Bridgeton, NJ
No doubt Ron and several others who have helped me along on this project are gold in my book.
(Topic ID: 141379)
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Phantom of the Opera
Data East, 1990
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Turned up the audio a bit tonight on the new premium speaker system and man do i have some scary backglass rattle. I’ll have to maybe line the back box channel with felt
One of the best investments I made in pinball was I bought a couple of polk audio 10 in powered subs. Polk makes high end stuff and it is over kill but I found I didnt have to replace the stock system when I used this. I soldiered some monster cable to the existing speaker tabs in the bottom. Someone posted a couple years back a link to them on amazon for like 115 shipped. I have the pinball pro system when I had wpc games like Indy jones and I wonder how this sub would fair on that original stock system. That Game has such great sound, it was a crime to leave it stock. My point is I would recommend it, and I would like to hear opinions of it used on games like PotO that have great stereo sound. I have only used it on new sterns.
I’ve been tuning for the past week. I’ve got 3 major issues (which may be inherent to the machine from phantom forums I’ve seen). And of course it’s all related to the organ and multiball. When the ball hits the post left of the spinner right of the organ I get massive air balls (short rubber post at bottom, 2 inch rubber connected to the other posts up top). Second the guard in the organ hole keeps reflecting the ball back most shots instead of dumping it down the hole. I might have to put some felt or very very thin black foam on it to dull the impact. Finally if I get two balls into the organ at once or to close together, the three ball multi doesn’t activate. It’s fine if there is about 2 seconds between the balls going in, but many times I get two in at once.
All new trim and lift channel. Added felt to the backglass channel in the head to cut down the vibration from the new speakers
4FD3D410-5348-43D6-8452-2CB9D4E7C652 (resized).jpeg91005C28-77DC-44C0-90C9-3D064230EE40 (resized).jpeg98A1A450-84B6-4D73-B333-3D66B294D4B1 (resized).jpegCEBC0877-D3AB-45BB-84F1-13B6BFC163E0 (resized).jpegSince I replaced all of the Flashers with LED I’m getting flickering in many of them whenever the 5 switch based solonoids fire (the slingshots and the three pops). This is similar to many system 11b/c games. While there is a solution for the system 11 (remove the diodes for the flashers from the ppb and place them on the coils or make a new harness that does something like that similar) I’m going to have to carefully study the diagrams of the data east board and see if a similar solution can be achieved. I’d love to see if a replacement modern ppb solves the problem or not
Got an offer on it and I’m not even 100% done. Was for a ghostbusters premium in a trade. I like ghostbusters a lot, but I could still buy one of those outright (sadly for less than I have into this machine thanks to another $1500 I’ve put into it the past 2 months)
Quoted from jboner1058:Got an offer on it and I’m not even 100% done. Was for a ghostbusters premium in a trade. I like ghostbusters a lot, but I could still buy one of those outright (sadly for less than I have into this machine thanks to another $1500 I’ve put into it the past 2 months)
Don't you dare sell it.
Quoted from MustangPaul:Don't you dare sell it.
You may sell to one person. The living Phantom.
4ab (resized).jpgOh this thing will not be leaving for anything short of a crazy can’t turn it down offer or something of equal rarity and quality
When you put so much in to a restoration, the average person will mock your price if you decided to sell it.
But, the people who have restored a game, and appreciate the little details, like fixing the noise from the translight rattle, he no problem paying the price you need which gives you the opportunity to do another. I have learned this from cars and then bikes, then pins, but I also learned that you will have sellers recourse for the rest of your life.
I have more sellers remorse from pins, and bikes, and cars, than I do remorse for bad deeds.
On the other hand, its just material, and you cant take it with you...
Not trying to hijack your thread with my stupid musings, I was just putting myself in your shoes, and also I was thinking if I had money, I would be happy to buy this machine for an amount that didnt cause you to loose money. But since I dont play the lottery....
