over what the pinside value is on this machine, but I can say I have one that is as close to my original experience with one at the pizza parlor down town in 6th grade as possible.
For the love of the game.
Quoted from jboner1058:First attempt. Some scratches from the jig and cut opposite grain. Will make a few more and pick the best one.
Looks fine to me.
Quoted from jboner1058:Ordered motor off eBay for $10 less than others were listing it. Also had to order a new organ shield because mine was broken and I didn’t notice. The left hinge was also welded back together. Marco is sold out of left hinges so I’ll try to clean up the weld and blue it to blend it in a bit
Your having fun....and your wife knows where to find you. 
Quoted from jboner1058:Coin door is done, and I started making some replacement decals and warning tags
That's some really nice stuff and those coin chutes are gonna look just fine, even add a little color once lit.
Quoted from jboner1058:I’m using a 9smd tower from comet, but I don’t like the fact you can see all the individual LEDs. Would prefer a frosted bulb style. I’ll have to see if there is some kind of frosted led flasher
Use the flat 8 bulbs, no hot spotting because all the light starts at the bottom and washes up the plastic and fills it with a nice glow, try it you'll see All my flashers have those. No such thing as a frosted flasher bulb.
Quoted from jboner1058:Im only worried with the brass if they corrode to the steel screw threads and Ill never get them off.
If you left then on for 100 years that might happen but I wouldn't worry about it and besides your only going to be only lightly tightning them down. Me thinks you worry to much. 
Quoted from jboner1058:The ones that were there cleaned up really well in the ultrasonic, but were a little off white.
and probably a little brittle with age.
Quoted from jboner1058:But the problem with phantom is most of the mirror blade area is covered.
Yeah just leave it black then.
Quoted from jboner1058:Hand washed all the lamp boards tonight. Will put the final coat of semigloss black oil based rustoleum professional on the cab tomorrow with an ultra fine foam roller.
Just a little overdue for cleaning. So they are copper clad?
Quoted from jboner1058:Final coats of black satin oil paint. 10 days to cure, then decals
Good idea to wait that long.
Where did you finally find them at? I like those, please don't put this chrome stickers on them they are beautiful as is.
Quoted from jboner1058:Note to self. Don’t paint near the dehumidifier when it kicks on
Don't tell me you have to paint it again.
I hope you wait to assemble the pf until the clear has cured nice and hard, you start screwing star posts and metal post down into uncured clear and your gonna have big problems. Ya gotta do what ya gotta do so that bb back decal is nice and smooth. Regraining isn't so bad, I used a wire wheel in my drill on my guides for Jackbot and they turned out really nice, completly eliminated the ball trails pretty fast.
Good call. I'd rent a van for taking it to the show, shove it all the way to the front of the van with some nice thick couch cushions or something on 3 sides. Ya never know when your going to brake hard and with it all the way forward it won't slam against the forward wall. I wonder if those vans have some kind of anchor points in the floor. 
Quoted from MikeO:Problem solved.
How long does that last?
Quoted from jboner1058:Was looking through all of my split wire loom plastic molding today and found some blood red. I know it’s a part no one ever sees, but still
Details details. 
From the one picture it looks to be plated. Try a course wire wheel on the others. Put double flex head in the buttons, twice the light. I put them in all my inserts too especially big ones.
Quoted from jboner1058:Damn. Now I want a brass shooter housing
I was just gonna suggest that too and how about all the ball guides and wireforms too. It's only money but man would that look sharp. How about a small clear red plastic ball for a shooter knob?
Sorry to see the scratch, but it's probably gonna happen quite often being paint.
Quoted from jboner1058:Dammit. Scratched it
That shaft housing on the shooter rod housing looks broke on the top.
Quoted from Colsond3:It does, but I've seen some open on the top like that before.
Really, that's a new one on me.
Quoted from jboner1058:Bay Area amusements. You have to take the bracket off though. Also finished the speaker panel
That panel looks better then new. Was the original black? Maybe you could make some kind of light cover painted white inside to contain all the light in that light up center section. That would even out the light and brighten it quite a bit I would think.
Quoted from jboner1058:Thanks. I’m trying my best. It’s funny I managed to get two other machines fixed up in the time I’ve spent just looking for parts for this one
But it's sooooo worth the time.
Quoted from jboner1058:It’s a way more tasteful “mod” than half the junk people shove into other games
I like it too.
Those traces are pretty messed up and may cost more to repair then a new one. I'd bite the bullet and get a new one, probably save you a whole bunch of pain down the road.
Quoted from jboner1058:I’m a huge fan of Gulf pinball. His boards are pretty much like the originals. His black hole power board was so good (and well priced) I am buying nothing but his from now on. Already bought his new power supply for phantom and his playfield driver board is on my wish list for it if this one is toast
Hmmm never heard of them, looks top notch.
