Bridgeton, NJ
Ok I kind of see what's left of the middle reaper at the bottom and will go off of that
(Topic ID: 141379)
Linked Games
Phantom of the Opera
Data East, 1990
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well you should have sent me another. May have went ot junk or your email cut it off because it was to big. Send me again.
Quoted from Darscot:I just bought a copy of the manual, I could scan the pages, but the fold out schematics wont fit in my scanner.
Hey, that would be great! Sorry, I've been tied up. My wife wrecked our car 2 days ago and now I'm crying..Got to pay for that. I would love a manual copy when you get the time. [email protected]
I'm having problems with Trough 2 switch. It does not work when activated. Multimeter is not reading any flow through it. The game is down now and says Ball Missing. UGH! I got a friend coming over FRIDAY to see it! UGH! Anyone know what that switch is called? Microswitch? Not sure what to order.
OK. found it in the online manual fragment listed on IPDB. Says Trough #2 switch is a 180-5009-00. Got it! I think switches that will fit that are at Radio Shack..for emergencies!
Quoted from jboner1058:But those pics would be great.
OK, will do later on this afternoon.
no proper POTO switch replacement at Radio Shack. Ordered 2 correct ones from Marcos Pinball today ($3.99) along with new flipper bushings (mine are weak) and a VUK spring ($3!!!!). Have a new badass soldering iron coming to fix several wires that have fallen off their spots. Got me a good one to last forever. This machine will be great soon. I found about 4 pins on the numeric display that are broken off.. I think that may be why my display has commas and lines everywhere. I might solder a piece of jump wire across to connect them. I wonder if that would work? THey really bashed this Phantom to crap at the arcade. It was destroyed, but looking nice now with my hand paint job and LED makeover.
Cloverdale, BC
I hope that's your camera that makes it so washed out. Looks like the inserts are fogged? was there a clearcoat put on this back in the day? Never seen so much fogging in this era of DE. I bet this was a test sample to tryout some clearcoat. Most NOS fields out there, are either tests, or defected ones in some way, and why they didnt' use them. Or in some cases, they stopped production of the game after the fields were all made.
The artwork is not washed out. Turns out it was the camera making it look that way. As for the inserts, without light shining through them, they don't look like the vivid colors that yours have. Some of that appears to be from the sanding scratches from when they ran the playfield through the belt sander after they installed the inserts, before they did the artwork and clearcoated it. When light is shown through them, the color is very nice. Here are a couple more pics with a different camera that show the colors better.phantom3.jpgphantom4.jpg
Quoted from jboner1058:Wow. I just realized your nos playfield doesn't even have the pilot holes in it.
Yeah. I know. I have several NOS playfields that aren't dimpled. I have envisioned building a giant pantograph to transfer the dimples. I don't know if I can build it with enough precision to be accurate. I think if you used ball bearings for the pivots, it might work. I have heard of people just laying paper over the old playfield and poking the holes in the paper and then using the paper to transfer the dimples to the new playfield. I find it hard to believe that that could be precise enough for the various assemblies to line up exactly as they need to be.
Quoted from Starwriter:I have heard of people just laying paper over the old playfield and poking the holes in the paper and then using the paper to transfer the dimples to the new playfield. I find it hard to believe that that could be precise enough for the various assemblies to line up exactly as they need to be.
If you have registration marks in both that are the same it should be perfect.
Quoted from jboner1058:I seriously would drop an easy $1000 or more on that
I would pay $1500!!!! We need this to get to Stew so he can scan it
Quoted from Starwriter:Let's see if this helps you out. If you need any other pics, let me know.
Wish I could have looked at these when I was handpainting my POTO. The one I used for reference on IPDB is different from yours..I believe. The ball drain area is different..so mine is painted different than your spare PF.
I got my switches, flipper bushings, spare diodes, and new VUK spring (needed badly to play game at all) from Marcos overnight. They are about 60 miles from me so I get most packages overnight with regular standard shipping. I also received my new Soldering Iron ordered from Amazon with killer reviews. Going to do my first soldering job ever today and install my Trough #2 switch on POTO. Wish me good karma. ha. I want this game working today! I only have one machine working for goodness' sake!!! My Eight Ball Deluxe is a 6 month overhaul job not ready till 2016!
I did my best with my flat iron and heat gun to flatten out the phantom insert. His face browned a little, but I know I'm gonna lose it all anyways when I pull the Mylar and will have a decal ready for it. It's 98% flat or below playfield level, with one tiny bubble still above that I will level out by sanding, and will fill in the rest and level with coat on top, and clear epoxy underneath to strengthen it
Quoted from jboner1058:I did my best with my flat iron and heat gun to flatten out the phantom insert. His face browned a little, but I know I'm gonna lose it all anyways when I pull the Mylar and will have a decal ready for it. It's 98% flat or below playfield level, with one tiny bubble still above that I will level out by sanding, and will fill in the rest and level with coat on top, and clear epoxy underneath to strengthen it
Please document all of that in pictures. I need to know what you are trying/doing. My phantom face is destroyed from below and is severely bubbled, burned, and knotty. Post any pics/tips etc you can!
i soldered on the new Trough #2 switch and the game started right up! What a relief! Added a new mini spring in the second VUK that feeds from Organ into the red wire track. working now for the first time. Now on to my terribly weak flippers..replacing the plastic bushings tomorrow..hope it works without an all new kit or coils.
I've got to figure out a way to transfer the ramp decals. I don't have a decal printer, and it's like $100 to have them printed from scans.
Quoted from jboner1058:I've got to figure out a way to transfer the ramp decals. I don't have a decal printer, and it's like $100 to have them printed from scans.
I am interested in your solution 
I'd love to buy the decal printer that prints white and gold. Heck printing white on transparent decal paper would be awesome. But the cheapest one I found was $500. Hell, with the cost of all this repro stuff it may pay for itself. For now I'll stick with the laser printer. I'm thinking of maybe "gently" removing the glue from these and finding some way of sticking them back on and maybe clear coating over them.
Quoted from jboner1058:I've got to figure out a way to transfer the ramp decals. I don't have a decal printer, and it's like $100 to have them printed from scans.
Yeow! And there's a bunch of them. As much money, love, and time as you have in that pin, I would just bite the bullet and have them reprinted. Have you tried Kinko's?
I just noticed that there's no ramp flaps on that ramp. Do you have a rivet press? I'm about to look into buying one. Would sure be nice. They can't be that expensive, right?
I wouldn't use pop rivets. You don't have any control over how much clamping force you're exerting. I would be afraid of cracking the plastic.
arn't the decals printed on plastic? for the bally ones, I just cleaned off all the glue and cleaned them up, sprayed 3M spray adhesive on them and restuck them on.
Quoted from jboner1058:I have a pop rivet gun, but not a rivet press. I know I need to use the blind rivets with the press
I have this and it works great http://www.arbortime.mountainminded.net/html/the_better_tonka_rivet_tool_-_.html. It's no longer for sale though.
With some encouragement, Vid might be able to pull out some magic yet again and come up with a $40 alternative that does not require buying a press and set of dies.
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