I get it. I did a restore on my Phantom. I didn't go to the lengths that you did on this one, but it has come out really nicely. I had a NOS playfield i swapped out. My backglass is a 9 out of 10 with the mask being perfect. Honestly I was just commenting on my game the other day saying to my son that our Phantom is the best Ive ever seen and played (in person). I do know of all the little extras Ive done to my game. Anyways, with all the time Ive put into my game it would take a crazy offer for me to part with mine. Plus, around here in California they don't pop up very often if ever. Every time I look at it I think WOW that game looks brand new! I enjoy following your thread and seeing the progress. Cant wait to see it on all 4's and a video of you playing it. Keep up the good work my friend.
Quoted from cheshirefilms:You may sell to one person. The living Phantom.
MY EYES....MY EYES.
Quoted from jboner1058:Printed the apron cards on pearlescent card stock. I might laminate them at work this week. Haven’t decided yet.
Can you tell the difference? Doesn't come through in pictures.
Quoted from MustangPaul:Can you tell the difference? Doesn't come through in pictures.
Not really. Just a waste of $2 in special card stock when the original bone white card stock looks just about the same. I think I might buy some glossy laser photo card stock and try that out.
I’m gonna try just bone white cardstock and laminate. The pearlescent just looks dull to me. If I used inkjet I’m sure it would look better, but I use laser for longevity and I’m gonna need to laminate to get gloss
Quoted from SilverUnicorn:If you'd be willing to make more instruction cars I would buy a laminated set.
Chris
Let me get these right and that’s no prob. Probably with the card stock and laminate and shipping I would imagine $5 a set
One of my friends can print to aluminum sheets. But I’m not sure that’s where I want to go with these. Maybe for space themes
Chilliwack, BC
Quoted from jboner1058:Well, the 5 mill staples brand laminator sucks and leaves microbubbles. Guess I’ll be buying a better one.
Maybe it would be better to have the shields done the old fashion way, use clear PVC and have it cut to the shape of the cards.
Quoted from jboner1058:Well, the 5 mill staples brand laminator sucks and leaves microbubbles. Guess I’ll be buying a better one.
Yeah that's bad.
I might just mylar the tops of them. Or both Sides. Havent decided since mylar is 2 bucks a sheet and to do both sides would be 4 bucks. cheaper than spending 50 on a new hot laminator
Ive also started prelim design on a topper. I'm thinking I might tap into the phantom mirror lights in the backglass for them but don't want to overdrive the circuit on board because I want to use 6 flicker candle LEDs
Used the cold laminator at work with better results for the coin cards. I have enough of Kruzman’s Mylar left over I might try laminating with that too. I wanted to bring phantom to pintastic New England to meet the artist Paul Faris and maybe get it signed somewhere, but it’s still not ready yet (lockbar is still in the back of the line at the powder coated). That and I’m scared to take it out the house let alone try and set it up by myself without dropping it.
2 weeks later
Lockbar just came back from getting re-powdered. I’m trying to figure out the best way to hit the white edges of the cabinet decals. I should have taken care of it long before i put the machine back together. I’m thinking either an acrylic paint pen or masking everything off and airbrushing the edges.
1B8B84AA-AA7A-46BD-9BD4-94388F7FF85E (resized).jpeg6124C3AA-5811-435E-B45D-C6AFAC11E42D (resized).jpegQuoted from jboner1058:Lockbar just came back from getting re-powdered. I’m trying to figure out the best way to hit the white edges of the cabinet decals. I should have taken care of it long before i put the machine back together. I’m thinking either an acrylic paint pen or masking everything off and airbrushing the edges.
I use enamel, acrylic isn't tough enough and if you wax the cabinet like I do the wax will take the acrylic off.
Quoted from MustangPaul:I use enamel, acrylic isn't tough enough and if you wax the cabinet like I do the wax will take the acrylic off.
Yup enamel paint pen works perfect. I think pinrestore sells them
1 week later
Pretty sweet! Does it feel like a NIB game?
Quoted from Colsond3:Game turned out awesome man! Looks fantastic. Next time I’m down your way I’m swinging by to see how that ball feels rolling on that playfield.
Sounds good man! I will say this, the game is a dust magnet and the playfield shows everything. I’ve cleaned it at least three times in the last 2 months.
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