Quoted from jboner1058:This side got air bubbles like crazy that simply pulrnt work themselves out. So I had to pin pop them. This was also the worst condition side of the cab and I just couldn’t get it 100% smooth since the planking was horrible. Using scratch x to polish the Mylar covering looks Amazon. Wish I would have done it to the cab before I installed everything.
Sorry to hear that.
Quoted from jboner1058:I need some nylon washers and screws for the sound board (not sure if the ledocd takes out the lamp matrix buzz but better safe than sorry). Found out the hard way that the new bridges are “slightly” shorter than the old ones and I have a new hole in the back of the head :/
I hope your gonna clean that metal bb.
Yeah those punched standoffs are a pain, you really can't do a super nice job on those panels, yours looks nice and clean. Maybe you could tape off the standoffs and use some high temp clear to protect the metal. The standoffs ground the boards right?
Yeah I'd say Williams on the right also. How about a white one and put different color jells in it to change it up once in a while?
Quoted from Lonzo:yes, and I have the high score.
Quoted from vec-tor:Note: IDC is maxed out at 2.5 Amps per pin and the Amp ratings go lower the more pins you have at max current.
The GI runs at 20 Amps +or- an Amp; No wonder the connectors fry.
Really. So do you think a fan would help?
Quoted from jboner1058:3 different pop bumper cap orders using the same item number and I still don’t have originals I need the ones on the left but I keep getting the ones on the right because they are the “stern recommended replacement” and the only person I’ve seen with them in stock is in Brazil and doesn’t ship to the US
That one Pinsider is in Brazil maybe he could buy them for you then ship them here.
Quoted from jboner1058:And the tumbler burnt up :/
Oh crap your kidding, was it one of those Harbor Freight ones?
Quoted from jboner1058:No, it was a better brand. Had it running for about 10 hours today and came home to burnt up motor in the basement
Well that sucks, hope it didn't smell up the basement to much.
Wow no kidding replacing it, that's above and beyond. That much use at a stretch should have made no difference. How much is that big one?
Quoted from jboner1058:Well at least with three I’ll always have a backup lol. I might actually use all 3 of them. One for the course polish which doesn’t take as long and 2 for the fine. If I run them at the same time I can get this metal polished even faster since I’m only doing like 5 parts at a time by mech or playfield part rather than dumping them all in at once. I’m sure if I just took pictures of what metal goes with which bag of parts I could do it in one shot, but knowing me I’d either lose or mix up the parts
Yup.
2 led clear dome for the inserts and 2 led frosted domes for the bg. I didn't know you could adjust the brightness of the bb with ocd.
Yeah that does look nice. How about a frosted white 7 (you can cut it to make it as long as you like) led strip running down her leg on the left picture?
Quoted from jboner1058:Well there is only one right now and I’ve got $2400 into it
ouch.
Quoted from jboner1058:Yeah. I’m obviously insane
You got the bug BAD. But it's such a fine madness isn't it.
Quoted from jboner1058:Someone’s been on a cross country trip multiple times and has finally made its way back home. Now to figure out when the hell im gonna find time to get back on this project. Usually I get a week off for spring break but they are asking me to come in for overtime
Take the OT!!!
Quoted from jboner1058:Ha yeah I’m just gonna use the OT for more Phantom parts lol
Yup. At one of my old jobs back in the 80's and 90's I rotated 2 weeks each shift and there was ALWAYS OT available every weekend so a few times I worked 9 weeks straight without a day off while rotating all 3 shifts. I was taking home $1200 a week. So during those 9 weeks I was taking home $10,800. Being single I was having a blast with that money.
Quoted from lordloss:Thats about 2800 a week in 2018 dollars
WOW really?
Quoted from jboner1058:Bought new ramp flap material to start again. It took me like 4 attempts to get this last one perfect. Also, just noticed that my nos playfield that was drilled and dimpled didn’t have the drilled out holes for the two wire guides that go below the flippers. Are they even neccesary? Most modern games don’t even have them anymore
I'd leave them off, they were just used to prevent bounce back shots.
Man that's lookin sharp. I hope you didn't get the tower leds, the regular 8 led ones look better because they light the dome from the bottom up so you get a nice evenly lit dome. The side firing towers create hot spots inside the domes.
Quoted from jboner1058:I tried the comet 8 straight up ones but they sit so tall that only the top of the dome gets lit
Did ya try dropping the socket a bit?
Quoted from jboner1058:It’s those black twist on the lamp board sockets. Maybe if I put spacers and a longer screw it might dip them down a bit
Give it a try.
Quoted from jboner1058:I had bought all new gi sockets, but they are 5/8, not 1/2 and stick Out too far above the playfield so rather than drop another $40 on sockets (again) I’m gonna see how well the old ones clean up. I mean, I’m not replacing the backbox lamp board sockets since they all work, so these should stay too
Man that's a bummer, they won't exchange them?
