(Topic ID: 141379)

Phantom of the Opera high end restoration

By jboner1058

8 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 1,156 posts
  • 75 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 11 months ago by arcademan1
  • Topic is favorited by 52 Pinsiders

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#369 8 years ago
Quoted from calico1997:

After about 50 plays, the Organ mechanism is now stuck...the door won't close. It just struggles to close over and over. I'm sure I'm not the first owner to get this problem...can someone advise on corrective action? I'm not much of a motor-mechanism guy. Do I need to buy a new motor for it? Youtube video demo of the problem and pics enclosed... Help!

Suggest you start your own thread on this issue.

1 year later
#680 6 years ago
Quoted from jboner1058:

I am NOT looking forward to regraining the ball guides at all.

Problem solved.

scotch-brite combi-s (resized).jpgscotch-brite combi-s (resized).jpg

#685 6 years ago
Quoted from jboner1058:

That will work. Do you know what grit to use?

I purchased this exact model. It provides a brushed finish. The biggest issue is running it straight along what you are regraining. Would be best to chuck it in a fixed position and then have a guide to push the part along the wheel. But you get better at it with time. I would say the pictured unit is ever so slightly coarser than the original finish. It will provide a finer finish as it ages. It looks to be a 120 grit. So if you want more sheen/shine look for a finer grit.

Quoted from MustangPaul:

How long does that last?

Lasts a long time. I ended up getting an older smaller unit from my Dad that had been around for some time. My concern was that it would ultimately wear out and this is closest to it that I found for back up.

I use it on stainless ball guides, lock bars, and EM side rails. Makes what can be very time consuming and inconsistent in results to no time at all and very consistent results.

3 weeks later
#761 6 years ago
Quoted from jboner1058:

While the target size was the same, the switch lugs were not (I needed them to be on the left of the switch so the organ can open) so I took apart the switch stack and Frankensteined it with the old one. Took me forever to get just this one finished

Been there, done that. Now it's both new and correct.

#769 6 years ago

So what is your procedure for applying the new IDC connectors? Is there a tool for this?

Otherwise, as I understand it, the factory had excess wire that they used to pull the wire into the connector and that excess wire was then cut off after the connection was made. That wire is not there today so it has me wondering.

5 months later
#948 5 years ago
Quoted from jboner1058:

Spent 10 hours on it today. Doesn’t look like much but when you completely disassemble it takes for freaking ever to put it all back together especially the soldering. BTW I am glad I went back and checked my pics because the data east with diode coils I bought are not on the same lug positive side as the originals. Easier to switch the wiring sides than it is to desolder the diodes on these things. Should have just soldered in my own. Thank goodness for the manual. I’ve got an extra original display with new capacitor and reheated solder joints if anyone is interested. My old board was good, my digit flicker is not in the board or the cables, was hoping just changing those out would keep me from changing out the cooked cap and resistor arrays. That’s “probably” what’s causing the issue

Is that 6821 chip in your picture above fractured?

#966 5 years ago

Coming down the home stretch and looks great.

1 week later
#1010 5 years ago
Quoted from jboner1058:

I wish I had a nicer apron. This one has a dark square on the right side from someone removing the venders decal prior to me getting it and some of the gold ink came with it

Are you sure it pulled paint and is not residue from the adhesive left over? If leftover adhesive, depending on its nature, I've used alcohol, naptha, Novus 2, or WD40 to get stickers/adhesive removed. Of those four the Novus 2 has abrasive in it. You might try on a part of the black to see if any adhesive comes up.

I've never touched a DE instruction card holder so not sure if any of the above materials will help. On Gottlieb EM holders, where the screened art is the most delicate of any manufacturer I have ever treated, only the Novus 2 removed art. It was unaffected by the alcohol, naptha or WD40.

Buyer beware, YMMV, and "The enemy of good is better".

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