(Topic ID: 141379)

Phantom of the Opera high end restoration

By jboner1058

8 years ago


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  • Latest reply 11 months ago by arcademan1
  • Topic is favorited by 52 Pinsiders

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#1143 4 years ago

May not be the best place for the question, but since many of you have torn down and redone your POTO’s, someone should know here. My magic mirror sticks when it goes back because of the friction on the rubbers from the posts behind it. Is there a different, thinner rubber that goes on those posts to prevent the snagging?

Also if anyone has an extra magic mirror decal and a magic mirror plastic (only the front one), I would be interested.

I guess one more question while I’m at it... I read through most of the 23 pages on this post but didn’t see a general consensus on the best paints to use for the gold and black areas. I’m not super artistic, but want to touch up a few areas since you guys inspired me and provided excellent reference art!

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#1145 4 years ago
Quoted from Darscot:

Most people figure eight the rubber to make room, just lift it off the back post and give it a half twist. You can also pinch the little metal tab on the top of left post of the mirror so mirror will be more straight up and down.

I’ll try the figure 8, thanks!

I guess while we are at it, what is the left VUK area supposed to look like? This was a project machine that I am really just getting into now, even though I have had the machine for quite a few years now.

It looks like the operator just screwed into the PF and used whatever rubber they had...
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#1149 4 years ago
Quoted from jboner1058:

Liquitex antique gold was the closest color match I found but it reacted with the 2pac clearcoat. Badly

Thanks JB,

I’m not looking to clear coat. This is going to be a player machine, unless shelter in place orders go 12+ months . I will probably just touch up and Mylar this one.

Can anyone confirm that the organ does not utilize a spring? When I first got mine it had a spring between the notch on the lift arm and motor attachment stubout behind the lock pin. From everything I have seen it shouldn’t have been there. I also was having trouble getting it to close fully, leading to not being able to get to the drop targets on top.

I believe the lift arm was on upside down as it had the elongated opening on the motor side Below the play field and the small opening on the top of the organ attached at the screw and lock washer on the right side. When I flipped that around it worked without the spring, however it still wasn’t closing all the way.

Today I removed the black ball catch and side brackets from under the organ and reassembled it. The organ opened and closed fully without issue, however it could not catch a ball without the back diverter and every time a drop target shot was made, the organ tipped backwards quite a bit and opened up. So much so that the targets didn’t register sometimes.

What am I missing? The motor itself and the switches work fine, there is something physical/mechanical interfering... perhaps there is a wrong part in there since it seems to be the MO of whoever routed it years ago.

I also had an NOS ball catch that I tried today and no luck, although it was attached to the same side brackets, so if they are the problem then I wouldn’t know, but they look correct compared to pictures online.

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