Quoted from jboner1058:I think I’ve got at least $500 in shipping alone at this point for all the missed orders.
Everyone complains about shipping, that's why I don't charge in the lower 48 for it with my mods....well except for part of it for a Canadian order but full price for overseas.
Quoted from jboner1058:Buffed out the scratches. But it will eventually get played and they will be back lol.
Damn that art is beautiful, one of the few pf's that's fully painted.
Quoted from jboner1058:I’m very impressed by the LED OCD and I haven’t even programmed it yet
I have them on 4 games and just left them on the stock setting.
That last picture is what I do on most of my games but use polished stainless steel because it's just black wood there. Mirror blades would look great but make sure you get the thin ones. I think I got mine from Cointaker.
Yeah that's a pain but an easy fix, or go to the hardware store and buy all new T nuts. But it's always nice to have a tap and die set.
Quoted from jboner1058:Is it wrong that I kind of want to replace the pop bumper caps with a design for Led flickering candles I’ve been working on?
Hmmmm I'd have to see what they look like.
Quoted from jboner1058:I wish I had a nicer apron. This one has a dark square on the right side from someone removing the venders decal prior to me getting it and some of the gold ink came with it
It would be impossible to find one in better condition then yours I'll bet.
Man what a PIA, at least you know what you doing replacing those parts, I wouldn't even be able to begin to start what you've done already.
Quoted from jboner1058:Marvel Artist Greg Horn was given a challenge by Marvel to Reinvent Iron Man. Not disappointed. This one is going up in the game room.
Is that an original?
Quoted from jboner1058:It was a print at Greg Horn’s booth at Wizard World Philly.
WOW damn good print.
Quoted from jboner1058:Used a translucent gold foil so you can make out the masks better
Quoted from jboner1058:There is still one more part that needs to get changed. The lift channel. But I’m terrified it’s gonna wreck the backglass artwork
How about some kind of liquid and let it soak?
Quoted from jboner1058:Of course the only metal part I didn’t sand and polish is gouging up my expensive as hell chrome balls. The nos kicker arm for the ball trough had too sharp of an edge so sanded it down and put it in the tumbler tonight.
Ha I knew it. Good to hear you took care of it.
Quoted from jboner1058:Got an offer on it and I’m not even 100% done. Was for a ghostbusters premium in a trade. I like ghostbusters a lot, but I could still buy one of those outright (sadly for less than I have into this machine thanks to another $1500 I’ve put into it the past 2 months)
Don't you dare sell it.
Quoted from cheshirefilms:You may sell to one person. The living Phantom.
MY EYES....MY EYES.
Quoted from jboner1058:Printed the apron cards on pearlescent card stock. I might laminate them at work this week. Haven’t decided yet.
Can you tell the difference? Doesn't come through in pictures.
Quoted from jboner1058:Well, the 5 mill staples brand laminator sucks and leaves microbubbles. Guess I’ll be buying a better one.
Yeah that's bad.
Quoted from jboner1058:Lockbar just came back from getting re-powdered. I’m trying to figure out the best way to hit the white edges of the cabinet decals. I should have taken care of it long before i put the machine back together. I’m thinking either an acrylic paint pen or masking everything off and airbrushing the edges.
I use enamel, acrylic isn't tough enough and if you wax the cabinet like I do the wax will take the acrylic off.
Quoted from jboner1058:Sounds good man! I will say this, the game is a dust magnet and the playfield shows everything. I’ve cleaned it at least three times in the last 2 months.
Sounds like you could use a room air purifier.
Quoted from jboner1058:So now that the game is done, its time to move on to the real fun. Making the topper. After toying around with a couple of designs ive drawn up, ive got it narrowed down to two that I like. One will be a set of 19th century French carriage lanterns with large LED flame bulbs that will require tying into the AC power in the cab right before the transformer. The other would be a smaller candelabra with LED flicker bulbs with the phantoms mask in front of them.
That's gonna be interesting to see.
Quoted from jboner1058:This is the airball king game and no real dimples on the hardwood. But I am getting a couple of dimple ghosts on the inserts where the air balls have landed. And they hit hard. The balls spend more time in the air than the playfield half the time lol.
So Ron does nice work. Great to hear.
Quoted from jboner1058:Yeah it has held up really well. The inserts were funky on my old playfield too and again the balls catch air like crazy on this game because of the high polish (plus super polished balls). No different than any modern stern with insert ghosting but no playfield dimples at all. This area was just high impact in general that got damaged, and the sharp angle of the cuts of the hole is unforgiving
Well there goes the theory of a steel ball on wood, a god clear coat will do wonders at reducing dimples.
Quoted from jboner1058:[quoted image]
Looks perfect. Now let's see it on the game.
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Saint Paul, MN
